As new motorhome owners our maiden voyage was full of trepidation. We carefully planed a “shakedown” trip not far from home to learn all about our new home on wheels.
What could possibly go wrong?
Our maiden voyage was planned to be at a campsite very near our home, just in case we needed to beat a hasty retreat from the many disastrous scenarios that we thought could possibly happen to people like us… total newbies to motorhome life. We did get a great “demo” from
York, capital of the county of Yorkshire in the Northeast of England is a city steeped in history, the perfect place for a city break and a trip back in time to medieval England. In fact, you would be pushed to find another UK city with so much character and historical attractions that are all packed together within a very walkable range. Surrounded by a medieval wall this city is one huge monument to the past, its cobbled streets riddled with history and charm.
The Roman’s were here in AD 71,
The dramatic fjords and glaciers of Norway are among the most spectacular natural wonders of our little blue planet. They have been recognised as one of the “best-unspoiled travel destinations in the world ” and they are also deservedly a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So no surprise that cruising around the Fjords of Norway has been sitting in our wish list for many years, thinking what better way of seeing this diverse landscape than from the water?
And then in mid-August this year, we found ourselves with a window of opportunity to travel somewhere for one week… wanting little effort but with maximum reward, so we set sail from our home port of Southampton a short 30 minutes drive from our house. Checking into the P&O Ventura, our home for the next seven days, was a breeze; just a case of handing over our luggage, our car keys (so they could take care of our car whilst we were away), present ourselves at the check-in desk at our allocated time with all our documentation, and we were good to go.
Our very comfortable room with a window was already waiting for us and after a quick look around our floating hotel we soon found ourselves up on the top deck having a meal and enjoying a sea view.
We spent the rest of the day and all of the next day chugging across the North Sea towards our first port of call:
Stavanger
Pretty Stavanger
The ship docks right by the old town, so going ashore to explore was very easy. We spent most of the morning exploring this waterfront town which has some of the best preserved wooden buildings anywhere in Norway dating back to the 18th century.
Wooden houses at Gamle Stavanger
Later on, we boarded a small boat tour to one of the most striking tourist attractions near Stavanger called Preikestolen, meaning “Pulpit Rock” or also known as “Preacher’s Pulpit”. It is one of the most photographed places in Norway, and Instagram has certainly done a lot for its reputation. The tour was run by P&O and included the boat trip through Lysefjorden and a stop for waffles with strawberry jam, cream and a hot chocolate drink at a lovely restaurant overlooking the Lysefjorden.
Lysefjorden
Pulpit Rock, just sticking out at the very top
Pulpit Rock is a flat-topped cliff that rises about 1,982 ft/604m above the beautiful Lysefjorden. Many come to this area to climb up to Pulpit Rock or do some of the beautiful hiking trails around this area. But for us, it was a case of straining our necks looking up the gorgeous sheer cliff face. We will definitely return to this area in the near future to do some hiking. It is such a stunning place.
What is a Fjord do I hear you ask?
A Fjord is a deep, narrow and long ocean inlet surrounded by steep mountains. The Fjords are formed when the slow-moving glaciers carve their way through the rock as they move towards the sea. At the end of the Ice age that spawned them, they started retreating and seawater rushed in to replace the ice, flooding the valleys. Norway has the highest concentration of Fjords in the world. We only saw a smidgen of it, but it has left us hungry for more.
Our cruise ship sailed off from Stavanger later in the afternoon as we were already thinking and preparing for our next port of call. Arriving early in the morning at our next destination, we stood up on the top deck with a cup of coffee in hand taking in the quiet beauty surrounding us. There was hardly anyone up yet, total bliss.
Alesund
We booked another P&O excursion here, called ” Land of the Trolls” to explore further inland and find out what is the deal here with so many Trolls lurking around this area?
According to Norwegian folk legend, trolls roam through the mountains of Trollstigen every night but change to stone when they are hit by sunlight each morning. Every country has their own folk legends and stories, and our guide did a good job of telling us many interesting titbits about this region of Norway.
Well…the main event here is the drive through the Trollstigen, Norway’s most visited tourist road with its eleven incredible hairpin turns set among beautiful mountains and waterfalls. Interestingly each bend on the road has its own name, usually named after the person who has been responsible for the building work done at that particular stretch of road. Some segments of the road are mostly carved into the mountainside, a masterpiece of clever engineering.
Before driving down the hairpin bends we stopped for a while to visit the platform viewpoint. We were so disappointed that the whole site was shrouded in mist and fog when we first arrived. But we waited patiently and eventually, luck arrived on our side and as the clouds parted we were able to get a stunningly atmospheric view of the valley ahead and the vertiginous hairpin bends down below.
Viewing platform over the Trollstigen
Trollstigen
But this road is no joy ride as we later found out, in fact, I had my heart in my mouth for most of the way down. Our bus driver was a pro thank goodness..but not so much the driver in front of us who kept getting the hairpin bends wrong and having to reverse every time.
Olden
I think this port of call was probably our favorite of all the ports we visited on this trip. We got up early again to watch the sunrise behind the snow-capped mountains as our ship quietly and serenely glided through the glass-like waters of the Fjord into port. The sun soon started to warm up and temperatures rose to a very pleasantly warm day for exploring the Briksdal Glacier.
Brian enjoying the early morning sail into Olden
Again here we booked a tour bus with P&O which included transportation to the start of the trail up to the glacier, a guide who did very little guiding but who was very friendly and did explain a little about the area, and also included was coffee plus very yummy cakes which we devoured with great pleasure after the hike.
The bus left us at a large car park where there is a Lodge/cafe, gift shop, and toilet facilities. From there it is a 3 km easy to moderate hike up to the arm of the glacier which plunges down 1200 meters into the valley. Briksdalsbreen is an arm of the great Jostedalsbreen Glacier, located inside the Jostedalsbreen National Park.
For people who do not enjoy hiking or are unable to hike due to poor mobility, there are “Trollcars” that can be hired from the car park shop to take you up to the glacier. Each car can hold up 7 to 10 people. The road used for the” Trollcars” is not the same as the hiker’s road, but with just as stunning views all around.
