Brazil: Our 10 Weeks Grand-Tour Part I

We spent 10 weeks on our “Grand Tour” of Brazil exploring some of its many fascinating cities and landscapes. Brazil is so vast, being the fifth largest country in the world, choosing an itinerary was no easy task. Although with just 10 weeks of exploring we could barely scratch the surface,  we did manage to explore some incredible places.
There are thousands of miles of stunning coastline, a huge area that is home to the incredible Brazilian Amazon jungle and the wetlands of Pantanal, the Northeast is home to the protected archipelago of Fernando de Noronha, as well as many of the cultural sites of colonial Brazil and the enthralling rhythms of Brazilian music. The food is also so varied with European, Asian, and African influences. 
I was born in the most Southern State of Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul, although I have lived most of my adult life in England. Since leaving Brazil I have returned home to visit my family many times, but have never had the time to explore it more extensively. So this trip was about exploring places that I have never visited before, seeing family and friends, and most importantly of all showing off my home country to my husband Brian. This post is just part I of our “Grand Tour” with some of the highlights of our 10 weeks visit and a few tips for others who would like to visit some of the places we explored. This is not a sponsored post so any mention of tour companies and hotels in this post is based solely on our direct experience during this trip. 

We were keen to experience the New Year celebrations in Rio de Janeiro so we left the UK on the 27th of December 2021 and returned home on the 11th of March 2022. To meet the Covid-19 regulations for entering Brazil in December 2021 we had to complete a passenger locator form and do a Lateral Flow Antigen test. 

Our 10 weeks “Brazil Grand Tour” itinerary was as follows: Rio de Janeiro (RJ) > Canela (RS) > Foz do Iguacu (PR) > Bonito (MS) > Pantanal (MS) > Manaus and the Amazon Forest (AM) > Fernando de Noronha (PE) > Porto de Galinhas (PE) > Maceio (AL) > Salvador (BA) > Rio de Janeiro (RJ).

Many trips to Brazil will start in the gorgeous city of Rio de Janeiro, often voted one of the most beautiful cities in the world. We have already been to Rio on previous visits to Brazil, but this time our visit was even more special since our son who has been living in Rio for over one year was our host. Our daughter also joined us for a few days, making it a lovely family reunion and our first holiday together for a long time.

Rio de Janeiro – Cidade Maravilhosa/The Wonderful City

The nickname of “wonderful city” or Cidade Maravilhosa was given to Rio by the Brazilian writer Coelho Neto and perfectly describes its natural beauty, surrounded as it is by mountains covered by Mata Atlantica, with some legendary beaches along the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. It has two great landmarks known worldwide and instantly recognizable: Sugarloaf Mountain and the statue of Christ The Redeemer. But this city is a lot more than its famous landmarks and physical beauty, this city tells the history of Brazil when the Portuguese explorers arrived on these shores. It is an incredibly vibrant city and a melting pot of other cultures such as African, European, and Asian. 

 We arrived in Rio at the end of December 2021, staying at our son’s apartment in Ipanema just one block back from the seafront with beautiful views over the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and in the distance the statue of Christ the Redeemer watching over from the Corcovado Mountain. Our plan was to stay for a couple of weeks in Rio before moving on to the South of Brazil. 

There is so much to explore in Rio and luckily for us, this was not our first visit, here are just some of the things we got up to in Rio:

• Hanging out at Ipanema Beach – Immortalized by the Bossa Nova song ” The Girl From Impanema“, this iconic beach was just a short walk from our apartment, so we made the most of the close proximity and came here many times to just enjoy the sun, sea, caipirinhas, and the lively vibe of this magnificent beach. The beach vendors are so funny and just watching them provided hours of entertainment, as well as reasonably priced, delicious food and drinks without the need to move from our seafront beach chairs. Bliss!!

The very upmarket Ipanema neighborhood itself is very charming, it almost feels like a small village with lots of great restaurants, trendy cafes, chic cocktail bars, and posh boutiques providing all the skimpy looking bikinis that Brazil is famous for… in fact, many swimwear trends have started from this very neighborhood. Our son who has been living here for a while was the perfect guide to show us some of his favorite restaurants and hangouts. There are many beautiful beaches in the city of Rio, with the most iconic being Ipanema and Copacabana, but we also loved Leblon and Arpoador. It was easy to walk from one beach to the other along the long wave-patterned mosaic promenade that joins them all. 

 The Arpoador beach is famous for its gorgeous sunset and views over Ipanema. Walking along the long promenade to Copacabana is a great way of exploring this area and enjoying the lively vibe along the seafront. 

