Santiago De Compostela – Wishing We Were Pilgrims
Every year thousands of people walk many miles from all corners of Europe on a pilgrimage like no other, to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. The “Camino de Santiago” is possibly the world’s most famous pilgrimage and one that we have been wishing to walk for many years. This pilgrimage has existed for over one thousand years, along many different routes and all culminate at Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain.
The American film “The Way”, directed by Emilio Estevez catapulted the already famous pilgrimage into the limelight.
Wishing we were pilgrims, we sat for ages in front of the vast Plaza de Obradoiro, overlooking the stunning Santiago Cathedral, where a reliquary is believed to hold the remains of St James the Apostle. We sat watching with great interest and amusement the many pilgrims arriving at their final destination.They had walked the ancient steps, following the yellow arrow and the Scallop Shell signs significantly placed along the way pointing pilgrims towards Santiago.
Plaza de Obradoiro, overlooking the stunning Santiago Cathedral
Their faces showing a sense of achievement, of something very special that has been accomplished… they might not have held a Christian faith (not all pilgrims walking the “Camino” are Christians), but they nevertheless would have spent the last few weeks believing that whatever happens, the “Camino” would provide. Each with their questions, wishes or just driven by a challenge that had to be overcome.
There is a very unique atmosphere in this place, and the sound of a Galician bagpipe covers the area with a longing and magical sound. Pilgrims congregate here as they arrive heavily loaded with their backpacks, teary-eyed, meeting up with other fellow walkers, excitedly exchanging stories, hugging each other like long lost relatives.
The energy of this place is palpable.
We spotted many peregrinos around the city, carrying heavy backpacks. On the back of their backpacks the symbolic Scallop Shell dangling proudly. Apparently the significance of the Scallop Shell sign is that the ridges/grooves of the shell represent all the different “Camino” routes that can be walked or sometimes even cycled by the pilgrims across Europe.
This sign is seen in many places across Northern Spain, pointing the pilgrims towards Santiago de Compostela
On our first day of exploring we joined a free walking tour (a tip is expected at the end of the tour) with a great local guide giving us a brilliant introduction to the city and its history.
The huge Santiago Cathedral has been undergoing renovations for a few years now and although some of the altar pieces and art work was wrapped up or covered in building work dust, it was still amazing to visit. Inside the Cathedral was very quiet during our visit, and it was possible to take our time in silent contemplation of the special atmosphere. We stood gawping at the silver reliquary where the remains of St. James are reported to be resting. Inside a small dark passage there is a gleaming 13th century statue of St. James, and we climbed the stairs behind the altar to see the statue. Peregrinos usually like to kiss his mantle for good luck, we settled with giving it a hug.
Inside the Cathedral a silver reliquary is securely held behind locked iron bars, where the remains of St. James are reported to be resting.
It was also fascinating to visit the Cathedral’s Museum and treasury and discover more about the incredible 12th century carvings and work of Master Mateo. The Cathedral is in itself a masterpiece of architecture with a Baroque façade.
Amazing carvings at the Cathedral’s Museum and Treasure
Unfortunately the famous “Botafumeiro” ( the huge incense burning holder that is swung over head during some of the mass ceremonies) was out of action due to also being under renovation.
We got lost walking around the old town which has a medieval feel, with old stone buildings, pedestrianized streets, little alleyways, small squares with cafes and restaurants spilling their tables into the outdoors.
There are no shortage of great places to eat delicious Galician fare, so we tried a few. The network of narrow lanes near the Cathedral such as Rúa do Franco, Rúa da Raiña and Rúa do Vilar have many cafes, tapas bars and restaurants. Just walking up and down, checking out what is on offer can very interesting.
This tiny road has only room for one person at the time
We also enjoyed vising the food market: Mercado de Abastos which has a variety of local produce on offer.
We lucked out with the weather, the famous Galician rain stayed away during our three days stay and we enjoyed glorious sunshine and warm temperatures. It was magical to sit outdoors, enjoying coffee and cake at the square next to the Cathedral and marvel at the fabulous old buildings surrounding us.
We loved this outdoors café next to the Cathedral.
We also strolled along the main city park, Parque da Alameda where a bronze statue of the two Mary’s by sculptor César Lombera is a famous landmark. These two eccentric sisters where often seen at this very spot during the 1950’s and 60’s wearing bright colours and over the top make up, flirting with the young university students who would be coming out of classes at two o’clock in the afternoon for their lunch break. The statues get new clothes painted every so often, another quirky idea that makes this city so interesting.
The famous two Mary’s have just had new clothes painted.
There are great views of the Santiago Cathedral from Parque da Alameda, from where pilgrims entering Santiago de Compostela will be greeted with a glimpse of the famous Cathedral.
Views from Parque da Alameda
Santiago de Compostela is a city devoted to an incredible pilgrimage, but being here as non-pilgrims feels every bit as special and welcoming. Brian said it was his favourite city on the whole trip, he just loved the amazing old town and the buzz of the pilgrims reaching their destination after weeks and weeks of hard toil.
