Why we are Loving Summer in the Norwegian Arctic
The Norwegian Arctic conjures up images of a cold, far-away land inhabited by Eskimos and Polar Bears. You would not be totally wrong to be thinking that, but although we are well North of the Arctic Circle, polar bear sightings, sadly will not be in our road trip itinerary. Summer in this region has been surprisingly mild, sunny and with some very pleasant daily temperatures. Particularly since leaving Nordkapp we have really lucked out with the weather.
With a heatwave hitting most of Europe, including our home country of England, there has never been a better time to visit the Far North of Norway. Although cooler summer temperatures are not the only reason why we are loving this motorhome road trip above the Arctic Circle. We have been here in Norway for most of the 40 days since leaving home at the end of June/19 and we still have only seen about just one quarter of this long, skinny country.
Norway is motorhome heaven, particularly since their “freedom to roam” laws are making it very easy for us to find places to overnight for free. Our overnight spots have often been surrounded by beautiful countryside, along a magnificent fjord or a lake or high on a mountain top.
People are allowed to camp at least 150 meters away from the nearest inhabited house or cottage. This law gives the right to everyone in Norway to enjoy the right of access to, and passage through, uncultivated land in the countryside.
We stayed a few nights here for free.
I must point out that Norway is not the only country in Europe to have such laws though, there are other Nordic countries such as Sweden, Finland and even Scotland that have similar laws.
There has been many memorable moments on this motorhome road trip so far, here are some of the highlights of the Far North of Norway:
Twenty Four Hours of Day Light
Days are long in the Arctic summer, in fact they last from mid- May to late-July here in the Far North of Norway, when the sun does not set below the horizon. We found this phenomenon very strange at first and our bed time routines have completely changed.
Midnight sun on a mountain top, exactly twelve o’clock
Our usual bed time became later and later…with the sun still high in the sky going to bed just would not feel right. We were grateful for the blackout blinds in our motorhome, which allowed us to eventually get some sleep.
A golden, soft light that lasts for hours. Our overnight spot by the Lyngenfjord with the Lyngen Alps in the far distance.
The longer periods of “golden hour” combined with stunning landscapes have also meant that this country is a photographer’s dream. I did often wish that my photography skills would have been better, so I could have made the most of this “golden” opportunity.
The Incredible Norwegian Arctic Archipelago
Rugged and remote Islands that are so sparsely populated, its main inhabitants are the wildlife, spellbinding fjords, charming little fishing villages and soaring mountain peaks.
Ferry rides between the Islands are all part of the road trip experience.
The Islands are often connected by bridges and tunnels strung along like a beaded necklace. Often a ferry ride will be necessary, taking you on a journey of pure bliss navigating through the cold, glacial waters of a fjord in order to move between islands. Each Island has its own character and attractions, but mostly a visit to these islands is all about the natural environment, filling your lungs with fresh air and your eyes and hearts with the wilderness of your surroundings.
Sparsely Populated
Particularly the large, far north county of Finmmark, we have found it to be incredibly empty of people and cars… often driving for many miles without meeting another car on the road. Regularly the other vehicle would also be a motorhome, mostly Norwegian. They love their motorhomes here and it is no surprise as to why, with good and empty roads, beautiful scenery and plentiful free overnight places to find peace and solitude, it is a no brainer.
We were surprised to see quite a few cyclists doing these routes, carrying a tent and again overnighting in some really amazing locations. I guess they are taking a bit of a gamble with the weather this far North, but if it pays off, there is no better place to be.
Norwegian Scenic Routes
There are eighteen selected scenic routes in Norway. We have already done 5 which are above the Arctic Circle. In total they cover 2, 136 km of Western, Central and Northern Norway, a project that has taken about 20 years to complete. Several renowned architects and designers have contributed to the project.
The scenic routes combine great viewing points and resting areas with excellent facilities plus works of art and architecture that aim to enhance and enable a greater road trip experience.
Although in our experience so far, even the roads that are not part of the project have been exceedingly beautiful and memorable.
Fishing in the Arctic
Brian longed to fish in Norway and he has not been disappointed. He has managed to enjoy fishing from some incredible locations and catch our dinner most days.
Can’t go wrong with a fishing view like this one.
Some of his favourite all time fishing moments have been enjoyed here in Norway.
Serendipity at Saltnes
We followed a road sign for Saltnes and ended up having a serendipity moment when we discovered an off grid parking spot with a great hike to a nearby Glacier.
Our off grid overnight stop by Jøkelfjord was great. There is a hike to the Glacier tongue from here.
