Melting In Mexico

Brian and I arrived in Mexico’s Cancun Airport following a short, five-hour flight from Lima, Peru. After feeling cold in Peru for most of our three weeks adventure there, we were looking forward to the promise of warm and sunny days in the Mexican Riviera. We based ourselves at a lovely two bedroom Airbnb apartment in Playa Del Carmem, with plenty of room for us and our daughter who would be joining us for a well-earned break a few days after our arrival.

The Yucatan Peninsula is a large area of the Mexican Riviera, comprising the states of Yucatan, Campeche, Quintana Roo and Tabasco. We chose to stay at Playa Del Carmem because of its fun beach town vibe, and although smaller and less touristic than Cancun we felt it would offer more than staying at one of the typical all-inclusive resorts.  It is a very pedestrian-friendly place, laid out in a grid-like system that makes exploring on foot very easy. The famous 5th Avenue/ Quinta Avenida is a pedestrian-only avenue lined with shops, beach bars and restaurants; perfect for people watching.

Our first few days were very relaxing, we wanted to rest after our fast-paced travels in Peru, but also the heat and humidity made us feel a little sluggish and like we were slowly “melting” alway. Perhaps July is not the best time to visit this area. In fact, we were warned by friends who have been before, that it was going to be hot, hot, hot…and so it was, with withering humidity.

The more energetic time started when our daughter Chloe joined us, and here are some of the things we got up to:

Swimming with Whale Sharks

Whale Shark… up close and personal

You can see how the water is full of plankton, the reason these huge filter-feeders congregate here

These slightly intimidating “monsters” are huge. In fact, they are not whales but rather they are the largest fish in the ocean and can grow to the size of a bus. Swimming alongside these creatures was mind-blowing and a major bucket list experience for us. They are in this area from mid-May to mid-September when a sighting is almost guaranteed. The warm ocean and abundance of their favourite food, plankton, are what brings them here for few months to feed and mate. Luckily for us, these giants are very docile and jumping in the water to swim with them will not cost you your life.

We chose to take a tour leaving from Playa-Del- Carmem with a small group of us in a minivan and then onto a small boat. All snorkelling and life jackets were provided, also drinks and food.

We travelled by boat for over an hour to reach the site. On arrival, we could see many other tour boats circling the area, but all well spaced out. There were also many huge, beautiful Whale Sharks swimming along just under the surface, with huge dorsal fins well out of the water and with their enormous bucket like mouths wide open taking in a feast of plankton. We were told that we would be jumping in the water in pairs with a guide. Each pair were given three attempts at swimming alongside the Whale Sharks. I jumped first with another girl plus our guide, we were both nervous whilst waiting for the signal to jump in the water.

It all happens very fast, but it was a very successful first attempt, we got to see our “huge monster” from a close enough range and it was absolutely incredible. Brian and Chloe jumped next and both come back to the boat exhilarated with their encounter. We all had two more opportunities for close encounters and a swim alongside these incredible creatures. Each encounter only lasted a few minutes as despite looking as if they are hardly moving their huge tails, they glide along seemingly effortlessly but still faster than we could swim. Short but incredibly memorable.

If you fancy this type of tour, I would recommend a stay over at Isla Mulheres or Isla Holbox and book the tour from there if possible, since tours leaving from there would mean a shorter and a more pleasant boat ride over to the site where they usually hang out. Also be aware of all the extra charges that some tour companies add to the initial price they give you to lure you in. And make sure to go with a tour company that takes the wellbeing of these sea creatures very seriously, for their sake keep your distance and never try to touch them or swim too close.

Visiting the Mayan Ruins of Tulum and Coba

We chose a tour leaving from Playa Del Carmem to visit both Tulum and Coba on the same day. It was another hot and humid day, but our small bus had air conditioning, giving us a chance to cool down between exploring the sites.

Our first stop was at a cenote, which was a bit of disappointment and waste of time; it was not a particularly nice cenote and we did not have enough time to go for a swim. It felt more like a tourist trap than a nice place to visit. If you join one of these tours don’t bother to take your swimming costume, it is not worth it.