We chose to hike, taking our time to enjoy the spectacular scenery of forested mountain tops, rock cliffs and waterfalls tumbling down the valley. You can hear the rushing water from the larger waterfall as you get closer to the glacier. The ice-cold spray of water can be felt as you cross a bridge very close to the waterfall.
We found the hike up to the glacier very easy indeed, but I expect the reason for that was that we were still very fit from the many strenuous hikes we had very recently done in Peru. And here we did not have to endure the high altitudes we experienced in Peru…there was so much more oxygen to breathe here just above sea level that our lungs could not believe their luck. If you are planning to do this hike make sure you are wearing comfortable hiking shoes/trainers. The hike up takes about 45 minutes, a bit shorter time for the way down…but of course, depends on how often you stop for photos.
Hike to Briksdal Glacier
Crossing the bridge is a guarantee of a cool water spray
You can see the Trollcars route here
Stunning scenery all around
Once we reached the top we were met by a green glacial lake and above it the tong of the glacier spilling down into the small lake. It would have been a very peaceful setting if not for the many tourists branding their selfie sticks. We enjoyed it nonetheless (we are tourists too, so can’t really complain) and we took our time there to enjoy such breathtaking scenery.
Brian and me at Briksdal Glacier
Upon our return to the car park area, we enjoyed coffee and cakes at the lovely little lodge/cafe area. Soon it was time to return to our cruise ship, and after a meal and a rest, we left the ship again for a little exploring around the small and very pleasant village of Olden. We walked towards the old Olden church built in 1759 and also the “new” Olden church built in 1934. There are alpine views all around, it is a town surrounded by great natural beauty.
Old Olden church built circa 1759
New Olden church built 1934
It is all about outdoor pursuits in this area. We vowed to return here in the near future to explore more and linger for longer to fully appreciate what this region has to offer. Unfortunately, our time exploring this stunning region soon ended and we sailed away to our next, and last, destination.
Bergen
Our last destination on this cruise was Bergen, Norway’s second largest city. Although beautifully situated in a convergence of Fjords Bergen, was shrouded in mist and the rain was pouring down heavily. It is known for being one
of the wettest cities in Europe and it certainly did not disappoint on that front. We did venture out in any case, armed with umbrellas and waterproof clothing that did little to keep us dry and warm. We visited the fish market..very briefly since there was
Brian and I arrived in Mexico’s Cancun Airport following a short, five-hour flight from Lima, Peru. After feeling cold in Peru for most of our three weeks adventure there, we were looking forward to the promise of warm and sunny days in the Mexican Riviera. We based ourselves at a lovely two bedroom Airbnb apartment in Playa Del Carmem, with plenty of room for us and our
Thousands of tourists every year find their way to Machu Picchu, hiking the Inca Trail just like the Incas did a few Centuries ago. The hidden citadel is a magnet for modern-day explorers who travel to Peru every year to experience one of the most incredible wonders of the world.
Most people who visit Machu Picchu choose the easiest and fastest way to get there….and who can blame them? Usually opting for a train ride that departs from the town of Ollantaytambo, where the Machu Picchu train takes people on a wonderful and scenic ride to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu. From Aguas Calientes, there is a shuttle bus service that takes tourists up the switchback road to the Machu Picchu site itself. These trip will be in itself remarkable and for many a dream trip, a once in a lifetime experience.
I travelled to Peru with my husband Brian, my sister Angelita and her husband Juliano in June 2018. It was our dream to hike the classic 4 days Inca Trail and arrive at Machu Picchu via the Sun Gate.
Unfortunately, when we tried to book it back in January ’18, to hike the trail in June ’18, it was already all fully booked. With the new Peruvian regulations limiting the daily number of people hiking the Inca Trail, places are now going faster than ever and need to be booked 7 to 8 months in advance. In fact the sooner the better, since there is a need for special permits that will be organized by the licensed tour agencies well in advance of the trek starting date. June, July and August is high season for hiking to Machu Picchu and therefore booking well in advance is the best way to avoid disappointment.
Disappointed we looked for alternatives since there are many other great treks to do in this area. The two-day trip, a shorter version of the classic Inca Trail caught our eye since it would give us the chance to arrive at the Machu Picchu ruins via the Sun Gate, something that we felt was important to us.
Some of the other treks we looked at such as the Salkantay, Lares trek, Choquerquirao Trek etc. don’t lead to the Sun Gate, but rather the finishing line is at Aguas Calientes (also called Machu Picchu Pueblo) the town nearest to the Machu Picchu ruins. From there, trekkers will either take the shuttle bus up to the ruins or walk up to the main ticket gates that allow entrance into the Machu Picchu ruins.
The walk up from Aguas Calientes is free and it takes about one and a half hours of quite a steep climb via a stone stepped pathway and, like the bus route, it leads to the main Machu Picchu entrance gate where the right type of ticket will need to be provided to gain entrance to the site.
People visiting Machu Picchu via the main ticket entrance can hike up to the Sun Gate and even experience the sunrise there if they so wish and are physically able to do the one hour hike up there. But for me, there promised to be something magical about seeing Machu Picchu for the first time after a long hike, following the Ancient Trail and entering it through the Sun Gate like the Incas used to do. Appreciating the ruins from this high point takes your breath away, what an incredible place to hide an entire community.
The shorter version of the Inca trail is about 10 km long and covers some of the most beautiful scenery of the Classic four days Inca Trail, minus some of the hardship of cold nights sleeping in damp tents after long exhausting days of trekking up mountains, suffering the effect of high altitude, and enduring the unsavoury bathroom facilities. It consists of one day moderately hard 5 to 6 hours hiking up some steep stone-paved paths, mixed with some more flatter terrain culminating with the arrival at the Sun Gate later in the afternoon. After the trek, it is also included a comfortable stay overnight at a hotel in Aguas Calientes and a return to the Machu Picchu citadel next day for a morning guided tour. It turned out to be the perfect option for us.
The shorter Inca Trail to Machu Picchu – Our Experience
Day One
Our day started early as we were picked up at 5:30 am at our hotel in Cusco. From our hotel our foursome group were driven by taxi for about one and a half hours, seeing dawn break on the stunning countryside, to the town of Ollantaytambo where we boarded the Vistadome train to Machu Picchu. The train ride was very comfortable, with huge windows showcasing the amazing Andean scenery. We were served a choice of hot or cold drinks and some cookies during the journey.
