Château de Chenonceau – An Intriguing Royal Love Triangle
Like so many other fascinating historic places, they often hide a dark past of political mishaps, rivalry, jealousy, revenge and great love affairs. As we explored the stunning Château de Chenonceau the plot of an intriguing Royal love triangle started to unfold.
Henry II married Catherine de Medici, who was a member of the powerful ruling family of Florence, they were both fourteen years old when they got married.
The following year, he became romantically involved with the thirty-five-year-old widow, Diane de Poitier, who was beautiful, well educated and politically astute. She influenced many of the decisions made by the King who was madly in love with her. Her powers of persuasion did not take long to convince the King to gift her the charming Château de Chenonceau.
His wife Catherine was not impressed with Henry’s generosity, she wanted the Château for herself.
Diane moved into the Château de Chenonceau and did not lose any time or spared any expenses on renovation work, during her time living at the Chateau she commissioned the famous bridge over the river Cher, so she could go hunting on the other side of the river.
Château de Chenonceau. and the unique bridge that straddles the Cher River
When Henry died following a jousting accident, Catherine forced Diane to exchange Chenonceau for the less glamorous and smaller Château Chaumont-sur-Loire.
Soon after taking possession of Chenonceau Catherine de Medici embarked on a campaign of renovation and removing many of Diane’s ideas. Catherine wanted the mistress out of her life once and for all. Who would blame her for finally being able to put her own mark on Château de Chenonceau. . She made it into her favourite Royal residence, she hosted many lavish Royal parties at the Château.
Catherine completed the construction of the arched bridge that straddles the Cher River which was started by Diane, giving its unique look that continuous to be enjoyed by so many visitors to the Chateau today.
Key dates in the construction of the Château
She landscaped the gardens, making changes to Diane’s garden and refining the more intimate garden, which became known as Queen Catherine de Medici’s garden.
There is a lot to explore inside the Château, including all the bedrooms of former Royal residents. The present owners have done an incredible job of recreating and maintaining all the original features, furnishings. There is incredible attention to detail.
Catherine De Medici’s bedroom
Diane De Poitier’s bedroom
Louis XIV’s drawing room
We loved having a nose around the Château’s kitchen
Years later, the Chateau was passed on to Louise de Lorraine, following the assassination of her husband King Henry III (son of Catherine de Medici). Louise de Lorraine’s death in 1601 marked the end of Royal presence at Chenonceau.
Chenonceau during the World Wars I and II
Chenonceau was turned into a military hospital during the WWI.
The Chateau became a military hospital during the WWI
It also played an important part during WWII when the gallery of the château was used by the French Resistance to smuggle people out of the occupied part of France.
The border between the occupied part of France was on the banks of the River Cher.
This is the gallery built on the bridge over the Cher River. One side of the river was the German occupied France and the other was freedom
Therefore, the main entrance to the château was under German occupation and the exit at the other side of the Gallery was under French control, facilitating the escape of many people towards freedom.
Château de Chenonceau has been nicknamed Le Château des Femmes (the Women’s Castle) due to the women that have influenced its many transformations.
The flower displays at Château de Chenonceau
As we walked around exploring all the rooms there was the smell of sweet fragrances in the air, the rooms are filled with fragrance and beautiful flower displays that are in itself a good reason alone to visit the Chateau.
Beautiful and fragrant flower displays in every room
Even the staff quarters were decorated with flowers
Pretty flowers everywhere
Colourful displays of amaryllis, hyacinths, orchids, roses, tulips etc and a variety of grasses and even vegetables are used to create the extraordinary floral masterpieces. The flowers and vegetables are grown at the Chateau’s own flower nurseries
Chenonceau later passed into private ownership and is today owned by the Menier family, the world famous French chocolatier family.
Tips for visiting Château de Chenonceau
We visited during our stay at Amboise. The Chateau was just 30 minutes from the motorhome Aire we had been staying at during our three days visit to the Loire Valley. If visiting by motorhome like us, there is allocated free parking spaces, although overnight parking is not allowed.
