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Since reaching a certain “milestone age”… don’t ask… I have found myself feeling a great sense of urgency to make lifestyle changes that would better suit this stage of my life.
Time is ticking faster than ever and it has now become a priority to ensure I use my time wisely pursuing those long-awaited dreams…you know the ones on the “maybe I will do that one day” list. Well, I have now taken early retirement from a job I loved to search for adventure. I feel the
York, capital of the county of Yorkshire in the Northeast of England is a city steeped in history, the perfect place for a city break and a trip back in time to medieval England. In fact, you would be pushed to find another UK city with so much character and historical attractions that are all packed together within a very walkable range. Surrounded by a medieval wall this city is one huge monument to the past, its cobbled streets riddled with history and charm.
The Roman’s were here in AD 71,
The dramatic fjords and glaciers of Norway are among the most spectacular natural wonders of our little blue planet. They have been recognised as one of the “best-unspoiled travel destinations in the world ” and they are also deservedly a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So no surprise that cruising around the Fjords of Norway has been sitting in our wish list for many years, thinking what better way of seeing this diverse landscape than from the water?
And then in mid-August this year, we found ourselves with a window of opportunity to travel somewhere for one week… wanting little effort but with maximum reward, so we set sail from our home port of Southampton a short 30 minutes drive from our house. Checking into the P&O Ventura, our home for the next seven days, was a breeze; just a case of handing over our luggage, our car keys (so they could take care of our car whilst we were away), present ourselves at the check-in desk at our allocated time with all our documentation, and we were good to go.
Our very comfortable room with a window was already waiting for us and after a quick look around our floating hotel we soon found ourselves up on the top deck having a meal and enjoying a sea view.
We spent the rest of the day and all of the next day chugging across the North Sea towards our first port of call:
Stavanger
Pretty Stavanger
The ship docks right by the old town, so going ashore to explore was very easy. We spent most of the morning exploring this waterfront town which has some of the best preserved wooden buildings anywhere in Norway dating back to the 18th century.
Wooden houses at Gamle Stavanger
Later on, we boarded a small boat tour to one of the most striking tourist attractions near Stavanger called Preikestolen, meaning “Pulpit Rock” or also known as “Preacher’s Pulpit”. It is one of the most photographed places in Norway, and Instagram has certainly done a lot for its reputation. The tour was run by P&O and included the boat trip through Lysefjorden and a stop for waffles with strawberry jam, cream and a hot chocolate drink at a lovely restaurant overlooking the Lysefjorden.
Lysefjorden
Pulpit Rock, just sticking out at the very top
Pulpit Rock is a flat-topped cliff that rises about 1,982 ft/604m above the beautiful Lysefjorden. Many come to this area to climb up to Pulpit Rock or do some of the beautiful hiking trails around this area. But for us, it was a case of straining our necks looking up the gorgeous sheer cliff face. We will definitely return to this area in the near future to do some hiking. It is such a stunning place.
What is a Fjord do I hear you ask?
A Fjord is a deep, narrow and long ocean inlet surrounded by steep mountains. The Fjords are formed when the slow-moving glaciers carve their way through the rock as they move towards the sea. At the end of the Ice age that spawned them, they started retreating and seawater rushed in to replace the ice, flooding the valleys. Norway has the highest concentration of Fjords in the world. We only saw a smidgen of it, but it has left us hungry for more.
Our cruise ship sailed off from Stavanger later in the afternoon as we were already thinking and preparing for our next port of call. Arriving early in the morning at our next destination, we stood up on the top deck with a cup of coffee in hand taking in the quiet beauty surrounding us. There was hardly anyone up yet, total bliss.
Alesund
We booked another P&O excursion here, called ” Land of the Trolls” to explore further inland and find out what is the deal here with so many Trolls lurking around this area?
According to Norwegian folk legend, trolls roam through the mountains of Trollstigen every night but change to stone when they are hit by sunlight each morning. Every country has their own folk legends and stories, and our guide did a good job of telling us many interesting titbits about this region of Norway.
Well…the main event here is the drive through the Trollstigen, Norway’s most visited tourist road with its eleven incredible hairpin turns set among beautiful mountains and waterfalls. Interestingly each bend on the road has its own name, usually named after the person who has been responsible for the building work done at that particular stretch of road. Some segments of the road are mostly carved into the mountainside, a masterpiece of clever engineering.
Before driving down the hairpin bends we stopped for a while to visit the platform viewpoint. We were so disappointed that the whole site was shrouded in mist and fog when we first arrived. But we waited patiently and eventually, luck arrived on our side and as the clouds parted we were able to get a stunningly atmospheric view of the valley ahead and the vertiginous hairpin bends down below.
