Tobago: Why We Returned For a Third Visit
Our recent trip to Tobago was our third visit to this little Caribbean Island, just off the coast of Venezuela, having visited previously in 2013 and 2015. Combined our three visits have afforded us five weeks of exploring this beautiful Island.
Why returning to an Island we have already visited twice, when there are so many other Caribbean Islands to experience? Or indeed a whole world out there still to explore?
There is a long and convoluted answer to this question, but to keep things simple Tobago feels like an old friend, somewhere we already know we love. For this trip, we split our stay between one week at the Coco Reef Hotel on a bed and breakfast basis, and we rented a three bedroom villa via Airbnb at Blackrock for our second week where our son James and his girlfriend Robyn joined us.
I have made a short list of what is so lovable about this island …..in our opinion.
What we love about Tobago
Jamie and Robyn in front of one of our favourite restaurants at Castara. It is just a shack by the seafront, but the food is yummy and the views to die for.
Authenticity
Tobago feels very authentic Caribbean, for a variety of reasons mass tourism has not yet quite arrived in Tobago. There are no large International resorts in the Island (yet), although there are talks of Sandal’s Resorts to open in Tobago on the Golden Grove and Buccoo Estates at the South-West end of the Island. But for the time being Tobago remains the best-kept secret of the Caribbean, totally free from the selfie-stick brandishing tourists and from the spring-breakers crowd that tend to plague some of the other more popular Caribbean Islands. During our two weeks visit, we found Tobago to be a bit too quiet even and we had the Island practically to ourselves due to a combination of visiting it during low season and the current downtrend in tourism levels.
It is a very colourful nation, they love bright colours for their house, clothes, furniture, costume jewellery etc.
Bright colours everywhere
The people
We found the locals to be very friendly and fun, the whole Island has a very laid back and intimate feel. Particularly in the North of the Island, the small fishing communities where everyone greets you with a smile. But even in the more popular and lively South West, we found people to be very open and friendly. We talked to some entrepreneurial young people starting up a new business, such as the small food stall open just two weeks ago at Mount Irvine Beach. He opened the business with his mother who does most of the cooking, and he looks after the customers with great enthusiasm and charm.
The food
A diverse mix of African Creole, Indian and even Chinese influences. There are no large food chain restaurants, we found mostly independent, family-run restaurants. Small food stalls, beach bars that also serve local freshly cooked food. Some of the places don’t even have a menu. The waiter tells you what is available, usually something with chicken, goat or fish that will come with rice, potatoes and local vegetables currently in season. All cooked to perfection with unique Caribbean flavours. For a small Island, there are a lot of good food options in all different price ranges. We paid on average of £20 per person when eating on the top restaurants in the South of the Island, or as little as £3 pp for the local fayre at food stalls.
Some of the local dishes include callaloo (a sort of coconut and spinach soup), curried crab and dumpling, chicken pelau (slow cooked chicken with coconut, spices and rice), roti (a thick curry of chickpea and potato with either beef, chicken, shrimp or goat, wrapped in a kind of flour tortilla). Roti has to be Tobago’s best “fast food”, it is cheap and delicious…but do watch out for small bones that are often cooked with the chicken and goat meat.
Some of our favourite restaurants in the South of the Island are: The Fish Pot at Pleasant Prospect – it is a Tobago institution. Also the lovely Seahorse Inn at Grafton Beach Road another long established and popular restaurant it serves high-quality food at reasonable prices. But don’t miss out on a great curry at Bagos at Crown Point, this seafront shack/sunset bar is the authentic Caribbean, don’t be put off by the plastic tables and chairs…the setting is gorgeous, the owner Shirley is extremely friendly and welcoming, we loved it so much that we went there many times for sunset drinks and food.
Bagos at Crown Point, our favourite sunset bar
Roti is the best “value” meal of the Island……Tobago’s fast food.
Small food stalls at Store Bay serving budget-friendly meals such as Roti and curried crab and dumpling.
Shrimp curry
The beaches
There are many to choose from, white sand, clear and warm turquoise water. Great for water activities such as snorkelling, kayaking, windsurfing, SUP, diving, fishing etc.
In the south of the Island, our favourite beaches are Pidgeon Point, Mount Irvine and Black Rock. In the North, we love Castara, Englishman’s Bay, Parlauvier, Charlottesville and Pirate’s Bay, but don’t take my word for it – go to visit them all. The whole Island is very accessible, you are never more than an hour to an hour and a half from anywhere. We rented a car from the ever friendly and efficient KCNN for our two-week stay; petrol is cheap and driving is the same as back at home…on the right side.
