Northwards Through Thailand
After kicking off our 10 weeks SE Asia backpacking trip by landing in the Thai Capital of Bangkok, we are now making our way Northwards through Thailand by visiting Ayutthaya > Sukhothai > Chiang Mai > Chiang Rai and Chiang Khong (where we will cross into Laos).
It is our preference to avoid flying between places by using overland means of transportation whenever possible. We leave Bangkok on an easy door-to-door ride by Grab taxi at Β£27 for the one and half hours ride in a comfortable airconditioned taxi, it was a winner for us. A very comfortable journey that delivered us at the pretty little bungalows (Baan Kong Homestay, Β£27 per night) just few metres from all the temples we are here to see. The owner is a lovely lady who welcomes us warmly and proceeds to give us all the necessary maps and useful advice for exploring. She has her cute two-year old granddaughter at the front desk, helping out and making us feel at home.
Ayutthaya – Once Upon A Capital
In its glory days this former capital would have been stunning, centred around enigmatic temples and sumptuous palaces. Now the old, crumbling temples are a sad reminder of the brutality of war. This city was the Capital of Siam from 1350 to 1767 when it was invaded and mostly destroyed by the Burmese.
Many people come here on a day trip, but we are glad to be staying overnight. Since arriving we got busy exploring, there is not a huge amount to see and we covered all of the main temples in just a few hours. The map handed over to us by our guest house owner was great at pointing us in the right direction and ensuring that we saw all the main sights.
After a few hours of exploring we get very hot under the midday sun, so we take a break for lunch and carry on exploring on foot afterwards… with hindsight hiring a tuk-tuk to drive us around would have been a good option. Too late now, our tired feet will be complaining tonight.
But no rest for us yet, since we have booked via our guest house, into a boat tour of the Temples on the outside of the island. We love how easy it is to organize everything via the hotel and we are picked up late afternoon, along with other tourists by a tuk -tuk and taken to the river, where we board a small boat.
Although we are tired from the earlier Temple hopping under the hot sun, we thoroughly enjoy the boat cruise, stopping at different sights and temples along the way, and particularly love our last stop to visit Wat Chai Wattanaram and witness a glorious sunset behind the old temple.
Dinner tonight is at a small restaurant with outdoor tables, just few metres from our guest house, but then we return home to realise that we should have bought our bus ticket for the next morning trip to Sukhothai. Our hostess kindly gets her son to drive us the few kilometres into New Ayutthaya, where the small bus station is located and we soon have our tickets to ride.
It is also possible to travel to Sukhothai by train from Ayutthaya or Bangkok, but just bear in mind that the train arrives at Phitsanulok train station which is about 60 km away from Sukhothai. From there you will need to arrange transport to Sukhothai, which usually involves a tuk-tuk to nearby bus station and then a bus to Sukhothai.
Tips for your visit to Ayutthaya – You can visit as part of a tour or very easily go independently from Bangkok. There are overland public transport services such as buses, train, mini-vans or like us using the Grab taxis. There are also boat trips from Bangkok, but not something we have tried ourselves.
The temples can easily be explored in one day, but if you would like to see the temples on the outside of the island consider staying overnight and perhaps doing it as part of a cruise like we did, your Ayutthaya hotel can arrange it for you.
Sukhothai – “the dawn of happiness”
This UNESCO World Heritage City was the first capital of Siam (1238-1438), the birth place of Thai culture, art, architecture and language. It remained prosperous until it was annexed by the Ayutthaya Kingdom.
Our bus journey from Ayutthaya was very comfortable, with lots of leg room, AC and WC. We were served cake and coffee at the start, also given a bottle of water each. There was a lunch stop with some buffet type food included on the price of the ticket. The trip took about 5 1/2 hrs, with the lunch stop. Overall we enjoyed this bus journey and would recommend it. We arrived at a small bus station in New Sukhothai, a fairly lengthy tuk-tuk ride to our hotel in Old Sukhothai was 300 Baht.
We were impressed with our hotel, the Thai-Thai Sukhothai Guest House. Super friendly staff welcomed us with lots of smiles and enthusiastic “sawasdee” (hello in Thai, as a woman you say βsawasdee ka” ) and the lovely “wai” gesture which is done by placing the palms together in a prayer pose just under the chin.