Train to Aguas Calientes
Sitting on the left side of the train and sharing a table between the four of us we had the best views along the banks of the rushing and tumbling Urubamba River to our left, and the snow-capped Andean Mountains overhead glanced every so often through the train’s large Vistadome windows.
We chugged along chatting and appreciating the stunning scenery. Our journey lasted about one hour and a half until the train briefly stopped at Km 104 which felt like the middle of nowhere, there is no train station there. Our group of four and a few others who were not part of our group left the train to start hiking with their respective guides.
Soon after jumping off the train we met our very own guide who would be accompanying our small group of four for the next two days. She was a lovely local woman who spoke to us mostly in Spanish, occasionally in English and of course, she was also fluent in the local Quechua language. She was very knowledgeable about the local culture, history and had many years of experience accompanying tour groups to the Machu Picchu ruins.
After meeting our guide we crossed the bridge over the Urubamba River towards the first checkpoint.
Bridge over the Urubamba River
Passports and permits were shown before we were given access to the start of the trail. There were some toilet facilities at this checkpoint, so we made the most of it since we would not have another chance for some time.
Not long after the start of our trek, we reached the first archaeological site of the day, the ruins of Chachabamba sitting at an altitude of about 2,170 metres. Our guide explained that this site was one of the last shelters that the Incas used before reaching Machu Picchu, it might have been used as a gate-house/guarded entrance to Machu Picchu. It is believed that it also operated as a religious and administrative centre, although there are no certainties about its function since the Incas did not have a written language and hence why there are still so many mysteries surrounding all aspects of their lives.
Chachabamba
Leaving Chachabamba behind we continued our ascent south via the stone laid Inca pathway, including some steep steps that at times disappeared behind the green forest canopy. We crossed a small stream and marvelled at the colourful wildflowers and breathtaking mountain scenery. There were some exposed areas with sheer drops down into the valley. Along the way, we were glad to have a chance to get a rest for a few minutes at two different shelters. We took the opportunity to have a small snack, a cold drink and our guide explained more about the history of our incredible surroundings.
With Angelita, Juliano, myself and Brian resting at one of the shelters along the Inca trail
Eventually, we reached a waterfall. We rested for a while, had a bit more to eat and drink, but decided against having our full lunch there. We carried on and decided to stop for our meal further ahead. It turned out to be a very good decision since when we finally arrived at Wiñay Wayna sitting at about 2,650 meters of altitude, we quickly realised that it would make the perfect and most beautiful lunch spot ever, so we sat down to eat whilst marvelling at our surrounds.
We had the place to ourselves, shared only with some very cute Llamas. Our boxed lunches were provided to us by the tour agency. The lunch consisted of cold fried rice with chicken, fruit juice and some fresh fruit. It was a very simple lunch, but we were all so hungry that we would have eaten insects if we had to. We were very mindful of the ancient site and making sure to take our rubbish with us afterwards.
Wiñay Wayna
Steep steps at Wiñay Wayna
After lunch, we continued our hike upwards and we eventually came to what looked like a campsite, our guide explained that people doing the classic four days Inca Trail would stay overnight at this campsite on day 3. We stopped to use the toilet facilities here, and it made us even more certain that the two-day trek was the best option for us. The small tents and smelly facilities were not something we would have relished. We did not linger for long and carried on towards the checkpoint.
We again had to show our permits and passports at the checkpoint before carrying on for one last push to the Sun Gate. Our guide explained that for the 4-day trekkers this checkpoint would often have very long queues early in the morning, an early start would have to be a must for trekkers to make it to the Sun gate in time for sunrise.
Queuing at this checkpoint in a cold early morning was something she used to particularly hate doing when guiding the four days classic Inca Trek.
Juliano and Lita braving the steep incline
The trail hugs the mountainside via a mossy cloud forest that feels very surreal, and the last steps up were very steep; an almost vertical flight of about 40 to 50 steps. We were feeling pretty tired by this point and it took all of our energy to get to the top.
The final uphill struggle to the Sun Gate
But once at the top, the rewards were incredible. Suddenly the whole of the Machu Picchu Citadel was spread out before us. We had arrived at Intipunku (Sun Gate). Both Angelita and I burst into tears…yes it was that emotional for us, a mixture of relief, exhilaration and a sense of accomplishment. A moment that none of us will ever forget.
Finally arrived at the Sun Gate
After taking our time to experience the views and take some of the obligatory photos at the Sun Gate we started the hike down to the Machu Picchu ruins, an easy descent of about forty-five minutes.
Brian, Lita and Juliano descending from the Sun Gate towards the Machu Picchu ruins
Finally, we reached the ruins of Machu Picchu just before 5 pm, the site was almost deserted of people. We enjoyed taking pictures devoid of the usual photobombers. We could not believe how beautiful the whole site was. Situated in such an amazing location surrounded by the Andean Mountains, no wonder it was hidden from the rest of the world for such a long time.
We all felt that even if the Inca ruins were not there, just the natural beauty of this area would have been enough to take your breath away.
A dream come true for us
But we were not allowed to linger for long or to fully explore the ruins just yet, since the last bus from Machu Picchu down to Aguas Calientes was soon to depart and so we made our way towards the exit. We would return to Machu Picchu with our guide the following morning for a guided tour and exploration.
After arriving at Aguas Calientes our exhausted and hungry group of 4 plus our guide found a nice little restaurant to have dinner and then crash at the very modest but comfortable hotel which was included in the price of our two-day exploring package. Both couples had a bedroom with en-suite facilities.
Day Two
The following day we returned by bus from Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu ruins for some more exploring of the site with our guide who gave us a tour of the most important sectors of the ruins. The weather was not as good as the day before and there were few heavy showers to contain with. But even the rain did not damp our spirits, it was fascinating to explore the ruins and learn more about the Inca citadel.
