Visiting Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius by Motorhome
Visiting the Ancient Ruins of Herculaneum and the formidable Mount Vesuvius were top of the list for our two-month motorhome tour of Italy.
We had already been traveling in Italy by motorhome for over a month when we arrived in this region. Having just left the Umbrian town of Assisi behind, we joined the toll roads towards Campania, at a cost of 24 Euros, and arrived at Agricamping Stone Vesuvius (GPS N43.0645, E14.36368) in Ercolano just 4 hours later.
It was a small campsite, but we managed to get the last motorhome space available. The owner was very friendly although he did not speak any English, but I was able to understand and speak enough Italian to get us sorted with an electricity hook-up. He even gave us a bottle of wine… not a very good wine, but still, it’s the thought that counts. If we were to visit this area again though, we would stay at a Campsite called Zeus which is right next door to Pompeii ruins and the railway station therefore location-wise it could work out better.
Our plan was to stay a few days here to explore Naples, Vesuvius, Herculaneum, and Pompeii. We felt that this campsite would be ideal since it was not too far from a train station (Ercolano Scavi) and also very near the Herculaneum ruins. The friendly campsite owner gave us lots of information, leaflets, and maps for the local area. In this post, I will be describing how we managed to see both Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius on the same day. I will be writing a separate post for Pompeii and Naples.
Visiting The Ruins of Herculaneum
We woke up to a beautiful sunny day on our first full day in this area and soon after breakfast we walked downhill towards the Herculaneum Ruins. In our excitement, we forgot to check what time the site opened and we ended up having to wait for over an hour before being allowed in. Whilst waiting we walked the short distance over to the “Vesuvius Express” office (next door to the Circumvesuviana Ercolano Scavi train station) which operates a shuttle service up the Mount Vesuvius and so we booked our tickets to visit the volcano at 3 pm in the afternoon (costing us 20 Euro pp for the transport and entrance fee to the National Park).
Soon after, we returned to the Herculaneum ruins for our exploring and soon realised there was hardly anyone visiting (I guess due to the coronavirus pandemic). There was only a small queue of people to buy the tickets, so we joined the queue, bought our ticket and donning our face-masks we entered the site. I have visited it a few years ago with my sisters and our friend Sinara, on a day trip from Rome, read about it here but I felt just as impressed now as I did then.
Ancient Herculaneum lies about 50 feet below the level of modern Ercolano, buried in volcanic debris from eruptions. It has been well preserved, with much of this ancient Roman town still hidden beneath the more modern Ercolano. Excavation and preservation projects are ongoing with less than a quarter already uncovered.
Most of the Ancient Herculaneum is still buried under the modern city of Ercolano. Here you can see the two layers with the volcano looming in the distance. Directly below me, one can see the sea-front houses and then the boathouses at the lowest level.
As you enter the site you can see the two layers of old and modern with Vesuvius looming in the distance. Herculaneum is a lot smaller and has been preserved in a very different way from Pompeii and in fact, it is a lot better preserved. The tragic eruption of Mount Vesuvius happened in 79 AD, affecting both Herculaneum and nearby Pompeii.
According to archeological studies, the eruption of Mount Vesuvius happened in mid-October 79AD when the volcano started spewing volcanic material thousands of meters into the sky. The ash and volcanic rock fell primarily into Pompeii, where the weight of the volcanic material caused the roofs of houses to collapse and the falling debris soon engulfed the whole city.
Herculaneum was a small walled town located a short distance from the sea and West of Mount Vesuvius and just 17 km (10 miles) to the North of Pompeii. The town was only mildly affected by this first phase of the eruption. The wind on this fatal day was blowing in the direction of Pompeii, carrying the ash cloud away from Herculaneum which received only a light dusting of volcanic ash.
This mild effect did cause some of the town inhabitants to flee, but unfortunately, they returned home thinking it was safe to come back. Tragically in the early hours the next day, all that eruptive material that was being held on the earth’s stratosphere collapsed back down in a huge pyroclastic surge of ash and hot gases, wiping out the inhabitants.
The entire city was buried under 16 meters of volcanic ash and rock that soon solidified, sealing and preserving it more or less intact. Fast forward many hundreds of years and the city was rediscovered by chance in 1709, during the digging of a well. Regular excavations began in 1738, and have continued ever since, albeit intermittently. Currently, excavations have been temporarily discontinued, in order to direct all funding into preserving the ruins already exposed.
The well-preserved houses and buildings showcase the wealth of this town, with mythically themed wall mosaics, beautiful frescoes, and black and white floor tiled rooms. Some of the villas were constructed around elegant central courtyards with fountains and marble statues. It was fascinating wandering around this site imagining the lives of people who lived and thrived here almost two thousand years ago.