Our little bungalow was beautiful with a 4-poster bed and a private bathroom, costing us Β£33 per night. Again we were given lots of written information about the Temples to visit, places to eat, how to hire bicycles from them etc.
We stayed 2 nights which was plenty to explore all the temples, we had a lot of fun riding a bicycle around all the temples and around the old town. We followed their advice on places to eat and particularly loved the very humble Su Ree Rat restaurant along the main road. In spite of the plastic chairs and simplicity of the place, it was a family run restaurant with delicious local food. At a table next to us we chatted to British couple Paul and Linda, from Stafford who are also travelling in SE Asia for few months.
We left on an early bus bound for Chiang Mai… another very comfortable journey, with food and water included on the ticket price. We noticed some of the people who travelled with us from Ayutthaya are now also on this bus journey. Including the Dutch guy who we befriended and chatted to few times before. He has a very distinctive look being very tall, slim with many piercings and tattoos. He tells me that he can’t wait to add to his tattoo collection once arriving in Chiang Mai, apparently there you can find some of the best tattoo artists in the world. (we’ll take his word for it…)
He also tells me that he has quit his job in Holland to find enlightenment at a Buddhist Monastery in Northern Thailand. Aged 38 he is feeling a bit lost, not sure of what to do next. I thought back at myself aged 38…was I also trying to find myself then? I guess I did have a complete change of career at around 37…but sorry I digress. We say our goodbyes soon after arriving in Chiang Mai, sadly I don’t see him again.
The people you meet on the way are just so fascinating, one of the great joys of travelling.
Tips for your trip to Sukhothai – We loved Sukhothai and stayed 2 nights with one full day exploring. If we could only choose to visit either Ayutthaya or Sukhothai, we would have chosen the later. It is much better preserved and not as busy, renting a bicycle was a fun way of exploring it, but some people prefer to hire a tuk-tuk.
We really enjoyed staying in Old Sukhothai (as opposed to New Sukhothai), it is charming and very near to all the historical sites. Although I have heard that there are more budget friendly options of accommodation in New Sukhothai. One full day is enough to see everything.
I suggest buying your onwards bus ticket to your next destination on arrival at Sukhothai, to avoid having to return there later. It is also possible to buy tickets on line, although we have not done it ourselves.
Chiang Mai – Capital of the North
In early December 2017, Chiang Mai was awarded the UNESCO title of Creative City. It is a gem of a place, surrounded by some of the highest mountains in Thailand. There is lots to do in this area, including hill tribe tourism and trekking.Β Luckily we have been here before, or we would have felt very “short changed” with the two meagre nights we are staying this time.
No wonder many who find themselves at this Northern gem never leave again. This town is a Mecca for the “Digital Nomads” crowd who love the great Wi-Fi connection and excellent value for money lifestyle. It is charming, laid back and interesting.
We stayed in the heart of the historic centre and found ourselves doing a little exploring early next morning, by visiting the beautiful Buddhist Temple, Wat Phra Singh, just around the corner from our hotel. Pilgrims flock here to venerate the famous Buddha image known as Phra Singh (Lion Buddha), I was happy to just get a Monk blessing…one can never get too many blessings. He tied a little bracelet around my wrist whilst chanting a mantra. Donations are welcomed, but not expected.
Just before sunset we managed to visit Wat Chedi Luang, which has an impressive ruined Lanna-style chedi built in 1441 and a large compound built around the stupa. A group of Monks were busy doing some work on the grounds, it was interesting to watch their camaraderie and playful interactions with each other.
When we visited Chiang Mai, back in 2014 we explored Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, just outside the city, high on top of a mountain overlooking the city. It is absolutely gorgeous and should not be missed by anyone visiting Chiang Mai. We did not make it back there this time around.
Eating is always a highlight of any trip to Thailand, here in Chiang Mai we found some very tasty places to tickle our taste buds and one that particularly stood out for us was Lert Ros. A very unassuming hole in the wall local place, with a queue of punters outside…always a good sign. We ordered a whole tilapia, which was grilled and served with a spicy sauce. Absolutely delicious!
Tips for your visit to Chiang Mai – I recommend staying within the city walls of the old city to be in the centre of the action. I am happy to recommend our hotel The Mo-Mo Hotel, modern, friendly and in a great location, although rooms where not very large and breakfast was not included.