Iconic Copacabana is a hub of activity, this long stretch of white sand lies under the famous Sugar Loaf Mountain. The Cariocas (Rio residents) love to toast themselves here and play beach volleyball or football on this world-famous stretch of sand. 

We found a great beach bar to watch the sunset from, listen to live music, drink a caipirinha…or two, and just enjoy the lively vibe. 

• New Year celebrations watching the fireworks in Copacabana Beach – The Cariocas (Rio residents) love to start the year with a bang…the Copacabana fireworks are famous worldwide and it has been on our travel wish list to come to Rio for New Year for a very long time. We walked from Ipanema, along the seafront towards Copacabana just before midnight on New Year’s evening, picking up drinks along the way from the many kiosks that lined the beautiful promenade, to welcome 2022 by watching the fireworks on the iconic Copacabana Beach. The fireworks show is free for all to enjoy. Although because of Covid this year fireworks were not as spectacular as in previous years. 

In spite of the light rain, the night air was warm and the vibe exhilarating. It was one of the most memorable New Year celebrations of our lives.

• Sugarloaf Mountain/Pão de Açúcar – Standing at about 1, 300 feet this iconic mountain towers over the iconic beaches of Ipanema, Copacabana and the Baia of Guanabara. We have visited it a few times before, but can’t come to Rio and not visit this rainforest-covered mountain with some of the most stunning views in the world. Sugarloaf Mountain is located by Praia Vermelha in the Neighborhood of Urca. Most people visiting Sugarloaf Mountain will board a series of two separate cable car journeys, one cable car up to the first mountain (called Morro da Urca) and then a second cable car up to the highest peak. But we decided to do something a bit different this time by taking an easy and very scenic walking trail that goes from Praia Vermelha up to Morro da Urca and from there we caught the second cable car to the top of the Mountain, 395m above Rio. The trail was well signposted and very popular with local joggers. 

The trail was not difficult, but there were some steeper sections, it is a hill climb after all. There is plenty of shade, provided by the Atlantic Forest, and interesting wildlife, such as birds and inquisitive marmoset monkeys (never feed the monkeys). Apparently, these monkeys are not actually native to this area and have been causing all sorts of problems to the indigenous wildlife. It was a clear, sunny day and we enjoyed the incredible views over the city, beaches, and forested hills, including the Corcovado Mountain and the iconic open arms statue of Christ the Redeemer in the distance. It is an impressive 360-degree view of this stunning landscape.  

After exploring we stopped for drinks and snacks at a bar on the top, with some of the most stunning views in the world. 

• Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas – The Cariocas, love walking, running, cycling around this lake and it is not difficult to see why, the views are gorgeous. We enjoyed an afternoon walking some of the  7.2 km walking/cycling paths that encircle the Lagoa with a stop for a drink at one of the many lakeside kiosks and open-air restaurants/cafes available along the path. We even spotted a capybara resting among the vegetation.

• Jardim Botanico – Created in 1808 by Don João VI, King of Portugal these picturesque botanical gardens are full of exotic plants from all over the world as well as endemic species, there are also historic monuments and a research center. It is home to 140 species of birds and even wild monkeys. The path leading to the Avenue of the Royal Palms is absolutely gorgeous and the most photographed part of the gardens. There is also a charming cafe with an outdoor seating area. 

• Bairro Santa Teresa – The hilly Bohemian Santa Teresa neighborhood is really fascinating. It is the home of artists, writers, and musicians who live here and had to rebuild many of the crumbling 19th Century mansions. Note that we visited this area with our son, on the last day of our Brazil trip. It was a lovely way of finishing off our 10 weeks. 

There is a metro line that we could have taken from Ipanema, but we decided to take an Uber to the bottom of the Selarón Steps. We then walked up the 215 steps marveling at this amazing work of art. The Escadaria Selarón is another famous city landmark, nestled between the Lapa and Santa Teresa neighborhoods. Created by the Chilian Jorge Selarón the steps are covered in more than 2,000 bright mosaic tiles, ceramics, and paintings from all over the world. The stairs feature tiles from at least 60 different countries.

From the top of the Seloron Steps, we walked towards the Parque das Ruinas, a public park that includes the ruins of an old mansion offering wonderful views of Rio and Guanabara Bay. The site is also an important cultural center.

We ended our exploration with lunch at the nearby Bonde Boca Restaurant, a very small and charming place serving one of the best feijoadas (typical Brazilian black beans stew) in Rio with amazing views of the city below. We really enjoyed having a nouse around this neighborhood, we felt safe walking around during the day, but I would recommend being aware of your surroundings since it is easy to take a wrong turn and end up in not such a desirable area.

