Our Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage following the Camino Frances route from St. Jean Pied de Port, across Northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, has been the hardest physical thing we have ever done, but also the most rewarding. Millions of pilgrims have followed this same ancient route, as well as other routes that eventually lead to Santiago de Compostela, for hundreds of years. Everyone’s Camino is different, so this post is about reflecting back on our Camino
A pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain has been on our travel wish list for many years, although we had not expected to be walking it during Covid times. According to our research, the Camino is not as busy as before Covid but people have returned, particularly Spaniards who are currently making up the recent increase in “peregrinos” walking the Camino. Also, 2021 is a Jacobean Year/Ano Xacobeo, or in other words a Holy Year, making it even more special
Driving our large motorhome through the scenic, but rather winding, narrow roads of the Picos de Europa mountain range was a little challenging in places, but it turned out to be one of the best and most beautiful road trips we have done during our recently four months touring France, Spain and Portugal by motorhome.
Bordering Asturias, Cantabria and Castilla y León, the Picos de Europa (Europe Peaks) National Park is an absolute gem in Northern Spain. Being a lot less popular than other regions of Spain it is mercifully a lot less touristic and busy than the coastal regions, although during the summer months it will be a lot busier than when we visited.
There is about 300 square miles/482 km square of natural beauty, dramatic high limestone peaks covered with snow in the winter, but now (May/19) thankfully just dusted with snow on some of the higher ground or North-facing sheltered spots.
Leaving Santiago de Compostela behind, we stayed overnight off-grid at Ribadeo (GPS N43.53704 W7.03529), just next to the town port with lovely river views.
The view from our motorhome windows at Ribadeo
Continuing our journey North we stayed two nights at Cudillero, a charming small fishing village in Northern Spain. The weather was bad with a lot of rain, prompting us to stay put there for two nights at the excellent new campsite with great facilities (Camping L’Amuravela GPS N43.55513 W6.14355) and within walking distance, albeit uphill from the pretty Cudillero Harbour.
Cudillero is a small fishing village that feels like frozen in time
Worried about the rain and foggy weather forecasted for the Picos de Europa we decided to stay again for two nights at our next stop of Oviedo at the town’s free motorhome Aire (GPS N43.3830 W5.8237). There was a cancer charity race going on over the weekend and therefore there were lively with music bands and entertainment. Oviedo is an interesting city with a lovely historic centre, cafes and restaurants, two nights was enough to explore.
Guess who is a big fan of Oviedo? This controversial life-size statue of Woody Allen is a landmark in Oviedo’s town centre.
With sunshine now forecasted for the Picos de Europa, we drove towards the Covadonga Lakes and the start of five wonderful days of exploring this mountainous landscape.
Our route: From Oviedo, we drove to Covadonga for the Santa Cueva (Holy Cave) and Covadonga Lakes > Cangas de Onis >Arenas de Cabrales (for exploring Bulnes and Cares Gorge) > Fuente De > Potes > Comillas > Bilbao (for our ferry home to England).
Covadonga Lakes
The road from Covadonga village up to the Covadonga Lakes is closed for private vehicles during the summer months, but there is a bus service that can be taken from Covadonga and will take tourists up to the Lakes. Some people will choose to trek from the Covadonga Santa Cueva up to the Lakes, but it is quite a steep and long hike.
We were visiting in May/19 and therefore the road was still open for cars and motorhomes (there are no bus services from Covadonga at this time of the year). The road is narrow in places and there are sheer drops at one side, but it is a very good road surface and not too narrow, so even with our 7 metres motorhome it was not a particularly difficult drive (according to Brian).
We gained about a thousand metres of altitude as we climbed our way up the 12 Km road to the Lakes. There are places to stop along the road with gorgeous viewpoints and sweeping views over the Picos, the green Cantabrian countryside and even the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. The main hazards here are the cows and goats wandering on the road.
Sheep, cows and goats are the biggest hazards on these roads
These lucky cows have a great lake view at the Covadonga Lakes
Arriving at the top we parked at the site car park and chose to do a circular hike from Lake Enol to Lake Ercina. The idyllic mountain scene is complete with cows and goats carrying the heavy but melodic bells around their necks, the bell sounds echoing throughout the mountains, you can hear them from everywhere, a very reassuring sound. The lake waters are still as a mirror, surrounded by the grey jagged mountain peaks. Our short hike was just over one hour and packed full of great scenery.
The fog was rolling in as we arrived at lake Ercina adding an air of mystery
There are various hike routes in this area, including one to visit the mines of Buferrera, which used to produce iron and magnesium in abundance between 1893 and 1932.