To get to Chiang Mai from Bangkok there are buses, train, mini vans services. Tickets can be booked online or direct at the bus/train station. Back in 2014 we travelled on a night sleeper train and really enjoyed the experience. This time we arrived by bus, following our visit to Sukhothai. It is also possible to fly from Bangkok.
There are many beautiful temples, museums, markets to explore in Chiang Mai. There are also trekking, hill tribe visits, elephant sanctuaries, massages, cooking classes and many outdoor activities. I would recommend at least 3 full days in the city, but there is plenty to keep you occupied for longer if you have the time.
All good things come to an end and we soon find ourselves on another bus journey Northwards to Chiang Rai.
Chiang Rai – Northern Thailand
Our bus journey to Chiang Rai took about 4 hours, it was pleasant and comfortable, although we did encounter some road works in progress, it did not cause us any delays.
From the bus station at Chiang Rai it is was quick tuk-tuk ride to the charmingly named “Ti Amo” guest house, located just few metres from the Clock Tower and right in the middel of the action. The staff were very friendly, but the hotel is basic and a little rough around the edges. We have a clean bed and our own shower room with WC. Since we are staying just one night here, we feel it is perfect for us.
Soon after arriving at our hotel we go for lunch at a nearby restaurant, being already well past lunch time we are the only punters. After our meal we wander towards the city’s most revered Buddhist Temple, the Wat Phra Kaew. There is a small, but very interesting museum on the grounds housing various Lana artefacts.
Come night time we have a great time exploring the Saturday night market not far from our hotel. It was huge, fun and busy. To top it all there was a funky flower show in town complete with music and entertainment. We spent few hours exploring it and tasting some of the food on offer.
Most people come to this town to visit the heavenly looking White Temple, also called Wat Rong Khum. It is a bizarre place, almost Disney like, situated about 13 km South of the city, we got a Grab taxi to take us there and back. The temple is the brainchild of Thai painter turned Architect Chalermchai Kositpipat. It is all white with borders made of tiny mirror tiles, it glistens with the sun light like a ghostly apparition.
Unfortunately we run out of time to visit other attractions in Chiang Rai, since we have decided to stay overnight at the Thailand border town of Chiang Khong, our gateway to Laos next morning. We leave Chiang Rai by Grab Taxi, a lady driver takes us door to door and we arrive at our next destination just 90 minutes later.
Tips for your visit to Chiang Rai – I would recommend at least two full days to do this city any justice. For accommodation I would recommend staying near the Clock Tower for a very central location.
Food, transport and accommodation around this area is relatively cheap compared to some other places in Thailand.
Some people stay overnight in Chiang Rai before doing the border crossing into Laos, but we found staying overnight in Chiang Khong saved us from a very early start to catch our slow boat cruise down the Mekong into Luang Prabang next day.
Chiang Khong – Making a beeline for the border
Our only reason to stay overnight here was because it would save us from a very early start travelling from Chiang Rai. Our Grab taxi from Chiang Rai delivered us into the lovely pastel coloured chalets surrounded by rubber trees in a quiet countryside location…in other words in the middle of no where. Pana Kalong guest house was super cute.
Our hostess was absolutely gorgeous, super friendly, smiley and welcoming. She offered a comfortable stay and the best Thai curry we had on this trip. We spent a very pleasant evening sitting at an outdoors table with fellow travellers sharing life stories. The twoΒ young Canadian girls from British Colombia “Devyn” and “Asha” were really good fun and we ended up bumping into them again further on in Luang Prabang.
The guest house owner kindly gives us a lift next morning to the border crossing place and we wave goodbye to Thailand. .
We found travelling as a backpacker in Thailand very easy, booking transport and accommodation on the go kept things flexible. There are no shortage of good value accommodation. Food is also inexpensive, particularly when eating the delicious street food and/or at food markets. Thai people are the friendliest of people, no wonder this country is often referred to as the land of smiles. We also felt very safe, even when walking around late at night.
We left Thailand behind and crossed into Laos, but we will be back in Thailand again sometime in March, although this time we plan to explore some of the Islands in the South.
I will be writing about our border crossing and our slow boat experience at my next blog post, until then safe travels!
