Tasting The Douro – Porto And The Douro Valley
The Douro, a river made famous by a very unique product: Port Wine. Tasting the Douro Valley with its many wine varieties became our mission during our visit to this incredible wine producing region. Although wine production is not the only interesting thing to see in this area.
The green rolling hills of the Douro Valley with its slopping terraces brimming with grape vines are famed for being one of the worlds best drives…well, we can certainly attest to that, but it is also one of the hardest, particularly if driving a large motorhome through it. From Passadiços de Paiva/Paiva Walkways we travelled on these windy and twisting roads towards Peso da Régua where we based ourselves for a 3 days visit to this beautiful region.
Peso da Régua or rather just Régua as it is known locally is the base of the oldest demarcated wine region in the world, the Douro DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada), regulated since 1756. Being here for us, besides enjoying this scenic region, was all about understanding what Port wine is all about, how it is grown, fortified and aged.
We were spoiled for choice with so many places that can lead you by the hand or rather by the nose and taste buds on an experience that goes beyond just tasting a product. It teaches the visitor about the livelihood and history of a whole region.
On our very first day in Régua, we booked ourselves on a half day Douro River cruise with food and wine included. Departing from Régua and following the contours of the river all the way to Pinhão. Seeing this incredible landscape from the water gave us a whole new perspective on this region and its many terraced vineyards.
Arriving at Pinhão we saw many of these old Rabelo boats taking visitors on shorter Douro River cruises
Views of Douro Valley hills and wineries from our cruising boat
If travelling to Pinhão by train, you will arrive here at this rather pretty train station. Decorated with gorgeous blue tiles depicting the history of the Douro Valley.
It was also very interesting to witness our cruising boat navigate one of the many River Douro locks. It took just a few minutes for the huge compartment in between the large lock gates to fill up with water and then spit us out the other end, but at a much higher river water level (and reverse the process on the way back).
Navigating through one of the many Douro River locks was fascinating
We were served Port wine at the start of the cruise and during the three course meal we were served both red and white wine locally produced. Our dining table companions were a French couple who luckily for us could speak quite good English (since my French language skills are non existent, although Brian can speak a little) and so we managed to have a delicious meal in good company.
Museu do Douro in Peso da Régua
Located in a manor house, the museum was created in 1997 with a purpose to tell the history of the this area in a interesting and interactive way. It is a journey of discovery into the worlds oldest demarcated and regulated wine region. Made UNESCO world heritage site in 2001. This region produces the famous Port wine (fortified wine), but also many other non-fortified wines…as we have been finding out.
Get your nose over these interesting containers for a whiff of the many flavours found in Port Wine.
We enjoyed spending a couple of hours there and at the end we got a glass of Port wine which is included in the ticket price. There is a garden terrace outside from where to sip your Port wine overlooking the Douro River.
The motorhome Aire, where we stayed parked for our 3 days in Régua was in the most perfect location, overlooking the Douro River and for only 3 Euros per night, we could not have asked for more (GPS N41.1555 W7.7799).
Our motorhome Aire was next to this arched bridge on the margins of the Douro river at Peso da Régua.
There is so much to do in this area, one can spend many days without getting bored. But with only 3 days here we soon found ourselves driving the narrow and twisty roads towards Porto and the next leg of our Port wine education.
Porto
At the margins of the Douro River, lies the fascinating city of Porto.
Beautiful Porto and Dom Luis I Bridge straddling the Douro River
We had high hopes of staying at a motorhome Aire at the Botanical gardens in Porto, but unfortunately it was not to be. The Aire can hold just about 9 motorhomes and it was full. In fact it was the only time on our 4 months trip when we found that there was no room at the inn. So they directed us towards a camping and motorhome site near the beach ” Madalena Parque de Campismo” (GPS N41.1076 W8.6553) which was about a 20 minutes bus journey from Porto or a 10 minutes by Uber.
Porto is Portugal’s second largest city, after Lisbon but it actually felt quite compact, considering how much this great city is able to offer in terms of history, culture, architecture and off course not forgetting the reason most people visit Porto which is to taste one of the world’s most renowned drink: Port wine. It is very hilly, but very walkable and most attractions are within easy… although vertically challenging walking distances.
After spending a few days at the Port wine producing end in the Douro Valley, we were ready for finding out about the processes involved in the aging of Port wine in Porto and in the wine cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia (just across the river from Porto)
View of Porto with the Dom Luis I Bridge, from Vila Nova de Gaia
The things we loved most about Porto besides tasting the best Port wine on offer in this city are as follows:
- Wandering around the traditional neighbourhood of Ribeira, right by the river Douro, there is a great vibrant vibe in this neighbourhood.
