Cruising Through The Fjords Of Norway
The dramatic fjords and glaciers of Norway are among the most spectacular natural wonders of our little blue planet. They have been recognised as one of the “best-unspoiled travel destinations in the world ” and they are also deservedly a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So no surprise that cruising around the Fjords of Norway has been sitting in our wish list for many years, thinking what better way of seeing this diverse landscape than from the water?
And then in mid-August this year, we found ourselves with a window of opportunity to travel somewhere for one week… wanting little effort but with maximum reward, so we set sail from our home port of Southampton a short 30 minutes drive from our house. Checking into the P&O Ventura, our home for the next seven days, was a breeze; just a case of handing over our luggage, our car keys (so they could take care of our car whilst we were away), present ourselves at the check-in desk at our allocated time with all our documentation, and we were good to go.
Our very comfortable room with a window was already waiting for us and after a quick look around our floating hotel we soon found ourselves up on the top deck having a meal and enjoying a sea view.
We spent the rest of the day and all of the next day chugging across the North Sea towards our first port of call:
Stavanger
Pretty Stavanger
The ship docks right by the old town, so going ashore to explore was very easy. We spent most of the morning exploring this waterfront town which has some of the best preserved wooden buildings anywhere in Norway dating back to the 18th century.
Wooden houses at Gamle Stavanger
Later on, we boarded a small boat tour to one of the most striking tourist attractions near Stavanger called Preikestolen, meaning “Pulpit Rock” or also known as “Preacher’s Pulpit”. It is one of the most photographed places in Norway, and Instagram has certainly done a lot for its reputation. The tour was run by P&O and included the boat trip through Lysefjorden and a stop for waffles with strawberry jam, cream and a hot chocolate drink at a lovely restaurant overlooking the Lysefjorden.
Lysefjorden
Pulpit Rock, just sticking out at the very top
Pulpit Rock is a flat-topped cliff that rises about 1,982 ft/604m above the beautiful Lysefjorden. Many come to this area to climb up to Pulpit Rock or do some of the beautiful hiking trails around this area. But for us, it was a case of straining our necks looking up the gorgeous sheer cliff face. We will definitely return to this area in the near future to do some hiking. It is such a stunning place.
What is a Fjord do I hear you ask?
A Fjord is a deep, narrow and long ocean inlet surrounded by steep mountains. The Fjords are formed when the slow-moving glaciers carve their way through the rock as they move towards the sea. At the end of the Ice age that spawned them, they started retreating and seawater rushed in to replace the ice, flooding the valleys. Norway has the highest concentration of Fjords in the world. We only saw a smidgen of it, but it has left us hungry for more.
Our cruise ship sailed off from Stavanger later in the afternoon as we were already thinking and preparing for our next port of call. Arriving early in the morning at our next destination, we stood up on the top deck with a cup of coffee in hand taking in the quiet beauty surrounding us. There was hardly anyone up yet, total bliss.
Alesund
We booked another P&O excursion here, called ” Land of the Trolls” to explore further inland and find out what is the deal here with so many Trolls lurking around this area?
According to Norwegian folk legend, trolls roam through the mountains of Trollstigen every night but change to stone when they are hit by sunlight each morning. Every country has their own folk legends and stories, and our guide did a good job of telling us many interesting titbits about this region of Norway.
Well…the main event here is the drive through the Trollstigen, Norway’s most visited tourist road with its eleven incredible hairpin turns set among beautiful mountains and waterfalls. Interestingly each bend on the road has its own name, usually named after the person who has been responsible for the building work done at that particular stretch of road. Some segments of the road are mostly carved into the mountainside, a masterpiece of clever engineering.
Before driving down the hairpin bends we stopped for a while to visit the platform viewpoint. We were so disappointed that the whole site was shrouded in mist and fog when we first arrived. But we waited patiently and eventually, luck arrived on our side and as the clouds parted we were able to get a stunningly atmospheric view of the valley ahead and the vertiginous hairpin bends down below.
Viewing platform over the Trollstigen
Trollstigen
But this road is no joy ride as we later found out, in fact, I had my heart in my mouth for most of the way down. Our bus driver was a pro thank goodness..but not so much the driver in front of us who kept getting the hairpin bends wrong and having to reverse every time.
