Luang Prabang-Ancient Asia Meets French Colonial
Luang Prabang has often been described as enigmatic, spiritual, and sophisticated. The former Laos Royal capital is certainly no ordinary town. This UNESCO protected gem of a place grabbed our hearts from the minute we stepped out of our two-day slow boat trip down the Mekong River. There is a unique vibe here which is difficult to describe or even pinpoint, it goes far beyond any mediocre description. A romantic place, offering a seamless blend of ancient Asian flavors, religion, and cultural heritage, fused with French colonial influences.
Surrounded by lush green mountains, Luang Prabang is strategically positioned at the confluence of the Mekong and the Nam Khan River, the narrow peninsula is like a long finger pointing out into the river waters. The name means ” City of the Golden Buddha Phra Bang”. Luang Prabang takes its name from a statue of Buddha, the Prabang, offered by Cambodia.
This city is a hub of Laotian Buddhism, with its many gilded pagodas ( also known as vat or wat) and an army of orange-robbed monks strolling along its streets. For the soul-searching visitor, looking for calm and contemplation there might be better places to be, but one can’t deny its charm. It is visited by most of the travelers who, like us are doing the “banana pancake trail”, but to us, it certainly did not feel too tourist trodden or lacking in authenticity.
This town has so far resisted the kind of rapid change found elsewhere in Asia, despite its popularity with backpackers, ex-pats, retirees, and Chinese tour groups, it has kept itself free from over-commercialism. It is compact and easy to explore on foot.
We were only able to stay 4 nights and after two languid days relaxing on our Mekong river cruise, we were not feeling the urge to be cramming in a lot of sightseeing, but rather enjoy it at our own pace. Here are some of the things we learned and enjoyed about this much-loved town:
Indo-Chinese French Villas and Ornate Buddhist Temples
Laos came under French rule between 1893 and 1953 and was integrated into French-Indochina, the French colonial territories in South East Asia. The protectorate of Luang Phrabang was nominally under the rule of its King, but the real power lay with a local French Governor-General until the Kingdom of Laos was granted full independence in 1953. The French eventually left, but their legacy stayed behind. Leaving their mark, particularly in the unique architecture design in which traditional Lao wooden structures fused with European Colonial styles.
Luang Prabang has been UNESCO protected since 1995, all new buildings will have to maintain the character of the area.
We really enjoyed wandering around the town appreciating the stylish buildings hidden among lush vegetation. Refreshingly, there are no highrise buildings. In the late 1800s, the French contracted some very skilled builders to develop and build the new architectural fusion of wood and brick two stores, high ceiling, wide wooden balcony villas, decorated with teak and rosewood furniture seen around the town today.
Scattered amid the grandiose French Indochine designs are the omnipresent golden temples. Known as the spiritual capital of Laos, there is no shortage of temples in this town. Many will not charge any admission fee, but you might want to leave a donation.
The Royal Palace, now a museum showcases the particularly striking Lao-French architectural fusion.
Wat Mai Temple adjacent to the night market, shimmering at night.
The amazing pagodas represent well the typical Lao art and craft technique with a dash of polished sophistication. There are over 30 temples in Luang Prabang, beautifully decorated with engravings, sculptures, paintings, and gilded spires. When visiting the temples, make sure to dress appropriately by covering shoulders and knees. Remember to remove your shoes before entry to the temple. Photography might not be allowed inside some of the temples, but there will be signs if that is the case.
Wat Xieng Thong is the most visited temple in Luang Prabang.
The most celebrated Monastery is Wat Xieng Thong ( Temple of the golden city), it dates from the 16th century, comprising an ensemble of complex structures not found in any of the other local pagodas, it is considered one of the grandest. Built between 1559-1560 by King Setthathirath. We took our time to explore it one early morning since there are lots to see.
Wat Sensoukharam built-in 1718 by Chao Ta Rang during the reign of the king Kitsarath.
The temples are located within a walkable area, we visited a few just by wandering around town. They usually open between 8 am and 5 pm, many are free to enter.
Mount Phousi
Strolling around town, one evening brought us to the bottom of a steepish 329-steps staircase leading to a 24m gilded stupa overlooking the town. The steps leading up are just opposite the night market. There is a small admission fee to pay, halfway up the hill. There are great views from the top, and coming here for sunset is very popular so don’t expect to have it to yourself.