“I promise to be a pilgrim next time”
We do plan to return to Santiago de Compostela next year to visit it again, but our aim then will be to arrive on foot and see it like so many do as a welcoming destination after many days spent walking the “Camino”…we shall then became pilgrims at last.
Gilda, I am following two Bloggers who both just finished pilgrimages. Patti and Aby at One Road at a Time, and Donna at Retirement Reflections. Check them out, if you haven’t already. Their experiences were very different, but inspiring. I love that last picture of you looking up at the cross. I think you will keep that promise and I will be reading about your journey next year!
Suzanne, I am glad you have faith in my promise and I hope you are right. I know Patti and Abi have just done it for the second time. They are an amazing couple. I must check out Donna’s blog and read about her experience on the “Camino”. Thank you for your support 🙂
A great post. Although I live in Spain, I have yet to visit this city. I believe it would be just as amazing, even if you are not a pilgrim. The feeling would still be there. I have a friend who has walked the camino three times already. There are so many amazing places to see in Spain.
Darlene, Santiago de Compostela in spite of this great pilgrimage is a wonderful travelling destination in its own right. It is beautiful and I think you would love it there. Spain has a lot to offer, there are so many great places to explore, the choices are sometimes overwhelming. I am not surprised your friend has done the “Camino” three times, there are so many different routes that each pilgrimage would feel very different. I hope to be fit enough and able to do it next year 🙂
I can feel the inspiration and excitement through your post Gilda. As I mentioned on Facebook, right about the time you were there, a friend of mine finished the pilgrimage. She did it solo and is my age. An astounding accomplishment. I will look forward to following you as you make the pilgrimage next year!
Sue, definitely a great accomplishment for your friend doing it solo. I hope Brian and I will be able to do it next year, we have been planning it for ages, but somehow it has eluded us for years. But I am a great believer that things happen when they are meant to happen 🙂
Reading this post brought back fond memories of arriving exausted yet triumphant at this incredible historic city as a peregrina. You captured the essence of this place so well. I loved your photo with that vibrant green top with the colourful sisters. Can’t wait to hear your insights when you walk the camino.
Val, I remember well how important doing the “Camino” was for you and Paul. I thought of you as I sat there in front of the Cathedral and I did try to imagine how you two must have felt finally achieving your goal. It is a very special place, I am glad you have enjoyed the post and it has brought back good memories 🙂
I will never forget arriving at Santiago with a peregrino passports fully stamped along the many miles we walked. It was thrilling going to the office to get our certificates with all the other happy peregrinos.
I’m sure you follow Cathy at Wander.essence, too. It’s quite an accomplishment, solo, isn’t it? But of the several people I know who’ve done it, I don’t know anyone with real regrets. That says something, doesn’t it? I’d love to see the city. 🙂 🙂
Jo, like you I know so many people who have done it…I have never heard of anyone who has regretted doing it…in fact people regret not doing it. I think you would love Santiago de Compostela, even as a non-pilgrim it is a beautiful city to explore.
One of our favorite cities! We keep returning, twice by foot, once by train. When arriving by foot there is a much more profound appreciation, of course. I hope you do walk your Camino. I think everyone should take a long walk at least once in their lifetime.
Patti, Santiago de Compostela is now one of our favourite cities also. I remember well your first “Camino” and then doing it again recently, you and Abi are an inspiration. I love hiking, so I think doing this pilgrimage should suit me…at least I do hope so 🙂
Love the history of the “Camino”. A few years back we noticed the clam tiles in Bilbao, Spain. Thanks for the Tour of Santiago de Compostela
Dave, like you I love all the history behind this great pilgrimage. It is over one thousand years old, quite amazing. We found the Scallop Shell signs of the “Camino” all over Northern Spain. Some friends of ours have done it by Bicycle…would you and Sue fancy that?
That’s a very impressive Cathedral. I remember “The Way”, great movie except for the bitchy woman who played the Canadian. I very much doubt a Canadian would ever act the way she did. But anyway, seeing the movie I understood why these people did the walk, even if not religious. I’m not at all…but it’s something I’d love to do one day with Lissette. Maybe….
After seeing the movie, I really wanted to do it, but for one reason or another it was not possible. Since visiting Santiago de Compostela, Brian and I are seriously considering doing the “Camino” in September 2020, although not for religious reasons. Maybe we will see you and Lissette on “The Way”?
Santiago de Compostela is one of the cities I would like to visit. Yes, even doing the whole pilgrim tour – if I ever get time… Lovely images and story, once again.
Otto, this city has an incredible vibe. Not only because of the “peregrinos” that arrive here daily, but also the cobbled streets and old building are full of charm. The Santiago Cathedral at Plaza de Obradoiro is stunning, we sat at the plaza for ages just people watching, it was fascinating. Doing the “Camino” pilgrimage was on our travel plans for September/2020, but we don’t think it will be possible, so maybe next year? I hope you will find time to do the pilgrimage, some people do just the final 100 km, I think that could also be really interesting and less time consuming.