- Getting lost in the labyrinth of cobbled streets at the historic centre, the oldest area of the city and classified as World Heritage by UNESCO since 1996. There is lots to see here.
- Strolling along the iconic metal, double decker Dom Luis I Bridge, the views from the top level are spectacular, we took the cable car to the higher level, from Vila Nova de Gaia (just across the river), there is also a funicular that can whisk you up to the top in no time at all and save your legs from climbing uphill.
Cable car from Gaia can whisk up to the top level of the Dom Luis I Bridge.
- Gawping at the work of art of Sao Bento train Station, with its gorgeous blue tiles. In fact the blue tiles are everywhere, particularly adorning the many beautiful churches scattered around the city.
- Finding interesting street art in unexpected places.
Street art: a rabbit made up of recycled items
- Visiting the wine cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia. We loved it so much that we decided to tour two different wine cellars to compare and contrast…purely for research purposes of course …note: not on the same day: Cockburn’s and Ferreira.
Day one: Cockburn’s and Co – founded by two Scottish brothers (Robert and John Cockburn) already successful wine merchants in Leith near Edinburgh. It is the largest wooden Port cellar in the historic area of Vila Nova de Gaia. Their cellars are huge, we had a fantastic guide to show us all. It felt quite intimate with only a small group of people. She explained in great detail how Port wine is fortified, how it is aged, the different types (and colours) of Port wine, the blending process and where the blending is done etc.
Great English speaking guide, very small group and huge cellars to visit.
We were also taken to their special Port vintage wine reserve, where some of the oldest Port wine bottles dated back to the 18th century.
Their vintage reserve is under lock and key. We had a nose around, Port wine bottles from 1861.
We opted to have their picnic offer, where you get a picnic basket containing food and wine to enjoy at their dining area. At the end we could not resist buying few bottles to take home. My friends and family know that I am not a big alcohol drinker, in fact I have been tee-total for many years (since alcohol would often induce a migraine), but the Douro Valley and Porto have broken my fast…to no ill effect.
Port Wine shopping
Day two – Ferreira wine cellar – Established in an old convent, the headquarters are quite memorable. The tour group was much larger and the cellars here are a lot smaller than Cockburn’s. The tour guy was great and very passionate about Port wine. At the end we got to taste three different types of Port wine.
I think my favourite is the “tawny” ,a port wine made from a blend of several vintages matured in wood.
The Ferreira was another very interesting wine tour that we would be happy to recommend. Although if you only have time for one wine tour cellar we would recommend Cockburn’s.
We visited in May/2019 and did not book any of the above tours, we just turned up and bought tickets for the tour there and then. At other busier times, it might be wise to book a tour in advance.
Porto really is an incredible city, no wonder it is a favourite destination for so many who visit Portugal. We loved our 3 days stay and we would not hesitate to recommend it as a fantastic long weekend city break, or longer if you have the time. It is also a very liveable city, a place that we hope to return to sometime in the future.
Porto looks and sounds fascinating. We will start the second leg of our Caminho de Santiago in Porto. Interesting to note that one of the key producers of this famous wine are not Portuguese. I loved the photos too. Good to see you enjoying a bit of fine wine and authentic port on your travels. I heard that if the wine is of high quality it will not give you a headache, You have seen so much on this open road adventure. I appreciate you sharing it all with us. This blog is also a wonderful way of capturing your experiences in great detail for years to come.
Val, how lovely to hear that you and Paul are going to do the Portuguese “Camino”, for sure it will be fantastic. Make sure to arrive in Porto few days before you start walking, since there is lots to see. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that I was able to enjoy Portuguese wine without getting my usual “migraines”, definitely something I took full advantage of during our stay in Porto and the Douro valley. Thank you for your lovely comment 🙂
I love your shots of the terraced vineyards.
Thank you, this area of Portugal is so photogenic. It was hard to put the camera down and just enjoy the amazing scenery.