Inside the Machu Picchu Citadel
Machu Picchu ruins
Our guide explaining the local history
Rain clouds adding to the mystery of this amazing site
Not even the rain could dampen our spirits
We could have done the climb up to the mountain of Huayna Picchu Mountain, but we had decided against it and did not book a ticket, something that has to be done in advance. Just as well since the weather for climbing such a steep mountain would not have been very good.
Brave hikers at the entrance to the Huayna Picchu Mountain . A ticket has to be booked in advance for the climb up and there is a choice of doing a morning climb or an afternoon climb.
We caught the train back to Cusco later in the afternoon and spent the night at the same hotel we had stayed previously, where they had held most of our luggage for us. The following day we travelled by bus to Puno, for the next leg of our journey.
Tips for doing the shorter hike to Machu Picchu
If you enjoy hiking and are able to do so you are in for a treat. But if you are more of a hardcore thru-hiker or you have your heart set on doing the four days classic Inca Trek this shorter version with a comfortable overnight hotel stay might not be for you. If you are short on time or like us have not managed to book yourself into the Classic four days Inca Trek, this alternative shorter trek could be a good option for you, without feeling you have compromised too much.
Our Machu Picchu Trek was booked and paid (a deposit) for online six months in advance after we contacted the trekking agency via email. We chose a local company called Inka treks and were very happy with our option, it is nice to put money into the pockets of local companies rather than large multinationals – something we always make the point of doing whenever possible and have done it throughout our recent travels.
The travel trekking agency owner spoke very good English, he came to our hotel in Cusco two days before the trek to explain all about our two-day adventure, he was very friendly and helpful with all our questions. We even booked another tour around the Sacred Valley after our arrival in Cusco with him.
The trek cost us a total of US$ 450 per person; we paid 200 dollars per person as a deposit back in January to secure the bookings and we paid the balance of 250 dollars per person a day before the trek. The price included pick up at our hotel in Cusco with a transport to the train station of Ollantaytambo, a guide for the entire two days journey, all the permits and tickets for the Camino Inca and Machu Picchu ruins, breakfast (1), lunch(1), dinner(1), hotel overnight stay at Aguas Calientes, all transport such as train, bus, taxi from the moment you are picked up at your hotel in Cusco and return back to Cusco.
More info at info@inkatreks.com. Please note that this is not a sponsored post and it is also not a recommendation, just sharing the company we have used and we were very satisfied with the services offered. I recommend that you do your own research to find a company that you feel happy to use.
Don’t forget your passport, you are going to need it at all the trail checkpoints and to gain entrance to Machu Picchu. If like me you have renewed your passport soon after booking the Inca Trek, do make sure you bring your old passport with you since the passport number will not be the same as the old one or alternatively you can bring a copy of your old passport. In my case luckily I had a picture of my old passport on my phone…it saved the day.
Make sure you have sturdy hiking shoes, plenty of water, mosquito repellent, sun hat, sun cream, rainproof clothing, dress in layers since it will be cold, hot, humid on the trail and choose a very light backpack to carry it all…every extra and not needed item will weigh you down. We all used hiking poles and have to say we find them incredibly helpful, saving ankles and knees especially when you trip or stumble. It’s not a particularly tough hike, but it’s several hours of moderate incline and with the altitude, you will find yourselves breathing heavily for a lot of the way. There are a few exposed places but nothing too precipitous, and even Angelita who is very scared of heights was able to make it through, driven on by the thought of what was ahead.
Our hotel in Cusco kept hold of most of our luggage until our return to Cusco, most hotels/hostels are happy to store your stuff for you. Upon return to Cusco we stayed overnight again in the same hotel we had stayed before. We left mid-morning next day on a bus to Puno and the next leg of our three weeks trip.
The entire three weeks trip around Peru was organized by ourselves, we booked internal flights, hostels and our Machu Picchu Trek many months in advance, but we left other treks, tours, and between places bus journeys to book after our arrival at each location and we did not encounter any problems with doing some last minute bookings. Speaking Spanish is helpful, but not essential. Google translator can be very helpful if you don’t speak Spanish.
Peruvians are extremely friendly and we encountered only helpful and good people during our journey. We took the same travel security precautions that we would take when travelling anywhere in the world and we found Peru to be a safe country to travel around.
We left Peru after three fantastic weeks of exploring and headed to Mexico, where we met up with our lovely daughter Chloe. The three of us stayed at a gorgeous Airbnb property in Playa Del Carmen….but more on that at my next post.
Travelling in Peru did feel like a great adventure for us, and although not the easiest of countries to explore, the rewards are certainly exceptional.
Getting there from the UK is getting easier since I believe British Airways has just started flying directly from London to Lima. But no such luck for us though since our flight from London with Avianca had a quick stopover in Bogota. (Where we found ourselves strangely out of breath just walking through the airport, before realising that Bogota itself is a long way above our usual sea level. A taste of things to come!)
Altogether we spent three weeks exploring Peru, from the 3rd to 24th of June 2018 and we managed to put together quite a good itinerary, seeing most of the sights on our wish list. There are of course somethings that now with hindsight we would do differently, but not a huge amount, and I will talk about this a little more at the end of the post.
We travelled for the first two weeks with my sister Angelita (Lita) and her husband Juliano (Ju). It was back last year when Angelita told me she wanted to visit Machu Picchu in June/2018. Coinciding well with our recent retirement plans, Brian and I jumped at the chance of joining them and so plans started to take shape.
Our itinerary took us from Lima >Cusco > Machu Picchu > Puno > Lake Titicaca > Arequipa > Colca Canyon and Huaraz in The Cordilleras. Although I will be writing a more detailed blog post about some of the destinations we visited, here is just a quick glance at few of the things we got up to during this wonderful and memorable three weeks.
Lima
Lima, Miraflores’s “El Parque del Amor”/ Love Park with the large sculpture ” El Beso”/ The Kiss, sculpted by Victor Delfin
The Capital of Peru is the arrival hub of most people coming into the country. We started our adventure with three days allocated to this Peruvian coastal city. We stayed in Miraflores, most travellers tend to choose this area, or hippy Barranco, or upscale San Isidro. In my opinion, Miraflores is the perfect place to stay, I would also recommend accommodation as close as possible to the very scenic Malecon.