If travelling by train Chenonceau station is right by the Château, but I guess if you are coming from Paris or other areas you would first have to stop at Tours and change trains there for Chenonceau.
I would recommend visiting during the low or shoulder season, since it can get very crowded in the summer. If visiting in the summer arrive early in the morning or later in the afternoon to avoid the worst of the crowds.
Our visiting tickets cost us 14.50 Euro each, which included a visiting guide booklet. We both really enjoyed our visit and felt the ticket price was totally worth it. Altogether we spent about 2 to 3 hours exploring the Château and its gardens, there is lots to see.
Au Revoir France
Leaving the Chateau and the Loire Valley on our rear mirror we made our way towards Ruffec on France’s Charente region. Staying two nights at the campsite Le Rejallant GPS position N 46°00’53”, E 0°12’54” we used our ACSI discount card for the first time and got a motorhome pitch for 12 Euro per night all services and electric hook up included.
Apart from a very short walk around the site and towards the river, we did not venture far and spent our time relaxing, reading books and doing our badly needed clothes washing…the glamorous side of motorhome travelling.
With clean clothes we pointed our motorhome wheels towards Bergerac. We thought it would be nice to stay at the nearby Aire and explore the town, but on arrival we did not like the look of the Aire.
We hot footed right out of there and continued driving for another hour to stay overnight instead at the lovely free Aire by the side of a canal at Caumont Sur Garonne (N 44. 44202 E 0. 17877). It was quite tight to get in, but a peaceful and beautiful location. No electric hook up here though.
Lovely Aire by the canal
Leaving the flat terrain of the Charente behind we stated climbing towards France’s Basque region, with the Pyrenees Mountain Range on our sight we arrived at the pretty town of St. Jean Pied de Port, where we stayed for one night at the town’s Aire, GPS position N43.16502 W1.23182 costing 8 Euro for 24 hrs, all services and electric hook up included.
Getting into the Aire required befriending a French couple, since the machine would only accept French bank cards…very weird. So, we gave them cash and they bought the parking ticket for us.
Pilgrims walking the Camino Frances will usually be starting from St Jean Pied de Port. It can take them about 35 days to complete the almost 800kms/ 500 miles to Santiago de Compostela. Brian and I had planned to walk the Camino Frances last September, but due to family commitments we have postponed it. We are still keen to do it in the near future.
Bridge that pilgrims will be crossing as they depart on the long walk to Santiago de Compostela.
Since we felt that we will be back here in the future for our “Camino” walk we did not linger here for long and just did a quick exploring around the little town.
We left mid-morning the next day bidding au revoir to France…for now at least, but we will certainly be back soon. Using the toll roads we crossed the border into Spain and the next leg of our adventure continued.
Oh the hardship of being a royal, lol. I didn’t realize that Diane was twice his age; a cougar before the term was invented 😉 What a beautiful Chateau! Definitely on my list when I venture France. I want a bed like Catherine’s, but with a soft mattress.
Enjoy Spain, I know I did 🙂
Diane was definitely a cougar getting together with the young King. Interestingly she was married at age 15 to a man 39 years her senior, who later died and she became a widow. Strange times. All the beds at the Chateau were amazing…but yes a softer mattress for sure 🙂 I hope you get to visit the Chateau soon, there are so many beautiful one’s in the Loire 🙂
What an interesting Château, Gilda. If only those walls could talk. You and Brian must have been moved by your visit to Saint-Jean-Piedde-Port. During my visit there in 2014, I had the sudden urge to just start walking toward Santiago. Fortunately, I came to my senses before setting off. I hope you guys get back there to do the camino, sometime in the not-to-distant future.
Joe, the Château was stunning and its history fascinating. There are so many beautiful Chateaus in that area and the difficulty is choosing which one to visit. Visiting Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port has confirmed to us that we really would love to do the “Camino Frances” to Santiago de Compostela, but I think we will need to get a bit fitter first 🙂
Physical fitness is undeniably important to complete the Camino, but the mental fortitude to get up and walk 25 km for 35 straight days is truly impressive.