Pidgeon Point
View of Parlauvier from “Glasgow Bar”……Scotish Robyn felt at home here.
Brian, James and Robyn waiting for our meal to arrive at our favourite restaurant in Castara
The wildlife
Pristine, lush natural beauty, this Island is home to some amazing wildlife. Tobago is home to the oldest protected rainforests in the Western world, with its unique tropical fauna and flora. Tobago is a bird watchers’ paradise, along with big-sister Trinidad it is a heaven for some incredible species of birds.
Sorry…don’t know your name, maybe a mot-mot?
We had just watched him stalk and catch a little crab, still in his beak
There are great efforts towards conservation going on in the Island. The Save Our Sea Turtles (SOS) charity leads the way in conservation of Green, Hawksbill and Giant Leatherback Turtles.
Unique Experiences
We enjoyed a fun evening at the purpose-built goat race stadium at Buccoo, although the rain was pelting down for some of the time, we were under cover and it did not deter us. It was great fun to see the all preened and dressed-for-the-occasion goats all lined up for their running down the track accompanied by their owners/trainers, who run alongside them barefoot. In between goats and crab racing we loved listening to the Steelpan music emanating from carefully shaped oil barrels. Music is ever present everywhere in the Island.
Unfortunately, we were too tired to stay for Sunday School, we did see the dance hall just across the road from the goat race stadium. Nothing to do with religion Sunday School is just a big street party. Brian and I did partake back in 2015 when we visited with our friends Mark and Marion.
An evening at the Goat Races
Traditional Fishing Villages
Where pulling of the seine net is still a daily occurrence… places such as Castara, where many traditions remain. Many of the locals still earning their living from fishing, just like the previous generations have done. The sea in Castara is great for snorkelling. James and his girlfriend Robyn spotted some large and a little scary Stingrays during a snorkelling session one early morning at Castara’s big bay.
Tending the seine net at Castara
Fantastic Water Activities
With so many great beaches Tobago has no shortage of water activities, from scuba diving, kayaking, windsurfing, SUP, kitesurfing, fishing. But also some more unusual water activities such as waterfall swimming and bathing.
Argyle waterfall located on the Northeast side of the Island is Tobago’s highest, at 54 metres/175 feet. Access is via a 15 to 20 minutes trek along a clearly marked trail ( no need for a guide), there is a fee of about TT$60 at the entrance office. On the trail, you will find a variety of birds and other tropical forest creatures along with some very pretty butterflies. The cool, crisp water flows down three levels. Accesses to the upper levels is via an uphill bushy path on the right-hand side, there are ropes there to help ease the climb.
Robyn and Jamie could not resist a shower under the thunderous waterfall
Amazing Sunsets
James and Robyn enjoying a sunset at our rented villa
The weather
Perfect temperature all year round, warm without getting too hot and with low humidity during the day, the evenings are usually warmly pleasant. There are two main seasons, wet from June to December and dry from January to May. But there are lots of warm, sunny days even in the rainy season. Tobago is not in the hurricane zone, which tends to plague many parts of the Caribbean. It has a truly unique microclimate.
Our Tips For Visiting Tobago
- Hire a car – Driving in Tobago is easy, car hire and fuel inexpensive, and it’s a great way to get out and about and engage with the real island vibe. The roads can be a little narrow and winding, but there are few main roads so it is hard to get lost (but not completely impossible). Watch out for locals driving a little faster than they should and parking just anywhere including bends, main road etc. Local driving can seem a little haphazard if you have come from a country with much more traffic where everyone follows the rules, but the nice thing is that no-one seems to get stressed by it, no one is honking their horns or waving their fists however erratic the events around them… such laid-back driving, so Carribean! Also, watch out for the huge open gutters at the side of the road.
- Accommodation – No need to choose “All Inclusive”, there are so many great and very affordable places to stay on the Island. Going all inclusive will prevent you from trying all the amazing food options available.
- If staying for two weeks, you might want to share your time with booking accommodation in the South of the Island at Crown Point, Mount Irvine, Black Rock etc. and some time in the North staying at charming Castara, Charlotville etc.
- When taking money out from an ATM machine be aware of extra charges. We found an ATM next to the main supermarket at Crown Point (Westcity) which did not charge fees.
