About
Hello!
Since reaching a certain “milestone age”… don’t ask… I have found myself feeling a great sense of urgency to make lifestyle changes that would better suit this stage of my life.
Time is ticking faster than ever and it has now become a priority to ensure I use my time wisely pursuing those long-awaited dreams…you know the ones on the “maybe I will do that one day” list. Well, I have now taken early retirement from a job I loved to search for adventure. I feel the
Luang Prabang has often been described as enigmatic, spiritual, and sophisticated. The former Laos Royal capital is certainly no ordinary town. This UNESCO protected gem of a place grabbed our hearts from the minute we stepped out of our two-day slow boat trip down the Mekong River. There is a unique vibe here which is difficult to describe or even pinpoint, it goes far beyond any mediocre description. A romantic place, offering a seamless blend of ancient Asian flavors, religion,
Cruising along the mysterious Mekong River on a slow boat from the Laos border town of Huay-Xai down to Luang Prabang has been one of the highlights of our travels through Laos. From the Tibetan Plateau, the Mekong River crosses the borders of SE Asian countries such as China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, flowing towards the China Sea. Our floating vessel was a traditional, long and narrow, wooden boat that quietly glided right on the surface of the water, making us feel like we could just stretch our arms over and touch the water.
The Mekong river has shaped Laos and its people who use it as a source of food, and a highway for transporting goods up and down its 1,240 miles long course through the heart of the country. The river is worshipped by the Lao people as it is believed to have the power to dispense prosperity or even to be the cause of cruel calamities.
We are just a few days into our 10 weeks backpacking trip in SE Asia, the previous night was spent at a very comfortable and friendly guest house at the border town of Chiang Khong in Northern Thailand, making our crossing into Laos a very easy affair. Our guest house owner kindly gave us a lift to the Thai-Lao border control point in the early morning. From the guesthouse, it was just a 15 minutes drive through a shortcut that she regularly uses.
Border Crossing Formalities
At the Thai checkpoint entrance, we got hold of the necessary forms for our entry into Laos.
There was a desk there and someone to answer any questions and help us with filling in the forms, although the forms were very straightforward to understand. You are asked to provide the usual information such as passport number, country of issue, expiry date, nationality, etc (remember to take a pen with you). We had to fill in two forms, one of the forms was on both sides. Our passport size photos were then stapled to the form.
After we filled in the forms, we joined a small queue to be stamped out of Thailand (since this is the Thai border), and here you also hand over the little ticket/piece of paper you got when you first entered Thailand.
We then all boarded a bus that drove us over the bridge and into the Laos immigration side. Our tour guide from “Shompoo Cruises” was waiting for us at this Lao- border crossing point. He got hold of our luggage and pointed us towards window number 1.
At window 1, we handed over our passport + the filled-in forms with photo.
At window 2, we collected our passports with the visa.
Finally, at window 3 we paid for our visa to enter Laos (visa prices vary depending on what country you come from), with a UK passport we paid U$ 35 each (January 2020). Welcome to Laos!!
Our Slow Boat Trip To Luang Prabang – Day one
Once the whole group had finished with the immigration formalities, our cruise guide took us all by mini-van to a small port by the Mekong River, where our cruise boat had been waiting for us.
Our cruising boat was beautiful, spacious, very comfortable, and spotlessly clean. We were asked to remove our shoes at the door, flipflops were allowed.
There were 26 of us on board, but the boat had room for over 40 people, so we all got very comfortable with window seats and a table. The longboat had areas for relaxing, a few seats at the front of the boat, and a few at the back. There was a small kitchen at the back and bar area in the middle of the boat, with as much as you want tea, coffee, and water on offer (you had to pay extra to drink beer, but it was very cheap). There were also two spotlessly clean toilets. At this stage, we both felt really happy with our choice of cruising company.