We made good use of the “El Metropolitano”, the new trans-Lima electric express bus system. A fast and cheap way to get into the city centre from Miraflores, Barranco and San Isidro. We bought a card at a cost of S 4.50 (called Tarjeta Intelligente) which can be credited for use ( a bit like the Oyster card in London). The average bus fare from Miraflores cost about S2.50.
Some of the highlights of our Lima stay:
The free walking tour of Lima’s city centre and colonial heart, we met our lovely guide at Plaza de Armas who conducted the tour in very clear and good English as well as Spanish. We spent a good 2 – 3 hours with him getting the lowdown on the local history and some other very interesting tidbits. (Eye-openers such as why the same building can look to be built in two different styles, the result of rebuilding following catastrophic earthquakes which are a regular occurrence in this seismically tumultuous region of our planet). Afterwards, we also had to do the obligatory visit to the Museo del Pisco….just for research purposes of course. Pisco sour is a delicious alcoholic cocktail of Peruvian origin, although both Chile and Peru argue over pisco sour as their national drink.
Pisco sour sampling at Museo del Pisco, Lima
The Cycling tour from Miraflores – The tour started at their base in Miraflores, from where we stayed mostly on a cycling path; visiting Love Park on the cliffs of Chorrillos overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Here a monumental statue of two lovers embracing each other is surrounded by a mosaic tiled wall depicting romantic quotations. We also cycled up to Barranco to visit the Bridge of Sighs and some beautiful graffiti art. Summing up all our energy we then cycled up a steep hill overlooking Lima where the monument Cristo del Pacifico/ Christ of the Pacific has been watching over the city since 2011 when it was unveiled by the then President of Peru, Alan Garcia among a lot of criticism and controversy.
Cristo del Pacifico watching over Lima
The memorable dinner at Hualca Puclana, a gorgeous restaurant that serves contemporary Peruvian food with amazing views of the centuries-old adobe pyramid of Hualca Puclana (dates between AD200 and 500) which is illuminated at night. Arriving at the restaurant felt odd, since the Ancient site is nestled in a residential area of high rise buildings and some high-end homes in a posh neighbourhood area of Miraflores.
Hualca Puclana restaurant, Miraflores, Lima
A meal here will set you back few Peruvian Soles, but it is definitely worth the splash….in our opinion. It is popular, so book to reserve a table beforehand if you are planning to visit, we actually asked the reception at our hotel to book it for us.
Cusco
Cusco Historic Centre, viewed from our restaurant balcony
Corpus Christi celebrations in Cusco are a very colourful affair
We flew from Lima to Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire. We allocated 3 days to acclimatize to the higher altitude of 3, 400 metres before our trek to Machu Picchu. We stayed at a colonial style hostel that had a charming interior courtyard near Mercado San Pedro, a short walking distance from Cusco’s Historic Centre.
With laboured breaths and fuzzy heads, we pounded the charming cobbled streets, admiring the ornate Baroque Cathedrals, Inca Architecture and enjoyed huge warm bowls of soup and other local specialities sitting high up on one of the restaurant balconies overlooking the stunning Plaza de Armas. It was our first experience of a high altitude stay.
Using Cusco as our base, we took a one-day bus tour to the Sacred Valley at a cost of S40 to visit Chincheros, Moray and the Salinas de Maras, all at an elevation of about 3, 300 metres in the Urubamba Valley. Tours can be easily booked once you arrive in Cusco, there is no need to book in advance.
Chincheros – A small village where we stopped for a demonstration of how wool is washed and dried using native plants and minerals. We got to sample some coca tea and a chance to buy some of their art crafts. I bought an alpaca wool jumper here since Peru was proving to be colder than I expected. There were beautiful views of the Sacred Valley. The village houses are mostly adobe homes, there are narrow cobbled streets, and like many of the other cities and villages we visited in Peru, we saw many people in traditional Peruvian dress.
She explained their traditions with a great sense of humour and perfect English
Moray or in the Quechua language Muray – The entrance ticket to the site is S70 (not usually included in the cost of the tour).
It is an archaeological site about 31miles/50 km from Cusco. The site consists mostly of several terraced circular depressions which are believed, according to our guide to have been used for agricultural experiments, planting seeds and a very clever drainage system, although historians are not certain. It is interesting that there is a difference in temperature of as much as 15 degrees C from the bottom to the top of the circles.
The archaeological site of Moray
Salinas
Our recent trip to Tobago was our third visit to this little Caribbean Island, just off the coast of Venezuela, having visited previously in 2013 and 2015. Combined our three visits have afforded us five weeks of exploring this beautiful Island.
Why returning to an Island we have already visited twice, when there are so many other Caribbean Islands to experience? Or indeed a whole world out there still to explore?
There is a long and convoluted answer to this question, but to keep things simple Tobago feels like an old friend, somewhere we already know we love. For this trip, we split our stay between one week at the Coco Reef Hotel on a bed and breakfast basis, and we rented a three bedroom villa via Airbnb at Blackrock for our second week where our son James and his girlfriend Robyn joined us.
I have made a short list of what is so lovable about this island …..in our opinion.
What we love about Tobago
Jamie and Robyn in front of one of our favourite restaurants at Castara. It is just a shack by the seafront, but the food is yummy and the views to die for.
Authenticity
Tobago feels very authentic Caribbean, for a variety of reasons mass tourism has not yet quite arrived in Tobago. There are no large International resorts in the Island (yet), although there are talks of Sandal’s Resorts to open in Tobago on the Golden Grove and Buccoo Estates at the South-West end of the Island. But for the time being Tobago remains the best-kept secret of the Caribbean, totally free from the selfie-stick brandishing tourists and from the spring-breakers crowd that tend to plague some of the other more popular Caribbean Islands. During our two weeks visit, we found Tobago to be a bit too quiet even and we had the Island practically to ourselves due to a combination of visiting it during low season and the current downtrend in tourism levels.
It is a very colourful nation, they love bright colours for their house, clothes, furniture, costume jewellery etc.