• Paragliding in Rio – There is nothing like getting a bird’s eye view (or in fact feeling like a bird) of this gorgeous city, so Brian and our son Jamie took the plunge and went paragliding in Rio one beautiful sunny day. No previous experience was necessary, since they did it with a guide. They both loved it and said it wasn’t nearly as scary as they expected…. but it was a no thanks from me!

The boys did their Paragliding Tandem Flight from the Pedra Bonita take off in Rio de Janeiro with a company called “Rio Tanden” and they absolutely loved it. The flight instructors called Daniel and Carlos were both very experienced and made sure Brian and Jamie had a very enjoyable, safe experience.  

The Christ the Redeemer statue is another must-visit place for anyone visiting Rio, but since we have visited it on previous visits we did not make it there this time around. 

Travel Tips for Rio:  I would recommend staying at least 4 days in Rio to get a good flavor of this amazing city. Get a local SIM card (since we would be in Brazil for 10 weeks, it was the ideal choice for us). Stay safe in Rio by keeping to the touristic areas, don’t flash the cash or wear any jewelry that could be snatched by a thief on a bicycle, keep your phone and valuables out of sight, and take extra care at night. Just err on the side of caution and apply the same safety measures you would in any large city. I would recommend staying in a hotel/ guesthouse in Zona Sul (Ipanema, Leblon, Copacabana). There is a good subway system, but also taking an Uber is a great, inexpensive, safe way to move around. Visit the main attractions eg. Sugar Loaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer on a weekday, rather than at the weekend when it will be a lot busier, and buy the tickets online. Relax and enjoy this wonderful city. 

From Rio, we flew to Porto Alegre in the very South of Brazil, where my brother and sister-in-law picked us up before driving us up the mountainous region of the Serra Gaucha to my hometown of Canela. 

Canela, RS: Visiting my family

The pretty towns of Canela and Gramado in the State of Rio Grande do Sul (Serra Gaucha) are among some of the most desirable tourist destinations for Brazilians but are not very well known internationally. I was born in Canela and my family home is still there. Our visit was mostly to spend time with my family rather than explore the sights. Brian and I had a lovely week with the family and I am particularly grateful to have had this opportunity to spend some precious moments with my father. Little did I know then that I would not see him in good health again. Sadly my father passed away at the end of our trip. I flew South to be with him, expecting that he would be recovering well from a heart procedure and we would spend another lovely week together, but unfortunately two days after my arrival he took a turn for the worse and passed away. He was a wonderful father, grandfather, and great-grandfather and our family is heartbroken. He will be forever in our hearts and thoughts. 

After a wonderful week with the family, we continued with our tour of Brazil, heading next to the State of Parana (PA) to visit one of the wonders of the natural world. 

The Iguaçu Falls/ Cataratas do Iguaçu – The Brazil Side

Foz do Iguaçu is situated on the border between Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina. We flew from Porto Alegre, RS to the town of Foz do Iguaçu in the State of Parana. From the airport, we caught an Uber to our hotel in the town center since using the Uber app to get around was easy and very cheap, in fact, we used it a lot all over Brazil (typically around 5 US dollars for a 30-minute trip, so we always added a big tip for the drivers). We stayed based at a lovely hotel (Aguas do Iguacu Hotel) in the town center of Foz do Iguacu for 3 days of exploring the Brasil side of the falls, the Itaipu Binacional, Parque das Aves and Marco das 3 Fronteiras.  

• The Brazil side of the Iguaçu falls or Cataratas do Iguaçu – This protected area is located inside the Parque Nacional do Iguaçu in the state of Parana, where the Iguaçu River plunges down a series of tiered cascades that form this natural wonder. This huge system of waterfalls of all sizes and shapes straddles the border between Argentina, Paraguay, and Brazil. The national park is the second oldest in Brazil, created in 1939 to protect this amazing ecosystem of waterfalls (some of the largest waterfalls in the world), forests, and wildlife.  

Regretfully due to Covid-19 regulations (January 2022), it was difficult to cross the border from Brazil into Argentina and hence we only visited the Brazilian side of the falls. 

We bought our ticket to visit the falls online a couple of days before our visit and just presented it at the entrance on the day, before boarding the double-decker bus to the start of the trail/path. There is only one trail path on the Brazil side, called The Trilha das Cataratas/ Waterfall Trail which is about 1.2 km following the shore of the Iguaçu River, and ends at the impressive  Garganta do Diabo or Devil’s Throat. 