Soon after our departure the tour guide, Sommay, introduced himself and explained all about the day ahead. He spoke very good English, albeit with a strong accent. He told us about the different Laos tribes and about his own tribe the Khmu. There are 49 recognized ethnicities consisting of over 160 ethnic groups in Laos. The official language is Lao, although there are many other tribal languages. The French language once commonly used by government and business has significantly declined, whilst the knowledge of English has increased. He was keen to teach us some words in Lao…it did not take long for us to grasp how to say thank you… “Khop jai” or “Khop jai lai lai” or “Khop jai deu”- for thank you very much. We were good students and learned fast.
Our cruising guide, Sommay, accompanied us for the entire 2 days journey.
Map of our route along the Mekong River displayed on the boat (see pale blue line), from Houey Xay to Luang Prabang, with an overnight stay in Pakbeng.
The views along the river were gorgeous, we floated past sparsely populated areas, small villages, white sandy beaches, giant granite rocks formations, lush green vegetation including many palm and banana trees, giving it a tropical feel. There were also mountains in the distance and people panning for gold along the shores of the Mekong River. From a distance we observed life going on, as it has done every day for centuries, fisherman hooking up their lines or spreading out their fishing nets. Water-buffalos were another common sighting, even though, as our guide explained these animals are expensive to buy and worth a thousand dollars each, we could spot many along the river.
Every now and again we were reminded of why ours was described as the slow boat as a tiny longtail speedboat would scream past – on the same route as us but doing in a few hours what we would do in two days. Judging by the miserable faces of the dozen or so passengers huddled on the screaming missile as it hammered by, it was cold and uncomfortable and a million miles from the comfort we were experiencing.
I sat for a while alongside our boat Capitan, who in spite of his young looks, had an incredible knowledge of these, at times, treacherous waters. I noticed how he surrounded himself with Buddha images and offerings, I guess all here to offer him and the boat crew some kind of protection. But what reassured me the most, was his amazing skills at steering this longboat along the river, without any sophisticated navigation gadgets, he held onto the steering wheel with such confidence. I noticed the fast pace of change from calm to fast river waters, through narrow passages, many hazardous rock formations, and plenty of other large vessels navigating in the opposite direction. He knows this river like the back of his hand, it was mesmerizing to watch him.
Sitting with the boat Captain…I am so envious of those cheekbones.
We passed alongside many other strange-looking boats and large vessels.
We were served an absolutely delicious meal, which was particularly impressive, considering the size of the kitchen and the lack of cooking appliances. All freshly cooked and served by the crew. The food was laid out like a buffet, with a long-serving table at both sides of the boat, and there was plenty for everyone, including vegetarian options. By the time lunch was served we were all very hungry and it did not take long for the buffet to be totally devoured.
Delicious Lao food, the little banana leaves parcels are steamed fish in a coconut sauce.
After lunch, we got plenty of time to relax and even have a nap, before we got to our first destination. Our journey down the river was broken at a little Khmu village, perched up above the Mekong River.
We arrive bearing gifts for the small village.
We disembarked bearing gifts and the children of the village came over to give us a warm welcome. We walked along the shores, towards some steps and a path leading up to a steep sandy hill. At the top, there were just a few bamboo houses, with no electricity, no running water, no wifi connection, no phone lines, no mobile signal. A place stuck in a time warp, people living a very simple life, a hand to mouth existence, and very much dependent on what the land and river can give them, relying on their hard work and each other.
A simple bamboo house, little home comforts, but with amazing views over the Mekong River.
We noticed that some of the children were not at school, they were busy working and helping the adults with daily tasks.
The steep path up to the village school.
Village school.
We unveiled the gifts and the kids gathered curiously around us.
We made our way up passing by the few little bamboo houses, chickens, and pigs roaming freely, and the children looking at us like we were from another planet. Later on, our guide explains that they don’t actually receive many visitors.
At the very top of the hill, we arrived at their little bamboo school. The Shompoo Cruises company uses some of their profits to make donations to the village, this time they are giving a much-needed water fountain and filtering system so the children can drink clean water. Our group also donates pencils and copy books. This little classroom is open to the elements, with just a tin roof and no windows. The kids differ in age, but there is only one teacher who tries hard to cater to all the different abilities. They learn to speak the official Lao language (since at home they speak a Khmu dialect), writing and reading. Our guide Sommay explains that some of the kids only attend school for a few hours a day since they have to help out with chores.