Views from Mount Phousi
Views of Luang Prabang from Mount Phousi
There is also a Buddhist Temple at the top of Mount Phousi, Wat Tham Phu Si. This is the highest point in town providing a great 360-degree view and the best place to be for a stunning sunset or sunrise. Be prepared to climb a few steps, but the view is definitely worth it. We ended up chatting for some time to a Brazilian guy who was traveling in SE Asia alone, going in the opposite direction to us. Once the sunset was over, we returned to the town below to explore the night market.
Lantern Lit Night-Market
The Market is set up along Sisavangvong Road every night, which is free from traffic between 5 pm and 11 pm. Under a dreamy dim light, the night market comes to life in all its exuberance. We walked through it most nights, browsing the many stalls where hill-tribe women were crouching over their colorful handmade crafts, patchwork blankets, stuffed elephants, and traditional garments. Haggling is not only permitted, but also encouraged. Not for the first or even last time, we lamented our lack of luggage room for souvenirs, there were so many great articles that would have been lovely to take home with us.
The night market is just starting to open up in the early evening, with the stalls selling colorful handmade crafts.
At a nearby side street, steaming on a coal fire, bowls of Fer (a broth noodle soup dish, topped with green herbs and meat) fill the air with the aromatic smells. There are also spring rolls, dumplings, grilled fish being sold on small carts by the side of the road or inside modest family restaurants with plastic chairs. You don’t have to walk far to find the street food here, either at night or during the daytime, when a morning market is also set up in this area.
We ate our own weight worth of these coconut pancakes cooked on a hot griddle.
We particularly loved grabbing some coconut pancakes as we walked around the market, cooked on a griddle they were hot and delicious.
Lao Cuisine
Lao has a flowery, spicy cuisine, with well-balanced ingredient combinations unique to the region. There are European influences as well as flavors from other Indo-Chinese neighboring countries. It is a great place for doing a cooking class and although we did not partake, thinking back now I wish we had. We did have some memorable meals though, and not always just due to memorable food.
Bouang Asian Eatery – Situated on the main road, this place had a great vibe with artsy interior decorations. The service was friendly, the music soft and the food looked and tasted delicious. It is a small place, therefore finding a table might not always be very easy, we lucked out, but as we were being served a waiting queue soon formed outside.
Tamarind – On the banks of the Nam Khan river, we enjoyed a romantic candlelit dinner here in one of their outdoor tables (it is a popular place, so we booked a table the day before). We opted to share a sampling plater with some scrumptious authentic Lao dishes. The wine was also very good.
After our meal, we decided to go for a cocktail at the Icon Klub – described by Lonely Planet as “imagine a place in the afterlife where writers meet and conversation flows freely as the fabulous mixology cocktails”. Well…the conversation did flow freely, but not with writers and free thinkers, but rather with a drunk Irishman from Dublin who decided to adopt us and parked himself at the barstool next to me.
The best conversation we had though was with the bar owner, a lovely Hungarian lady who has been a cocktail mixologist here for over 20 years. She made a delicious and potent Brazilian “caipirinha” for me.
After a couple of cocktails, we made our way back to our hotel to find that a loud Chinese family had moved into the room next door.
Dyen Sabai – We had to cross a bamboo bridge (only here during the dry season) over the Nam Khan River for our evening meal. Just before crossing the bridge, we stopped to buy our bridge crossing ticket (toll of 7000 Kip return) and we heard a Brazilian couple having a “domestic”, not sure what they were fighting about, but we noticed that she was rather angry with him…
We had to cross this very rustic bamboo bridge for our dinner…sorry, blurry photo.
We decided to let them go ahead and lingered for a bit taking photos of the rickety bamboo bridge, which is rebuilt every year during the dry season and taken apart during the rainy season. Crossing it at night was a little bit nerve-wracking, but very atmospheric.
Arriving at the restaurant on the other side of the river, we were asked whether we would mind sharing a table with others since the restaurant was very busy.
Happy with that option, we were taken to a cozy area with colorful cushions on the floor and a low table overlooking the river. As we sat down we immediately recognize the arguing Brazilian couple from the bridge…luckily they had already made it up and we had a great night of sharing stories and a laugh.