Map of the town.
One of Herculaneum’s main streets.
A Thermopolium, selling hot food.
Public Fountains distributed the water throughout the town with lead pipes carrying it to the richest houses.
In this bakery 25, round bronze baking pans were found. Many houses were equipped with manual millstones, so families could make bread at home.
The Casa dei Cervi, for example, is a great example of a wealthy Roman family home that would have been a two-store villa, lavishly decorated with interesting paintings and artwork – such as the entertaining statue of a drunken, peeing, Hercules. Clearly, this town had a rich and flamboyant artistic life.
Casa dei Cervi.
A drunken, peeing Hercules.
Also impressive is “Terme Centrali” Central Baths, one of the best-preserved Roman bath complexes in the world. Featuring a spacious apodyterium (changing/undressing room) where they would have stored their belongings whilst bathing. The Central Bath facilities were divided into a smaller area for the women and another larger for the men. We were very lucky to visit it since this building is rarely accessible to visitors.
Apodyterium (undressing room).
There were three bathing areas: the frigidarium (cold room), the caldarium (hot room), and the tepidarium (warm room), with its beautiful black and white mosaic depicting Triton surrounded by dolphins, an octopus, and other sea creatures.
Tepidarium.
It was an easy-to-navigate town with many of the houses open for a visit, some can sometimes be shut for restoration work. We loved the “House of Neptune and Amphitrite”, house number 22 which is thought to have been an aristocratic house, featuring a mosaic encrusted fountain and bath as a shrine to the sea god Neptune and his sea- nymph wife Amphitrite.
House of Neptune and Amphitrite
Herculaneum had about 4000 inhabitants and many tried to escape the volcano’s eruption by boat, but tragically they were suffocated by the poisonous gas.
These vaulted boathouses would have once-upon-a-time open directly onto the harbour.
The port warehouses were the most striking and sad places we visited.
One of the most poignant sites was the port warehouses/boat sheds, where in the early eighties human skeletons were unearthed. Archeological studies revealed that these are the remains of fleeing Herculaneum residents who attempted to hide here, waiting to be rescued by boat, when the scorching ash and toxic gases created by the volcano eruption overwhelmed and killed them all in an instant. Exposed to unbelievable temperatures, their bodies were instantly vaporized, leaving their skeletons where they fell. It was shocking to gaze on the remains of these poor people, who only hours before the eruption had thought that their lives extended out far into the future. They had dreams, loves, worries, fears, enemies, friendships, vices and virtues, and everything we all have ourselves today. But in the space of such a short time, they were forced to flee their homes and businesses, to huddle in terror, and turned to dust. There aren’t many places you can visit with such a visceral impact., that leave such powerful memories.
Along with the skeletons, there were also jewelry, coins, and other personal belongings. We spent about 2 hours walking around the site which is quite compact and easy to explore. Once we had seen enough we made our way back home (uphill this time) for lunch and a rest, returning to catch our shuttle-bus up Mount Vesuvius later on in the afternoon.
Mount Vesuvius
Our shuttle bus was already waiting for us when we arrived, it was parked just next to the “Vesuvius Express” tour company and right next door to the Ercolano Scavi train station, so for anyone arriving by the Circumvesuviana from Naples, it is very easy to find.
The bus takes everyone up most of the way to a large parking area not far from the crater of the volcano, from where there is a short but steep hike of about 20 minutes to get to the crater. The moderate hike is via a dusty, sandy/volcanic path making it a little harder at times on the legs, but certainly very doable. I suggest for anyone attempting to walk up the Vesuvius that wearing comfortable walking shoes (not sandals or flip-flops) is a must.
The hike up to the crater is steep, but only about 20 minutes.
We lucked out with a warm, sunny day and clear views of the stunning Bay of Naples. Usually, it can be a lot fresher and even cold at the top, but we felt fine with just a t-shirt. On several of the days we were in this area the top was lost in cloud all day, so timing is everything to get the amazing views.
These views are worth the effort.
Can you see some smoke coming off the crater?
Not a bad place for a glass of wine.
The views are spectacular, it is possible to see the Island of Capri, and in the distance the Amalfi Coast. Since the tragic eruption of AD 79, Vesuvius has blown its top more than 30 times, with the most devastating eruptions in 1631 and then again in 1944. Another eruption could happen at any time, but the volcano is constantly monitored for any signs of activity.
Once we finished exploring the volcano we returned back down to where the shuttle bus was parked and back to the town of Ercolano. We then walked, uphill again, back to our home-on-wheels. Needless to say it was quite a tiring day, with lots of walking, but after a good night’s sleep we were ready for exploring Pompeii the next day.
