Óbidos- A Central Portugal Precious Gem

Óbidos is a precious and charming gem in Central Portugal. Wrapped up within the remains of its high ancient walls, it is a visually beautiful town. Being very popular as an easy day trip from Lisbon, it is inundated by tourist crowds during the day, but virtually empty by night time and that was when we enjoyed it the most.
But I am getting ahead of myself here, before I tell you more about our stay in Óbidos, let’s rewind back to my last blog post as we left Sintra bound for Peniche. Keen to avoid driving through Lisbon with our motorhome we decided that the easiest way would be to join the toll road out of the city. At a cost of 13 Euros it was worth it and we arrived in one piece at the Peniche motorhome Aire just an hour and half later.

Peniche

Peniche lighthouse

Following our full-on days of exploration in Sintra, Peniche fitted the bill perfectly for a couple of days of fresh sea air and much needed relaxation. We stayed here for two nights at the excellent local Aire (GPS N39.3661 W9.3787), enjoying long walks by the breezy Atlantic Ocean, eating at local Portuguese seafood restaurants and doing some much needed motorhome chores such as getting our clothes washing done at the local laundrette…the glamourous side of motorhome travelling.

Our visit to the laundrette turned out to be quite entertaining when half way through our clothes washing cycle a burst pipe turned our sedate clothes washing expedition into a climb-onto-the-seats-fast to avoid the flood coming our way.

The weather was not great with a mixture of showers and sunny spells. We particularly wanted to visit this area for a trip to the Berlenga Grande Island with its Nature Reserve and old Monastery. Unfortunately, the sea was very rough for a boat trip. Also trips to the Island don’t start until later on in May, we were here too early for that.

Peniche is battered by the Atlantic waves, see in the distance the Berlenga Grande Island

With the weekend approaching and the weather improving we rolled on to another sea town destination which was on the way to our ultimate destination of Óbidos.

Foz Do Arelho

Foz do Arelho has a beautiful sandy beach by this lagoon, ideal for families with young children. The Atlantic side is great for surfers.

We thought of stopping here for the weekend (it was just 30 minutes away from Óbidos) The reviews for the Foz do Arelho motorhome Aire (GPS 39.42784 W9.21989) were very good and on arrival we found a great motorhome spot right by the sea front. A gorgeous sandy beach spreading in front of us on the shores of the Óbidos lagoon.

Perfect location, but noisy neighbours

The river mouth estuary ends up at the Atlantic ocean where the kite and windsurf crowd congregates to make the most of the strong winds and huge waves.

We decided to stay for one night enjoying the beach front location. The weather had improved, but with the weekend looming the campsite got a bit too busy for our liking, it was in fact the loudest motorhome site we had stayed so far. We still recommend it though for its location, just avoid during Bank Holidays, at weekends and high summer season…otherwise it is lovely.
Having had our fill of seaside relaxation, we drove just 30 minutes away,  and before we knew it we arrived at the motorhome Aire of Óbidos (GPS N39.3563 W9.1567) just next to the 3km long Aqueduct and within a very easy five minutes’ walk to the walled city.

Óbidos

This town has had a long history of Royal patronage, starting when in 1214 it was presented to Queen Urraca as a wedding present. From then on it became a tradition that all Portuguese Queens would be given this town as a present on their wedding day. Beats an electric kettle for sure!

Church of Santa Maria by night

The Church of Santa Maria has quite a history, since it was here that King Afonso V married his eight-years-old cousin Isabel in 1444. Afonso was just ten years old himself.

Walled city of Óbidos

There was a chocolate festival going on in town on the day we arrived, with TV crews and various Portuguese artists singing and dancing in the main square. We stopped to watch the show and found it most amusing that there was a wedding happening at the same time at the Church of Santa Maria located in the main square where a Portuguese TV crew had taken over the whole place… making it very difficult for the bride to be delivered to the church’s front door.

TV crew taking up the square

The bride arrived in a cute little orange Volkswagen beetle, but had to be whisked to the side of the church and wait for the right moment to make her entrance. The groom ended up being interviewed by the Portuguese TV presenter and when asked if he was nervous about getting married, he replied ” not worried about getting married, but you guys are making me nervous”

Bride and Groom came out happily married to a rice shower…for good luck

Eventually the bride managed to make her way into the church and all doors were closed for the private ceremony. I managed to catch a glimpse of the happy couple coming out of the church after they finally managed to tie the knot, just as the TV crew cleared out.

It is a super charming place with a very interesting history, old cobbled streets, atmospheric medieval fortifications, little alley ways that lead into cute houses and gardens.

As the day trippers left the town we had it practically to ourselves at its most atmospheric time. With the dimming night light we basked in the shifting hues which made it even more mysterious and endearing.

Óbidos by night, mysterious and endearing

We ate at a gorgeous local restaurant which was highly recommended, the food was delicious. Luckily we managed to get a table even though we had not booked ahead, but I guess during the high season booking ahead would be necessary.

Step inside this place for an authentic Portuguese meal and a very characterful old building

Don’t leave Óbidos without trying Ginjinha, a liquor type drink made from infusions of ginja berries which was first commercialized in Lisbon at Praça de São Domingos, where it used to be served in a shot form with a piece of the fruit in the bottom of the cup. In Óbidos Ginjinha is commonly served in a small edible chocolate cup.

Ginja de Óbidos is served in a chocolate cup

But don’t do like I did and throw the chocolate cup in the bin before realising it was edible. D’oh!
We would have loved to have been able to walk the ancient walls around the city and gain a different perspective, but unfortunately the walls were closed for much needed repairs.

If you are driving into Óbidos by car be aware of tiny roads and ancient stone gates that will need to be navigated with a lot of care, there is a large car park just outside the walls where all the tour buses and day trippers park. Do not attempt to drive your motorhome into Óbidos!

Cars have a very hard time entering or exiting the narrow gates of the walled town

A day should be enough to explore this small and quaint town, but if able to stay overnight be ready for a real treat.