The Øksfjordjøkelen is known as the only Glacier on mainland Europe that calves into the sea. At the innermost part of the Jøkelfjord lies the arm of the 44 square km Øksfjord Glacier (Øksfjordjøkelen).
It was an easy hike from our motorhome overnight spot, although we did not go all the way to the Glacier tongue.
At the innermost part of the Jøkelfjord lies the arm of the 44 square km Øksfjord Glacier. We spotted Dolphins from here.
When chunks of ice fall into the Jøkelfjord it can potentially cause a small- tsunami like wave that can ripple through the valley. Fortunately, no tsunamis while we were there. Just pure bliss!
We only hiked part of the way, since going all the way to the foot of the Glacier tongue was going to take at least 4 hours there and back. We had planed a different hike for the following day (to the Blue Lake) and decided to keep to a shorter hike on this day. We thoroughly enjoyed the hike, particularly because we spotted lots of Dolphin frolicking in the water.
A great way to visit the arm of the Glacier is by boat from a nearby pontoon, something that we did consider doing, but ended up changing our minds. Looking back now, I wish we had done it.
The Lyngen Alps
The Lyngen Peninsula has some impressive glaciers and alpine peaks, rising up from the shores of the Lyngenfjord.
There are many hiking trails that can be done on either sides of the Lyngenfjord and stretch deep into the valleys. This area was strategically important during World War II and some of the trails are based around this history.
We did a hike to Lake Blåvannet, also known as the Blue Lake, which was a big highlight of this area for us. The beautiful blue colour of the water is due to silt particles in the meltwater from the Lenangsbreen glacier.
The well marked trail is about a 8.8km round trip. Just follow the stones marked in red. It is of medium difficulty, with an elevation gain of 210 meters. We did see families with young children doing the trail although I would personally not recommend it for young children, since there are some huge boulders and scree near the lake that will be hard for kids to climb over.
It took us about 2 hours to complete the hike.
This part of the hike with big boulders and scree was the hardest.
The blue lake was mesmerizing
The Glacier, behind us is fast receding, like many others around our planet.
The Blue Lake is located on the western side of the Lyngen Alps.
Parking is available at Sørlenangsbotn, a 15 km drive north from the Svensby ferry terminal.
We stayed off grid on the shores of the Lyngenfjord, from where we spotted whales, dolphins and porpoises in its deep, cold waters. The wild life was another big highlight of our stay here.
Interesting Far North Towns
There are no large cities in the far North of Norway. Mostly there are small fishing towns and coastal settlements that look out onto majestic fjords. A small cluster of colourful wooden houses, perhaps a small church and a shop. Two of the towns we visited in this area that have few cultural sites to offer are Alta and Tromso.
Alta
The great fishing found here in Alta is what has caught Brian’s attention, but for me I really enjoyed the UNESCO listed Alta Museum with its ancient petroglyphs.
Alta Museum – Inside, the museum features displays on Sami Culture among other exhibits. The open air part of the museum was the most fascinating though showcasing “World Heritage Rock Art” with stone age carvings dating from 6,000 to 2,000 years ago.
The carvings and drawings have been highlighted in red making it easy to see. Although this technique is no longer used as it corrupts the original art.
There is a well marked path, with parts of it covered by a wooden walkway and great views of the fjord and surrounding mountains.
Northern Lights Cathedral – This Cathedral certainly stands out against the landscape with its gleaming titanium cladding and swirling pyramid shape.
Northern Lights Cathedral
Opened in 2013, the interior is super modern with a 4.3m high bronze statue of Christ, by Danish artist Peter Brandes.
Tromso
Tromso, takes the limelight this far North, located 400km above the Arctic Circle at 69 degrees North it is the gateway to all things Arctic. It is beautifully set nestled between snow capped peaks and the glacial waters of the fjords. It sits on the Eastern side of the Island of Tromsoya and it is linked to the mainland by a long arched bridge.
Fjellheisen – We enjoyed a cable car ride to the top of Mt. Storsteinem (421m) for a great view over the city. Many people like to hike up via some hiking routes that can be found here, but we decided that the cable car would be best for us.
Views of Tromso from Mt. Storsteinem
There is a hiking trail down from here, but we took the cable car instead.
It is a very steep hike and not one we fancied doing. After riding the cable car back down we walked towards the Arctic Cathedral and over the bridge into the town centre for lunch.
We found a really funky burger bar (called Burgr) in the town centre and ate the best burger we have had for a long time. I totally recommend this place, they do veggie burgers here also.