Hi Gilda, we enjoyed your blog, lots of information, thank you! It seems we are kind of following you around, left Bangkok yesterday and spending 2 weeks on Koh Lanta before heading off Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and slow boat to Luang Prabang so looking forward to your blog on the Loas boarder crossing. Happy travels! π
Hi guys, I hope some of this information will be useful to you. How lovely that you are getting some R&R in Ko Lanta before heading North. If we have time at the end of our trip, we might go and spend sometime in Southern Thailand, so I will be looking forward to your blog posts on KL. I wonder if our paths will cross?
I think you will probably remain too far ahead of us for our paths to cross, Gilda, unfortunately. We will be entering Laos on 29th February for around two weeks, before we head off to Hanoi and Halong Bay next, and then work our way down the Vietnam coast. So far we are absolutely loving Koh Lanta, itβs utterly perfect! You were wondering what we would make of Bangkok….well, our posts will tell you we loved it! Looking forward to reading about the slow boat to Luang Prabang, as we are arriving the same way.
This part of Thailand looks and sounds amazing by the photos and your vivid depiction of the places, temples and eateries. I get the impression that you are loving the warmth and informal hospitality of the people. How kind of your landlady to sort out your transportation issue. I was impressed by the way she took action and control of the situation, efficiently sorting you guys out. The photos look gorgeous, all colours and smiles. Thank you for sharing. Big hugs.
Val, Northern Thailand is very special, with temples, landscapes and activities that are very different from the South. The people are just so friendly, they really go out of their way to help. We got the warmest of welcomes by the landlady in Chiang Khong and she cooked the best meal we had in Thailand as well as getting us to the border crossing. Thank you for your lovely comment, big hugs.
I think you did it right by traveling overland. That way, you get to see Sukhothai and the countryside. You are brave for taking the slow boat! I’m excited to read about that.
Jeff, we were so glad to have been able to see Sukhothai, it is such a beautiful place. We found the buses in Thailand super comfortable and we could not believe that a meal and drinks were also included on the price of the ticket. Definitely overlanding is the way to go.
Nice accounting of your time in all these lovely places. Do you feel jaded about the temples at all? I know there are a ton. I like the looks of the Thai-Thai guest house. It looks awesome. Your different modes of transport also sound top-notch. Nothing like a/c in that weather. I have to say though that l find it very hard to understand people who need to “find” themselves. It’s just not an African thing, at least not when l was growing up. You’re given till like 3rd or 4th year high school to find your footing and your last year at O levels, you better have found the real you. Loving the pictures on FB :-).
Kemkem, many of the Temples we have visited so far are quite unique, so they have kept our attention. We also took it quite easy, exploring in the morning and getting a good rest in the afternoon. The Thai-Thai Guest House was so gorgeous and the staff were incredibly friendly and welcoming, we felt like part of the family. I think the Dutch guy just needed a break from his dull job and life in Holland, I can understand that sometimes people just need a bit of time off to re-charge batteries. He told me that he wanted to spend some time in a Monastery thinking about what he really would like to do next. But I know what you mean, not being something that it is part of your culture. Maybe it is something that has became more prominent in recent years, particularly in countries where people can afford to take time off work.
Gilda not only do i enjoy following you but really appreciate the special tips for each of the locations. When planning a big trip like this it can be overwhelming to know where to start. Happy travels and have been enjoying your social media posts.
Sue, thank you for your kind comment. I hope some of the tips can be helpful to others planning a similar trip. I am glad you are enjoying the photos on social media, I am a bit behind with the blog posts. I have been keeping a small diary to remind me of what we have been up to π
there is certainly no shortage of things to do and see in Thailand! Great post and great pics!
Andy, Thailand is a country we see ourselves getting back to again in the future, since there is so much to see in this country. It is also such a friendly and easy country to travel around. The food is another very good reason to return.
Sounds like you are having a wonderful time, but then again, Thailand is a wonderful country. Luckily your travels don’t seem to be too affected by the coronavirus.
Looking forward to hearing about your boat trip into Laos, one country that is still on my ‘to do’ list.
Lieve
Lieve, we were so happy to be back in Thailand and kick start our trip from there. It is such an easy and friendly country for a backpacking trip, we loved it. The coronavirus has not affected us…so far anyway. We are currently in Cambodia and we have been told that many tourists have cancelled their trip. Siem Reap apparently is not as busy as usual. I hope you will make it to Laos soon, we really enjoyed it there.