Olden
I think this port of call was probably our favorite of all the ports we visited on this trip. We got up early again to watch the sunrise behind the snow-capped mountains as our ship quietly and serenely glided through the glass-like waters of the Fjord into port. The sun soon started to warm up and temperatures rose to a very pleasantly warm day for exploring the Briksdal Glacier.
Brian enjoying the early morning sail into Olden
Again here we booked a tour bus with P&O which included transportation to the start of the trail up to the glacier, a guide who did very little guiding but who was very friendly and did explain a little about the area, and also included was coffee plus very yummy cakes which we devoured with great pleasure after the hike.
The bus left us at a large car park where there is a Lodge/cafe, gift shop, and toilet facilities. From there it is a 3 km easy to moderate hike up to the arm of the glacier which plunges down 1200 meters into the valley. Briksdalsbreen is an arm of the great Jostedalsbreen Glacier, located inside the Jostedalsbreen National Park.
For people who do not enjoy hiking or are unable to hike due to poor mobility, there are “Trollcars” that can be hired from the car park shop to take you up to the glacier. Each car can hold up 7 to 10 people. The road used for the” Trollcars” is not the same as the hiker’s road, but with just as stunning views all around.
We chose to hike, taking our time to enjoy the spectacular scenery of forested mountain tops, rock cliffs and waterfalls tumbling down the valley. You can hear the rushing water from the larger waterfall as you get closer to the glacier. The ice-cold spray of water can be felt as you cross a bridge very close to the waterfall.
We found the hike up to the glacier very easy indeed, but I expect the reason for that was that we were still very fit from the many strenuous hikes we had very recently done in Peru. And here we did not have to endure the high altitudes we experienced in Peru…there was so much more oxygen to breathe here just above sea level that our lungs could not believe their luck. If you are planning to do this hike make sure you are wearing comfortable hiking shoes/trainers. The hike up takes about 45 minutes, a bit shorter time for the way down…but of course, depends on how often you stop for photos.
Hike to Briksdal Glacier
Crossing the bridge is a guarantee of a cool water spray
You can see the Trollcars route here
Stunning scenery all around
Once we reached the top we were met by a green glacial lake and above it the tong of the glacier spilling down into the small lake. It would have been a very peaceful setting if not for the many tourists branding their selfie sticks. We enjoyed it nonetheless (we are tourists too, so can’t really complain) and we took our time there to enjoy such breathtaking scenery.
Brian and me at Briksdal Glacier
Upon our return to the car park area, we enjoyed coffee and cakes at the lovely little lodge/cafe area. Soon it was time to return to our cruise ship, and after a meal and a rest, we left the ship again for a little exploring around the small and very pleasant village of Olden. We walked towards the old Olden church built in 1759 and also the “new” Olden church built in 1934. There are alpine views all around, it is a town surrounded by great natural beauty.
Old Olden church built circa 1759
New Olden church built 1934
It is all about outdoor pursuits in this area. We vowed to return here in the near future to explore more and linger for longer to fully appreciate what this region has to offer. Unfortunately, our time exploring this stunning region soon ended and we sailed away to our next, and last, destination.
Bergen
Our last destination on this cruise was Bergen, Norway’s second largest city. Although beautifully situated in a convergence of Fjords Bergen, was shrouded in mist and the rain was pouring down heavily. It is known for being one of the wettest cities in Europe and it certainly did not disappoint on that front. We did venture out in any case, armed with umbrellas and waterproof clothing that did little to keep us dry and warm. We visited the fish market..very briefly since there was not a lot to see there. We also walked around Bryggen, the famous old timber wharf with Unesco World Heritage Site status.
Bergen shrouded in mist and rain
The Bryggen in the rain
But the rain eventually defeated us and we returned to our floating vessel to have a warm shower, rest and another delicious meal aboard the Ventura.