Burgr – a super cute and delicious burger bar in Tromso
The main shopping street is pedestrianized. It is worth having a stroll through and check out the street market, shops and some of the churches.
Perspektivet Museum – is a free photography museum, housed in a neoclassical style house, there were some interesting exhibitions on Religiosity and a superb exhibition of photos by local photographer Knut Stokmo.
Perspektivet Museum is a free photography museum in Tromso.
Also the “Red Utopia” exhibition about life under Communist regimes. We really enjoyed spending over an hour here.
Polar Museum– We thoroughly enjoyed the Polar Museum depicting life in the Arctic including the incredible expeditions of Nansen and Amundsen to the South Pole. I found particularly fascinating to hear about Wanny Woldstad, the first woman to go Seal hunting in the Arctic Ocean and spend some hash winters there.
Polar Museum in Tromso
There was lots more to do in Tromso, but the main reason we were here was to wait for a very special arrival. Our son Jamie was flying from London via Oslo into Tromso Airport. Coming to visit us for a one week holiday. Together we explored the fabulous Senja and Lofoten Islands. But I will be telling you all about that in my next blog post.
Wow!! What a great trip. Love your pictures.
Darlene, thank you. Norway is a photographers paradise, in many ways I don’t feel up to really do it justice with my poor photography skills. But surely trying my best, so I will take your compliment with much gratitude.
Thank you for this amazing guide to northern Norway. Now we just need to get there.
Peggy, you are very welcome, I hope this little guide can be helpful. If you love nature and a place where mass tourism has not yet arrived, then Norway is definitely for you. It is a great country for a road trip 🙂
Sounds like the perfect destination to get away from crowded – overcrowded – tourist magnets. Must keep it in mind for another day and another venture. Great photographs.
Lieve
The far North of Norway is very much off the beaten track. There aren’t many cultural sites here, but for nature’s lovers it is paradise. An amazing country for a road trip. I am glad you have enjoyed the photos, I am trying to improve on my photography skills 🙂
Gilda, everything about this post feels serene and peaceful. Lonely Planet comes to mind when I look at your photographs. I see you found the midnight sun after all!
Suzanne, thank you so much for the compliment on my photographs, I really appreciate that. I finally spotted that elusive midnight sun. It is such an incredible phenomenon, seeing it still there, shinning so bright well after midnight and never setting at all…it was very bizarre. Thank you for your lovely comment.
Gilda wishing I might wave a magic wand and drop in to join you at so many of these locations. It sounds truly like an RV dream trip. If one were doing it by car would there be accommodations to access? Or would one need to rent or buy a motor home of some sort?
Sue, we would love to have you dropping by 🙂 I can see you and Dave doing a cycling trip here. We met many cyclists doing these routes, they are not as steep as the Picos de Europa, so it would be a “piece of cake” for you guys. There are some great cabin type lodgings at all the campsites we have used, so one could certainly do a road trip staying overnight on those. I will do a blog post in the future with some sample itineraries and will include accommodation. I am also planning to do a costs post, since we are keeping tabs of all our spending.
Gilda, You and Brian are living the motorhome dream. I am amazed by the stunning scenery your photos portray. With their civilized RV laws, lack of crowds, and incredible hikes, museums, and never-ending days, I can see why the Norwegian Arctic is a slow travelers paradise. Continued safe and happy travels!
Joe, thank you and yes we do feel that it has been a dream come true. Norway so far has been amazing, the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful. We have found so many great places to overnight off grid and have the best views for free. It is motorhome paradise here. I am curious to know where you and Esther are heading to next? But don’t want to spoil the surprise, so I will keep an eye out for when you announce it 🙂
Sneak peak: We are heading to the Netherlands for two months this fall. Can’t wait!
Joe, great choice. Esther’s home country will be looking very pretty with the Autumn colours. I will be looking forward to your blog posts.
What a lovely post! The beautiful pictures highlighted by your delightfull storytelling made me want more. Can’t wait to read the next chapter. Keep posting😘😍
Sister, thank you so much for your support and encouragement. Norway has been a great place to explore by motorhome. It is all about nature here with so many unique overnight stops, totally free and with incredible views. I am glad you are enjoying the blog and travelling along with us 🙂
Wow..these places look great, so peaceful. You guys being hikers must have just loved it. Peaceful surroundings for sure, and l cracked up at the disruption of sleep thanks to the never-ending days. I remember when we visited Copenhagen and Stockholm , it was just for a week, but it was hard to sleep wit all the sunlight. Plays with your mind. You guys are really enjoying the RV life and that is just awesome . Hope the weather keeps up for you. We are melting in Valencia.
