Enigmatic Tomar and Cultural Coimbra

Leaving the Sanctuary of Fátima behind we found ourselves heading towards the small town of Tomar (or Thomar in English). We had not heard much about this town before our visit, but it was enthusiastically recommended to us by someone we have met on our travels in Spain. The driving there from Fátima was mostly quite dull, flat, through small towns and some industrial areas. We were kept entertained by the many sights of pilgrims and their heavy backpacks walking at the side of the busy main road, making their way towards the Sanctuary of Our Lady Of Fátima whist we were going on the opposite direction.

Tomar

A small town with a rich and long history of influence and power, and on arrival at the town just cast your eyes up towards the Convento de Cristo…you can’t miss it.

Can you spot the Convent of Christ on the hill top?

This amazing religious complex enclosed within the 12th Century Castle walls can be seen looming above the town, and is regarded as one of Portugal’s finest National Monuments and an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983. It was founded in 1160 by Gualdim Pais, grand master of the Knights Templar.

For such a small town Tomar has surprised us. Plenty of myths and mystery involving the enigmatic and legendary order of the Knights Templar who for centuries have had their headquarters at the Convent of Christ, which stands on the hill top protected by the walls of the Castle of Tomar.

Henry the Navigator who was made governor of the Knights Templar order is believed to have used the order’s resources and knowledge to fund many of the voyages to Africa and other parts of the world during the Age of Discovery.

A visit to the Convent of Christ was our main reason for visiting Tomar and in doing so to better understand enigmatic Tomar and its extraordinary history.

We walked from our very central and free motorhome Aire (GPS N39.6079 W8.4103) all the way up the steep hill above the town, for a tour of the Convento de Cristo. Upon arrival we joined a small queue to buy our entrance ticket, but were soon told that the computer system was down and so we could enter for free…can’t complain about that.

A very impressive place indeed, where we spent a few happy hours exploring all the little nooks and crannies…there was lots to see.

Inside it is also impressive

One of the courtyards of the Convent of Christ.

Dinning area…if these walls could talk

The fascinating 12th century “rotunda” Romanesque round church inside alone is reason enough to visit this building, the interior is beautifully decorated with late Gothic and Manueline sculptures and paintings.

Oratory of the Templars, influenced by Jerusalem’s Holy Sepulchre Rotunda.

In 1356, the Convent became the home of the Order of Christ (former Knights Templar) in Portugal and the sumptuous rotunda’s decorations reflect the Order’s wealth.

After all our exploring, we sat outside at one of the convent’s courtyards, now a coffee shop for a rest with a drink and a cake, trying to imagine what life was like in this incredible building many centuries ago.

From the Convent of Christ we walked down into Tomar’s Historic Centre, which was charming and also very interesting.

Tomar historic centre, check out the black and white tiles.

Tomar is another easy day trip from Lisbon, one that we would strongly recommend. One day should be enough to explore this town, but stay overnight if you have the time.

Not far from Tomar, at just one hours drive away down the road we found the neighbouring city of Coimbra, home to the oldest University in Portugal and one of the oldest in the world. We did not have far to travel and again  found a free Aire for our overnight stay, at a very convenient location just a short walk into the heart of Coimbra.

Coimbra

Spreading upwards from the Rio Mondego, it is a city with plenty of old world charm providing the visitor with interesting cultural sites, a vibrant student population, its own version of Fado and plenty of good restaurants offering delicious Portuguese food and wine.

Coimbra was the second capital of Portugal (after Guimarães), it remained the capital for over 100 years from 1131 to 1255, although now the capital is Lisbon.

Coimbra is a very hilly city

Home to Portugal’s oldest and most prestigious University, founded in Lisbon in 1290 it moved permanently to Coimbra in 1537. Coimbra University’s historical buildings have been declared UNESCO world Heritage site in 2012. Visiting the University grounds, buildings and in particularly the Juanina Library is in everyone’s wish list when visiting this city… It certainly was on ours.

Sitting high up overlooking the Mondego River, it has an incredible location for a University. The main building is set around an open courtyard with the University Tower sprouting out amid the other old buildings and the statue of King João III as a centre courtyard piece.

Coimbra University with the clock tower

The Baroque library is stunning, in its collection there are books from 16th to the 18th century. This is no ordinary library and visiting it alone is worth a trip to Coimbra. Underneath the library the Academic Prison is another interesting if rather strange place to visit.

We entered this room and waited here before being allowed into the Baroque Juanina Library…no photos allowed in the next room.

Sadly pictures inside the Baroque library were not allowed, but perhaps even better so we just had to put our cameras down and marvel at this exquisite place.

Coimbra is very steep, so make sure to wear comfortable walking shoes, when visiting. The University is high up on the hills, I nearly keeled over by the time we got there. But it was worth it, there is lots to explore. The old buildings come alive with the young student crowd and there was a lovely vibrant, cool vibe about the place.

Students of Coimbra University

We saw many of the University students strutting around wrapped in their black cloaks…looking like just out of a Harry Potter film set.
Some of the students were celebrating the end of their University year, curious about what the fuss was all about, I spoke briefly to an Economics student who told me that they were feeling in a party mood following the handing over of their final written projects for the year.

Sadly we were in Coimbra just few days short of one of the students biggest festival which lasts for 8 days, called “Queima das Fitas” (The Burning of the Ribbons”) it takes place at the end of the second semester (usually in the beginning of May) and it is one of the biggest student parties in all of Europe.

Included in our ticket to visit some of the University buildings, the chapel, the Juanina Library we were also able to visit the Science Museum which houses one of the most important historical science collections in Europe.

Coimbra Science Museum

We also enjoyed looking around the historic centre, the main pedestrianized area and eating at an authentic Portuguese restaurant.

There is plenty to keep visitors busy in Coimbra for few days, sadly we only stayed one night parked at the free Aire (GPS N40.19928 W8.42910). Being on a train line between Lisbon and Porto it can be an easy stop over for a night or two. We really enjoyed our visit and would recommend it as part of any Central Portugal trip.