One of the ladies in our group had few packets of cookies, but sadly not enough for all the children. Only half of the children were able to enjoy the cookies, something that we all felt very uncomfortable about. We also donated some much-needed money to the village. We thought this visit would feel a little voyeuristic and pointless, but we were wrong. The kids enjoyed the visit and benefited from the donations. Although if we were to visit again we would make sure to take enough gifts such as plenty of schooling materials, sweets, biscuits, etc for all the kids.
Our guide, Sommay, explains that this village had not had a chance of receiving visitors in the past since most cruise companies stop at other villages instead, such as the Hmong communities, but since he has joined the Shompoo Cruises company just two months ago he has ensured that this tribe can also benefit from these visits. They are very poor and need all the help they can get, the adults work beating and then sun drying some sort of plant stems that are later made into sweeping brushes. It is a very rural and remote existence, and the little school that caters for all ages is all they have as far as education is concerned.
Our guide later told us he is also a Khmu and comes from a similar village. His brothers all ended up leaving home and going to live in a monastery. By becoming a novice Monk, they had a better chance of getting a good education. It was at a Monastery in Luang Prabang that he learned to speak English and later found jobs in the tourism industry. Now aged 34 he is ready to get married. He explained to us that his future bride has to be from the same tribe (Khmu) to be accepted by the family. They can’t marry people from a different tribe. His bride to be is just 18 years old and he has only met her once. The marriage has been arranged between his family and the bride’s family. He hopes that they will be married by the end of the year.
After such an eventful day, we arrived at Pakbeng, a small town that caters to cruise companies. There were hotels, guest houses, and a few restaurants there, but not much else. We stayed overnight in a little guest house just up the hill from where our boat docked. Across the road from us, there was a good Indian restaurant, where we had our dinner before retiring early and exhausted to our comfortable bed. We asked the Indian owner how he ended up in such a remote place and he told us that Laos was very business-friendly, much easier to set up and get operating permits than in neighbouring Thailand.
Our slow boat to Luang Prabang – day two
We woke up early at around 6:45 am to eat a simple, but satisfying hotel breakfast, before getting back on the boat at around 7:30 am. It was a very fresh morning, temperatures had plummeted significantly through the night and there was even some fog surrounding the river. We were so glad to be wearing warm clothes, including a fleece jacket and long trousers and although the boat did provide a blanket, it was not enough to keep us warm.
It was another day of impressive scenery along the Mekong river, and as we got closer to our destination of Luang Prabang the mountains in the distance were getting more impressive. We relaxed into the slow rhythms of the Mekong, chatting to fellow passengers and watched the river panorama unfold before our eyes.
Lunch was again delicious. After lunch we arrived at our first stop for the day:
Pak Ou Caves
There are many caves around these cliffs, but two caves that stand out the most are clearly carved into the limestone cliff, we could see them as we approached the small boat docking area. Pak Ou means the mouth of the river Ou, the Tham Ting is the lower cave and the Tham Theung is the upper cave.
The first cave is seen here, the second cave is up to the left and up along the white-washed steps.
The caves are filled with hundreds of Buddha statues of all sizes, standing or lying down in various different positions, including meditation, teaching and, reclining (nirvana). Some of the little statues have missing hands or a chipped face, the imperfections making them even more interesting to see.
Access to the upper cave is via a whitewashed stone zigzagging staircase
Before their discovery by outsiders, the contents at Pak Ou’s caves were worshiped on an annual basis during the Laotian New Year. Buddhists would come to bathe and tend to the Buddha statues in the caves in hopes of receiving good luck in the coming year. Now it is a busy tourist destination, where locals sell all kinds of crafts, food and even some tiny little birds kept in very small vine weaved cages. The idea is for tourists to buy the little caged birds and release them afterward. Not something that we were keen to partake with. Nice to set one free, not so nice to reward the original capture and ensure the cycle repeats.