A paved walkway allowed us to get very close to this thunderous complex of waterfalls, it is a sight to behold. We had expected it to be impressive…and it didn’t disappoint. 

After visiting the falls and taking far too many photos we went for lunch at the park restaurant (watch out for the aggressive coati here, a type of raccoon, who are experts in stealing your food). We just wanted a small snack meal since we were keen to do the Macuco Safari, an exhilarating boat trip taking us very close to the falls. 

The Macuco Safari tour starts with a 3km walk through the forest or a faster jeep ride (our chosen option) to the second part of the tour where we boarded a zodiac-type boat upriver, for a 4 km ride over flat water and rapids culminating with the exhilarating dip under the waterfall. We got completely soaked, even though we did wear our waterproof ponchos. Luckily we did bring dry clothes to change into afterward, lockers are provided for people to leave their bags and shoes since everything gets absolutely soaked. 

• The Itaipu Binacional – Completed in 1984, the Itaipu Dam is a huge hydroelectric dam, one of the largest in the world, situated on the Paraná River between Brazil and Paraguay. The Itaipu Binacional is equally owned by the Brazilian and Paraguayan governments. 

Although the Dam is only about half an hour from the town of Foz do Iguaçu, we decided to visit this Power Plant on a guided tour bought at our hotel. It is possible to visit it independently using a public bus, Uber, or driving your own car (there is a large parking area on-site). This place is definitely worth a visit and we were really impressed with this incredible feat of engineering.  

• Parque da Aves – Situated just opposite the entrance to the Foz do Iguaçu Park, this place is a sanctuary and a shelter for birds. Surrounded by Atlantic Forest, the large enclosures are home to many threatened bird species. The focus of this sanctuary is conservation, recovery, and reproduction with many of the birds coming from seizures of animal trafficking. There are more than 800 different species of birds, and it is possible to walk through many of the huge aviaries to get very close to the birds. 

We particularly loved the Flamingos, the Macaws, and the incredibly colorful Toucans. Just a couple of hours is enough to explore this place. It can be combined with exploring the Iguaçu Falls Park on the same day since it is located just across the road. I would recommend visiting the Iguaçu Falls National Park in the morning and the Parque das Aves later in the afternoon. 

• Marco da 3 Fronteiras – This 3 borders (Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay) landmark is represented by an obelisk, which here on the Brazil side has Brazilian colors. First opened in 1903, it has been revitalized and the work was completed in 2016. There is an entry fee to get into the Theme Park which comprises a courtyard area set against a Jesuit Mission building. The park has a good infrastructure of a few street food/drinks stalls, a restaurant, a shop selling souvenirs, and toilet facilities.  From this place, one can also see the meeting of the Iguaçu River with the Paraná River, the Argentina side of the river, the Paraguay side, and one of the best sunsets in the region.

It can get quite crowded in the evening when people gather around the Obelisk to watch the dance shows, but we did manage to get a table to watch the sunset and have a meal with drinks. We bought the food and drinks from the small street food stalls. Although we did enjoy spending an evening here, I would not consider this place a must-do/see here in this region, particularly for people who are traveling on a budget since the admission fee is not great value for money. 

Travel Tips for Foz do Iguaçu: There are flights or bus travel to Foz do Iguaçu town from many destinations in Brazil. The main town of Foz do Iguaçu makes it a perfect base from which to explore this area, and we stayed in the town center. Getting around using the Uber app was easy and cheap, there are also good local buses. There are lots of great places to eat in the town. We booked tickets online one day before our visit to Iguaçu Falls to avoid the long queues. The local hotels can organize day tours, but going independent is also possible and easy. Due to Covid restrictions, we only visited the Brazil side of the Iguaçu Falls but is also possible to visit the Argentina side on a day trip. 

After 3 lovely days of exploring we left Foz Do Iguaçu town and caught a flight to Campo Grande, the capital of Mato Grosso do Sul to explore the beautiful town of Bonito and the extraordinary Pantanal Sul. 

Brazil: Bonito and The Patanal of Mato Grosso do Sul (MS)

It is possible to combine a visit to Bonito and Pantanal do Sul when visiting this region of the state of Mato Grosso do Sul (MS). We spent one night at a hotel near the airport in Campo Grande, the capital of MS with the aim of getting our hire car early the following day (hiring a car is good, but not essential). From Campo Grande, we drove on good roads to the small town of Bonito, where we stayed for 6 nights, before driving to our Jungle Lodge Hotel in the Pantanal for our 4-night stay.