Viewing platform over the Trollstigen
Trollstigen
But this road is no joy ride as we later found out, in fact, I had my heart in my mouth for most of the way down. Our bus driver was a pro thank goodness..but not so much the driver in front of us who kept getting the hairpin bends wrong and having to reverse every time.
Olden
I think this port of call was probably our favorite of all the ports we visited on this trip. We got up early again to watch the sunrise behind the snow-capped mountains as our ship quietly and serenely glided through the glass-like waters of the Fjord into port. The sun soon started to warm up and temperatures rose to a very pleasantly warm day for exploring the Briksdal Glacier.
Brian enjoying the early morning sail into Olden
Again here we booked a tour bus with P&O which included transportation to the start of the trail up to the glacier, a guide who did very little guiding but who was very friendly and did explain a little about the area, and also included was coffee plus very yummy cakes which we devoured with great pleasure after the hike.
The bus left us at a large car park where there is a Lodge/cafe, gift shop, and toilet facilities. From there it is a 3 km easy to moderate hike up to the arm of the glacier which plunges down 1200 meters into the valley. Briksdalsbreen is an arm of the great Jostedalsbreen Glacier, located inside the Jostedalsbreen National Park.
For people who do not enjoy hiking or are unable to hike due to poor mobility, there are “Trollcars” that can be hired from the car park shop to take you up to the glacier. Each car can hold up 7 to 10 people. The road used for the” Trollcars” is not the same as the hiker’s road, but with just as stunning views all around.
We chose to hike, taking our time to enjoy the spectacular scenery of forested mountain tops, rock cliffs and waterfalls tumbling down the valley. You can hear the rushing water from the larger waterfall as you get closer to the glacier. The ice-cold spray of water can be felt as you cross a bridge very close to the waterfall.
We found the hike up to the glacier very easy indeed, but I expect the reason for that was that we were still very fit from the many strenuous hikes we had very recently done in Peru. And here we did not have to endure the high altitudes we experienced in Peru…there was so much more oxygen to breathe here just above sea level that our lungs could not believe their luck. If you are planning to do this hike make sure you are wearing comfortable hiking shoes/trainers. The hike up takes about 45 minutes, a bit shorter time for the way down…but of course, depends on how often you stop for photos.
Hike to Briksdal Glacier
Crossing the bridge is a guarantee of a cool water spray
You can see the Trollcars route here
Stunning scenery all around
Once we reached the top we were met by a green glacial lake and above it the tong of the glacier spilling down into the small lake. It would have been a very peaceful setting if not for the many tourists branding their selfie sticks. We enjoyed it nonetheless (we are tourists too, so can’t really complain) and we took our time there to enjoy such breathtaking scenery.
Brian and me at Briksdal Glacier
Upon our return to the car park area, we enjoyed coffee and cakes at the lovely little lodge/cafe area. Soon it was time to return to our cruise ship, and after a meal and a rest, we left the ship again for a little exploring around the small and very pleasant village of Olden. We walked towards the old Olden church built in 1759 and also the “new” Olden church built in 1934. There are alpine views all around, it is a town surrounded by great natural beauty.
Old Olden church built circa 1759
New Olden church built 1934
It is all about outdoor pursuits in this area. We vowed to return here in the near future to explore more and linger for longer to fully appreciate what this region has to offer. Unfortunately, our time exploring this stunning region soon ended and we sailed away to our next, and last, destination.
Bergen
Our last destination on this cruise was Bergen, Norway’s second largest city. Although beautifully situated in a convergence of Fjords Bergen, was shrouded in mist and the rain was pouring down heavily. It is known for being one
of the wettest cities in Europe and it certainly did not disappoint on that front. We did venture out in any case, armed with umbrellas and waterproof clothing that did little to keep us dry and warm. We visited the fish market..very briefly since there was
Brian and I arrived in Mexico’s Cancun Airport following a short, five-hour flight from Lima, Peru. After feeling cold in Peru for most of our three weeks adventure there, we were looking forward to the promise of warm and sunny days in the Mexican Riviera. We based ourselves at a lovely two bedroom Airbnb apartment in Playa Del Carmem, with plenty of room for us and our
Thousands of tourists every year find their way to Machu Picchu, hiking the Inca Trail just like the Incas did a few Centuries ago. The hidden citadel is a magnet for modern-day explorers who travel to Peru every year to experience one of the most incredible wonders of the world.