Cruising Meals
There was some great food to be had on our one week cruise with P&O’s Venture and I am talking here about the main dining room, not the specialty restaurant’s where a cover charge is required. I am not a great fan of buffet-style meals since they are usually about quantity and not quality, although on the few occasions we did venture into the buffet style restaurant we were pleasantly surprised with the good quality on offer.
Our dining companions from my right were Mary, her daughter Kim, Ed, his wife Norma, Karyn and her mum Selma.
Yummy meals every day
We chose to eat mostly at the A La Carte main restaurant with a fixed meal time for our evening meal. It was a great choice for us, and we really lucked out with our lovely dining companions and had a lot of fun with them all. Every night we got together to talk about what our days’ had brought, our plans for the next day, and onwards to enjoyable discussions about a variety of subjects, We got to know each other quite well over the week and are still in touch with via social media.
Will We Cruise Again?
It is a resounding “yes” from us… the simplicity of unpacking once and seeing multiple destinations without having to figure out all the logistics is very appealing. Particularly when we live so close to a major cruising port. Cruising can be great value for money when you consider all that is included, particularly the great food and entertainment that comes with the deal. For an expensive country to visit like Norway, cruising can be a real saving. There are of course some frustrations with cruising such as not being able to get to know a destination more in depth, and with only a few hours in port, it can be a case of only choosing one major highlight to see at each port of call. But it’s a great way to get a little taster and figure out if you want to return for a slower, deeper visit.
Glacier views into the distance
We will visit Norway again very soon, but our plan is to stay a lot longer next time and truly immerse ourselves into all that this great country has to offer.
What a delightful and picturesque way to spend a week. I haven’t been to Norway YET, and this is a lot of inspiration.
Peggy, it was very relaxing indeed. The scenery all around us was breathtaking, I think you would love it 🙂
Your photos are lovely, they make me want to be there. I’ve seen so many photos of that hair-raising twisty curvy road and I always think I’d get SO car sick as a passenger in a car on that road. I turn green just thinking about.
We haven’t yet been to Norway, but would love to do so. There are always so many places in the world to see, aren’t there? We’ve been so focused on Portugal and our residency that we haven’t explored much beyond Portugal in the past 1 1/2 years, well that, and a grandbaby! But, now that the residency is settled for two years we’ve got some breathing room and a whole lot of places we’d love to see.
Cruising on the Fjords, did you find it to be calm waters?
Patti, we had calm waters on this trip. I did not need to take any sea sickness medication at all. I am so glad you got your residency sorted and will now be able to explore more of Portugal and Europe at a more leisurely pace. Having the grandbaby is the best adventure of all 🙂
From your photos, stunning is the perfect description. My beau isn’t much of a traveler, yet joins me when I pick somewhere that he thinks he’ll enjoy, which Norway seems to be, with the exception, he isn’t sure he will like a cruise. My travel plans are set for the upcoming year, so I’ll keep it in mind for 2020, if I can get him in the boat that is, lol (wow, that date seems crazy lol).
Hahaha, I can imagine you thinking “a nomad and a non-traveler, how does that work?!” Funny enough, very well. We never get tired of each other, that’s for sure 😉 I enjoy downtime with him and he’s discovered some cool places he never would have gone.
Paula, often opposites attract and sounds like you and him are a great match 🙂 Norway will impress you both, it is a stunning country. A cruise is a good way of experiencing the Fjords, but there are cruises…and there are cruises. It is a matter of choosing the right one for you and your beau. Our plans for 2019 are to travel a lot in Europe, We have been so focused on going further afield that we have neglected places a lot nearer to us…time to correct that 🙂
Gilda, your photographs alone make me want to visit here, but I really appreciate the time you took to explain the points of interest and information about the cruise ship. I don’t think I could make the bus ride with the hairpin turns, but the destination is so compelling and would be a shame to miss. I can’t help but notice that it doesn’t look very cold there. Would April and May be a good time to visit also?
Suzanne, your compliments on my photos mean a lot to me, thank you:) The Trollstigen looks scary, but trust me you will love it. People drive very slowly there, the bus was almost crawling along which was just perfect for really appreciating the beauty all around you. I recommend travelling there in June/July/August since it will be warmer and greater chances of good weather:)
Spectacular Gilda! Europe is full of surprises. I was taken aback by the beauty of the areas you visited in Norway. Bucket list getting huge. Keep them coming.