Bonito 

The name means “beautiful” in Portuguese and although the small town of Bonito might not be what gives justice to its name, it is the surrounding landscapes and incredible crystalline rivers that will blow your mind. Bonito is an eco-tourism hub known for crystal clear waters and an abundance of fish and lush river vegetation making it perfect for freshwater snorkeling and other water activities. There are many activities in this area including visiting caves, bathing under gorgeous waterfalls surrounded by pristine forests, hiking trails, horse riding, quad-biking, cycling, rappelling, abseiling, cave diving, etc. There are about 38 accredited attractions in Bonito (which have undergone environmental impact studies), and there are also a variety of culinary delights. 

All tours are accompanied by a qualified guide and all of the guides would have taken a technical 2-year program at a federal university to be certified. Visitors are discouraged from wearing any sunscreen or mosquito repellant whilst participating in water activities. Water activities equipment is provided/or can be hired at each location. 

It is a place for nature lovers, very popular with Brazilians, but not so well known in international tourist circles. All the activities have to be booked via a tourism agency and since it is a protected area, visitors numbers are limited at each activity and it is all privately owned. There is a special system of vouchers, which can be booked only via a travel agent, but the good thing is that all prices are fixed and protected by the board of tourism. The prices do change between the high season and low season. 

We booked all our activities with “Big Tour Viagens e Turismo“, an agency based there in the town of Bonito. The tour agent, Fabio was super helpful in answering all our questions and organizing all the tours for us, we would be very happy to recommend this agency to anyone visiting this region. On arrival in town, we met up with him at the agency headquarters to collect our timetable of activities, helpful tips and information, and a map of the area. 

Fabio also organized our stay in the Pantanal, booking the hotel and activities for us. All communication was via WhatsApp (which is used extensively in Brazil, including for communications with businesses)  or email. We stayed for 6 nights at the excellent hotel “Bonito Ecotel” which was also booked via Big Tour.  These are the activities we chose to do in Bonito. 

• Recanto Ecológico Rio da Prata – Snorkeling with lunch –  The Rio da Prata ranch/farm is located about 50 km south of the town of Bonito and therefore having the car meant that we were able to make our way there under our own steam. It was to be our first time trying freshwater snorkeling and we could not have been more impressed. 

On arrival at the ranch, we were briefed by the guide and given a wetsuit, snorkels, and neoprene boots.  The tour starts with a guided walk through the lush forest until we reached the river, where the 3 km snorkeling tour starts from. The experience of floating in an immense aquarium teeming with fish and some of the clearest waters you will ever see was just mind-blowing. The river currents carried us all gently downstream, making it super relaxing, but also exhilarating as we watch the different fish species and aquatic plants along the way. 

This incredibly clear river water comes from subterranean sources through a limestone base which releases calcium carbonate into the water. The calcium carbonate coats and calcifies all the impurities making them sink to the bottom, resulting in such an astonishing water clarity.   

A delicious, hearty lunch was waiting for us upon our return to the main farmhouse and we shared a meal with fellow explorers, Juliana and her boyfriend Felipe who have traveled by motorbike all the way from the very South of Brazil. Meeting other travelers and like-minded people is one of the nicest things about our travels – this intrepid duo had many tales to tell, and we thoroughly enjoyed sharing a meal with them. 

The tour lasted the whole morning and lunch was served at around 1:30 pm, after lunch we drove back to our hotel feeling very tired from the day’s activities and ready for a rest before going out again to grab some dinner in town.  

• Gruta do Lago Azul – Situated about 20 km west of the town of Bonito, this tour comprised of a guided visit to a cave filled with amazing stalactites, stalagmites, and an incredibly underground blue lagoon accessed via some steep steps within the cave. We visited in the morning when the sun was shining inside the cave, making all the colors pop up even more. The tour started with a short walk through the forest, before arriving at the top of the steps that lead to the cave interior. 

The tour lasted about 1:30 hrs and it was very interesting with the guide telling us all about the local fauna and flora as well as all the information about the caves systems found in this region. Unfortunately for Brian, the guide only spoke Portuguese and therefore he missed some of the more complex explanations. After our cave visit, we drove to Parque Ecologico Rio Formoso for our next activity of the day.  

• Parque Ecologico Rio Formoso – All the fun is along the Formoso River, one of the main rivers in Bonito. The river passes through the property and is the stage for the Boia Cross (a large floating tube) guided tour. The river waters are crystal clear and there are abundant fish and lush vegetation making the whole experience not just exhilarating and fun but also very beautiful.  

