Umbria: Underrated Perugia And Holy Assisi
The Italian region of Umbria is not nearly as popular as neighboring Tuscany, and yet it has some enchanting hilltop medieval towns and impressive Renaissance masterpieces, minus the crowds found in so many of the popular towns in Tuscany. We debated about adding Umbria to our two-month motorhome tour of Italy, but with hindsight we are really glad that we have crossed the border into Umbria to visit the underrated city of Perugia and the holy town of Assisi.
Umbria is situated in central Italy, the only Italian region that does not border the sea or another European country. Crossing into Umbria felt greener, more rural, and lusher than Tuscany. Often dubbed as Italy’s “green heart”, this region has a reputation for hearty food and full-bodied wine.
We left our Montepulciano Sosta inTuscany soon after breakfast and crossed the border into Umbria, skirting around Lago Trasimeno on the way to Perugia.
Perugia
Arriving in Perugia we missed the entry for our Sosta (GPS N43.09806 E12.38378) and ended up entering via the exit…Oops. The nice Italian care-taker soon got us sorted with a parking space and a ticket. The Sosta had an electric hook-up and all the facilities, including showers. It did not take us long to get sorted and head into town…another steep uphill walk taking us into the heart of Perugia’s immaculate medieval center. Perugia is a University town and a lot larger than some of the other towns we have visited during this leg of our trip, but the historic center was still very walkable, if at times quite hilly.
A great friend of mine went to University in Perugia, so I contacted her (she now lives not far from me in Dorset) for some advice. She told us her old address and we ended up even having a look at where she lived in the old city. Her apartment was very central and just a short walk from many of the main attractions. I sent her pictures of her old front door and she told me that it looked just the same as when she lived there over 30 years ago. I sensed from her messages that she missed her “dolce vita” times in Italy…and who could blame her.
Some of you might also remember hearing about Perugia, but not for the best reasons. Perugia has had its fair share of bad publicity and scandal, following the very high-profile murder case of Meredith Kercher in 2007, a British student on exchange from the University of Leeds. American, Amanda Knox, and her then-boyfriend Raffaele Sollecito also University students, became number one suspects of this awful crime. Although found guilty when first trialed and having spent almost 4 years in an Italian jail Amanda Knox was later acquitted of murder by the Italian Supreme Court and Raffaele was also acquitted. In October 2008 Rudy Guede was found guilty of the murder of Meredith.
Back to the present, and more cheerfully, we really loved Peruggia and felt that the charms and treasures of this town are underestimated. It is a historic town that has not lost its character to modernization, and there is also a great vibe with the University students making it a more lively and interesting place. The main pedestrian street is Corso Pietri Vannucci, lined with elegant buildings, cafes, bars, and independent shops.
Perugia street food.
Antica Salumeria Granieri Amato is just a little kiosk serving some delicious food.
Lunch was at a street-food institution: “Antica Salumeria Granieri Amato”, just a humble kiosk on Piazza Matteotti specializing in “porchetta” (herbed roast pork) served in a crusty bread roll – it was absolutely delicious.
After lunch, we just wandered around the town, gawping at the beautiful architecture, and we soon found the intricate Fontana Maggiore, the centerpiece of Piazza IV Novembre. Other interesting buildings such as the Gothic Palace “Palazzo dei Priori” constructed between the 13th and 14th centuries, and the Nobile Collegio del Cambio, were also found here. Piazza IV Novembre is the heartbeat of the city where most of the tourists and locals will congregate. People will often be hanging around here, taking a seat on the steps of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, basking in the sun, socializing, and sipping coffee or even some wine.
The social hub of Perugia is the “Piazza IV Novembre”.
This main Piazza is where most of the important buildings and monuments are located. Apparently, there are many summer concerts here during the Umbria Jazz Festival and other events such as the Eurochocolate Fair (Umbria is a big producer of chocolate) and also a large market exhibition called Fiera Dei Morti (fair of the dead) held in the first week of November in conjunction with the celebrations of “All Saints”.
We decided not to enter any of the Museums and Palazzi, but for anyone planning on ticking off several of these sights I would recommend the “Perugia Citta Museo Card”. We really enjoyed the vibe of the Piazza, but since there was more to explore we moved on walking downhill towards the fascinating Arco Etrusco.
It is a downhill walk to the Arco Etrusco.