Tips for visting Herculaneum
- The ruins of Herculaneum are situated in the modern town of Ercolano, in Southern Italy between the cities of Naples and Sorrento.
- Herculaneum is a lot smaller than Pompeii and a visit will take about 2 hours. The ruins receive about 300 thousand visitors per year, compared to Pompeii 3.5 million (although both sites were very quiet when we visited in October 2020, due to the coronavirus pandemic). A visit to Pompeii will take at least 4 hours.
- It is possible to visit both Herculaneum and Pompeii on the same day, particularly if staying at nearby Naples or Sorrento, but it will be quite a tiring and long day. My suggestion is to visit Herculaneum and Mt. Vesuvius in one day and visit Pompeii the following day.
- Visting Herculaneum and Pompeii on a one-day trip from Rome might be doable, but it will be exhausting. There are bus tours available or it can be done under your own steam using the train services. I did it independently, using the great train services, with my sisters a few years ago.
- To visit Herculaneum from Rome take the National “ItaliaRail” train from Rome Termini (the main train station in Rome) to Napoli Centrale (Naples) and then change trains to the Circumvesuviana to Ercolano Scavi train station. The ruins are located about 500 meters downhill from the train station, follow the signs for the ” Scavi” down the main street, Via IV Novembre.
- To visit Herculaneum from Naples, take the Circumvesuviana train from Napoli Centrale (Piazza Garibaldi) to Ercolano Scavi train station. The trains are regular and will take about 25 minutes.
- To visit Herculaneum from Sorrento, take the Circumvesuviana train from the center of Sorrento to the Ercolano Scavi train station. It takes about 40 minutes.
- If you’re driving to Herculaneum there’s no official parking for the site but there are public car parks nearby.
- Visit the Herculaneum official website for opening hours and prices. It is possible to do a guided tour of the ruins, but we did not find that necessary. A site map and audio guides are also available.
What a fascinating post. Very enjoyable!
John and Susan, Herculaneum is fascinating, humbling, haunting. It stirred up all sorts of emotions during our visit. I am glad you have enjoyed this post.
Excavation is much further on than when we visited Ercolano 20+ years ago, Gilda, and it’s certainly well worth a visit. We didn’t climb to the rim of the volcano (I don’t think shuttle bus was an option and small person was tired) and that’s a lasting regret. You had a wonderfully clear day and it looks fabulous. 🙂 🙂
Jo, I think they have progressed a lot with the excavations from when you visited back 20 years ago. I visited with my sisters and our friend Sinara in 2013 and even since then I noticed a difference. But recently they have been concentrating more on the preservation of what has already been uncovered. We lucked out with the weather hiking up Vesuvius, we stayed in the area for about 2 weeks and often the volcano was covered by cloud.
Lucky you to be out and about.
Peggy, we had planed to do this trip in the Spring last year, but unfortunately the lockdown in England and the rest of Europe put an end to our plan. During the summer 2020 many countries in Europe were welcoming the tourists back, including Italy. So we jumped at the chance of doing our trip. Rate of infection was lower in Italy than many other European countries and travelling by motorhome made us feel very safe. It turned out well for us and we felt very grateful to have had the opportunity.
Great post, Gilda, on your visits to both Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius – it just made me want to hop on over there right now and explore the areas, Your tips are a godsend to future travelers wanting to follow in your footsteps – thank you for providing several options. So sad that Italy has closed down again after experiencing its third wave of the virus. I hope you both get out on the road again and tantalize us with more places to go!
Steven and Annie, it is very sad that Italy is experiencing a third wave of coronavirus and another lockdown. Here in the UK things experienced a really bad second wave and we are currently on our third lockdown…fingers crossed it will be the last. The vaccination program is going well and both myself and my husband have now been vaccinated. So fingers crossed we will be on the road again very soon. I hope the above tips will be useful for when you visit this region.
We recently saw a TV programme about Ercolano, both that and your post has made us want to visit. I’ve been to Naples, Capri and Vesuvio and really want to revisit the whole area.
Herculaneum has really impressed us, I had visited it before with my sisters, but was really glad to visit it again with my husband. It is a lot smaller and easier to explore than Pompeii, but if you return to this region I would recommend a visit to both sites, since they are quite different.
Lovely post Gilda. Very detailed and full of history. Amazing how much better preserved the Herculaneum ruins are compared to Pompei. You are getting all of us craving a bit of Italian magic. I enjoyed the photos. You always look so happy in your travels.