- Currency is TT Dollar, notes are colour coded according to denomination: $1 is red, $5 is green and so on.
- Shopping – For food shopping, there is more choice at Crown Point and Scarborough. For tropical beachwear and local handcrafted goods, I recommend the stalls at Store Bay and/or Pidgeon Point.
- Beware of “Tourist Prices” so ask before you buy, also at small restaurants and food stalls where there are no advertised prices.
Tobago is like an unpolished diamond, a little rough around the edges sometimes…but shining brightly nonetheless. We might well be back again for a fourth visit….
This afternoon we are flying over to South America, we will be spending few weeks in Peru. We will be meeting up with my sister Angelita and her husband Juliano. After Peru, we will be spending two weeks in Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula where we will meet up with our daughter Chloe. I suspect I will not be blogging whilst away exploring, but no doubt I will be telling you all about our exploits on my return to the UK mid-July.
What a wonderful guide and pictorial of a beautiful island. I’m going to Pin it for future reference – it’s that good! I am a water person too, and am drawn again and again to the same places. We love Bermuda, and we love Jekyll Island, both for very different reasons. It is nice to know that there are still islands in the Caribbean that have not been consumed by tourists. Happy travels.
Suzanne, Tobago does not have the glitz and glamour of some of the other more popular Caribbean Islands, but the upside is that it feels very authentic. Safe from mass tourism it is a gem of an Island. I have not been to Bermuda or Jekyll Island, but certainly would like to explore other Caribbean Islands in the future….although I suspect my heart will stay firmly in Tobago 🙂 I am enjoying your recent posts from your Europe trip 🙂
I think we all have a “favorite” destination to which we gladly return to time and time again. You must likely know where ours is! 🙂 Tobago looks incredible and there is something so mesmerizing about sitting and staring out to sea as if you can’t seem to take it all in so you have to continue to stare. We look to take very long walks along a beach, it’s one of our favorite things to do when we travel to a location that has a shoreline. Sharing it with your son and his girlfriend must have made the experience all the more special.
Patti, it is often a dilemma to go back to a destination we have been before, since we often feel there is so much to see and not enough time…but yes Tobago is a place that keeps calling us back. The sea is mesmerising, Brian in particular can sit and stare for hours out to sea, he finds it soothing and relaxing. We enjoyed many long walks by the sea in Tobago. We loved having Jamie and Robyn visiting, it was great to show them some of our favourite places on the Island 🙂
Wow! Too many typos in that comment of mine! “most” likely and “love” to take very long walks! 😉
No worries Patti, it is usually me who makes all the typos 🙂
What an enchanted description of this great island Gilda. I can feel how much you love this place and how at home you feel there. The food looks very tasty indeed. I could murder a calaloo as I write. You pack so much information in your blogs. I was glad to see they are doing their best to preserve the beauty of the island and also trying to save their sea turtles. I am here visualising this bit of paradise with great beaches, lovely people, waterfalls, fauna and flora in abundance. I am sure you will be back for more, may be Tobago is also your own little piece of paradise? Thank you for sharing, your passion for travelling shines through your writing and photos. I cannot wait for the blog on Peru – I will be there next year following your foot steps and all your valuable tips – I am also looking forward to read you take on Mexico, one of my favourite places.
Val, thank you for you lovely comment. Peru is exceeding our expectations. ..yes lots to tell you about this amazing country 🙂
What a wonderful island, especially with it not being in the hurricane zone. If I ever plan on going to the Caribbean I’ll keep Tobago in mind. Seems like my kind of place and I can understand the return visits. Sometimes it nice to know you’re going to love where you’re going and there’s no unwanted surprises when you get there. Great write up Gilda
Paula, Tobago does feel like an easy place to enjoy a bit of sunshine, delicious food, friendly people and not having to fight the crowds. No hurricanes is another huge advantage 🙂
I’ve enjoyed reading about one of your favourite islands Gilda.
I’m not one for exotic beaches (sorry!), but I think the goat races look like fun, and certainly, the traditional fishing villages would be very interesting!
p.s. Is James your son? I’ve sort of been out of the loop for the last 6 weeks, so haven’t really caught up with your travels!
Victoria, James is my son. He joined us with his girlfriend Robyn. It was a great opportunity to get to know her better since they have not been dating for long. I am currently in Peru and Wifi here is a bit sketchy so I have been out of the loop a bit also. Thanks for commenting 🙂
Gilda this is fantastic information and the next time we are thinking about a Caribbean trip I am coming back to this article. I love that I could just follow your experiences advice. So helpful.
