Córdoba And The Mezquita-Cathedral, Spain

Córdoba was once upon a time considered the greatest city in western Europe. Today what brings in most of the punters is the extraordinary Great Mosque of Córdoba, known locally as the Mezquita-Cathedral, one of the oldest structures still standing from the times when  Muslims ruled this region.

A building that has lived many different lives and transformations. Speculated to have been a temple to the Roman god Janus, it was then converted into a church by Visigoths during their occupation of Cordoba in 572. Later on the church gave way to a mosque, which was remodelled and extended a few times by the new Moorish rulers. Eventually it was converted to a Cathedral in 1236 following the Christian conquest, although most of the old Moorish style was kept.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, is the ecclesiastical name of this Catholic cathedral that exists inside the mosque. The building is recognised as one of the most accomplished examples of Moorish architecture.

There are rows and rows of colourful arches and double arches, intricate mosaics in dazzling colour combinations, and on further inspection it will also reveal compelling Christian frescoes on walls and ceilings. The marble columns hold the horseshoe arches made with red and white bricks. In the centre of the Mezquita sits the full size Catholic Cathedral.

In the prayer hall is the mihrab/prayer niche. Used in a mosque to identify the wall that faces Mecca (the birth place of Islam). Muslins make their daily prayers facing towards Mecca.

During the golden Islamic era the city was the capital of the Córdoba Emirate of Al-Andalus.

The complex history of this unique building is very intriguing. I am very sorry but I will not be delving much into this complex history here at all, since it is beyond my scope as a non-history buff. There is a lot of literature out there explaining it all in great detail and I invite you to try and get your head around this fascinating mix of styles and cultures.

I loved the Mosque-Cathedral and it was a place I longed to visit for ages. I looked around mesmerized. Brian on the other hand was a bit underwhelmed by it all, although he did perk up a bit, when we got to the huge Christian Cathedral area. Pondering on how the victorious built their own religious building right in the middle of that of the vanquished – a rub your face in it gesture on a massive scale ?… I guess you have to visit it yourselves and make your own mind about it.

Apparently the Muslin community has campaigned for the Roman Catholic Church to allow them to pray in the complex. However Spanish church authorities and the Vatican have not yet granted permission. A controversial issue that is not unique just to this religious building, or to Spain.

It is free to visit between 08:30 and 09:30 every day (except Sunday); we visited in the afternoon and we paid 10 Euros each.

The exquisite Mosque Cathedral of Córdoba. My photo taken with my mobile phone does not do it justice.

Walking across the Roman Bridge

Built across the Guadalquivir River, it was originally constructed in the first Century BC. Along the centuries it has been reconstructed a few times taking on board some Moorish influences. It was lovely to go for a stroll across it, enjoying the views back to the old town and further along the river.

The Roman Bridge straddling the Guadalquivir River. Mind-bogglingly old.

The Alcázar Of the Christian Monarchs

Don’t leave Córdoba without visiting the Alcázar. Built by the Christians in 1328, after they conquered Córdoba. The palace sits on top of Visigoth, Roman and Islamic Ruins. We really enjoyed visiting it and this time we were both in agreement as to how gorgeous this place is. Not far from the Great Mosque, it is also located in the historic centre of Córdoba.

Views from the tower

Magnificent gardens and courtyards

In Medieval times the site was occupied by a Visigoth fortress. Later on it was taken over by Moors until Christian forces took hold of Cordoba in 1236. The Alcázar was also used as one of the first permanent tribunals of the Spanish Inquisition and as headquarters during the war against the Nasrid Dynasty of Granada.

Apparently Christopher Columbus was entertained here by the King and Queen as he prepared to take his first voyage to the Americas…fancy that. I hadn’t realised he was actually Italian by birth, and had touted the funding of his expedition around various European monarchs unsuccessfully, before Queen Isabella agreed to bankroll him… boy was that a good investment!

Centuries later, Napoleon Bonaparte used it as a garrison for his troops in 1810.

Since the 1950’s it has finally acquired a more benign role as a Spanish National  Monument.

Strolling the backstreets of Córdoba.

Like other great Spanish cities, Córdoba is a mixture of modern and historic. The charming old town has narrow streets, not car friendly at all, but designed to provide shade and a cool air running through it. A much needed feature since the summer temperatures here can be the hottest in all of Spain.

Charming narrow streets

The terraced white houses are tucked into every available space, many with a picturesque courtyard in the centre. The doors and windows are colourful, and often iron grills cover the windows. The white washed walls are covered in pretty flower pots.

The modern city has wider roads and avenues, a very different feel with the larger apartment buildings.

Córdoba’s cool courtyards

In Córdoba,” patios” are a serious business. Although other cities and towns around Spain also love these cool central courtyards, they are a very common feature of many houses here. There is even a competition each May when a fiercely competitive “patio-owners” compete for the trophy of best and most picturesque of all. These quaint outdoor living rooms are an oasis of calm and coolness decorated with lush green leaves, geraniums, roses and jasmine flowers.

At Calle San Basilio you can explore some of these lovely patios; buy a ticket there for about 5 Euros, which gives access to 5 patios privately owned by locals.

Exploring is hunger inducing business, so we enjoyed a meal sitting in one of these al-fresco, picturesque courtyards. The perfect place to refuel and to rest our weary feet.

Lovely meal here at this family-run little restaurant. The courtyard is outdoors, surrounded by white walls and hanging geranium plant pots.

We stayed very centrally, within walking distance of everything at a motorhome Aire (GPS N37.87424 W4.78783) provided by the town. Costing 18 Euros per 24 hours + 2 Euros for fresh water (a little bizarre water charge) there was no electric hook up. If using this motorhome site, I recommend parking at the far end. As far as possible from the main road, since it can be noisy.

If not visiting by motorhome, a stay in the old town would make for the perfect base from where you will be able to explore everything on foot.

Córdoba would make for a great weekend city break, and I would recommend at least two full days here to appreciate its many great sites. But perhaps don’t visit during the summer months when temperatures will likely be unbearable. We visited in March/19 and really enjoyed cooler temperatures, but very sunny and picturesque. Our stay could have been longer, since there was lots more to keep us here, but we had Seville on our sights and so we left happy enough that we did manage to explore what we came here to see.