Most people who visit Machu Picchu choose the easiest and fastest way to get there….and who can blame them? Usually opting for a train ride that departs from the town of Ollantaytambo, where the Machu Picchu train takes people on a wonderful and scenic ride to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu. From Aguas Calientes, there is a shuttle bus service that takes tourists up the switchback road to the Machu Picchu site itself. These trip will be in itself remarkable and for many a dream trip, a once in a lifetime experience.
I travelled to Peru with my husband Brian, my sister Angelita and her husband Juliano in June 2018. It was our dream to hike the classic 4 days Inca Trail and arrive at Machu Picchu via the Sun Gate.
Unfortunately, when we tried to book it back in January ’18, to hike the trail in June ’18, it was already all fully booked. With the new Peruvian regulations limiting the daily number of people hiking the Inca Trail, places are now going faster than ever and need to be booked 7 to 8 months in advance. In fact the sooner the better, since there is a need for special permits that will be organized by the licensed tour agencies well in advance of the trek starting date. June, July and August is high season for hiking to Machu Picchu and therefore booking well in advance is the best way to avoid disappointment.
Disappointed we looked for alternatives since there are many other great treks to do in this area. The two-day trip, a shorter version of the classic Inca Trail caught our eye since it would give us the chance to arrive at the Machu Picchu ruins via the Sun Gate, something that we felt was important to us.
Some of the other treks we looked at such as the Salkantay, Lares trek, Choquerquirao Trek etc. don’t lead to the Sun Gate, but rather the finishing line is at Aguas Calientes (also called Machu Picchu Pueblo) the town nearest to the Machu Picchu ruins. From there, trekkers will either take the shuttle bus up to the ruins or walk up to the main ticket gates that allow entrance into the Machu Picchu ruins.
The walk up from Aguas Calientes is free and it takes about one and a half hours of quite a steep climb via a stone stepped pathway and, like the bus route, it leads to the main Machu Picchu entrance gate where the right type of ticket will need to be provided to gain entrance to the site.
People visiting Machu Picchu via the main ticket entrance can hike up to the Sun Gate and even experience the sunrise there if they so wish and are physically able to do the one hour hike up there. But for me, there promised to be something magical about seeing Machu Picchu for the first time after a long hike, following the Ancient Trail and entering it through the Sun Gate like the Incas used to do. Appreciating the ruins from this high point takes your breath away, what an incredible place to hide an entire community.
The shorter version of the Inca trail is about 10 km long and covers some of the most beautiful scenery of the Classic four days Inca Trail, minus some of the hardship of cold nights sleeping in damp tents after long exhausting days of trekking up mountains, suffering the effect of high altitude, and enduring the unsavoury bathroom facilities. It consists of one day moderately hard 5 to 6 hours hiking up some steep stone-paved paths, mixed with some more flatter terrain culminating with the arrival at the Sun Gate later in the afternoon. After the trek, it is also included a comfortable stay overnight at a hotel in Aguas Calientes and a return to the Machu Picchu citadel next day for a morning guided tour. It turned out to be the perfect option for us.
The shorter Inca Trail to Machu Picchu – Our Experience
Day One
Our day started early as we were picked up at 5:30 am at our hotel in Cusco. From our hotel our foursome group were driven by taxi for about one and a half hours, seeing dawn break on the stunning countryside, to the town of Ollantaytambo where we boarded the Vistadome train to Machu Picchu. The train ride was very comfortable, with huge windows showcasing the amazing Andean scenery. We were served a choice of hot or cold drinks and some cookies during the journey.
Train to Aguas Calientes
Sitting on the left side of the train and sharing a table between the four of us we had the best views along the banks of the rushing and tumbling Urubamba River to our left, and the snow-capped Andean Mountains overhead glanced every so often through the train’s large Vistadome windows.
We chugged along chatting and appreciating the stunning scenery. Our journey lasted about one hour and a half until the train briefly stopped at Km 104 which felt like the middle of nowhere, there is no train station there. Our group of four and a few others who were not part of our group left the train to start hiking with their respective guides.
Soon after jumping off the train we met our very own guide who would be accompanying our small group of four for the next two days. She was a lovely local woman who spoke to us mostly in Spanish, occasionally in English and of course, she was also fluent in the local Quechua language. She was very knowledgeable about the local culture, history and had many years of experience accompanying tour groups to the Machu Picchu ruins.
After meeting our guide we crossed the bridge over the Urubamba River towards the first checkpoint.
Bridge over the Urubamba River
Passports and permits were shown before we were given access to the start of the trail. There were some toilet facilities at this checkpoint, so we made the most of it since we would not have another chance for some time.