Perugia is Umbria’s largest city, it is also very hilly and yet the historic center is compact and easy to explore on foot. But be prepared for some up and downhill walking, so comfortable shoes are a must. The Arco Etrusco is very impressive. Built by the Etruscans between 600 and 300 BC when they inhabited the city, nowadays it serves as a grand entrance into the city, although I don’t think we could fit our large motorhome through here. This solid stone gate is one of five that allow entry or exit into and out of Perugia’s old town.
Arco Etrusco.
We walked through the Arco Etrusco along ancient alleyways, atmospheric narrow streets, stairways leading up to mysterious buildings, and medieval churches with walls and ceilings covered in Renaissance frescoes. Little has changed here for hundreds of years and reminders of the ancient past are everywhere.
Incredibly atmospheric old streets of Perugia.
We did enter and really enjoyed visiting Rocca Paolina. I will not get into the history of it, but it is a Renaissance fortress, built by Pope Paul III, which is free to visit. It is a fascinating underworld of moody lighting, underground passageways, large chambers, tall stone walls, and strange nooks and crannies. It felt like visiting an underground city, and the scale of the place blew us away.
One of the entrances to Rocca Paolina.
Inside Rocca Paolina
The old and the modern collide in this underground Perugia with art exhibits, museums, and shops served by a labyrinth of narrow streets and a number of very modern escalators. After some happy exploring, we found our way out back into the sunshine.
We were pleasantly surprised at how much we have enjoyed this authentic and vibrant city and could have stayed longer in Perugia since it really deserved more than just one day of exploring, but with so much more to see in Italy our next destination beckoned and we left early the next morning bound for Assisi, which is just about 30 minutes down the road…or rather up the road.
Assisi
We set off towards Assisi driving on the wrong road through small towns skirting Lago Trasimeno ( there is a much larger and faster road). The usually 30 to 40 minutes drive ended up taking us a lot longer. Our arrival in town was also not without stress, since our SatNav took us along the very narrow road right through town and we ended up having to get our large motorhome through a very narrow ancient gate to get to our campsite (we later found out there was a much better way). Brian got a round of applause from some passers-by who admired his driving skills, or recklessness, or both. There was literally an inch of clearance on either side.
We had to think ourselves “slim” going through this gate with the motorhome.
The campsite ( Camping Fontemaggio GPS N43.0645 E12.6304) was very nice and friendly, although a little narrow in places, it was in a great location within easy walking distance from the town. The weather was not very good, with downpours throughout the afternoon. But between sunny spells, we did manage to explore the charming town.
Basilica di San Francesco.
The saintly town of St. Francis of Assisi has been the final destination of pilgrims keen to visit his birthplace for centuries. The main event here is of course the amazing UNESCO World Heritage-listed Basilica di San Francesco. It is free to enter, although a donation is expected. The 13th-century complex comprises two churches: the Gothic Basilica Superior (Upper Church) and then beneath is the older Basilica Inferiore (Lower Church). Visiting both sites is a must, but it is the Cripta di San Francesco ( St. Francis Tomb) that really draws the crowds, although only a few people at a time were allowed in, and again here due to the pandemic tourist numbers were a lot lower than usual.
Inside the Basilica it was very quiet and peaceful, and photography was not allowed. There were a few Franciscan Friars absorbed in their prayers. There are incredible works of art, almost every inch of the walls and ceilings are covered in frescoes by Giotto and other artists. It is just exquisite. Wearing a face mask/covering was compulsory inside and also there was a hand-sanitizer available. The story of St. Francis of Assisi is one of riches to rags, and even for non-believers/non-religious, there is no denying that he has certainly lived an extraordinary life.
Born in Assisi in late 1181 or early 1182 and died in 1226, his father was a successful silk merchant, and his mother was French. He was canonized Francis, on 16 July 1228 by Pope Gregory IX. He enjoyed a lavish lifestyle in his early life, but after spending a year as a war prisoner and a period of illness he began to re-evaluate his life. Eventually, he turned his back on the family wealth to live a simpler life, and in due course, he became the founder of the “Franciscan Order”.
He is the Patron Saint of Italy along with St. Catherine of Siena. According to the many stories that surround his life, he apparently had a great love for animals and the environment…a medieval Eco-Warrier?
We really enjoyed walking around this Ancient town exploring its many nooks and crannies. After a coffee at a town center Piazza, we walked up to the 14th century Rocca Maggiori for some great views over the town and surrounding area. Rocca Maggiore is a medieval castle-fortress built-in 1316. We did not enter the castle, but just the views from this hilltop position are reason enough to make the effort of walking up there.
Rocca Maggiori.
