Dramatic Mountain Rescue At Trollstigen In Norway
The twisty Trollstigen, also know as “Troll’s Ladder” oozes dramatic scenery with its 11 hairpin bends and cascading waterfalls. A road carved at the side of a mountain providing a rollercoaster of a ride with a 10% steep incline and narrow, twisting switchbacks. Basically it is a single lane road for most of the way, with some larger passing points in certain strategic places.The road is normally open from end of May to the end of October. It closes in the winter due to heavy snow.
This road is often rated as one of the best drives in the world and it is the most visited tourist road in Norway. We have already visited it last year when we came to Norway on a cruise of the fjords. The cruising company offered a day tour to this area and I remember breaking into a sweat when our tour bus was being hurtled down all the 11 hairpin bends by our skilful bus driver. It impressed us so much then, that we couldn’t wait to return and drive it ourselves (or rather Brian driving with me as a co-driver).
We expected plenty of dramatic scenery when we visited recently at the end of August/2019, but we certainly did not expect to witness a dramatic mountain rescue operation to boot. All unravelling right next to our motorhome overnight stop at the main carpark of the tourist centre, located on the plateau at the top of the Trollstigen.
Rewinding a bit to few days beforehand, we started our journey from the town of Åndalsnes just 15 km from Trollstigen. Set in a valley alongside Romsdalfjord, this town is relatively modern since it was badly bombed during WWII. The small town of just about 3,000 inhabitants is surrounded by mountains of up to 1800 metres and offers many outdoor activities including hiking and a popular Via Ferrata.
View of Åndalsnes from our motorhome.
We stayed overnight on the shores of the fjord at an off grid location. A few days previously I had managed to break the handle on the passenger’s side of our motorhome.
Kroken Åndalsnes workshop were super efficient and got our door handle fixed.
So Brian contacted a garage in Åndalsnes and they told us to bring our motorhome into their workshop on Monday morning. It did not take them long to fix it and we were happy to hear that it was still under warranty, therefore nothing to pay…great result.
We set off soon after lunch time heading for Trollstigen, but took a small detour and stopped briefly at the tourist centre of Trollveggen with its moody and huge rock wall. The highest vertical rock face in Europe is very popular with climbers and base jumpers.There are 1800 meters from the bottom of the valley to the top! 1000 meters of which are vertical, and in some places the wall is “hanging” 50 meters outwards.
Trollveggen rock face and small memorial to the people who have lost their lives climbing or base jumping.
It was sad to read about the climbers who have lost their lives here, even as recently as July/2019 two Czech climbers lost their lives climbing Trollveggen rock face. It took rescuers four days to recover their bodies, since mountain rescues in this area can be very difficult. A memorial plaque bears their names along with others who have sadly also perished in these mountains. In the eighties, base jumping was banned at this site after a number of accidents with very expensive rescue operations, since all rescuing operations are paid for by the Norwegian government.
This mountain range is no stranger to tragic accidents and just this year alone there has already been plenty of action for the mountain rescue team in this area. In July/2019 a tourist from Lithuania has died after falling backwards into the river. He was taking a picture when he lost his balance and went backwards over the railing and down into the river that runs alongside the Trollstigen Pass. Unfortunately he was already dead when the rescue team caught up with him further downstream.
The drive up Trollstigen
The drive up Trollstigen was a bit nerve-racking (I was glad not be in the driver’s seat), but fortunately the traffic was light and we did not encounter too many buses coming from the opposite direction. It is an awesome road trip and one that we can wholeheartedly recommend. It certainly did not disappoint and we consider it one of our top favourite drives in Norway.
At the start you will drive over a natural stone bridge where you get up close and personal with the beautiful Stigfossen waterfall.
It then climbs up to Stigrøra at about 858 metres above sea level in a series of twisty 11 hairpin bends until you reach the plateau at the top. The road which is in places cut into the side of a mountain is an impressive feat of engineering dating back to nearly 100 years ago. His Majesty King Haakon VII opened this road in the summer of 1936.
Plateau at the top of Trollstigen with tourist centre.
Once at the top there is a tourist centre comprising of a café with panoramic windows, a souvenir shop and toilets. The car park was quite busy when we arrived, but we managed to get a parking space for our motorhome, before heading out towards the viewing platforms. There are epic uninterrupted views from the steel and glass viewing platform, where you feel like floating over the landscape.
Trollstigen viewing platform.
Epic views from here.
Trollstigen, one of the most popular road trips in Norway.
We spent some time having a good look around, enjoying all the incredible views, before settling down for the night at the car park (we were actually not allowed to stay there overnight, but we did not realise our mistake until the next morning when we spotted the sign…oops).
It was only next morning that we noticed the “no camping” sign.
It was rather odd that we did not have the usual motorhome neighbours parked next to us. Particularly this being such a great location to stay overnight. We did find out why the next morning. Interestingly with all the police action throughout the night, they did not bother us at all.