Val, our bucket list is getting bigger all the time isn’t it? One life time is just not enough 🙂 I have lusted after a cruise through the Fjords of Norway for many years, it was great to finally get there. We were very lucky to get good weather most of the time, since it can be very hit and miss…a bit like our British weather 🙂
What a lovely post Gilda.
I’m a great “Let’s-go-to-that-place-cos-it’s-a-water-destination person, and love your description about the fjords. You both look very happy & relaxed.
And your photos are great! 😀
I haven’t been to the fjords myself, but we’re doing the next best thing. My teen and I are going to Norway for a “quick weekend” away and since we still have school to contend with, we’re going to Oslo!
Victoria, this cruise was a great way of exploring some of the stunning Fjords. We will go back to Norway for sure, there is so much to see there. I will look forward to hear how you enjoy Oslo with your son 🙂
Thanks so much for saying that you would cruise again! Nothing pisses me off more than these travel snubs who insist that cruising is not “real” travel..silly me, I thought the whole point is to travel. Period. My goodness, Norway is insanely beautiful and l am going to utter words l don’t think l have ever said before. I would do a hike there :-). Gorgeous. Those scallops look amazing and l am positive l would have enjoyed all the food onboard. Great post!
Kemkem, sometimes there is no better way to see a destination than from the water. The Fjords of Norway are certainly one of those places. We have cruised many times and we have always loved it. As with everything there are pros and cons, but we feel that cruising can be very good value for money, just the food is a very good reason to give it a go. I think you would love this hike Kemkem, it might convert you into becoming a keen hiker after all hahaha 🙂
What a beautiful place for a cruise, Gilda. The natural scenery is stunning, and you captured it very nicely in your photos. Norway looks like a nature lovers paradise.
Thank you Joe, a cruise was the perfect way to see the beautiful Fjords of Norway. We are already planning a return visit next summer. But next time it will be on a road trip, since we want to explore it at our own pace. Norway is indeed a nature lovers paradise 🙂
Sounds like another sublime adventure, Gilda. Keep us posted!
Well, I am off a to Norway ostensibly to see the Northern lights late 2019, but think I need to see it in the summer too…maybe, maybe..
Sue, the Northern lights are in my wish list also. Apparently you can see them in Norway as early as the end of August/ September if the conditions are right. There is an app that can tell you when you are most likely to see them…a sort of Northern lights forecast. I am sure you will love Norway, l hope you will enjoy photographing this beautiful country 🙂
You’ve put something in my head. We wanted to visit Norway in 2019 but it’s an expensive destination and not really suited to our kind of travel. But the cruise idea – hmmm. I like it. I could see us taking a week off from full-time travel to do this, just seems much easier than travelling Norway Independently.
That first photo from Trollstigen – Wow!
Frank, I am glad you found the post useful, sometimes it is lovely to take a break of all the planning and researching involved when you do the more independent travelling. A cruise can be a very relaxing way of seeing some beautiful sights. Norway is indeed expensive, a cruise can be very good value for money considering all that is included. There is some scope for independent travelling when getting to the Ports of call, you can choose to do your own thing, rather than excursions. The Trollstigen was definitely a wow place, I hope you get to visit Norway in 2019 🙂
I have never been on a cruise, but I can certainly see the appeal of it, especially after reading your blog. I visited Norway with my family as a summer vacation from Belgium, when I was a teenager. Even then, it left an impression and a desire to return. I remember the fjords and the town of Bergen during this two-week visit.
I can totally see why Olden was your favorite destination. What a jaw-droppingly stunning place. That hike would be right up there for me. I want to do it right now! Well, whenever it’s summer again. But, I’d have to get in shape first. 🙂
And, how easy that you could just hop aboard the cruise ship and leave, living only 30 minutes away. I also totally understand why this way of travel was just a teaser and why you’d want to return for a more in-dept experience overland – to hike, sight-see and immerse yourselves. The first destination with your camper?
