Nordkapp At Last, But Where’s The Midnight Sun?
A road trip to Nordkapp in Norway has been on our wish list for many years, we would often talk about it and day dream of watching the midnight sun at this far above the Arctic Circle place. I guess there is something about visiting some far away corners of our Continent that feels very appealing to so many people, including us. Just a few months ago we were spending the night at Portugal’s Cabo de São Vicente which is usually taken as the South-westernmost tip of Europe. Now, here we are on the opposite side on the far North.
We left the UK in our motorhome on June 27th, arriving here at Nordkapp today, July the 10th, 2019. Not bad for a journey of almost 2,500 miles that had us doing a detour of a few days to the Northeast of Norway and even before that a two night stay in Sweden’s capital of Stockholm.
Nordkapp, situated on the Island of Magerøya in Norway’s County of Finnmark, is the furthest North you can travel following along on the E69 which is the northernmost public road in Europe. The road itself is strikingly scenic, with several viewing points along the way for admiring your surroundings.
View point on the E69 to Nordkapp in Norway.
We travelled through a few tunnels, including the deep undersea Nordkapp Tunnel which reaches 212 metres below sea level at the lowest point.
Nordkapp undersea tunnel
There are no tolls on the E69, it is all free to use, including the incredible tunnels. There are dedicated lanes for cyclists and we encountered many doing this route. The road winds its way up flanked by the Barents sea for most of the way, and there is very little traffic. Every second or third vehicle on the road seems to be a motorhome, but hardly any British vans, most are Norwegian, Scandinavian or German.
It is up there with one of the most beautiful drives we have done so far with our motorhome.
Part of the map we are using. It shows our route in green from Tana Bru to Nordkapp.
The final destination is here by the 307-metre-high cliff (1,007 feet) with a large flat plateau adorned by the iconic metal globe. From here the only dry land between us and the North Pole is the Svalbard archipelago. If there is ever a case for the saying “the journey is more important than the destination”, this place epitomizes it. After the long journey North, arriving almost feels like an anti-climax.
We made it to Nordkapp…yes it is a newly wed couple behind us.
We are here to watch the midnight sun, which shines everyday (weather permitting) from May the 14th to July 31st, along with other hundreds of tourists that have been disgorged a few hours before midnight by the many tour buses parked at the Nordkapp large car park. The tour buses bring many of the cruise line passengers over from the small town of Honningsvåg just few miles down the road where cruising boats can dock.
Champagne with our new friends at Nordkapp.
It looks like there is going to be a party here today. We have already started it, since arriving we have been offered champagne by total strangers, a lovely couple from Switzerland (couple on the left). They offered us a glass and told us that it is traditional to drink champagne at Nordkapp…so who are we to contradict that? A Spanish couple (middle) also joined our party.
Things to do at Nordkapp
We did find a few things to entertain ourselves with before midnight. The Nordkapp visitors centre looks a bit like a huge bunker, but it is very cosy inside. There are shops and restaurants and interesting exhibits about the history of this area, the first people to inhabit it, the nature and wild life that can be found around here, and also a good account of WWII naval actions on North Cape.
Cave of Lights
There is a very small church inside the visitors centre, St. Johannes Chapel, the world’s northernmost ecumenical church. People can get married at this tiny chapel, in fact we saw a couple of nearly weds having their photo being taken with their guests by the iconic metal globe just as we arrived. Quite a cool venue to tie the knot.
We particularly enjoyed the chilled atmosphere of the Cave of Lights showing the Aurora Borealis with special effects lighting and music. A panorama cinema showcases a short film depicting life above the Arctic Circle throughout the seasons, it is also really worth a visit.
Midnight Sun at Nordkapp
As midnight approached, we were disappointed to find the midnight sun hiding behind some thick clouds.
It felt like an early evening light, there were lots of people by the metal globe taking pictures and waiting for the sun to make an appearance, but to no avail, only small glimpses of light, but it was over-all a very poor performance. But at least It was dry and although the temperature was down to about 4 or 5 degrees C it was not as cold as I had expected. We were all just so happy to be here. By half past midnight most of the tour buses had left taking away most of the visitors. We stayed with other motor-homers and a few brave campers who had set up their tents on the grass.