The Ecological Park is family owned and they still maintain some land that is productive with livestock and farming. There are just under 200 hectares dedicated solely to environmental preservation and/or ecotourism activities. The Parque Ecologico is very tranquil with a lake for other water activities. Lunch was included with the activity. We thoroughly enjoyed spending an afternoon here inside this park. 

• Rio Sucuri – Often described as one of the 3 most crystal clear rivers in the world, it is the postcard of Bonito, and for very good reason. It is just gorgeous! The guided tour started at the main farmhouse, where our guide got us sorted with the snorkeling gear and explained about the day. Once ready we boarded a pickup truck to a forested area near the starting point of our snorkeling activity along the 1800 meters downriver waters. From the starting point, we floated lazily downriver letting the  currents take us along a journey like no other. 

This river is absolutely stunning, certainly the clearest waters we have ever seen in our lives, with an abundance of fish and underwater plants all surrounded by lush forest vegetation and above water wildlife such as toucans, macaws, monkeys, etc. The reason behind such clear water comes from the high limestone concentration which acts as a huge natural filter. It’s a very similar experience to the Rio Prata trip we did a couple of days earlier, so if you are time-limited you could just do one – but if you have the time to do both, so much the better. They definitely both feel like world-class experiences.

After the tour, we were served a delicious lunch back at the farmhouse. 

• Boca da Onça Waterfall (Mouth of the Jaguar Waterfall) –  Located very near the Serra de Bodoquena National Park, the entrance to the farm/ranch is about 59 km from Bonito. Wee drove there from our hotel, taking us about 1 hour to arrive at the farm, which is another Ecotourismlo destination. The Boca da Onça waterfall is famous for its crystal clear waters and its height of 156 meters, making it the highest waterfall in Mato Grosso do Sul. There are various different trails on offer and one of the best abseiling platforms in Brazil. 

We spent most of the day there, doing the adventure trail through the forest, swimming under the many waterfalls, and discovering the amazing Buraco do Macaco (Monkey Hole) where we floated in a crystal clear pool inside the open-roofed cave where it is possible to see the sky and forest through a hole above on the roof of the cave called  “Janela para o Céu” (Window to the Sky). 

 From Buraco do Macaco we continued the trail and finally reached the very relaxing area of Boca da Onça waterfall, where there were even some deck chairs on a wooden platform strategically placed for maximum enjoyment of the lush nature and the soothing sounds of the waterfall. It was absolute bliss!!

Although we have seen other more impressive waterfalls around the world (looking at you Iceland and our recent visit to Iguacu Falls) we really enjoyed it and it was particularly lovely to again jump in the cool water to take a closer inspection of this waterfall. It is called Boca da Onça because it resembles the head of an Onça (Jaguar). Unfortunately because of the recent drought in this region of Brazil, the waterfall was not as impressive and full as it would be normally. 

Talking about drought, although we visited Bonito during the rainy season we experienced very little rain, apart from on this particular day when at the end of our walking trail dark clouds started to gather and sure enough, there was a fast and furious downpour catching us just as we were climbing the steep 886 steps back up to the farm. It was quite an incredible experience. To keep the tour group small, the tours are split with some people starting in the opposite direction and therefore tackling the steps going down rather than up, but we were quite happy that our group went up the steps, much easier on Brian’s dodgy knees. 

Once back in the farm headquarters we were able to have a shower and get dry before heading back to our hotel. This activity was the longest we had in this region, reaching about 6 hours in duration due to all the stops for swimming. We thoroughly enjoyed it and we would recommend this activity to any nature-loving hikers visiting this region (this trail was about 4 km long) although it would not be suitable for people with mobility issues, particularly because of the steep steps at the end of the trail. There are other shorter trails available.  

• Estância Mimosa – About 25 km from Bonito this place is another beautiful farm set in gorgeous countryside. Like all the tours we have done so far here in Bonito this one is also really well organized. We arrived at the farm at around 11 am and enjoyed a delicious meal before the waterfall tour started. We ate our meal in the charming outdoor area and then relaxed in an area with hammocks next to the farmhouse. 

 

After our lunch and hammock nap, our guide came over to collect us and explain all about the tour. We were all given life jackets for the boat tour and swimming in the natural pools since some were quite deep. We also had the opportunity to rent neoprene boots (we had our own water shoes, so we did not need to rent the boots), before setting off on the trail. The trail was through a forested area with some wooden platform paths and suspension bridges.

There was also a short boat ride taking us along the small river surrounded by lush forest with many opportunities for bathing in natural pools and under waterfalls. On our return to the farm, we were served popcorn, fruit, and drinks to finish off the day. 