I’m sending your blog post to my parents, who are hoping to do a cruise in the Norwegian fjords soon as well. 🙂
Liesbet, you have already done the best type of cruising you can ever do…having your own boat, so fabulous. The places you have explored, for sure absolutely gorgeous. I can’t wait to read your book about those special years on your boat.
Living so near the cruising port here in the South of England is great, we often keep an eye out for good last minute deals.
We are getting our Moho in January/19 and we will be heading South of Europe first for the winter, but it is our plan to head over to Norway around June/July time. We can’t wait to do a road trip there 🙂
Thanks for sharing this blog post with your parents, I think they will love cruising around the Fjords of Norway, you just can’t go wrong with such beautiful scenery. 🙂
A stunning landscape, beautifully photographed, Gilda. 🙂 🙂 You mention Instagram. Do you have an account on there?
Jo, thank you. Looking at my photos I wish I had taken my DSLR for the landscape photos, but maybe next time I will. Norway has some breathtaking scenery, we were spellbound 🙂 I do have Instagram Jo, look out for me there under TravellerInterrupted 🙂
This looks amazing. My parents did a very similar cruise from Southampton a few years ago and loved it too. I would love to go to Norway but have always been put off by the price, as you mention though, cruising might actually be a pretty low-cost way to visit. Shame the weather turned for your last stop, but you got some stunning views of the scenery. I had to laugh about: ‘your lungs can’t believe their luck’ – I remember that lung-busting altitude in Peru well 🙂
Amy, Peru left us all breathless hahaha. This cruise was beautiful, the Fjords are just gorgeous. We want to go back to Norway in June/July on a road trip. We just bought a motorhome and hope to start touring Europe at the end of January 🙂 we will head South to Spain and Portugal first. I hope we will get to meet up in the Algarve 🙂
Wow! Breathtaking scenery and gorgeous photos! Norway has always been a place I wanted to see but the costs have always put me off. What a terrific idea to find a cruise and combine all your travel expenses. I like the idea of a taster because, from what I hear you describe, Norway is definitely a country that deserves to be explored in depth! Anita
Bacana!
Gostei muito!
Matti
Obrigada Matti. Queremos visitar a Noruega outra vez com a nossa Motorhome 🙂
Olá Gilda.
Idéia é ótima. Nós fizemos duas viagens para a Noruega. O mais incrível é o Nordkapp. Eu sugiro que você viaje pela Finlândia. Nossa zona costeira é cheia de pequenas cidades coloridas. Há muito para ver, que você não pode imaginar. Turku é uma cidade linda. Tem uma antiga catedral, um antigo castelo e um museu incrível.
Museu de Artesanato de Luostarinmäki
Catedral de Turku
Aqui está um exemplo da pequena cidade de Kokkola:
Neristan Old Town in Kokkola
Ao continuar para Oulu, então você deve visitar aqui:
Ilha de Hailuoto
Em Oulu há um lugar lindo, chamado Nallikari, para parar o seu carro:
Praia do Ártico no verão
De Oulu Você deve continuar em Rovaniemi, que fica no Círculo Ártico:
De Rovaniemi a Nordkapp, Noruega, aqui está o meu posto de viagem:
Road trip to Nordkapp
Então, esta é minha sugestão para ir a Noruega via Finlândia.
Pense nisso e se você precisar de algum conselho, eu vou ajudar.
Os meus melhores cumprimentos,Matti
Matti, obrigada pelas dicas. Quero muito conhecer a Finlandia tambem. Se nao for nessa viagem com certeza no future. Vou dar uma olhada nesses lugares sugeridos e blog posts. Valeu, obrigada 🙂
Oh, I can see I have to add a Norway fjord cruise to my bucket list!
I would definitely recommend it. Norway is expensive and I think visiting it on a cruise can be a good alternative. Admiring the scenery as you cruise through a beautiful Fjord is just breathtaking.
Incredible photos, looking at them, I kind of was there. Thanks for this opportunity! I’m impressed!
John, thank you so much. It was this cruise that made our mind up to visit Norway again for a longer stay. We went back with our motorhome and we toured the country for almost 3 months. Norway is such a beautiful country. Thank you for your visit to my blog and your kind comment 🙂