We were later on joined by another 3 girls ( A+E nurses from the UK) who were backpacking their way to Australia, where nursing jobs awaited for them.
Utopia – with a name such as Utopia, expectations were high. We visited this lush riverside place twice for lunch. It had a hippie vibe, with lots of nooks and crannies, riverside cozy areas including a wooden terrace with thin mattresses and cushions on the floor overlooking the river. Apparently It can get quite busy, but it was not too bad when we visited, there were plenty of options for places to enjoy some food, drinking, and lounging.
Utopia did not disapoint…but I wonder how often they wash those cushions?
The food was also delicious with vegan and vegetarian options on the menu ( although prices were a little higher than in some other places). There was chilled music, providing an altogether great place to laze out for the afternoon. Apparently this place really livens up after 8 pm with great music, cocktails, and quiz nights. It does close promptly at 11 pm following the country’s strict curfew laws. We only visited during the day.
Learning about Laos brutal history at the UXO Visitor Centre
After lazying out at “Utopia” for a few hours, it was back to reality with a bang.
One of the most important things about traveling and visiting other countries is to learn about its history. When visiting this region of Laos, one must not shy away from learning about its brutal past. We decided that a visit to the UXO- Visitor Centre, was very important. The museum is small but very informative. It is free to visit, but leaving a donation is a good way to contribute towards the great work that it does. Alternatively, you can buy a souvenir so we bought a T-shirt for Brian there.
After six decades of colonization by France, and a brief occupation by the Japanese during WWII, Laos won independence in 1953. But peace did not last long since and in 1958 the North Vietnamese invaded the country to create the Ho Chi Minh trail, during the Vietnam War. The trail was set up by Nothern Vietnamese forces to keep open the supply lines to the troops in the South and into Cambodia and Southern Vietnam.
Keen to close down these supply lines, Laos was subject to attacks by both the US and the Vietnamese Army.
The US dropped something like 280 million cluster munitions onto Laos, despite the fact that Laos and the US were never “officially” at war. This “secret war” raged from 1964 until 1973 tearing the country apart and making it one of the world’s most heavily bombed countries (per capita). With the equivalent of a plane-load of bombs being dropped every eight minutes for nine years.
“Bombies” are small cluster bombs.
Unexploded Ordnance – UXO – Visitor Centre.
About a third of all the bombs dropped by the US didn’t detonate. These UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) are still scattered around the countryside with the potential to kill or cause harm to many people, particularly farmers working the land and children who might find them and not realize how lethal they are. The most dangerous of these are “bombies”, which to kids look like a little ball to play with. Many people die every year or are harmed by UXO in Laos, and there are many areas that are yet to be cleared before people can safely inhabit the land.
There is currently great effort going on to help clear the land and also to educate local people about the danger of UXOs. The Lao program is not well funded and although, since Obama visited in 2016, the US has pledged about 90 million USD towards the program, it is far from enough. Laos needs all the help it can get since it is going to take a very long time and a great deal of effort and collaboration to sort this huge problem.
Big Brother Mouse
Next door to our hotel, there was this great non-profit organization, called Big Brother Mouse. We volunteered our English conversation skills here one morning since they love a chance to practice talking in English. No special training is needed and they don’t mind people speaking English with an accent, like myself. I even ended up teaching then to speak some Portuguese words since they were so eager to learn about my home country of Brazil. They were very keen to practice and learn new English words. It was great fun for us since we were able to ask them lots of questions about themselves, including about what it was like to be a young novice monk living in a monastery away from their families. Many of them aspired to go to University in the future, and some talked about trying to get scholarships to study abroad.
Chatting to these guys was one of our favorite things to do in Luang Prabang.
Big Brother Mouse.
We found that they all spoke really good English and we were able to talk about lots of different topics. I started off with just one pupil and ended up surrounded by many more.
The organization focuses mostly on publishing books and improving literacy in Laos, particularly in rural areas. Books are scarce in Laos and people don’t usually read books for pleasure. This organization wants to change literacy in Laos, publishing books that are fun to read and therefore increasing literacy.
In 2016 they received the YBBY – Asahi Reading Promotion Award from the International Board on Books for Young People, recognizing their efforts for over ten years of innovative work to get children excited about books.
Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls and Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre.