Mountain Rescue
I did notice a police car at around 11pm with his headlights pointing towards another car in the car park, I mentioned it to Brian, but we both felt there was nothing to be concerned about.
It rained a lot overnight and we did not hear anything going on at all, until at around 5am when a helicopter hoovering over our motorhome abruptly woke us up. We looked through the window and saw that there were two other police cars next to the car we had noticed there the previous night. We quickly realised that the car owner must be missing and there was a search party now looking for him/her. It was barely light as the helicopter flew slowly up and down the valley with its hugely powerful searchlight sweeping along the valley sides in the morning gloom
The rescue helicopter hovered for ages above us.
At around 6am the helicopter landed next to us, the rescue team got out and chatted for a while with the police officers. They did not stay landed for long and got back in the air for some more searching soon afterwards. By this time I could no longer sleep, so just got up and made coffee. Both Brian and I feared for the worst. It was a cold and wet night, therefore someone out in this kind of conditions would be very lucky to be found alive. We also wondered if perhaps it was a suicide, since there are huge drops from the viewing platforms.
He was found alive and successfully rescued.
At around 7am the missing person was found by the rescuing team on the ground. A man of about 50 to 60 years old, was been carried on a stretcher, we could see that he was very much alive and even able to talk to the medics. The rescuing helicopter landed once again next to us in the car park before whisking him to the nearest hospital for further treatment. We both felt so relieved to see that this rescue mission was completed successful.
After breakfast we enjoyed another look around before the hordes of tourists arrived, it was now beautifully peaceful and quiet. It was great to be able to stay here overnight, although we were not actually supposed to. We then continued our journey down the tourist route towards the Geranger Fjord and another adventure awaits us.
What an exciting experience. Glad it turned out well and that your camping didn’t cause a problem. Amazing scenery.
Peggy, we had quite an eventful time here in this region. The positive outcome of the rescuing mission was a great relief for all. We had no idea we had parked in a “no camping” area, but the police did not appear very concerned about our little mistake. I guess they were busy with more important things to do.
Gilda what a dramatic part of your journey! This place looks breathtaking, no wonder you went back to explore it with more time. The scenery is so dramatic. Hilarious you did not notice the No Camping sign. It must have been worrying watching the rescue team trying to find that guy. It never ceases to amaze me the crazy things people do. I suppose all adventures carry a certain amount of risk.
I am in Ollantaytambo. We are spending 3 days here acclimatising before boarding our train to km 104 to start our Inca trek. I am in love with this ancient Inca town. It is so tranquil, beautiful, surrounded by ruins and incredible mountains. Jack is loving it too.
Val, we got plenty of drama here for sure. How wonderful that you and Jack are having a great time in Peru. An amazing mother and son trip, I am so happy for you. I hope the weather will be dry for your trekking to Machu Pichu…enjoy and I will look forward to hearing all about it when you return 🙂
What an impressive drive with awesome views. Glad you managed to get around all the hairpin bends safely. Luckily the rescue mission ended well; it is never a good idea to hike on your own in such treacherous areas. At least the man was found and survived to tell the tale – it could have been a lot worse…
Lieve
Lieve, this area is so beautiful and dramatic, it was a big highlight of our 3 months in Norway. This area is notorious for treacherous conditions and rapid changes in weather conditions. He was indeed very lucky to have been rescued alive. We were extremely relieved with the positive outcome.
So glad to hear that the rescue found the man alive and able to speak. The mountain sounds like it has claimed many. The person falling backward taking a selfie another to add to the growing list of incidents around the world like that. Obviously the no camping rule is not enforced to stringently. What a place to call home.
Sue, mountains are dangerous places since the weather can change so fast. We were relieved to witness a successful rescue mission, it could have so easily be a very different outcome. Very sad about the Lithuanian tourist who has died in such tragic way, it does highlight the dangers of the careless “selfies”. We visited this area at the end of the season, so I think that perhaps the “no camping” rule was not being taken as seriously. It was great to be there in the morning just before all the hordes of tourists arrived and have the place to ourselves.
Beautiful and exciting post, Gilda! I continue to be impressed with Brian’s expert driving skills. We have also witnessed (and even assisted) in a few emergency situations during our travels. I think it is simply a function of us just being out-and-about observing the world on a daily basis. I am happy that the extent of your own potential peril was only a broken door handle, repairable under warranty. Happy and safe travels!
Joe, I was glad not to be on the driving seat going up the Trollstigen. I think Brian was a little nervous before taking the plunge, but certainly kudos to him for being brave enough to do it. We have had few minor issues with our home-on-wheels, but luckily all things that have been easy to fix. I remember your “earthquake incident” in Mexico, that would certainly have freaked me out.