Bright colours everywhere
The people
We found the locals to be very friendly and fun, the whole Island has a very laid back and intimate feel. Particularly in the North of the Island, the small fishing communities where everyone greets you with a smile. But even in the more popular and lively South West, we found people to be very open and friendly. We talked to some entrepreneurial young people starting up a new business, such as the small food stall open just two weeks ago at Mount Irvine Beach. He opened the business with his mother who does most of the cooking, and he looks after the customers with great enthusiasm and charm.
The food
A diverse mix of African Creole, Indian and even Chinese influences. There are no large food chain restaurants, we found mostly independent, family-run restaurants. Small food stalls, beach bars that also serve local freshly cooked food. Some of the places don’t even have a menu. The waiter tells you what is available, usually something with chicken, goat or fish that will come with rice, potatoes and local vegetables currently in season. All cooked to perfection with unique Caribbean flavours. For a small Island, there are a lot of good food options in all different price ranges. We paid on average of £20 per person when eating on the top restaurants in the South of the Island, or as little as £3 pp for the local fayre at food stalls.
Some of the local dishes include callaloo (a sort of coconut and spinach soup), curried crab and dumpling, chicken pelau (slow cooked chicken with coconut, spices and rice), roti (a thick curry of chickpea and potato with either beef, chicken, shrimp or goat, wrapped in a kind of flour tortilla). Roti has to be Tobago’s best “fast food”, it is cheap and delicious…but do watch out for small bones that are often cooked with the chicken and goat meat.
Some of our favourite restaurants in the South of the Island are: The Fish Pot at Pleasant Prospect – it is a Tobago institution. Also the lovely Seahorse Inn at Grafton Beach Road another long established and popular restaurant it serves high-quality food at reasonable prices. But don’t miss out on a great curry at Bagos at Crown Point, this seafront shack/sunset bar is the authentic Caribbean, don’t be put off by the plastic tables and chairs…the setting is gorgeous, the owner Shirley is extremely friendly and welcoming, we loved it so much that we went there many times for sunset drinks and food.
Bagos at Crown Point, our favourite sunset bar
Roti is the best “value” meal of the Island……Tobago’s fast food.
Small food stalls at Store Bay serving budget-friendly meals such as Roti and curried crab and dumpling.
Shrimp curry
The beaches
There are many to choose from, white sand, clear and warm turquoise water. Great for water activities such as snorkelling, kayaking, windsurfing, SUP, diving, fishing etc.
In the south of the Island, our favourite beaches are Pidgeon Point, Mount Irvine and Black Rock. In the North, we love Castara, Englishman’s Bay, Parlauvier, Charlottesville and Pirate’s Bay, but don’t take my word for it – go to visit them all. The whole Island is very accessible, you are never more than an hour to an hour and a half from anywhere. We rented a car from the ever friendly and efficient KCNN for our two-week stay; petrol is cheap and driving is the same as back at home…on the right side.
Pidgeon Point
View of Parlauvier from “Glasgow Bar”……Scotish Robyn felt at home here.
Brian, James and Robyn waiting for our meal to arrive at our favourite restaurant in Castara
The wildlife
Pristine, lush natural beauty, this Island is home to some amazing wildlife. Tobago is home to the oldest protected rainforests in the Western world, with its unique tropical fauna and flora. Tobago is a bird watchers’ paradise, along with big-sister Trinidad it is a heaven for some incredible species of birds.
Sorry…don’t know your name, maybe a mot-mot?
We had just watched him stalk and catch a little crab, still in his beak
There are great efforts towards conservation going on in the Island. The Save Our Sea Turtles (SOS) charity leads the way in conservation of Green, Hawksbill and Giant Leatherback Turtles.
Unique Experiences
We enjoyed a fun evening at the purpose-built goat race stadium at Buccoo, although the rain was pelting down for some of the time, we were under cover and it did not deter us. It was great fun to see the all preened and dressed-for-the-occasion goats all lined up for their running down the track accompanied by their owners/trainers, who run alongside them barefoot. In between goats and crab racing we loved listening to the Steelpan music emanating from carefully shaped oil barrels. Music is ever present everywhere in the Island.
Unfortunately, we were too tired to stay for Sunday School, we did see the dance hall just across the road from the goat race stadium. Nothing to do with religion Sunday School is just a big street party. Brian and I did partake back in 2015 when we visited with our friends Mark and Marion.
An evening at the Goat Races
Traditional Fishing Villages
Where pulling of the seine net is still a daily occurrence… places such as Castara, where many traditions remain. Many of the locals still earning their living from fishing, just like the previous generations have done. The sea in Castara is great for snorkelling. James and his girlfriend Robyn spotted some large and a little scary Stingrays during a snorkelling session one early morning at Castara’s big bay.
Tending the seine net at Castara
Fantastic Water Activities
With so many great beaches Tobago has no shortage of water activities, from scuba diving, kayaking, windsurfing, SUP, kitesurfing, fishing. But also some more unusual water activities such as waterfall swimming and bathing.
Argyle waterfall located on the Northeast side of the Island is Tobago’s highest, at 54 metres/175 feet. Access is via a 15 to 20 minutes trek along a clearly marked trail ( no need for a guide), there is a fee of about TT$60 at the entrance office. On the trail, you will find a variety of birds and other tropical forest creatures along with some very pretty butterflies. The cool, crisp water flows down three levels. Accesses to the upper levels is via an uphill bushy path on the right-hand side, there are ropes there to help ease the climb.
Robyn and Jamie could not resist a shower under the thunderous waterfall
Amazing Sunsets
James and Robyn enjoying a sunset at our rented villa
The weather
Perfect temperature all year round, warm without getting too hot and with low humidity during the day, the evenings are usually warmly pleasant. There are two main seasons, wet from June to December and dry from January to May. But there are lots of warm, sunny days even in the rainy season. Tobago is not in the hurricane zone, which tends to plague many parts of the Caribbean. It has a truly unique microclimate.
Our Tips For Visiting Tobago
- Hire a car – Driving in Tobago is easy, car hire and fuel inexpensive, and it’s a great way to get out and about and engage with the real island vibe. The roads can be a little narrow and winding, but there are few main roads so it is hard to get lost (but not completely
A Buddhist Temple of Tibetan traditions located only 30 km from my hometown of Canela was certainly an unexpected discovery during my recent visit to Brazil in December 2017. My sister Angelita who has been a fan of the Buddhist Temple of =&0=& for some time was keen to enlighten me about the teachings of Chagdud Tulku Rinpoche, the high Lama who settled in this region of Brazil in 1995.