We arranged a visit to Kuang Si Waterfall via our guest house. A tuk-tuk picked us up at about 9 am one morning, along with another six people, and drove us for about 40 minutes, 29 Km South of Luang Prabang to an idyllic jungle-like area. We arrived there at around 10 am and the driver instructed us that the return journey would be at 1 pm.
We walked up to the park entrance and followed the signs to the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre, which is just before the Kuang Si Waterfalls. It was breakfast time for the bears and we watched them frolicking and playing with each other. They are usually most active at dawn and dusk.
We watched them playing from a very close footbridge.
The center caters specifically for the Asian Black Bear also known as Moon Bear. Many face the risk of extinction due to the loss of habitat, but also because of human exploitation. Bear bile is a traditional ingredient in Asian medicine and is extracted from living Moon Bears that are caught in the wild and kept in very cramped conditions. A metal catheter is inserted into their gall bladders for collecting the bile.
We made a donation and I also got a “Free The Bears” T-shirt here, all for a very good cause. The Sanctuary provides valuable training, employment opportunities, and alternative livelihoods to local villagers, destined to become Lao’s future wildlife warriors.
From the Asian Black Bear Sanctuary, we made our way to the stunning Kuang Si Waterfalls via the well-maintained walkway and bridges through the tropical forest.
It is possible to swim in some of these pools, but the water is very cold.
The main large waterfall of pale turquoise-blue water, tumbling down from the lush tropical jungle above it into the cool limestone tiered pools below, was simply stunning. It almost looked like a tropical painting. It is possible to swim in some of the pools, but take note of the signs saying “no swimming” in certain areas. There are changing rooms and WC near the picnic area.
The tiered waterfall is simply stunning
Wanting to explore further we followed some steps up (left of the main wooden footbridge) hiking for about 20 minutes, to some other more “hidden” parts of the waterfalls and some jungle views. There is also a more secluded and less busy pool at the top, and there were some people swimming there.
After a 20 minutes hike up, we arrived here.
The steps up are steep in places and to be honest, we did not think it was worth the extra effort. The main waterfall and lower pools around the picnic area are the most stunning in our opinion. If we visited again, we would spend more time in that area, rather than hike further up.
In spite of being a busy tourist place, we really enjoyed our visit. I would recommend coming early in the morning. The park opens at 8 am until 5:30 pm, the entrance fee was about 20 000 Kip (2.5 USD) when we visited in late January 2020. We arrived here at around 10 am, but I think earlier would have been better as when we left at around 1 pm it was starting to get very busy. We arranged our transport via the hotel, but it is just as easy to hire your own tuk-tuk or songtaew so as to give you more flexibility (although it might cost a little bit more if not sharing it with others).
Food and drink stalls by the park entrance.
There is a variety of food and drink stalls just outside the park, by the parking area. We bought a delicious freshly made fruit shake in one of the stalls, but we had to wait a bit to be served since the electricity went down for a few minutes.
Tips for visiting Luang Prabang in Laos
This place is one of the most popular destinations in Laos and it is for good reason. This pretty town in Northern Laos has a lot to offer. We stayed for 4 nights but we could have easily stayed a lot longer, but because we were just at the start of our journey through Laos and then Cambodia and Vietnam, sadly we had to move on.
We visited at the end of January 2020, during high season, the temperature was a pleasant 26 C during day time, falling to around 20 C in the night time.
Hotel – Budget hotel prices vary between 15 to 20 USD (hostel beds in dormitories can be from 5 to 10 USD), a hotel with a swimming pool can set you back 50+ USD per night. This town was the only place during our 10 weeks backpacking trip that we could not get into our first accommodation option and had to settle for a less desirable place. Therefore booking a few days in advance might be a good idea. We booked all our hotels in Laos via Booking.com, but Agoda and Airbnb are also popular.
Food and Drink – There are many excellent bars and restaurants in town, we paid an average of 20 USD for two for some great evening meals at the above-described restaurants. But there are many much cheaper options, the night market, for example, you can get a meal for about 3 USD. Local food is always cheaper, Western restaurants will charge a lot more.
How to get around – We walked everywhere, occasionally we used tuk-tuks (agree on a price before you get on), also renting a bicycle is easy and very cheap. There are scooters for rental but do watch out for scams.
The locals love their scooters, but we got around mostly by foot.