Rice whisky destilery
Our second stop of the day was at a Lao whiskey distillery called Lao-Lao. The strange brew was poured from a bottle containing a dead snake. Brian was brave enough to try… being Scottish he was keen to find out if it was from a good vintage. But his face said it all, the eye-watering concoction was more like a stinging nettle than smooth malted barley. I decided to pass.
Lao-Lao Whiskey
The Lao whiskey was not to my taste, but the next door textile exhibits were beautiful. Stunning colors combining cotton and silk creations. My only problem was the lack of space in my luggage and Brian hurrying me along from the tempting stalls.
Luang Prabang finally appeared in the late afternoon of day two. Our wooden boat moored at a little harbor by the banks of the river, and we climbed out and up some stone steps. At the top, there was some commotion of people coming and going. Our guide hails us a vehicle, a type of songtaew and we are soon on our way to the hotel. There is an aroma of fresh flowers in the air, and we see orange-robed monks walking along the pavement happily chatting to each other, there are French Colonial houses giving a sense of European nostalgia. As the golden hour approaches the town is coming to life.
We can’t wait to explore, but that is a story for another blog post.
Tips for your slow boat trip.
Visa – you get the visa into Laos on arrival, just make sure to have enough (cash) dollars to pay for the visa, and bring a passport photo.
Cash– You can get Laos Kip at the border control point, In the entrance, before Thai immigration, there is both an ATM and a currency exchange desk. There is also an ATM and currency exchange desk on the Laos side, after going through immigration.
Cruise Company– There are many different options, including official public boats, but remember you get what you paid for. We booked our cruise online with Shompoo Cruises and were more than happy with our choice, but note that they don’t sail every day. There are cheaper options, but they often don’t include food and drinks (ours included a delicious hot meal on both cruising days and as much water, tea and coffee as you wanted). Some of the cheaper boat options in high season can get crowded and they might also stop along the way to pick up locals. Therefore, do your research.
Accommodation
We are living through such strange times; the world has not lived through a major pandemic for more than a hundred years and here we are experiencing something extraordinary. Our lives in lockdown feel at times totally surreal like we are just taking part in an eery film or a really scary dream, nothing feels real. We step outside our homes to walk on roads devoided of the usual chaotic traffic, town centers that are deserted, shops, and restaurants closed.
What is even more incredible about
Writing about travelling and travel plans changes seems trivial when the world is facing a “health war” against an invisible enemy. The impact of this worldwide coronavirus pandemic on our little travel plans pales into insignificance when every news headline tells a tale of disruption, significant increase in associated mortality rates, and a disaster for the world economy. The travel industry as a whole has been badly affected, and for us as individuals being a traveller is fast becoming a very hazardous if not an impossible activity.
Countries are closing their borders, amid fears of a virus that is invisibly carried around by people and passed on to the next person with an alarming contamination rate causing the COVID-19 respiratory illness that although not usually a fatal disease, can became serious enough to cause death in some more vulnerable people. The death toll is rising across the world and most importantly national health systems may not cope with the potentially vast number of seriously ill people. We hear words such as “flattening the curve” by health experts and world leaders, who are frantically trying to come up with solutions.
Backpacking in South East Asia
Back in early January 2020, when we set off on a 10 week backpacking trip in SE Asia, we read a few reports of a certain coronavirus that was causing a respiratory illness in a certain Chinese town. As our trip progressed we met travellers who had been teaching English in China and who were concerned about returning to the country after their holiday. Friends and family expressed some concern about our travels, and urged us to keep an eye on the news and perhaps even change our travel plans. But since we were not going to visit China on this trip, we felt there was no need to make any travel plan changes.
Enjoying the freedom and ease of backpacking in SE Asia.
Fast forward a few weeks later and we noticed a huge change in the numbers of tourists travelling in SE Asia, most notably the Chinese and South Koreans were no longer travelling and many places were banning Chinese tourists altogether. We reached Vietnam in early March, the last country we would be exploring before returning home, and it soon became clear to us that things would take a turn for the worse, as far as the coronavirus risks were concerned and travelling would became a very tricky and undesirable activity.