Beautiful photos, Gilda.
Donna, Thank you so much. Thailand is certainly a very photogenic country π
Incredible photos, looking at them, I kind of was there. Thanks for this opportunity! I’m impressed!
Thank you so much. I am so glad you have enjoyed the photos and it has made you feel part of the trip. There is no better compliment, thank you π
It looks as beautiful as I hoped, Gilda. I love the way you plan your trips. It’s often not easy to get the information you need to get around and make the most of your time. You seem to be doing a great job. Have fun! π π
Thank you so much Jo. I really enjoy the planning phase of the trip, with so much information available now days it is not so difficult. We have an itinerary, but also keeping room for spontaneity and plans changing as we travel. Thank you for your support Jo π
This is a wonderful post! Will save it in our Thailand folder. Everything looks so clean!
Thank you, I think you would love Thailand, it is a country rich in culture, traditions, beautiful landscapes, delicious food and very easy going. People are super friendly. Sorry for the delay in replying to your comment π
Ah, was that my recommendation you took for the Thai Thai Guesthouse Gilda? If so I’m glad you enjoyed.
So, which did you prefer: Ayutthaya or Sukhothai?
Frank, it was indeed your recommendation my friend. You were spot on with everything you mentioned, a super friendly place, great location, comfortable, very clean and just beautiful. We both preferred Sukhothai, because it was less busy, the Temples are better preserved, it wasn’t as hot as Ayutthaya and we really enjoyed exploring it by bicycle. But we are very glad to have been able to visit both. Sorry for the delay in replying to your comment, Wi-Fi has not always been very good.
Like Frank mentioned we also stayed at the Thai Thai guesthouse guest house and loved it. I felt like a Thai princess (and Frank too :)). I only wished they also served dinner there. Leaving it at night after a long day of temple exploring wasn’t always fun. Wat Si Chum was one of my favorite temples. I was just in awe of the beautiful Buddha and his sweet smile. It’s funny, we met a young man from Finland in our last trip to Thailand who talked about similar issues. But he was searching for a “real connection” in his life. He was based in Thailand (for work) and felt that nothing was “real” in Thailand but did not want to return home. I think at one point he started to get weepy and we tried to cheer him up as much as we could. I think there’s a lot of “lost” people who go to SEA to escape only to find out that everything eventually catches up with you. Great wrap up on the temples. I loved our Sukhothai visit but I think I will always love Ayutthaya just a little bit more. Stay Safe Gilda!
Lissette, the Thai-Thai guest House was just gorgeous and they treated us like long lost relatives, we loved it there. Interesting about the guy from Finland feeling that “nothing was real” in Thailand, but perhaps it is difficult to find real deep, meaningful connections when you are looking in the wrong places. Usually visitors in Thailand, as in other parts of the world, are just passing through or only staying for a short time, making it harder to find long lasting relationships. Well done you guys for trying to cheer him up, having people who listen can usually be very helpful. It is fascinating all the different characters we meet on the road. I agree with you that it is a close call between Sukhothai and Ayutthaya, since both offer different and unique sites. But for me, if I can only choose one it has to be Sukhothai. Thank you for your lovely comment and sorry for my delay in replying π
I have been to northern Thailand many times, and always loved it. However, I have not visited Ayutthaya yet, so that was fun to read about. As always, you writing is excellent and so are the photos. A great post.
Otto, thank you so much. I can see why you would love Northern Thailand, with all the cultural riches, the interesting tribes, fascinating Temples and beautiful landscapes. I can see myself returning there in the future. Ayutthaya being so close to Bangkok it makes for an easy day trip there.
Thailand is always a treat. We never did get to Chiang Rai, so it’s great to see your photos of the White Palace… Chiang Mai we spent almost a month and really enjoyed our time there, particularly the food, but also all the temples and the ease of getting around. This post is chockfull of good information and recommendations. Look forward to reading about your time in Laos (another favorite = Luang Prabang.)