Best time to go – From November to May the weather is consistently dry and warm, the average temperature is about 25 degrees C coming down to around 18 degrees C at night, it is also the most popular time and prices are a little higher than during the low season. From March to May it can get more humid and hot. The rainy season is from June to October, hotel prices will be a lot cheaper then.
Safety – Luang Prabang is a very safe place to visit, but take the same precautions as you would normally, when visiting most places.
Mobile Phone – We bought a SIM card to use during our travels in Laos.
Money– There are lots of ATMs in town, some might charge a commission.
Coronavirus Update – January 25th, 2020
As we traveled through Laos we kept an eye on the news regarding the outbreak of Coronavirus. On January 25th, as we were leaving Luang Prabang going Southwards, we heard that more than 1, 320 cases had been confirmed worldwide including Europe, with 3 confirmed cases in France ( but most cases were in China with 1, 297 confirmed cases and 41 deaths).
The US was beginning to evacuate its citizens from Wuhan, the epicenter of the coronavirus outbreak. Liang Wudong, the 62 years old doctor who first raised concerns about this new virus had died with COVID-19 in Wuhan, where he had been treating many patients with this respiratory disease.
There have been no reported cases of coronavirus in Laos at this stage of our travels. The World Health Organization’s (WHO) assessment of the risk was very high in China, but just high globally. WHO was not recommending any specific health measure for travelers. We kept our travel plans unchanged and carried on through Laos.
We loved our stay in Luang Prabang, Laos, but it is goodbye from us.
This pretty, bite-size town is a winner in my book and a definite stop on any travel itinerary in SE Asia. This place oozes charm and character, I wonder who could possibly not fall in love with this world-class place. We left Luang Prabang early morning on Saturday, 25th of January 2020 on a “VIP” bus to Vang Vieng, our VIP bus turned out to be not quite what we expected, but that is a story for another day.
Another fascinating post Gilda – Luang Prabang sound a charming place and not somewhere I’d heard of before thanks for sharing 🙂
Rosemay, I am glad to be introducing you to somewhere new, that you haven’t heard much about before. I think Laos in general is not as well known as some of its neighboring countries of Thailand and Vietnam, but perhaps that is why it has kept its authentic charm. Luang Prabang is a gem of a place, so stylish, elegant, alluring and yet it has kept its small town vibe. We loved it 🙂
Gilda, we truly loved our time in LP and your post is like a trip back. I remember the exact buildings you photograph, the markets, and restaurants you describe. It’s wonderful that the town maintains the small-village feel, and honestly, I’m not sure how they do it. The mix of Asian and French Colonial is so unique and memorable. For us, it’s up there on the Super Special List of favorite places and experiences, and it has such a wonderful vibe I’m almost afraid to tell people about it for fear of popularizing it. I so enjoyed reading this post and seeing your photos. Thanks. ~James
James, how lovely to hear that you and Terri have loved LP as much as we did. I am glad to have given you a trip down memory lane. The small-village feel is still there and yet it has a lot to offer, such as world class cuisine, beautiful French Colonial architecture and the nearby adventure trails and waterfalls. I totally agree that one almost feels guilty about singing its praise, since it would be a great shame if it got over commercialized and spoiled. Take care James.
I’ve wanted to visit Luang Prabang since I first read about it and thanks to you and your beautiful photos (I especially loved the Kuang Si Waterfalls pics) I feel like I’ve had a mini-visit for now. It sounds fascinating and a place where you could easily spend a few weeks. While I was in Siem Reap, Cambodia, in 2018, I visited the Cambodia Landmine Museum and learned that, like Laos, Cambodia has thousands of unexploded landmines scattered around its countryside. I came across an article recently about how bomb sniffing rats (Gambian pouch rats) are being trained to sniff out the unexploded ordinance in Cambodia (they even put them on leashes) and their noses are much more sensitive than a dog. One of the biggest advantages also is that they are so light they don’t inadvertently trigger an explosion. I’m looking forward to reading more about your travels in this area. Keep well, Anita
Anita, I am glad to have given you a “mini-trip” via this post. I think you would love Luang Prabang, definitely a place we could have spent a lot longer than the meager 4 days we’ve allocated. Aren’t those bomb sniffing rats amazing? We also visited the APOPO in Siem Reap, Cambodia and we could not believe how clever and incredible the African rats were. It was shocking for us to discover the tragic history of this area, regarding the UXO (unexploded Ordinance) and how it will continue to affect the people for many years to come. In Vientiane, Capital of Laos we visited COPE Visitor Center and learned about their work with providing artificial limbs, walking aids etc for the adults and children who have lost limbs due to unexploded landmines. I really think the US should commit a lot more money to help clear up this mess. I hope you will make to Luang Prabang and fall in love with this town also.