Thanks Sue, Tobago hasn’t lost it’s true Caribbean vibe to mass tourism. It is very authentic and beautiful 🙂
This does look like a lovely spot!
It is a gem of a Caribbean Island 🙂
Your answer, “Tobago feels like an old friend” is a great explanation as to why you return, especially when you describe all the things you love about it. Doubtless, the not-being-over-run with tourists is high up your list but it all sounds like paradise to me. 🙂 We spent a couple of months nearby in Curacao a few years ago and it would have been fun to island hop around the island nations and compare them. And OMG, the birds and fish would be a huge favorite! Anita
Anita, Tobago has kept a hold on us for its aunthentic feel and peaceful beauty. But maybe we should give the other Caribbean Islands a chance also. Island hopping would be a great idea to get to know a few Islands 🙂 Lovely to have you back blogging 🙂
Wow after reading this I would definitely go there and can totally see why you would return for more. It sounds positively glorious and you did a terrific and thorough job of describing it ! Whenever we experience particularly friendly locals it is amazing how much that can contribute to a trip being successful, and good food of course! Lovely pics and love the vistas.
Peta
Thank you Peta Tobago does not have all the glitz and glamour of some of the other Caribbean Islands, but it feels very authentic. We also loved the curries …food is always a good reason to go back to a place 🙂
What a wonderful comprehensive guide Gilda! Tobago sounds a real gem – love the fact it is not populated with resorts. Can see why it draws you back – you must feel so relaxed there with the ocean, the little eateries and gorgeous weather. Hope you are enjoying your stay in Peru too! 🙂
Thank you Rosemary, after visiting Tobago three times it has became very familiar to us. It is a charming Island. Peru has been great and I will soon do some blog posts about it:)
Look forward to reading your Peruvian posts too Gilda! 🙂
It sounds like you are making the most of retirement, Gilda. It’s a long time coming, isn’t it? What a very beautiful spot you’re sharing with us. I’ve never been to the Caribbean, imagining it too expensive and maybe not our kind of place (definitely not Sandals!), but Tobago looks delightful. I can’t blame you for returning. Safe and happy travels! 🙂 🙂
Jo, retirement has been great…feel very lucky and grateful to be able to travel a bit more now. Tobago is not as expensive as some of the more glamorous Caribbean Islands. We love it because is so authentic and low key 🙂
It looks beautiful Gilda and very untouristed which is you don’t find much of in the Caribbean. I’ve always wanted to visit more of the region sometime in the future (Grenada and St. Kitts are 2 other islands that have interested me).
One of the first places I travelled independently was the Dominican Republic. Stayed 3 weeks, travelling around by bus, staying in little hotels. Met some great people. Once you get away from the mass market places (and there’s tons of those in the DR) you see a whole different way of life.
I’d totally go to Tobago.
Frank, we also need to explore some of the other Caribbean Islands. I am sure they all have a different flavour. Like you said it is all about venturing out of the bitten track to discover a more authentic vibe. We are currently in Mexico. ..It is hot, hot, hot 🙂
Simply from reading the title, I realized that Tobago must be a perfect holiday destination, Gilda. After reading your post, I am completely convinced! I am adding it to my summer bucket list. 😉
Lydia, Tobago is a little gem of a place. It does not have the glamour and glitz of some of the other Caribbean Islands, but it has bags of character. We love it 🙂 Thanks for your visit and comment.
Absolutely fantastic holiday it sounds like. I would love Tobago, and especially off-season. I don’t blame you for visiting a 3rd time. The food sounds so good, even though l didn’t see any mention of plantain, but l’m sure they must have it :-). Selfie brandishing tourists…haha! My nemesis. Almost lost a much beloved body part to one once, they never look where they’re poking. I need a Caribbean getaway… the sunsets look gorgeous too.
Kemkem, I do think you would love it there, lots of great beaches for Frederico and the food is just yummy. It is a very authentic place…not much glitz and glamour though like some other more famous Caribbean Islands, but that is precisely why we loved it 🙂
I love your bird pictures, incredible. Tobago looks lovely, I can see why you’d want to return, I’d love to go to the Caribbean.
Thank you Amy, my favourite bird is the Humming bird. But to get a good picture of it is so difficult, they never stay still for long. Tobago had some amazing wild life 🙂