Upon arrival, we watched a short video that tells the history of Khadro Ling, who left Tibet for India following the Chinese invasion in 1959. I learned little from the video since we only managed to catch the end of it. But later on, I read more about his journey from Tibet. He was the sixteenth Tulku of the Chagdud line who practised Tibetan Buddhism primarily in the Nyingma tradition of Padmasambhava. He has certainly led a fascinating life, including a life in exile from his beloved Tibet. Following Tibet’s invasion in 1959, Chagdud Tulku escaped to India where he lived in a number of Tibetan refugee camps. He later also lived in Kathmandu, Nepal and in the USA where he continued his teachings.
It was in 1992 that he accepted an invitation to teach in Brazil which led to him becoming a pioneer insofar as spreading the Dharma in South America. He moved to the Chagdud Gonpa Khadro Ling Temple in the town of Três Coroas, RS, Brazil in 1995. The Temple became the main seat of his activities for the rest of his life. He died peacefully at his home in Três Coroas in 2002 due to heart failure. His main students and the lamas he ordained continue to teach and carry on Chagdud’s many projects and practices in this region of Brazil and further afield.
Meditation is open to all here every Sunday from 9:15 am to 10 am. There are also opportunities to be part of ongoing meditation retreats and practices on site. During our visit, there was a retreat going on and hence why there were restricted visiting areas inside the Temple.
The site is located at the top of a mountain, surrounded by lush vegetation and natural beauty. It includes a large statue of Buddha, there are eight large Stupas, the main Temple itself and various other buildings erected at a later stage by artists, devotees and craftsmen from Nepal. The resident community is responsible for local maintenance and activities, volunteer workers are welcome.
Angelita trying to align her “chakras”
Main Temple
Large Buddha statue
According to the idealization of Chagdud Rinpoche, the temple was built to inspire positively all visitors regardless of their religious beliefs or traditions. Perfectly located in this quiet and idyllic setting it has certainly inspired me to learn more about Buddism and meditation.
Something To Eat
There is no food for sale inside the Temple complex site, there is only a small gift shop that sells water and soft drinks. You can bring your own food and drinks to make good use of the surrounding gardens and shaded areas for a picnic.
My sister and I went for a meal beforehand at the “Espaco Tibet” Restaurant, which claims to be the first Tibetan Restaurant of Brasil. It is located not far from Khadro Ling Temple complex, with an easy access from the main road between Porto Alegre and Gramado. There is a good car park on site. It is perfectly positioned on a hill overlooking the small town of Três Coroas and surrounded by lush green vegetation. As we entered the peaceful garden we could hear soothing Tibetan songs.
Tibetan inspired garden
You can eat “al fresco” if you wish
Angelita enjoying a peaceful sitting area at the Tibetan inspired gardens
Before our meal, we explored the beautifully kept gardens which have been carefully created to give the illusion of suddenly arriving in Asia. There is attention to detail, lots of hidden corners and places for contemplation and tranquillity.
Inside the Restaurant there is again a clear Asian vibe, staff are extremely friendly, the food had all the flavours of a unique culinary experience. Before the meal, we were served a complimentary Tibetan tea.
Complimentary tea
Angelita and I spent a day immersed in a different culture in the most unexpected of places. We ate the Tibetan flavours, we rejoiced in the peace and tranquillity of the Buddist Temple, we drank Tibetan tea. But also not forgetting our own traditions we drank Chimarrão sitting on our picnic blanket over the grass, shaded by trees overlooking the Tibetan Stupas.
It was most definitely one of the favourite days I had during my recent visit to Brazil.
Angelita brought the Chimarrão
It is only appropriate that I leave you with a favourite Buddha quote :
“We are shaped by our thoughts; we become what we think. When the mind is pure, joy follows like a shadow that never leaves.”
Relatively undiscovered by international tourism, the beautiful beach of “Praia do Rosa” is located in the State of Santa Catarina on the Southern Brazilian coastline, only about 1 hour 30 min drive from the State Capital of Florianopolis. The white sandy bay is surrounded by green hills covered in tropical foliage. It has an easygoing, hippy vibe with a good mix of peaceful surroundings that attracts people looking for nature and solitude – although the main central hub has many lively cool bars and restaurants, with live music which can be enjoyed in the warm evenings by families and/or group of friends of all ages. The town is known for its excellent seafood, growing surfing community and relaxed pace of life. Apparently, the surfers discovered Praia do Rosa in the 1970’s attracted by the allure of catching the perfect wave. Praia do Rosa has a good infrastructure, although it remains quite rustic with mostly unmade roads still covered by sand, it remains a hidden gem, off the beaten path.
Surfers at Praia do Rosa
But before I tell you more about our stay at Praia do Rosa let’s rewind a bit to the start of our trip …..
My daughter Chloe and I left England soon after Christmas. We were both looking forward to another mother/daughter trip and to escaping the dreary British winter. Flying from the UK to Brazil is usually expensive at all times, but even more so during the Christmas/New Year period when costs escalate to another level. Therefore, to keep costs down we flew from London via another European city (Amsterdam); it is a long and exhausting trip which took us more than 24 hours to arrive at our final destination: my hometown of Canela in the deep South of Brazil.
After a connecting flight in Amsterdam, we flew to Sao Paulo, Brazil and the gateway to our next destination. Ahead of us there was another two-hour internal flight to get to Porto Alegre in the State of Rio Grande Do Sul, where my sister Angelita and her husband Juliano would be waiting for us. On arrival at Sao Paulo airport, we had to collect our bags and check them in again for the domestic flight. Unfortunately, our luggage did not arrive – it was stuck in Amsterdam! We were then told our luggage would take at least another 3 days to get to us.
We wasted no time getting upset over our missing luggage since our connecting flight southbound was about to leave very soon and we had to run fast to the other side of the huge Guarulhos Airport to catch it.