Views over Basilica di San Francesco from Rocca Maggiori. Fantastic 360-degree views of Perugia to the North and the surrounding valleys.
Assisi signaled the end of our one-week-long road trip exploring Tuscany and Umbria. We had a fantastic time, not only because these two regions have some of the most beautiful landscapes in Italy, but because they also have some of the most delicious food and wine. We particularly loved the wine in Montepulciano and we did stock up on a few bottles to take home with us. But our motorhome journey did not end here and we continued on, crossing into Campania next for a visit to Naples, Vesuvius, Herculano, Pompeii, and the stunningly beautiful Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri.
What wonderful surprises can be found when you dare to walk off the beaten tracks and leave the crowds behind. Umbria sounds and by the photos looks lush indeed! I bet your friend appreciated a photo of her old apartment. I remember the case of M. Kercher well but found the whole thing very complicated at the time.
Piazza IV Novembre is truly medieval, I found it stunning. I am not sure why but I really like all medieval things; towns, fashion, music.
As a child, I loved the ‘riches to rags’ story of St. Frances of Assissi. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if our current billionaires gave a little to the world? He really embraced the true spirit of Christ. I didn’t know that he died so young.
I am feeling inspired to do an Italian camino. The local produce would encourage me to walk to the next town. Yum yum…..
Val, you are absolutely right, exploring off the beaten track can be very rewarding. Umbria is not nearly as popular as Tuscany and yet it has so much to offer. Perugia is a gem of a place. I think you would love the young and vibrant vibe of this city, but also marvel at the many cultural experiences. The history of St. Francis is heart warming, I also remember loving all the stories about him when I was a child. I think an Italian Camino would be a great idea, in fact the “La Via Di Francesco” from Rome to Assisi could be a beautiful pilgrimage. Or even doing from the North from La Verna to Assisi.
Hi Gilda. You’ve now moved into an area of Italy neither of us have explored, and it looks and sounds absolutely stunning. All that natural beauty, all those gorgeous towns and cities, and then the food and wine on top. Your posts bring it all to life.
Thank you guys, Umbria is absolutely stunning, there are some real gems including Perugia and Assisi. We will definitely return to this region in the future to explore more. I am glad to have included Umbria on our travel itinerary.
It looks just beautiful. Someday Annie and I hope to visit Italy together and we’ll definitely put all your stops on our list.
Steven and Annie, Italy is an amazing country, we spent two months exploring by motorhome and only scratched the surface. I know you guys love your slow travel and I would certainly recommend at least two months to get a good feel for this country. We will definitely be back to explore more in the future.
What a great post. Adding this to our Italy list. Thanks so much! So glad to be following you!
John and Susan, people tend to overlook Umbria for the more famous Tuscany, but there are some real gems in this region. Perugia is a place I would definitely like to return in the future, since spending just one full day there was not enough. It is gorgeous!!
Perugia looks fabulous, Gilda. It just went ‘on the list’ should I ever venture to Italy again. Great photos! 🙂 🙂
Jo, Perugia is a gem of a place. Somewhere you can spend a few days and never get bored, it also has such a vibrant vibe. It definitely deserves to be on your list 🙂
wow i didnt imagine you taking the motorhome in or through these old cities with their gates! everything looks just as beautiful as any part of Italy you’ve done well! And so many arches!
Andy, driving a large motorhome around Italy is no easy thing to do and particularly when Satnav gets you going through some ancient, narrow places it can get very stressful. But we did love both Perugia and Assisi and it was worth it 🙂
I continue to enjoy traveling along with you through Italy, vicariously. Someday we’ll get there.
Patti, travelling vicariously is all we can do at the moment. I have been enjoying writing these blog posts and getting to re-live so many beautiful places. Thank you for following along 🙂
Lovely post and pictures, Gilda. I am taking notes, for hopefully my own future visit. Back in 1984, I visited Assisi on a Catholic youth group trip from my hometown of San Francisco, California. We all knew of St. Francis from his being the patron saint of our own city, and we were very impressed to see his birthplace in Italy. Although I no longer practice Catholicism, I still consider St. Francis (and St. Teresa of Avila) as my favorite saints. Even though the weather on the day of your visit to Assisi was unsettled, your photos are captivating.
Joe, I didn’t realise your home town was San Francisco, California? I have always wanted to visit Assisi, friends who had visited always raved about it. I was not disappointed and like yourself, although I am no longer a practicing Catholic there was something holy/spiritual about this town. St. Francis is my favourite, since I love his life story.