Not long after the start of our trek, we reached the first archaeological site of the day, the ruins of Chachabamba sitting at an altitude of about 2,170 metres. Our guide explained that this site was one of the last shelters that the Incas used before reaching Machu Picchu, it might have been used as a gate-house/guarded entrance to Machu Picchu. It is believed that it also operated as a religious and administrative centre, although there are no certainties about its function since the Incas did not have a written language and hence why there are still so many mysteries surrounding all aspects of their lives.
Chachabamba
Leaving Chachabamba behind we continued our ascent south via the stone laid Inca pathway, including some steep steps that at times disappeared behind the green forest canopy. We crossed a small stream and marvelled at the colourful wildflowers and breathtaking mountain scenery. There were some exposed areas with sheer drops down into the valley. Along the way, we were glad to have a chance to get a rest for a few minutes at two different shelters. We took the opportunity to have a small snack, a cold drink and our guide explained more about the history of our incredible surroundings.
With Angelita, Juliano, myself and Brian resting at one of the shelters along the Inca trail
Eventually, we reached a waterfall. We rested for a while, had a bit more to eat and drink, but decided against having our full lunch there. We carried on and decided to stop for our meal further ahead. It turned out to be a very good decision since when we finally arrived at Wiñay Wayna sitting at about 2,650 meters of altitude, we quickly realised that it would make the perfect and most beautiful lunch spot ever, so we sat down to eat whilst marvelling at our surrounds.
We had the place to ourselves, shared only with some very cute Llamas. Our boxed lunches were provided to us by the tour agency. The lunch consisted of cold fried rice with chicken, fruit juice and some fresh fruit. It was a very simple lunch, but we were all so hungry that we would have eaten insects if we had to. We were very mindful of the ancient site and making sure to take our rubbish with us afterwards.
Wiñay Wayna
Steep steps at Wiñay Wayna
After lunch, we continued our hike upwards and we eventually came to what looked like a campsite, our guide explained that people doing the classic four days Inca Trail would stay overnight at this campsite on day 3. We stopped to use the toilet facilities here, and it made us even more certain that the two-day trek was the best option for us. The small tents and smelly facilities were not something we would have relished. We did not linger for long and carried on towards the checkpoint.
We again had to show our permits and passports at the checkpoint before carrying on for one last push to the Sun Gate. Our guide explained that for the 4-day trekkers this checkpoint would often have very long queues early in the morning, an early start would have to be a must for trekkers to make it to the Sun gate in time for sunrise.
Queuing at this checkpoint in a cold early morning was something she used to particularly hate doing when guiding the four days classic Inca Trek.
Juliano and Lita braving the steep incline
The trail hugs the mountainside via a mossy cloud forest that feels very surreal, and the last steps up were very steep; an almost vertical flight of about 40 to 50 steps. We were feeling pretty tired by this point and it took all of our energy to get to the top.
The final uphill struggle to the Sun Gate
But once at the top, the rewards were incredible. Suddenly the whole of the Machu Picchu Citadel was spread out before us. We had arrived at Intipunku (Sun Gate). Both Angelita and I burst into tears…yes it was that emotional for us, a mixture of relief, exhilaration and a sense of accomplishment. A moment that none of us will ever forget.
Finally arrived at the Sun Gate
After taking our time to experience the views and take some of the obligatory photos at the Sun Gate we started the hike down to the Machu Picchu ruins, an easy descent of about forty-five minutes.
Brian, Lita and Juliano descending from the Sun Gate towards the Machu Picchu ruins
Finally, we reached the ruins of Machu Picchu just before 5 pm, the site was almost deserted of people. We enjoyed taking pictures devoid of the usual photobombers. We could not believe how beautiful the whole site was. Situated in such an amazing location surrounded by the Andean Mountains, no wonder it was hidden from the rest of the world for such a long time.
We all felt that even if the Inca ruins were not there, just the natural beauty of this area would have been enough to take your breath away.
A dream come true for us
But we were not allowed to linger for long or to fully explore the ruins just yet, since the last bus from Machu Picchu down to Aguas Calientes was soon to depart and so we made our way towards the exit. We would return to Machu Picchu with our guide the following morning for a guided tour and exploration.
After arriving at Aguas Calientes our exhausted and hungry group of 4 plus our guide found a nice little restaurant to have dinner and then crash at the very modest but comfortable hotel which was included in the price of our two-day exploring package. Both couples had a bedroom with en-suite facilities.
Day Two
The following day we returned by bus from Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu ruins for some more exploring of the site with our guide who gave us a tour of the most important sectors of the ruins. The weather was not as good as the day before and there were few heavy showers to contain with. But even the rain did not damp our spirits, it was fascinating to explore the ruins and learn more about the Inca citadel.