Joe, it is something I would love to be able to do. I think it would be very rewarding…but like you said very hard mentally and physically 🙂
Just 14 and tangling with a cougar. Go Henry!
Suzanne, Henry was quite a naughty King, apparently Diane was not his only mistress. His long suffering wife did get her revenge in the end 🙂
Wow, so a love triangle to thank for that beautiful Chateau.
We are also planning to walk The Way. It will be a few years before we are able to do it, hopefully you will get there first and then blog about it. I’ll be here taking notes.
I think you would enjoy photographing this gorgeous Château 🙂 and you would do a better job than me for sure. The love triangle gave the visit an added layer of interest for me, it was fascinating to learn about all the people involved in it’s transformation…mostly women who have all added their mark.
Amazing history! insane. I can’t believe that she moved in to the chateau after the mistress had been using it. I would have to raze it and start from scratch :-). It’s beautiful though… the king must have been a horny bastard! Love it!
Kemkem, you made me giggle with this comment 🙂 It is stunning and one of those places that don’t disappoint. The inside is also gorgeous. I would recommend a visit 🙂
The Château de Chenonceau is absolutely beautiful Gilda and all the flowers look so pretty. Fascinating historical information too – all the women who’ve been part of the story would give it an added dimension of interest for me! 🙂
Rosemary, finding out about all the six women that have built this Chateau has been fascinating. It really has add extra interest and fascination for me 🙂 Like Joe (above) mentioned…if walls could talk 🙂
Gilda. I am savouring your blog posts. Your writing and photos make the places come alive. So here I am with a cup of tea in front of my computer, the house is silent and I am treasuring this post. First of all because I think Catherine de Medici was a formidable woman. I found out about her when watching the life of Queen Mary who spent a lot of time in the French Court. The Chateau de Chenonceau looks impressive. I loved the history you shared with us here. Loire de Valley is indeed full of lovely surprises and so beautiful. You have now seen the beginning of the French Camino and no doubt will soon be back to do your own personalised camino. I am impressed with the price of the pitches and what you are saving in hotel costs. But this is nothing compared with the freedom to drive away from places that do not impress you. I am so proud and happy to see you enjoying your beautiful dream and experiencing the well deserved freedom you have longed for. Thank you for sharing this adventure with us.
Val, I am so happy to be keeping you company with my blog whilst you are having a cuppa 🙂 I can picture you right now 🙂 Catherine de Medici was a very strong lady, a formidable woman indeed. During my visit to the Chateau it was so fascinating to hear about the six women that have shaped this place, including Catherine and Diane. It was exciting to see the start of French Camino at St-Jean-Pied-de Port , I felt compelled to star walking towards Santiago de Compostela…but not yet, maybe next year? Thank you for your lovely and thoughtful comment 🙂
Whoa! Flashback memory. We walked over that bridge to launch our Camino just shy of 4 years ago. It’s a good thing I didn’t know what was to come or I may have said, forget it! 🙂
European history is insanely interesting but so hard to keep straight. Two of my absolute favorites places we’ve visited were Versailles (in January, no crowds) and Fountainebleu, which is the lessor known but it is beyond fascinating, also in January so no crowds. If you make your way back through France, don’t miss them if you haven’t already done so.
Patti, I remember well your brave walk across Spain. I thought of you when I crossed that bridge. Brian and I would love to walk the “Camino” perhaps next year 🙂 I have not yet been to Versailles or Fontainebleau, but both firmly on my wish list. Good advice to visit during low season to avoid crowds 🙂
Loved the introduction to the Château de Chenonceau, the scandalous history (who wants to hear about saints anyway?) and your great photos that show what a magnificent place this castle is. What more can I say but “Wowsers!” Anita
Thank you Anita, the French court was full of scandalous history hahaha. I guess same as all the other Royal families around the world…it does make it for interesting reading 🙂 The Château de Chenonceau is definitely worth a visit if your travels bring you to the Loire Valley. I do recommend visiting during the low or shoulder season 🙂