After all the eating and fun activities we returned to our hotel in the town of Bonito for our last night in this region. We absolutely loved Bonito, the town felt super safe with lovely restaurants and bars, and we particularly loved all the natural resources of the surrounding area which are impressive. We loved that the attractions have a daily limit on the number of visitors and it never felt crowded. The local authorities have taken environmental protection very seriously in this region with strict regulations to minimize the impact of tourism on such pristine landscapes. 

Travel tips for Bonito: There are flights from various Brazilian airports to the small Bonito airport, but the main city with more flight options is Campo Grande. Bonito has a tropical climate, with a rainy season from October to March and a dry season from April to September. We visited at the end of January and got really good weather most days and from what I heard any time is a good time to visit Bonito. I would advise booking a hotel and activities at least two months before traveling, since it can get very busy, particularly during the high season. Contact a travel agency to book all the activities, since it can not be done independently (some hotels have a travel agency attached to them). We booked everything with the local travel agency “Big Tour” and could not have been happier. Having a car can be very good since most of the activities are a few km from the town. We hired our car with the excellent “Foco Aluguel de Carros” in Campo Grande and drove from there to Bonito (4 hours). Make sure to choose the fully comprehensive car insurance package. If not hiring a car it is possible for the tour agency or hotel to organize transport (for a fee), from our calculations the costs would be very similar to hiring a car. I would recommend a hotel in the town center or very near since it is lovely to go for a stroll in the evenings and very convenient for all the restaurants and shops. Enjoy Bonito, we loved it. 

Soon after a delicious breakfast we checked out of our hotel, the excellent Bonito Ecotel in Bonito the next day and headed for the Southern Pantanal. The three-hour drive was mostly on good tarmac roads until we arrived at the start of the unmade road Estrada do Parque, which is the main road through Pantanal South. 

Southern Pantanal 

The Pantanal is a vast alluvial plain, formed during the wet season when the accumulated rain from the highlands burst the banks of the Paraguay River. The river water flows down the low-lying Pantanal and transforms this whole region into the world’s largest flooded grassland. As much as 80 percent of the Pantanal floodplains are submerged during the rainy season, between December and March.

The largest area of the Pantanal is located mostly within the Brazillian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, although it also extends into the state of Mato Grosso (in the North), Bolivia, and Paraguay. This region of open marshes and flooded areas is sparsely populated and there are no towns or cities. Distances are huge and road infrastructure is not great, most people get around in small airplanes and motorboats. 

We were worried about visiting the Pantanal during the rainy season, particularly because we had a rented car that did not have four-wheel drive. Fortunately, our Pantanal lodge was at the very start of the “Estrada Parque” a road that cuts across some of the wetlands in the South Pantanal. In the Pantanal North, the famous “Transpantaneira” runs deep into the region, although the two roads do not join up, since for most of the year some of this region is underwater. 

We stayed 4 nights at the Pantanal Jungle Lodge and we could not have been happier with our lodgings. The riverside location was perfect for all the activities such as canoeing, piranha fishing, night-boat safaris, and wildlife spotting. We had a private room with air-conditioning and a shower room. All meals and activities were included in our tour hotel package. The hotel manager Lobão (means big wolf in Portuguese) was lovely and greeted us soon after our arrival giving us a really warm welcome. We were soon introduced to our guide Rodrigo, who spoke a good level of English and spent a lot of time with us throughout our stay at the lodge and took us on all the activities. 

There were daily activities and safaris, always accompanied by Rodrigo, who was an excellent guide, and spoke good English. The goal for many who visit this region is to spot the elusive jaguar, but for us just being there among such an extraordinary landscape and spotting some of its amazing wildlife was already a mind-blowing experience. 

The Lodge was situated on the shores of the Miranda River. We were surprised at how much wildlife we spotted right there from the large hotel veranda. One afternoon we even spotted an Anaconda (the largest snake in the world – not a venomed snake, it kills its prey by constriction or in other words by wrapping itself around its prey until it stops breathing). It was quite a sight to see, this giant snake slithering into a large burrow on the hotel grounds. 

There are hundreds of bird species found across these wetlands, including the Tuiuiú, also called Jaburu a huge Stork which is the symbol of the Pantanal. During our few days of staying at the lodge, we manage to spot so many species of birds that we have never even heard about before. 

The Miranda River is teeming with Caimans, piranhas, many different species of freshwater fish, and giant otters. Above the water level, the land is populated by exotic fauna and flora. 