Inside the Machu Picchu Citadel
Machu Picchu ruins
Our guide explaining the local history
Rain clouds adding to the mystery of this amazing site
Not even the rain could dampen our spirits
We could have done the climb up to the mountain of Huayna Picchu Mountain, but we had decided against it and did not book a ticket, something that has to be done in advance. Just as well since the weather for climbing such a steep mountain would not have been very good.
Brave hikers at the entrance to the Huayna Picchu Mountain . A ticket has to be booked in advance for the climb up and there is a choice of doing a morning climb or an afternoon climb.
We caught the train back to Cusco later in the afternoon and spent the night at the same hotel we had stayed previously, where they had held most of our luggage for us. The following day we travelled by bus to Puno, for the next leg of our journey.
Tips for doing the shorter hike to Machu Picchu
If you enjoy hiking and are able to do so you are in for a treat. But if you are more of a hardcore thru-hiker or you have your heart set on doing the four days classic Inca Trek this shorter version with a comfortable overnight hotel stay might not be for you. If you are short on time or like us have not managed to book yourself into the Classic four days Inca Trek, this alternative shorter trek could be a good option for you, without feeling you have compromised too much.
Our Machu Picchu Trek was booked and paid (a deposit) for online six months in advance after we contacted the trekking agency via email. We chose a local company called Inka treks and were very happy with our option, it is nice to put money into the pockets of local companies rather than large multinationals – something we always make the point of doing whenever possible and have done it throughout our recent travels.
The travel trekking agency owner spoke very good English, he came to our hotel in Cusco two days before the trek to explain all about our two-day adventure, he was very friendly and helpful with all our questions. We even booked another tour around the Sacred Valley after our arrival in Cusco with him.
The trek cost us a total of US$ 450 per person; we paid 200 dollars per person as a deposit back in January to secure the bookings and we paid the balance of 250 dollars per person a day before the trek. The price included pick up at our hotel in Cusco with a transport to the train station of Ollantaytambo, a guide for the entire two days journey, all the permits and tickets for the Camino Inca and Machu Picchu ruins, breakfast (1), lunch(1), dinner(1), hotel overnight stay at Aguas Calientes, all transport such as train, bus, taxi from the moment you are picked up at your hotel in Cusco and return back to Cusco.
More info at info@inkatreks.com. Please note that this is not a sponsored post and it is also not a recommendation, just sharing the company we have used and we were very satisfied with the services offered. I recommend that you do your own research to find a company that you feel happy to use.
Don’t forget your passport, you are going to need it at all the trail checkpoints and to gain entrance to Machu Picchu. If like me you have renewed your passport soon after booking the Inca Trek, do make sure you bring your old passport with you since the passport number will not be the same as the old one or alternatively you can bring a copy of your old passport. In my case luckily I had a picture of my old passport on my phone…it saved the day.
Make sure you have sturdy hiking shoes, plenty of water, mosquito repellent, sun hat, sun cream, rainproof clothing, dress in layers since it will be cold, hot, humid on the trail and choose a very light backpack to carry it all…every extra and not needed item will weigh you down. We all used hiking poles and have to say we find them incredibly helpful, saving ankles and knees especially when you trip or stumble. It’s not a particularly tough hike, but it’s several hours of moderate incline and with the altitude, you will find yourselves breathing heavily for a lot of the way. There are a few exposed places but nothing too precipitous, and even Angelita who is very scared of heights was able to make it through, driven on by the thought of what was ahead.
Our hotel in Cusco kept hold of most of our luggage until our return to Cusco, most hotels/hostels are happy to store your stuff for you. Upon return to Cusco we stayed overnight again in the same hotel we had stayed before. We left mid-morning next day on a bus to Puno and the next leg of our three weeks trip.
The entire three weeks trip around Peru was organized by ourselves, we booked internal flights, hostels and our Machu Picchu Trek many months in advance, but we left other treks, tours, and between places bus journeys to book after our arrival at each location and we did not encounter any problems with doing some last minute bookings. Speaking Spanish is helpful, but not essential. Google translator can be very helpful if you don’t speak Spanish.
Peruvians are extremely friendly and we encountered only helpful and good people during our journey. We took the same travel security precautions that we would take when travelling anywhere in the world and we found Peru to be a safe country to travel around.
We left Peru after three fantastic weeks of exploring and headed to Mexico, where we met up with our lovely daughter Chloe. The three of us stayed at a gorgeous Airbnb property in Playa Del Carmen….but more on that at my next post.