Tulum

We soon got on our way to the coastal Mayan ruins of Tulum. Our guide did a good job of explaining all about this ancient site, and in spite of being extremely hot and sticky, we did enjoy learning about how life must have been like for the Mayans in this area. The ruins are impressive and have been built at a beautiful location, right next to the gleaming Caribbean Sea.

The site is compact and easy to explore, with three major structures called “El Castillo”, “Temple of the Frescoes” and “Temple of the Descending God”. It is a very touristic and busy place, and I would recommend visiting it as early as possible in the morning to avoid the crowds and the hot mid-day sun. But it is gorgeous and totally worth a visit.

After exploring the Tulum ruins we stopped for lunch, which was included in the tour. The food was good and gave us a chance to chat with some of our fellow travellers.

Cobba

There is a lot to explore here

Chloe and Brian climbing the Ancient Pyramid

Climbing the Lxmoja pyramid is hard work, but worth every step

A little scary, but worth it

The Mayan Ruins of Coba was our favourite site. We hired bicycles and pedalled through the tropical forest to the largest pyramid called Lxmoja. It is still possible to climb up the 42 meters (138 feet) tall pyramid, and although very steep it is worth climb for the views of the lush green forest and particularly for the fact that it is likely that climbing this ancient site will soon no longer be possible. The number of people climbing it every year has risen and therefore there is greater danger of damaging the Ancient steps.

Most people come here to climb this pyramid, but there are many others to see here, therefore, hiring a bicycle can be a good way of exploring the whole site.

Hiring a bicycle is cheap and easy

Xaibe pyramid

Overall we really enjoyed this tour, although ideally, I would recommend hiring a car to visit these sites independently, giving you more flexibility and a chance to explore these amazing sites at your own pace. It can also be visited using the ADO bus or the “coletivo taxi”, although I am not sure of the frequency of service.

Visiting the Cenotes

Chloe and I enjoyed a girly time at Cenote Azul, near Playa Del Carmem

Cenotes are sinkholes in the limestone bedrock filled with crystal clear fresh water, like an underground river, and this area is famous for them. Some Cenotes are inside caves, others are wide open.

Chloe and I had a girly day at Cenote Azul, complete with a fish spa…the little fish that nibble at the dead skin in your feet are harmless, but it does tickle a little. We sat on a rock by the side of the water with our feet immersed into the cool water enjoying our lush surroundings, chatting and getting our feet nibbled.

Brian was not feeling well, so he stayed home to have a long sleep and relax. We left quite early in the morning, at around 8 am, and had pre-booked a taxi to pick us up. In fact, we used this taxi a lot during our stay in Playa, he was a local man who was very reliable and up-front and not just looking to rip off the tourists.

Going early was a very good idea since it got a lot busier later on. There were lots of people swimming and snorkelling here, and the water is shallow and teeming with colourful fish. It is possible to hire snorkelling equipment here. We enjoyed the peace and quiet of being there earlier on and left at around 2 pm when it started getting a bit too busy.

Make sure to bring mosquito repellent, the mozzies are fierce here.

The Mexican Food

There was no shortage of delicious budget-friendly places to eat in this area. Our Airbnb owner was very good at giving us plenty of recommendations to try.

Our favourite place to have breakfast was just opposite our apartment, and we visited many times for breakfast and once also for an evening meal. For vegetarians and vegans, this place is heaven.

Our favourite place for breakfast, Cafe Choux Choux, literally right across the road from our apartment.

Our favourite dinner was at the gorgeous cave restaurant called Alux. The food was delicious, but the surroundings are what makes this place very special. It is a more upscale restaurant, with prices to match, built inside an underground cave where it makes for a very surreal place to eat. Apparently “Aluxes” are mischevious, but also protective, supernatural spirits.

Chloe and I at the cave restaurant entrance

Eating at this cave restaurant was a memorable experience

After the meal, we went for a little cave exploring

Visiting this area of Mexico has given us a very small taste of what this country is about. We loved the friendly people, learning about the Mayan civilization, beautiful lush landscapes, gorgeous beaches, delicious food. We will return for sure in the future to explore for a lot longer and more in-depth, we would love to visit other areas of this amazing country. But perhaps choosing a time of year when it will be a little cooler and less humid.