Some of the visitors stayed overnight in a tent.
Most Northerly Point?
Nordkapp is often promoted as the most Northerly point in mainland Europe. Located at N 71°10′21″ E 25°47′04″ it is the most northerly point reachable by road, the E69 European highway. However the true most northerly point of Europe is nearby Knivskjelodden peninsula. It reaches 1.5 km further north than Nordkapp, at N71°11′08° E 25.71°. Therefore Knivskjelodden is the northernmost point of Europe (excluding Svalbard).
Some also argue that Magerøya being an Island, does not qualify as mainland Europe and therefore the archipelago of Svalbard should be the Northernmost point.
Photo taken from a poster at the Nordkapp visitor centre.
It is possible to hike to Knivskjelodden peninsula via a 9km path (18 km return) from a marked carpark just few km down from Nordkapp. Apparently it is not an easy hike, but we can’t comment since we did not attempt it. We were far too lazy after our very late night shenanigans waiting for the midnight sun to make an appearance.
How to visit Nordkapp
Visitors to Nordkapp come by car, motorhome, motorbike, bicycle, bus, on foot and various other variations. We even encountered a young woman travelling here alone pulling all her belongings on a two wheels sleigh. The site is open every day, opening times vary so check official website for accurate timetable and regulations during the winter time.
The entrance fee (July 2019) which is valid for 24 hours and includes all facilities:
Adult NOK 285 per person.
Children u/15 years NOK 95 p.p.
Family (2 adults + 2 children)NOK 665
Students/ Military soldiers NOK 180 per person.
Entrance fee is reduced with reduced access to facilities and it is free for visitors who arrive by foot, bicycle or other non-motorized vehicles.
We stayed overnight parked at the large carpark with our motorhome, enjoying all the facilities, including experiencing this stunning location when it was less busy. We noticed that some of the cyclists and motor-bikers stayed in their own small tents.
The nearest hotels are at the small fishing village of Honningsvåg, where there is also a cruise terminal for people who arrive on the Hurtigruten or other cruise ships.
Final thoughts
An interesting sky, but where is the midnight sun?
At last, we made it to Nordkapp and yes it has been definitely worth making the long journey up here. We felt a little disappointed to have missed out on seeing the midnight sun from this iconic location, but since we will be hanging out here in the Arctic for few more weeks, we will no doubt have many other opportunities to see it in all its glory. We are just at the start of our 2 to 3 months road trip exploring this part of Europe by motorhome. Already it feels like its going to be an amazing adventure.
Your blogs are super engaging…. Keep travelling keep writing
Radha, thank you so much…you have made my day 🙂 I really appreciate your support.
Fabulous scenery but such a shame about the midnight sun! Lovely to read about unusual places, thank you
The scenery is absolutely gorgeous even without the midnight sun, the journey up here was definitely worth it. We are really enjoying the far North of Norway, it feels off the beaten track and remote. I think as we journey South things will change a little and it will became busier and more touristic…but lets wait and see.
This leg of your European road tour is fascinating. As much as I enjoyed the the posts on France, Spain and Portugal, the terrain was familiar to me, however, this part of Europe is unknown to me. I shall keep all this useful information written with such passion for my future travels. Hopefully, a book will be published so I can take it with me. The scenery is spectacular. Soak it all up, it will be become part of you for ever more.
Val, thank you 🙂 this road trip has already been very worthwhile. It feels very different from our travels in Spain and Portugal, since here it is more about the natural world rather than the history and cultural sites. Although I think we will see more of the history and culture of Norway in some of the larger cities like Tromso and Oslo. We are both loving it so far 🙂
I had no idea this would draw so many tourists. When we lived in northern Alberta it was not unusual for it still to be somewhat light at 11pm. Of course you can imagine the lack of sun in winter!