We spent the next two days in Canela getting ready for our trip to the seaside, unsure about when we would be reunited with our missing luggage, and with nothing to wear for the next few days we had no choice but to endure the arduous job of clothes shopping…. there is always a silver lining!
New Year Celebrations
We left Canela on December the 30th for the seaside town of Torres, where my father has a beach-house in the nearby resort of Lagoa do Jardim. There was a big group of us travelling together by car including my father, sisters, brother, nephews, nieces etc. The road trip is very picturesque via the “Rota do Mar” road descending from the highlands of the “Serra Gaucha” to sea level.
With my daughter Chloe on the “Rota Do Mar” road
Celebrating New Year with the Brasilian family was great and very different from my usual cold New Year celebration in the UK. My father and brother cooked a barbecue and just before midnight we all sat around a large table to eat together. Midnight arrived with the popping of champagne corks and a warm welcome to 2018. We celebrated until the wee small hours, chatting, eating, drinking, looking at the fireworks going off at a neighbour’s house and we even ventured for a quick walk to the beach, although we all felt the water was a little too cold for a night swim.
Although Praia do Rosa (PdR) is just across the border from Torres. It took us about four hours by to get to our destination. Although the long car journey was mostly because we did get a bit lost and missed the turning to PdR which is not clearly marked. We also spent a lot of time going in circles around PdR looking for our elusive accommodation. Signposting in Brazil is notoriously bad.
Praia Do Rosa
We rented a house for a three-day stay at Praia do Rosa. Our group had shrunk a bit for this leg of our trip since my father, his partner Dete, my brother J. Remy, sister-in-law Janea and niece Kalinka returned to Canela due to other commitments. But there were still quite a few of us and so we travelled in a convoy of two cars. In the boy’s car was my brother-in-lawJuliano with my nephews Pabblo and Lucas. The girl’s car was driven by my sister Angelita with me as a co-driver, in the back seat there was my sister Virginia with her daughter Lauren and my daughter Chloe. The journey took us about four hours with a stop for lunch and some missing turns due to poor road signing coupled with difficulties of finding our accommodation.
We loved our accommodation and particularly it’s location in the centre of the action and just a short, albeit hilly, walk to a lovely beach. The main downside of our apartment was that it only had one shower room to share between the eight of us. We did manage it ok though by taking turns to return home from the beach and shower at different schedules, only for 3 days it was certainly not perfect but doable.
We were delighted that our dear friend Sinara, who had lived with us in London many years ago was also in town, although luckily for her not sharing our one bathroom. She now lives in Porto Alegre, capital of Rio Grande do Sul and she travelled to PdR especially to meet up with us. She was staying at a nearby hotel. If you follow this blog you will know her from our one week trip together to Rome, Vesuvius and Herculaneum.
Hiking from Praia do Rosa do Praia Vermelha
The hills around PdR make for some fantastic hikes to lovely secluded beaches and coves, and we chose to hike from Rosa do Praia Vermelha; although our kids opted out of this hike for a more relaxing time at the beach and surfing.
The trail is well marked and not too demanding, although there were some steeper and also rocky parts that made it a little harder on our feet and knees. The trail starts at the sandy beach until you reach an opening into a wooded area with tropical foliage all around.
Sinara, Virginia, Angelita and Juliano all relaxed at the start of the trail
Angelita at the start of the trek…lots of shade here
There is a wooden walkway at the start of the trail as you emerge from the tree-shaded area. From here onwards there is not a lot of shade, so make sure to bring a hat and lots of sun protection lotion.
Wooden walkway
The views are amazing all around, with lush green hills in the distance, sheer cliff rocks down below and a beautiful blue sea. We stopped regularly to catch our breath, drink copious amounts of water, and enjoy the views
Juliano, Angelita, Virginia and Sinara enjoying the panoramic views
Praia Vermelha is only accessible by trails from Praia do Rosa or Ouvidor Beach. The secluded cove has no facilities or vendors so bring everything you need food and drink wise with you. The walk there and back took us about 3 hours including our stop for a refreshing swim at Praia Vermelha.
Secluded cove of Praia Vermelha is only accessible by trail…we loved our swim here
It is possible to see Southern Right Whales “Baleias Francas” here from July to November. They migrate here to mate, breed and feed their youngsters. It is also possible to spot dolphins frolicking in the clear water. Sadly for us, we spotted neither during our stay.
There are many other great trails to do in this area, in fact, our daily walk to the beach felt like a hard trek since it was quite hilly getting from our accommodation to our favourite beach. The saving grace was that the hike was very picturesque via lush vegetation, wildflowers and a beautiful salt lake called “Lago do Meio” (middle lake) used for kitesurfing, windsurfing and stand up paddleboarding.
Salty lake ” Lago do Meio”
In the evening we usually walked into town for a meal and/or hang out at a lovely live music bar. The small town is very walkable with rustic charm and a hippy vibe. It was great that our teenagers were able to hang out with us every night and be allowed into the very family orientated bars, enjoy the atmosphere with a drink (alcohol-free off course, since only Chloe was old enough to drink alcohol), listening to live music, chatting and people watching.
Sorry, not a great night photo…it was taken with my mobile phone.
Cousins Lauren, Lucas, Chloe and Pabblo
It was particularly nice to see the lovely relationship between the four cousins; Pabbo and Lucas ( my sister Angelita’s boys), my daughter Chloe and my sister Virginia’s daughter Lauren. The girls who were both born in the UK are able to speak and understand a good amount of Portuguese. They all live miles away from each other in different countries, meeting up only every two to three years so they don’t fluently speak each other’s language, yet their bond is so strong, there is an underlying understanding, an easiness in each others company that goes beyond language skills.
After our foray in Praia do Rosa we said a sad goodbye to our friend Sinara and we drove back to Canela since Virginia, Lauren and Chloe had a plane to catch and a long journey back to the UK. I stayed behind for another two weeks in my hometown and had a chance of catching up with friends and family for a while longer.
If you are visiting Santa Catarina in the very South of Brazil I would definitely recommend few days at Praia do Rosa to enjoy nature, good food and amazing local hospitality at a place that feels very authentic and not yet ruined by mass tourism.
Brian and I climbed Le Morne Brabant Mountain