I was also a “teetotaler” for many years but to live in Portugal and not take advantage of the fantastic Douro wines (with the Alentejo wines following not far behind) is difficult to do and I’m glad you enjoyed your tasting experience! I’ve never participated in a wine tasting before but have booked a 6-day cruise down the Douro river with wine tastings galore in November so … here’s to the taste of marvelous wines and bending an elbow occasionally! Anita
Anita, the Portuguese wine is so delicious, it would be a shame to miss out. Like you I had been a teetotaller for many years (due to the awful migraines I used to get), but I was pleased to discover that I was able to enjoy Portuguese wine without getting a migraine. No doubt your Douro River cruise will be fantastic and you will have plenty of wine tasting opportunities…best place for it. A big “cheers” to you and let’s enjoy our new found love of good wine 🙂
I’ve just had a quick glance at all your recent posts Gilda – sorry I haven’t been on here too much we are starting major renovations tomorrow and it’s been a bit hectic getting everything ready! Our daughter has visited Porto and loved it. In fact she loves Portugal a lot and has booked to go again in August for a week’s surfing holiday. I’ve never been but we do hope to get there some day. I would certainly enjoy tasting all the port and I love wandering round old cobbled streets. Porto looks beautiful! 🙂
Rosemary, renovation work is not for the faint heart. I hope it all goes smoothly for you. Your daughter will love the surfing beaches of Portugal, our absolute favourite was Arrifana in the Alentejo coast…so gorgeous. The wine region of the Douro Valley and Porto is amazing, we loved it. I hope you get to visit this region in the near future. Thank you for visiting the blog 🙂
You’re very welcome Gilda – your blog is a lovely account of all your travels so interesting! Yes this is the biggest project we’ve undertaken (well we’re not actually doing the work ourselves but even the planning was a lot of work – so many decisions!). Will hopefully be worth it in the end – we made the decision to stay put in our current house for hopefully many years to come rather than move. The Portuguese beaches sound wonderful! 🙂
Glad you had such a wonderful experience in Porto and the Douro Valley. We loved our visit there too and it was definitely nice being able to sample the amazing selection of port wine. Sorry there was no room at the inn. Did you feel like Mary? :-). We can’t wait to revisit the area for more wine and food. Gorgeous pictures.
Kemkem, we were keen to stay at the Aire closer to Porto, but unfortunately it was not to be, no room at the Inn…so we had to find another option (I guess we felt a bit like poor Mary hahaha). I would have rather stay more central, but we were able to get public transport easily into the city. We loved Porto, the food and wine are just outstanding. I hope you get to visit again soon 🙂
So glad you made it to our favorite city! Three days is not enough though so you’ll have to return and maybe we’ll cross paths. I have to ask, where did you park your RV?! Porto is not exactly RV friendly. Ha! Ha!
Patti, I can see why you love this city so much…it is gorgeous. We barely scratched the surface and will definitely go back in the future. Would be lovely if our paths can cross somewhere in Europe or in another part of the world. We did not want to drive the RV into Porto, we stayed at Madalena Parque de Campismo, near a beach few miles before Espinho. It was ok and there was a bus into the city, we also used Uber. Porto is a city to go back to many times, we loved it.
Peso da Regua made a good base for us, too, Gilda, though we traveled there by train and back on a barco. I really like the white port and I don’t think I’d tasted it till we went to Porto. Nice account, hon. I think there’s something for everyone in Porto- even non-drinkers 🙂 🙂
Jo, totally agree…there is something for everyone in Porto, it is such a fascinating city. How fun to visit the Douro Valley by train, it is supposed to be a very scenic train ride, and the trip back by boat must also have been very special. We thoroughly enjoyed this region of Portugal…enjoying Port wine was just the icing on the cake 🙂
This looks fantastic, really want to visit this region, in fact we are sipping a rather nice glass of Douro as we read your blog,
It is a beautiful region, a big highlight of our six weeks exploring Portugal. I think you will love it here…the wine alone is worth a trip to this place 🙂
We did not love our time in Lisbon and quickly fell out of love in the idea of exploring more there. Your experiance and photos makes me wonder if we just chose to visit at the wrong time (summer) and base for our travels. Beautiful photos Gilda. Makes me want to go back and explore other regions in Portugal. It also makes me want to drink wine with my breakfast but maybe I should hold off on that :).
Lissette, thank you so much. I agree with you that most places in Europe during the summer holiday season can get a bit too crowded and it is certainly a very different experience when travelling during the shoulder season when it is less crowded. But sometimes it is not possible to travel to certain places in the low season…so you end up having to endure a less pleasurable experience. Porto in May was great, it has became my favourite city in Portugal (we did not visit Lisbon this time, but we have been before). I hope you give Portugal another chance in the future, particularly Porto and the Douro Valley. I think you would love it. I have been tee-total for years, but the wine here is so good even I could not resist it…but maybe not for breakfast…but then again why not?