I agree that although at this location you didn’t see the full sun you will likely see it during your extensive trip. Chase the midnight sun you adventurers!
Sue, the midnight sun at Nordkapp has became quite iconic here in Europe. So it was our dream to see it there, but it was not to be…no regrets though, the journey there was beautiful. It has been great here this far North to have day light for 24 hours, but like you have pointed out in the winter 24 hours of darkness must be very hard. Although the beauty of the Northern Lights would probably make up for the lack of sunshine…to some extent. Thank you for your lovely comment and we shall keep chasing that midnight sun 🙂
Oh wow, thanks for taking me along.
Peggy, it is an absolute pleasure to have you coming along on our journey to Nordkapp 🙂
The coastilne looks amazing, Gilda, and it would be worth it for those views alone. I really love that last image, sunshine or not 🙂 🙂
Jo, the coastline is absolutely gorgeous. The scenery along the coastal road was breathtakingly beautiful. We were disappointed not to get the full blown midnight sun experience, but there was a lovely soft light 🙂
Incredible! All your effort and time is more than worth it to reach to this northern tip of the European continent. Nordkapp looks so peaceful that it is simply out of this world, can I reach there by plane too? Glad that you finally made this wish list come true and I look forward to following your adventure in the Arctic area!
It was definitely worth the long journey North, it is a beautiful road trip culminating at Nordkapp. It is possible to reach Nordkapp by flying to Lakselv (via Tromso), and then form Lakselv airport there are two daily bus departures to Honningsvåg, the nearest town before Nordkapp. There are buses regularly from Honningsvåg to Nordkapp during the summer, reduced service during the winter. There are no hotels at Nordkapp. The nearest hotels are at Honningsvåg. If not driving to Nordkapp, I think a good option would be to do a cruise to the cruise port of Honningsvåg with Hurtigruten or other cruise company and then a bus tour from there.
Congratulations on reaching the “northernmost point” and achieving your dream of witnessing the cloudy but impressive midnight sun. The geography here is very interesting and the scenery looks somewhat stark but absolutely beautiful. I have a friend that just got back from a motorcycle tour of the area. He too saw a lot of motorhomes, as well as motorcycles enjoying the views and excellent toll-free roads.
Joe, thank you so much. We were like two excited kids when we finally arrived at Nordkapp, after years of day dreaming about it…finally it became a reality. Not even the lack of a full blown midnight sun could dampen our spirits. I am sure your friend must have thoroughly enjoyed riding his motorbike along this amazing road. You describe it well…”stark but absolutely beautiful”.
Gilda, The joy of travel that comes through in your writing is infectious. Keep Excited and Carry On!
Joe, thank you for your support, very much appreciated.
What an incredible place to visit, and even if the sun was playing coy, the views were still amazing. But I understand the disappointment because sometimes you only get one shot at it. I really hope I will one day be able to make it to that part of Europe; it looks beautiful and peaceful.
Lieve
It was an incredible place to visit, not only for the history of this area, but also for the beauty of the landscape. Having the midnight sun would have been the icing on the cake…sadly it was not to be, even though we had postponed our arrival by a day to ensure the weather was going to cooperate. Unfortunately you can never rely on good weather this far North. Sounds like you have been having a great time drinking all the coffee in Lake Como 🙂
Gilda, you are having quite the summer adventure. If you took that last picture at midnight, I’d say you saw the midnight sun. Stunning shot.
Suzanne, thank you. Brian and I were hoping for that full on vision of the midnight sun and a cloudless sky. But there were glimpses of it in between the heavy clouds…we were definitely grateful for that. With the heatwave in most of Europe, it has been a good decision to head North this summer. I hope your home redecoration is going very well indeed and that you are also enjoying some nice Florida summer 🙂
There may not have been a sun, but it was good to see it in your post. We were totally immersed in fog while we were there and the museum was about all we saw well.
The weather this far North is so unpredictable, one can never count on seeing the midnight sun. We were grateful for small sun glimpses and a dry night. We enjoyed the little museum and the other Visitors Centre attractions. Thank you for your comment.