Wow, you did manage to do a lot in those four days in the capital. Laos is a fascinating place. Great shots and experiences. I’d love to go back one day. Its past is indeed extremely brutal, unfortunate, and certainly unlucky! When I backpacked in SE Asia, I would collect souvenirs in my pack and sent a package home every few months… Without a home that is now impossible. 🙂
I had no idea you had Brazilian roots, Gilda!
Liesbet, this visit to LP was relaxing, but at the same time we did manage to see and experience quite a lot. We were sad to leave and felt that we could have spent a lot longer there, but with only 10 weeks to travel a large area in SE Asia and still so much to explore we had to move on. Good idea about collecting the souvenirs and send them home eventually, in many ways I wish we had done that, since there are so many beautiful and unique crafts in this region. It is also important to spend some money in the local economy, there are so many struggling artists here. We did buy some lovely drawings and art work later on in Cambodia and Vietnam, but I guess Laos was at the very start of our travels and we were a bit more reluctant. Yes, I am Brazilian. I was born in the deep South of Brazil, Gauchos land 🙂
Wow! Another great post. Adding this info to our list. Lovely photos especially the profile pic. Thanks!
Thank you guys!! There are some places that really pull at your heart strings…LP was such a place. We don’t often wish to return to places we have visited (simply because there are so many other exciting places to see), but I could easily see ourselves back there in the future.
Gilda this post brought back so many wonderful memories. We loved Luang Prabang so much that we stayed a whole month. Ben would happily have stayed longer, but I was restless to move on at that point. There is such a wonderful laid back vibe there and we also enjoyed the food, especially great at Tamarind yes! and we LOVED the night market! There were so many quality artisanal products there… very special.
You managed to see and do a lot in four days! Fabulous that you even got to volunteer some of your time. Those waterfalls are so spectacular although very cold. There is also a lovely butterfly garden just before the waterfalls… definitely worth seeing if one has the time.
The history of Laos is absolutely heart breaking. And more so because of how the problem of unexploded bombs still remains today. Tragic.
Thanks for a great post.
Peta
Peta, I remember reading your very interesting post on LP and how much you guys enjoyed it there. I can totally understand why you would stay for a whole month there, it is a place that makes you want to linger for longer. We only stayed 4 days and felt sad to move on, but I guess we will have to go back there one day. I would like to see the butterfly garden next time. Isn’t the night market incredible? One of the best we have seen during our travels in SE Asia. Really good quality arts and crafts, all hand made and reasonably priced. I cried at the sad history of this area, but I do think it is so important to learn about it. Travelling brings you immense happiness, but at times also despair at the atrocities you will encounter. I have so loved your recent post about rescuing Esco…fabulous!!!
theres good reason that Luang Prabang is everyone’s favourite spot in Laos! Very thorough post! 🙂
Andy, this town is a gem of a place, and I hope it will always stay unspoiled and charming. Keep well 🙂
I recall some of your photos and stops from following along on social media Gilda. What a fabulous guide you have created for those who will follow in your footsteps when it is safe to do so. i always think your tips section is a fabulous addition. I know it takes extra time but what a help to those using it as a reference.
Sue, thank you. It was hard to write here in this travel blog, whilst we were moving form one place to the next, so I ended up just posting on social media. I am now trying to catch up and write about our journey before it all becomes a bit of a blur. I did keep a small diary, which has been useful now. I hope we can all resume our travels in a not too distant future. Thank you for your lovely comment 🙂
I was mesmerised by this post. City of the Golden Buddha Phra Bang sounds to me like a great place to enjoy so many incredible sites, temples and delicious local food. The Lantern Lit Night Market looks and sounds like something out of a fairy tale. The place called Utopia looked very similar to a place I used to hang out in Dharamkot in India; very chilled, great vegan food, and a little stage set up for musicians to play and sing. I loved the waterfalls too. You look so happy and in your element Traveller Interrupted. Let’s pray you will soon be back on your travels. Thank you for sharing your experiences and this wonderful post.