Peta
Peta, isn’t it so easy to travel in Thailand? A well trodden path, full of so many delights. Northern Thailand in particular has so much to offer, with Chiang Mai being a great hub of activities and delicious food. The White Temple in Chiang Rai is quite a bizarre place, we did enjoy visiting it. I am very behind with blogging, since I am finding very hard to blog whilst travelling, so I will probably get busy writing when I get home. Luang Prabang was a favourite for us also π
What a wonderful account of your travels Gilda – so informative and I love the human stores along the way. The locals sound delightful and you have obviously met some interesting fellow travellers. Northern Thailand looks beautiful and you have shared some lovely photos. Hope you enjoyed Laos – will look forward to reading about your next adventure soon. Safe travels π π
Rosemay, thank you so much π Meeting people has been a huge highlight of this trip. Interestingly some of the people we met along the way, we ended up meeting again (by chance) further on into our trip. For example the Canadian girls we shared dinner with in Chiang Khong we met then again in Luang Prabang and once more in Ho Chi Minh City, so amazing. I have few more posts to share on our 10 weeks long trip, but I have found it hard to blog whilst travelling. Thank you for your comment π
Yes it can be hard blogging as you travel and anyway you want to enjoy the experience without having to find wifi etc! Stay safe and look forward to reading about your ongoing adventures soon π π
Gilda, what an amazing trip you are having. You have successfully tilted my thinking toward Thailand, but not sure that back-packing would be for me. You guys make it look easy. Not sure if you are anywhere near Peta and Ben who live in Viet Nam and write Green Global Trek https://www.greenglobaltrek.com/ but, if you are you should look them up. You guys have a lot in common and would love each other. Stay WELL my dear!
Suzanne, thank you we are loving this trip. When we started planning the trip we thought that a 10 weeks backpacking would be quite hard, but we have found the opposite. South East Asia is a well trodden path and there is just so much information available that makes it very easy indeed. Some of our bus journeys have been a bit hard, but all part of the experience. Yes I am a big fan of the Green Global Trek blog and have been following them for years, so it was great to finally meet up with Peta and Ben, a highlight of our visit to Hoi An. Thank you for your comment π
“The people you meet on the way are just so fascinating, one of the great joys of travelling.”
I love this, Gilda, it’s so true. It’s one of the reasons we enjoy traveling so much. I love hearing people’s stories and why they are right there in that moment.
That part of the world is not yet on our radar, but maybe one day. You’re definitely painting a picture and I’m enjoying your narrative.
Safe travels ~ And, stay healthy!
Patti, we have met so many interesting people. Back at home we don’t usually start conversations with total strangers, but somehow it is different when you are travelling, people are more open about their lives and happy to share stories. It is great π I am well behind with my blog posts, but I have now decided that I will catch up when I get home. Wifi has not always been good. Thank you for your good wishes, we are trying to stay healthy and taking all necessary precautions…although there are no guarantees.
Hi Gilda, It is great to see you and Brian on the road again. This time without your motorhome. With all of the motorbikes and crazy drivers in SE Asia, I’m sure you guys are happy to be backpacking this trip. Your photos are beautiful, and the people seem very friendly. Safe and happy travels!
Joe, we left our motorhome is storage over the winter months and felt that SE Asia would be a great place for a backpacking adventure. We did meet some people here in SE Asia travelling by motorhome, but like you have mentioned the crazy traffic is not for everyone and certainly would not be for us. Sadly our Spring travel plans by motorhome are now on hold, since Europe is currently on lockdown. Stay safe yourselves and keep enjoying South America.
Thanks for the update, Gilda. The contagion is not as bad here in southern Chile, yet. We too are re-thinking our travel plans. We might skip the bigger cities, and look for more outdoor activities to minimize human contact. Take good care, and try to enjoy your downtime.
I spent one very very hot afternoon in Ayutthaya. I quite liked the atmosphere of the town however so many of the statues has been stolen – well the heads had been stolen from the torso it was quite sad to see them in that state. No doubt you can see them in people’s private collections and probably in some Thai museums.
David, it was indeed hot in Ayutthaya, when we visited also. I have heard that so many of the statues and artwork has been stolen from the site, it is such a shame. I do hope that from now on the Thai government will take better care of such a National treasure and preserve it for posterity. We really enjoyed the town, the food and how friendly the Thai people are. Our guest house was great and the owners could not do enough for us. We loved it there.