It was also easy to spot the cute capybaras sunbathing on the shores of the river and wild monkeys hanging from the trees. One early morning we got woken up by Howler Monkeys making an unearthly noise somewhere in the forest behind the lodge. 

We particularly loved the evening river safari (called Night Focus), with a wonderful sunset and fascinating wildlife spotting. There was just our little boat on the river at that time, the water was so still and dark and we could hear all the exuberant sounds of the forest. We spotted a lot of Cayman along the shore of the river, enjoying the last warmth of the fading sun, as night fell we would just see their eyes at the water level, lurking and waiting for their prey. 

At the end of the evening safari, I was glad to return safely to the lodge, since as soon as the night fell total darkness enveloped us all on that very small boat. There was only the guide’s flashlight shining up and down the riverbanks searching for the elusive jaguar and often highlighting the shiny eyes of a Cayman.  I started getting a bit scared of the many what-if scenarios… What if the boat capsizes? What if we get lost on the river? What if we are eaten by the piranhas? We were also starting to get hungry and very much looking forward to our evening meal back at the lodge. 

Back at the lodge, we were served the piranhas that we caught earlier on at our fishing activity on the shores of the Miranda River. There is not a lot of meat on a piranha, but the bones are quite soft and we enjoyed the taste. Piranha fishing was great fun and we caught quite a few for our dinner later as well as catching some for the hungry Tuiuiú hanging out not far from us full of expectations of an easy meal.

A few Cayman were also keeping an eye on us and approaching quietly under the cover of the dark brown river water. We did throw them some of the fish we caught but made sure we kept to a good distance. 

We also did an early morning safari, hoping to spot the elusive jaguar but unfortunately, there were no jaguars hanging out in any of the areas where they have been seen before, although we did not go home disappointed since we did manage to get quite close to other interesting wildlife including the incredible Giant Otters.

There was also a Jeep Safari, traveling along the Estrada Parque, the unmade road that cuts through some parts of the Pantanal South. Again we spotted a lot of wildlife with the guide pointing out to us some of the more hidden animals and birds. It was good fun, although it was a very bumpy ride. Towards the end of the safari, we also did an ecological walking trail, which we all felt a bit disappointed since there was not much to see and the trail was through some high and scratchy vegetation. There were millions of mosquitoes feasting on our flesh and to top it all off at the end, we were caught in a thunderstorm chasing us back to the Jeep. Many of the people in our group got soaked, but luckily Brian and I had our ponchos which kept us dry. 

 

 After doing this safari, we realized then that staying at the lodge at the very start of the Estrada Parque was a very wise decision. The road was full of potholes, old bridges, and muddy flooded areas so staying at the farms/ranchos deeper into the Estrada Parque would mean driving our small car on some very bad surfaces. 

Another activity I really enjoyed, although Brian did not enjoy it at all, was horse riding. The horses are very adapted to this environment and are very easy to ride even for someone like me who has not done much horse riding in the past.

The tour lasted about one hour and a half and although the scenery was not spectacular, it was interesting to see it from a different perspective and learn a little about the Pantanal men who use the horses to travel around and work the land around this region. 

Tips for Visiting Pantanal South:  The city of Campo Grande is the gateway for assessing Pantanal South. Another Access point is the city of Corumbá, but we can’t advise on that since we started our visit from Campo Grande. It is possible to hire a car in Campo Grande and drive yourself to your accommodation on the Pantanal. We hired a car with a company called Foco Aluguel de Carros and were very happy with them. Just make sure to go for their comprehensive insurance package (On our last day we drove through a puddle on an unmade road not realizing how deep it was and half ripped the front bumper off, without the full insurance that could have meant a very big bill!). Most people arrive in the city and then head out to the remote lodges/farms. The loges/farms provide all the food, accommodation and activities. They can also organize an airport pick up (although in our case we had our own hired car), public transport is virtually non-existent. Not all lodges/farms are good and some are quite rundown, therefore I recommend doing your research properly. We loved our Jungle Lodge, particularly the location right on the shores of the Miranda River, and would not hesitate to recommend it. Take long trousers, long sleeve shirts, and plenty of mosquito repellant. Enjoy this very unique environment. 

This post is Part I of our “Grand Tour” of Brazil, in Part II there will be plenty more adventures. I will be writing about our visit to Manaus, the Amazon Rain Forest, and some of the places we visited in Northeast Brazil. I would like to dedicate this post to my wonderful and very much loved father who sadly passed away at the end of our trip. He loved and was very proud of his home country of Brazil. He encouraged us with our exploring and was very excited about all the places we were going to visit. He lives forever in our hearts.