Val, LP is a place that will forever be in our hearts, there was so much to love about this town. I would really like to visit India in the future, I remember how much you loved your stay in Dharamkot at the Yoga retreat. Brian and I are suffering with “wanderlust frustration” right now. but I guess it is the same for everyone else. We can’t really complain since we live in a beautiful area and we are making the most of that. Stay well my friend 🙂
Thanks for the virtual tour of Luang Prabang. The architecture rocks! It seems so serene, but ‘m sure at the height of tourism, it must be a madhouse so to speak. Oh my goodness, I would have eaten my weight and then some in coconut pancakes too. It sounds divine. It must make you feel good to volunteer and help the locals in any way possible. I also like the fact that you mentioned that travel sometimes involves learning about the brutal history. That was one of the things l brought away from Berlin. They have not sugar coated their past, unlike some.. ahem..countries :-). If l were to travel to Vietnam, it would strictly be for the food though…haha! I am enjoying traveling through you and Brian for sure.
You are welcome Kemkem. We visited LP during high season and although it was busy (compared to some other Laotian towns), it was not as busy as some other cities in SE Asia. I think a lot of people don’t include Laos on their SE Asia itinerary, opting instead to visit more popular countries like Thailand and Vietnam, hence why it has remained such an unspoiled place. The architecture is gorgeous and the food delicious, two very good reasons to visit, for sure. Agree that learning about the history is so important, even if the brutality of it leaves you feeling very sad indeed. No point on sugar coating the past, the people who have suffered and perished deserve being heard and never forgotten.
You always seem to have done your research really well, Gilda, leading to interesting activities that many would miss. Had you read about spending time with the students in advance? Such a well-rounded experience! The temples look wonderful but I liked that wobbly bridge and the couple who’d stopped arguing. 🙂 🙂
Jo, I find that doing the research before hand can really pay off. During this trip we also got lots of tips from other travelers that we met on the road. I did hear about the Big Brother Mouse from another blogger and it became something I really wanted to do. Somehow we ended up staying at a hotel right next door to their premises, making it very easy for us to volunteer there. The couple on the bridge caught my attention when I realized they were arguing in Portuguese (being Brazilian I can speak Portuguese). I felt like I was snooping on them, so I stayed behind allowing them to go ahead…imagine my surprise when we all end up at the same table in the restaurant. Luckily it was not too awkward 🙂
Great reading your post Gilda. Lissette and I went to LP many, many years ago and were actually a bit disappointed at the time – not with anything we saw but because of the number of tourists that were inundating the town. We weren’t lucky either with the weather which I think affected our appreciation.
But reading your post I’d love to go back one day. We never did see the waterfall or the bears. And I think that it’s great that you spoke to the monks.
And personal experiences always make a trip great. Sounds like you met some nice people along the way.
Looking at the photos of Mount Phousi and the night market and remember walking in exactly the same places. But your photos a lot better – we were there in 2008 with a shitty little pocket camera…
Anyway, enjoyed the post and would like a re-do on our 1st visit.
Frank, I am glad I have convinced you to give LP another chance. Totally agree that good weather makes all the difference on how you appreciate a place. We were so lucky with our 10 weeks of backpacking, the weather was fantastic, not many super hot/humid days and very little rain. We thoroughly enjoyed meeting and talking to the monks, they were just as interested about us as we were about them. I have recently read your guide on travelling in Laos, really enjoyed it.
Luang Prabang looks like a city worthwhile visiting. Lots of history and culture. I have not tasted Lao Cuisine., but plenty of Thai and Vietnamese – which I love. Is there a big difference?
Otto, LP is a real gem of a place. It was our favorite city in Laos, although it is more touristic than some of the other places we visited in Laos, it has an amazing vibe and so much to offer. Lao cuisine is spicy like the Thai, with strong flavors. It tends to be served with sticky rice, rather than white rice like in Thailand. The two cuisines do overlap quite a bit, but there are some very distinctive dishes. I think Vietnamese food is the more mild of them all, spices are often on the side and people can add if they wish. We loved them all and we really did eat mostly the local cuisine everywhere were visited. Luckily we did not get any stomach problems.