I always feel terrible that people have to be rescued for one reason or the other. Rescuers also have to risk their lives and sometimes die when people make bad decisions. I’m glad the rescue went well, but l worry about this selfie craziness that is costing people their lives. Your pictures are stunning. Glad the door handle was still under warranty :-). No out of pocket is always good.
Kemkem, the emergency team does and amazing job. Like you mentioned it, often taking risks with their own lives, it is incredible. We have seen so many people taking risks for the sake of a photo, during our travels in Norway. The Instagram generation do some crazy things…often I don’t think they realise how dangerous it is. We were so glad to have found such a great garage to fix our door handle under warranty, they were super efficient.
What stunning views and quite an experience! We often get the air ambulance flying over (and occasionally landing nearby) as we live in rural mid Wales and it can take a while to get to a hospital.
Thank you, this region of Norway was very special. The flying ambulance in the UK does an amazing job, rural areas certainly could not do without this kind of service. I love Wales, we would like to tour with the motorhome in the near future. Thanks for visiting the blog and commenting 🙂
Just spectacular photos Gilda. Hey, how long have you guys been in Norway?
I’d be nervous driving some of those turns on a motorhome. What a great mode of travel you guys have!
Thank you, Norway has been a very photogenic place. We were in Norway for about 3 months. We left on Monday and we are currently in Denmark and on our way home. I think a home-on-wheels is perfect for exploring Europe, it gives so much flexibility. I can’t think of another type of travelling that combines comfort, flexibility and affordability so perfectly.
My favourite view is the one across that mirror clear water to the town. What a fabulous shot, Gilda 🙂 🙂
Thank you Jo, we stayed there overnight. It was a great location and such stunning views across the Fjord 🙂
You’ve been RVíng for a while…looking forward to being back? Just in time for miserable weather and whatever falls out of Brexit. When’s your next trip?
We are both looking forward to going home and seeing our family and friends. Don’t even get me started on Brexit, so depressing. We are already planning the next trip, possibly SE Asia in January/February/March so we can escape the cold weather a bit. I am already reading some of your blog posts on that region 🙂
Gosh that sounds quite an adventure Gilda! So glad the hiker was found safe and sound and that you didn’t get into any trouble for your overnight stop! Those view are sensational -not sure I’d be game to drive up there though we did go down the Maloya Pass in the Swiss Alps once by bus (we were being driven!) and that was spectacular 🙂
Rosemary, I think you would enjoy Trollstigen. It looks scarier than it is in reality…people drive very slowly there. If you have enjoyed the Maloya Pass in the Swiss Alps you would be fine here. I can’t tell you how relieved we felt when the hiker was found alive and was successfully rescued. It was quite emotional, for me in particular.
I’d be ok if someone else was driving – we had a very experienced bus driver taking us down the Maloya Pass! The views were jaw-dropping and the drop nearly vertical! I can well understand how relieved and emotional you must have felt when that hiker was found alive – it wouldn’t be the sort of place you’d want to be stranded out in the open at night.
Yes, better if someone else driving…for sure.
Brilliant adventure all inclusive of the stunning scenery, the (oops) overnight stay, the harrowing rescue and the hairpin turns. What a time the two of you have enjoyed! I saw too that you’re on your way home. Continued safe travels. It always feels good to go home for a bit before the next adventure, doesn’t it?
Patti, the scenery in Norway was really outstandingly beautiful and particularly this area was one of my favorites. We are now home and enjoying reconnecting with family and friends, it does feel great. I will have another couple of posts on Norway before we travel again.
Trollstigen is an exhilarating part of western Norway, dramatic and beautiful. It sounds like you go more than usual share of drama during this visit. Good to read that it ended well after all.
Otto, Norway has many exhilarating and dramatic roads. In this region we certainly got plenty of drama and not just from the twisting Trollstigen. We never expected to witness a mountain rescue and in particular one that it turned out to be a success…to our great relief. Sounds like you had a very successful photography trip to Bolivia…I will look forward to your future posts.
Thanks, Gilde. Yes, Bolivia was great in many different ways.
I think I would be overcome with emotions as well Gilda. I’m relieved to hear that he was recused. We often see selfie takers (young and old) rushing,climbing and pushing and shoving to get that “perfect” shot. Even with all the stories out there of people falling to their deaths, people continue to take a risk. But for what really? Likes on IG? So sad really. Your adventure was visually thrilling to follow. Now about the handle breaking incident… I’m thinking I will NOT be picking a fight with you anytime soon :).
Lissette, we felt very relieved when he was found alive…we did not have much hope for a positive outcome, it was a very cold night. Later on we talked about this event and thought how terrifying it must have been for him, he was experiencing the worst night of his life, so near our van and yet we had no idea…we were not able to offer any help. The rescue team were fantastic. Indeed very sad about the Instagram madness of people who end up killing themselves for the ultimate photograph. Definitely not worth it. The handle breaking incident was a bit annoying…I think I would loose on a fight with you Lissette hahaha.