Travelling in Vietnam
In Ho Chi Minh City, life was going on as normal, although tourist numbers were starting to decline. We enjoyed our stay and managed to visit most of the main attractions without any issues. We moved on to Hoi An and enjoyed 5 nights in the charming, lantern-illuminated town of Central Vietnam. Here we met up with blogging friends Ben and Peta (www.greenglobaltrek.com) who took us on a wonderful street food crawl experience that was a huge highlight of our travels in this region.
Fabulous food crawl in Hoi An, with travel blog friends Peta and Ben (www.greenglobaltrek.com)
Moving on to Hue and concerns about coronavirus contamination started to grow, we noticed the continuing decline in tourist numbers.
A few days later, we arrived in the Province of Ninh Binh in Northern Vietnam amid rumours of closed guest houses, people being taken into quarantine, closed restaurants and closed attractions.
Wearing a face mask became the “new normal”.
Our temperature was monitored for the first time, before entering an attraction, and we were asked to wear our face masks all the time now. The town was fast becoming more like a ghost town than a tourist destination.
On our last evening in town, as we were having dinner at our guest house, new guests arrive. As they disembark their van, they march towards our dinning table shouting “we are NOT Chinese, we are from Taiwan”…we laughed it off, thinking how bizarre that they felt the need to tell us that.
Hanoi
We left for Hanoi and booked ourselves into a lovely hotel at the Old Quarter. At the hotel check in, there were some health forms to fill in (something that was never required beforehand), we also had to provide details of every hotel we have stayed at since entering Vietnam. Our temperature was taken again, and we both looked at each other anxiously and finally with great relief when we were told that it was all ok.
We made the most of our 3 nights stay in Hanoi, meeting up with some lovely friends from the Netherlands we had met in Ninh Binh and who were also staying in a hotel very near us.
Dinning with our friends from the Netherlands.
But it soon became clear to us that we needed a change of plan. All Hanoi attractions were now closed; restaurants were starting to close, or refusing to serve us foreigners. Our two night Halong Bay cruise had been cancelled since the Halong Bay Marina was now closed down by the Vietnamese Government. At first we thought we would just spend the last week in Hanoi, seeing the sights there, but soon found them all to be closed, so we had to think again. We needed to get out of Vietnam sooner rather than later, so we changed our flights and headed for Thailand, where we are still waiting for our flight home.
Changes of travel plans.
All over the world people are changing their travel plans. Our daughter was due to travel to Vietnam on March 20th, but her tour has now been cancelled. She is still waiting to hear about getting her money back.
It was our intention to spend the Spring travelling around Europe, particularly Italy, by motorhome. But with most countries in Europe now in complete lockdown because of the coronavirus pandemic, this plan is no longer an option.
We also thought of touring around the UK with our motorhome, but as we listen to the news here in our hotel room in Thailand it is becoming very clear to us that even leaving our home to go for a walk in the park is likely to be a problem, never mind travelling around the country.
Our immediate plans now are simply to go home and same as everyone else hope that this crisis will be over sooner rather than later.
We feel very sad for all the people who have or will lose their lives and/or have been adversely affected by this pandemic. In particular, we really feel for all the lovely people we have met along the way in the tourism industry; taxi drivers, boat rowers, restaurant staff, and the many lovely families running small homestay hotels, who made us feel so welcome and could not do enough to make our stays so enjoyable.
You can’t help wondering what such a dramatic and prolonged plunge in their incomes could do to their futures. We have become accustomed in the Rich West to various social safety-nets to protect us in times of hardship, but there are few if any such backstops in these countries and some very lovely, very hard-working people are going to have a very tough time. That is hard to swallow. I don’t think anyone could have predicted the recent developments and/or how long it is going to last.
Meanwhile lets all keep practicing the new “social distance” recommendations, stop “panic buying” toilet paper, remembering “no touching our faces” and of course…washing our hands. I shall be sharing more about our 10 weeks’ travelling in SE Asia in the coming weeks, particularly since our self quarantine on return to the UK is likely to be VERY boring. Just as well I have not changed the name of this travel blog, since I have became once again a “traveller interrupted”, joking apart…STAY SAFE EVERYONE!