Perugia would make for a very good base for you guys to explore this region. It is beautiful, vibrant and within easy reach of many other great places to visit in this region.
Thank you for the recommendations, Gilda. We like to seek out underrated places to base our travels, and Perugia seems to be centrally located within the region, just about the right size, and beautiful and interesting in its own right. I am a third-generation San Franciscan (my mother and grandmother were also born and lived in the city). With the unpredictability of international travel this year, we are planning to spend a month this fall in San Francisco. I am really looking forward to that.
Joe, underrated places are often the best. We loved Perugia so much we even thought we could live there.
I would like to visit San Francisco in the future, so I hope you will be writing a post about your visit. How lovely that both your mother and your grandmother are from SF, I guess that it will feel like going home for you 🙂
Even though I grew up there, and it is only a four hour drive away, San Francisco is still at the top of my travel list. There are so many places I want to revisit and experience again at a slow and relaxed pace. It will feel like going home.
Umbria looks to be a wonderful region Gilda – how curious that it doesn’t attract the same crowds as Tuscany. Perugia sounds such an interesting place – I would find the history fascinating! Thanks for sharing your beautiful photos and your detailed account once again too 🙂
Rosemay, I really don’t understand why Perugia is so underrated. It is a gem of a place with many cultural sites, a vibrant town centre with lots of interesting independent shops, cafes and restaurants. Although we have only stayed one night in this city, I really think it deserves a lot longer.
Yes it is strange how some places take off and others don’t isn’t it Gilda? I prefer places like this anyway without so many tourists (well in the days we could travel that is!). Have just had a little hiatus from the blog as we had quite a few things going on but am catching up now. Just read through to the end of your Italian series now. Your photos look amazing – i want to read each post in full detail so I will work my way through them over the next day or so. It looks a wonderful trip and you were so fortunate to be able to do it 🙂
Rosemay, we did feel very grateful to have been able to travel around Italy in times of COVID. Having the motorhome really helped. Thank you so much for your comments and on going support 🙂
You’re very welcome Gilda! I must apologise for not getting back to read the rest of your Italian posts. Sadly we have been dealing with a family bereavement in the UK – my brother in law passed away last week. It was not unexpected as he had been ill but nevertheless a shock as he went downhill very rapidly. It is very hard for my husband who is having to do what he can from afar. It’s a complicated situation – his brother had special needs and his elderly mother (who is widowed) has been his primary carer since he was born. There is just no way my husband could safely travel at present even if he got permission to leave Australia. Unfortunately friends here have had to go through similar situations. We are so lucky to be living in our Western Australian bubble but travel is a long way off. I’ll catch up on your posts very soon – the photos look fantastic! 🙂
Rosemay, I have just now noticed this comment…so sorry to hear about your brother-in-law, how sad and super hard for your husband not being able to be in England at such a difficult time for the family. Things are starting to improve COVID wise here in England with the vaccination program going well, so perhaps soon you will all be able to come over. Thinking of you.
Thanks so much Gilda for your kind comments – it has been a hard time. I can’t envisage we’ll be leaving Australia anytime soon (at present our borders are closed anyway). It’s such a long way to travel too in uncertain times – thank goodness for modern means of communication such as Skype!
The richness of Perugia and Assisi – its history and the present day terrain, left me in awe of the places. The pictures transform you to the medieval ages and beautifully explains everything that the place has to offer. Looking forward to walk the path someday!
Kritika, Thank you 🙂 I am glad you have enjoyed this post. Both Perugia and Assisi are such fascinating places and definitely worth a visit. I hope you will make it there someday 🙂
Such a gorgeous destination. I’m sure everyday living here feels serene and blissful. I have always loved countryside townships and cities steeped in history. Such towns turn into fascinating storytellers.
Thank you Rohan, both Perugia and Assisi are beautiful. We really enjoyed exploring these fascinating towns. The food was also a good reason to visit. Thank you for your comment.
Enjoyed reading this post, Gilda. Such a beautiful part of Italy. It’s been more than 20 years since I last visited that region, so this was a lovely trip down memory lane. I couldn’t even remember that Arco Etrusco, but what an impressive masterpiece of architecture.
Amazing to hear St Francis was a bit of a playboy in his younger days.
Thank you Stefan, I am glad you had a trip down memory lane with this post. This region is so beautiful and often overlooked for the more glamorous Tuscany, but it certainly shouldn’t be. St. Francis had a short, but extraordinary life and one could certainly say that he was indeed a bit of a playboy in his younger years 🙂