Kemkem, thank you. We certainly are enjoying RV life, it does suit us very well indeed and it is getting quite addictive. Norway has been very much about the outdoors with some amazing hikes, but we have not done as many as we would have liked, since often we are feeling a little bit lazy. We are now further South and experiencing darker nights again, we can finally sleep a bit better hahaha. Having the sun shinning 24/7 can certainly play with your mind a little bit…a case of having too much of a good thing. I can imagine it is hot, hot ,hot in Valencia…I hope you have a good AC? I bet you are loving your new apartment, it looks gorgeous 🙂
We saw tidal glaciers that break off into the sea in Alaska last year and it was the most amazing sight! For some reason I was surprised for the most part how green Alaska was – I guess I was expecting snow all year round or something like that! I still have quite a few posts to write up on Alaska, which I’ll get round to once I’ve finished writing up my latest trip to UK and Germany. I can well understand how people living in these northern climes want to get out and explore as much as they can in summer as the winters must seem so dark and endless.Hope you’ve had a lovely time with your son! 🙂
Rosemary, Alaska is high up on my wish list, so I will be looking out for more blog posts on your trip there. How fabulous to see the tidal glaciers breaking off into the sea…I would love to see that. These natural phenomenon don’t always happen when you are there watching and hoping for it to happen. We had a great time with Jamie, I will publish the post soon 🙂
Gilda, I am spellbound by Norway. Breathtakingly beautiful. You must feel completed connected to Mother Nature in the wilderness of this region; the hiking looked hard but rewarding. Keep on going, traveller interrupted! 🙂
Val, “Mother Nature” has been generous here. I definitely feel very connected with the natural environment in some of these wild and unspoiled regions, particularly in the Far North. Some of the areas we have visited felt like the end of the world…no one there, just us.
Frank, you are so funny…I nearly choked on my cup of tea hahaha.
Gilda, this looks like a fabulous trip. As campers, we often go north in summer, but above the arctic circle is a bit beyond our reach: lucky you. I’ve never heard of “Freedom to Roam,” but what a wonderful idea for campers. Some of the photos of your campsites look like a marketing ad for a camper company. They always show these scenic, idyllic campsites, and usually the reality is far different, but not in your case. And BTW, one of the things we enjoyed when living in London were rambles along the “rights of way” there. Unfortunately, we have nothing like this in the US. Nice post. ~James
James, thank you. Norway’s laws on the “Freedom to Roam” make this country perfect for campers. It is incredible to think of the places that you can stay overnight for free. There were times when we felt “this view just can’t be true”…we had to pinch ourselves. We have been lucky to get great weather above the Arctic Circle, sunny and perfect temperatures. The Gulf Stream in the Far North of Norway keep the temperatures quite mild. The ramblers “rights of way” in the UK are another fantastic idea…giving access to everyone to enjoy the great outdoors and country scenery. In the US you do have some amazing National Parks…I hope to visit some of them one day 🙂
It is a spectacular looking country, Gilda, and your photos are pretty fabulous. 🙂 🙂 I love the Midnight Sun shots.
Jo, thank you. I have been practicing my photography skills and trying to improve. Isn’t that midnight sun just amazing? I was mesmerized by it 🙂
Of course, winter is a different story, takes a little more to love. But summer, yes, summers are beautiful up here. Long days and bright nights. and so much energy. I enjoy follow you trip – and the gorgeous photos.
Otto, your comment on my photos have made my day…I will be smiling all day long now, although deep down I know you are being more than generous with your comment. I am a great fan of your photos Otto. The long summer nights are so perfect for photography, getting more hours of the “golden hour”. I often felt ill equipped and photography knowledge poor to take full advantage of such stunning landscapes.
Wow Gilda…not sure what you mean. Your photo skills are on point! I hate those over processed photos with colors not found in nature. They are stunning! I love the fact your shots are not overwhelmed by other tourists. It must have been great to have some of these places to yourself. Now for an insomniac like me,24 Hours of Day Light sounds like my personal nightmare.
Lissette, you are very kind. I did a short photography course 2 years ago and it did help me a bit, but I will never be an accomplished photographer. But you are right that over processed photos can look a bit fake, like you I do prefer the more natural look. I nearly turned into an insomniac with the 24 hours of day light…I had to work harder at having bed time routines and get Brian to sing me a lullaby hahaha.