Fascinating to read because I know so little about this far Northern region of Europe so it was a good education. Thanks for the maps. Looks like such a fun trip even though nature failed to fully co-operate.
Peta
Peta, one can never count on nature to cooperate hahaha…this far North the weather is even more unpredictable. But we do feel happy that we have fulfilled our dream of doing this road trip to Nordkapp. I am pleased to take somewhere you did not know much about it…certainly has been an education for us also. Sounds like you and Ben are settling well in Vietnam and now with your new job things will be even better 🙂
Gilda it does sound like an amazing adventure even if the Midnight sun was elusive….this time. I’m thinking and hoping for you to have that experience before you leave. Your photos are amazing and drinking champagne with strangers sounds like a party I want to be part of :). I love the way you write. You make the reader feel like you are their best friend. Stay safe and make sure there’s always some “very late night shenanigans” that’s what makes everything worthwhile :).
Lissette, a road trip to Nordkapp was something we used to talk about a lot. Fulfilling that dream has been amazing, even though that pesky midnight sun did not show up. Having champagne with total strangers made the trip even more memorable. Often the people you meet along the way can became the memories you treasure the most. We did see a glorious midnight sun the very next day…when even more very late night shenanigans took place 🙂
Gilda, I remember “Insomnia” with All Pacino. It was exhausting just watching it. It must be weird having the sun out 24 hours? I can see why it would drive some people loco. Do you find it affecting your sleeping patterns?
Frank, I have never seen the All Pacino film. I will look out for it. Having the sun shining for 24 hours everyday felt exhilarating at first and then very bizarre. It definitely changes your body clock, we did not feel like going to bed. Having black out blinds in our motorhome saved our sanity. otherwise I think I would probably have gone a little “loca”.
Fantastic adventure in your home on wheels. We would love to see that part of the world and it is definitely on our list, like SO many other places. I love all of your photos but I have to say I love, love, love the photo of your map with the highlighted roads. I don’t know how any of us lived/traveled before GPS and we use it in our daily lives as well. But, I love old school paper maps. I used to do the same thing, highlight our routes when we road tripped. There’s just something about a paper map that conjures up a bit of nostalgia of days before technology.
Patti, GPS is an absolute necessity for me. I am not good with maps, but I do love tracing our route on a proper paper map and get a better sense of achieving something. I am glad you like the map photo. I think you and Abi would enjoy Norway, particularly the far North which has been so interesting and off the beaten track. We are loving this road trip and so far we have only seen half of what this country has to offer. Thanks for your comment.
An amazing adventure indeed! I like the idea of having champagne at Nordkapp! 🙂
Rosemary, Champagne with total strangers…it was bizarrely wonderful:) Arriving in Nordkapp was a dream come true, it did not disappoint even though the midnight sun was so elusive.
That is unfortunately part of visiting a northern country by the sea like Norway – that the weather is never predictable. But I am glad you were still able to enjoy the area. I find that Nordkapp is often an anticlimax, anyway.
Otto, we got every type of weather on this trip. Often we say that it is the journey, not the destination that makes for a good trip…perhaps that is very true with this trip to Nordkapp. For us it was also about realizing a dream…driving to Nordkapp by motorhome, something we had talked about for many years 🙂
Wow Gilda, what an adventure! I must admit that you had me scrambling for my atlas – and now I have a new destination for my bucket list.
Too bad that the midnight sun did not pop out, but our mantra is, “We see what we see!” No matter how hard you try to coordinate things, nature does not always cooperate. I love that you introduced me to a place that is totally new to me. Thanks for taking us along with you. ~Terri
Terri, I like your mantra “We see what we see”, nature is just too unpredictable. But being here was the culmination of many years of dreaming and planning. It felt great to finally arrive, we stayed overnight and were sad to leave the next day. Definitely a bucket list place, I think you and James would love a Norway road trip, perhaps in a motorhome also?
Wouldn’t that be cool, Gilda! You have definitely ignited our imaginations on that front. Thanks! 🙂 ~Terri