Val, thank you so much. Herculaneum has been preserved in a very different way from Pompeii and it is like a time capsule, a fossilised city. We were particularly moved by the findings at the boathouses…the terrorized skeletons of Herculaneum’s residents all huddled together awaiting for the rescue that never came…a haunting reminder of how life is so fragile.
Awesome post. How wonderful to have had these places practically to yourselves. I can’t wait to visit based on your descriptions. Hopefully soon. I would be a bit shaken up at seeing the skeletons l think since l am such a chicken. I remember running away when we visited some site in Malta :-). Beautiful Italy is, and now not being able to visit makes me more keen. His mom is retired now, so hopefully as soon as we can, we will take her along for part of the trip. She is just about sick of Rome now :-). Thanks for taking me on your journey.
Thank you Kemkem, visiting both Herculaneum and Pompeii without the usual crowds was great, although sad that so many people have not been able to travel and the tourism industry has suffered so much…like in so many other places tourist numbers were less than half of what would have been if not for the coronavirus pandemic. Italy is indeed beautiful, this region of Campania has stolen our hearts. Being so close to Rome it will be very easy for you guys to travel here with your MIL, how lovely that she is now retired. I think Sorrento would make a good base from where to explore this region.
Fascinating! We need to see/experience this. I’ve often thought being an archaeologist would be an interesting career, except for the whole digging in the dirt under the blazing hot sun and all the creepy crawlies part of the job. Ha! Ha! The skeleton remains reminds me of the Bone Church in Kutna Hora outside of Prague.
Patti, being a history teacher I think this area will appeal a lot to you. I would not be a good archaeologist, since I am a bit too impatient for all the slow uncovering of artefacts process 🙂 I remember your post on the Bone Church, it was very interesting and a place I would love to visit. Have you been to Evora in Portugal? Again a similar idea.
Although here the human skeletons look terrified as they all huddled together awaiting for the rescue that never happened. It is a fascinating place, but also emotionally draining.
A great report. I have been to Pompeii and loved it but not to Herculaneum.
Thank you Darlene, Pompeii is a lot larger than Herculaneum and just as fascinating. Having visited both, if I could only visit one of them, it would have to be Pompeii. But ideally I would recommend both, since they have been preserved differently. I hope you are keeping well Darlene and enjoying the Spanish Spring 🙂
I didn’t know much about Herculaneum before reading your post Gilda – what an amazing day you had exploring! It would have been an emotional visit too – seeing how those poor people tried to escape after believing they were safe from the volcano must have been very moving. The insight into their lives so long ago is fascinating. It looks like you had a wonderful weather too for your trip up Mount Vesuvius and captured some great photos of the views 🙂
Rosemay, we really lucked out with the weather for our visit to both Herculaneum and going up Vesuvius. We spent about two weeks in this region and there were so many days with poor visibility from Mt. Vesuvius, it would have been such a shame if the weather had been bad. Herculaneum is a kind of place that leaves you speechless and very emotional. Seeing the skeletons huddled in terror is not something that one could soon forget.
I love how you include the tips at the bottom of your posts Gilda. It’s one thing to say and show how fascinating a place is and another to know how to access it. You do both so well.
As I wrote on Facebook we only had time to go to Pompeii. It was pre-retirement travel. Hopefully we can get back one day and utilize your excellent post.
Sue, thank you so much. Totally agree that it can be so useful to learn how to best access a place. I hope the tips will be useful for people planning to do a similar trip. Your cycling trip in this region must have been fabulous 🙂
Gilda, Thank you for another practical and inspiring post. Your photos of the degree of preservation and amount of detail at Herculaneum are impressive. The descriptions of your emotions at seeing the remains of the villagers trapped in the boat houses were also quite moving. I am surprised by how accessible the crater of Vesuvius is. Combining Herculaneum and Vesuvius sounds like an exhausting but very rewarding day.
Joe, Herculaneum is so well preserved…it is fascinating to walk the streets, enter the houses and shops and feel transported back to AD 79. Seeing the skeletons and learning about their tragic fate was heartbreaking and very emotional. Going up Mt. Vesuvius after visiting Herculaneum felt strangely exciting…considering that it is an active volcano. The logistics of visiting both Herculaneum and Mt. Vesuvius on the same day made a lot of sense to us since the shuttle-bus company “Vesuvius Express” is just next door to the train station of Ercolano Scavi and super convenient. The views over the Bay of Naples made the effort to get up there very worthwhile 🙂
Interesting read, Gilda. Ellie & I have only done Pompeii properly, not Herculaneum.
Thank you Stefan 🙂 Pompeii receives a lot more visitors than Herculaneum. They are quite different in the way that they have been preserved. I would recommend both sites, but if I could only visit one it would have to be Pompeii.