Cangas De Onis
Just as we were heading back from Lake Ercina to our home on wheels, the fog was rolling in. Therefore we decided to head straight down the mountain to our free overnight stay in Cangas de Onis (N43.35225 W5.12549) about 27 Km drive from the Lakes. The motorhome Aire there was conveniently located in the town centre, giving us a chance to explore the town before night time.
Ancient bridge at Cangas de Onis with a replica of the Victory Cross
As history will have it, around the year 722, Don Pelayo established his court here. A replica of the famous Spanish Victory Cross can be seen hanging from the ancient bridge straddling the Sella River in the town centre. The Victory Cross represents the legendary victory over the Moors that is reported to have happened at Covadonga.
We left Cangas de Onis early next morning retracing our steps back to Covadonga, since we were keen to visit the Santa Cueva/Holy Cave (unfortunately we missed visiting it during our visit to the Covadonga Lakes the day before, it would have made more sense to visit both sites in the same day and avoid having to backtrack).
Santa Cueva and the Basílica de Santa María la Real de Covadonga
We parked at the main car park in front of the Basilica, arriving early and so managing to secure a good parking spot. The Basilica has striking pinkish limestone walls with the tower spires looking regal against the rugged mountain scenery.
Arriving early we got this great parking spot in front of the Basilica, for our exploring of this area
In front of the Basilica, there is a proud statue of Don Pelayo.
Don Pelayo Statue
After exploring the Basilica we walked towards the tunnel that leads into the Santa Cueva (Holy Cave), to the simple church built inside the cave, holding the statue of the Virgen of Covadonga, patron saint of Asturias. The name Covadonga means “Cave of Our Lady” and it refers to the sanctuary dedicated to the virgin.
The cave is also reported to contain the remains of Don Pelayo, his wife and also King Alfonso I.
This tunnel leads into the Holy Cave
Holy Cave/ Santa Cueva with the chapel.
Many believe the great Christian reconquest began here since when the Christians defeated the Moors around the year 722 the Holy Cave was the site of refuge before the legendary battle. Legend has it that the Virgin Mary appeared to the Christian army before the battle, therefore aiding their victory. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit and although it is a very touristic site, we managed to explore it before the many tour buses arrived.
The remains of Don Pelayo are reported to be buried here, he died in 737. The tomb is found inside the Santa Cueva, to the right of the little chapel’s altar.
From here we drove towards Arenas de Cabrales, where our home on wheels stayed parked at a really nice and friendly campsite for the following three nights (Naranjo de Bulnes Campsite GPS N43.29928 W4.80258). Our reason for staying here was its close proximity to the hidden mountain village of Bulnes and the incredible Cares Gorge hiking trail.
Bulnes Funicular
We did drive the motorhome to the Bulnes Funicular, managing to get a parking spot for our motorhome by the funicular’s entrance located near the tiny village of Poncebos. Not always possible, since parking here is very limited. The funicular is an easy 8 minutes ride that sets off every 30 minutes, via a tunnel carved through the mountain. Quite a feat of engineering.
Can you spot Brian?
The village of Bulnes standing at about 2,400 feet, it is one of the most remote in Europe. Before the funicular construction, it was only reachable via trails up the Mountain ranges of Naranjo de Bulnes, which could take 2 to 3 hours. Hikers can still hike the trails instead of coughing up the 22 Euros per person to ride the funicular.
The funicular has made the Bulnes village, which has a population of about 34 people, a lot easier to reach and it is now a popular tourist destination. Although there were only another 3 couples boarding the funicular with us when we visited, it can get very busy during the summer months.
Coffee with an amazing view, at the hidden village of Bulnes. This viewpoint is in Upper Bulnes, see the trail heading down to Poncebos on the right.
It is a beautiful setting for this tiny village, we loved exploring and walking up some of the trails through the village which is divided into lower Bulnes and higher Bulnes. We ate a delicious homely meal at one of the little restaurants in lower Bulnes and then walked up to a viewpoint at higher Bulnes.
Some people choose to go up with the funicular and then walk down to Poncebos via the trail, but we were feeling lazy and so decided to return using the funicular again.
Poncebos has another great attraction, the amazing Cares Gorge hiking trail. We were to tackle it the next day, so we drove the motorhome back to the campsite where it would stay safe for the next two days, whilst we walked the Cares Gorge trail.
Cares Gorge/Garganta Del Cares
Also called the “Divine Gorge”, this deep gorge is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful one-day hiking trails in Europe. The 12 km path is in places carved at the side of the mountains with the Cares River raging at the bottom of the Gorge. A linear path surrounded by awesome scenery at every turn.
Awesome scenery at every turn
The original 1916 precarious path was not as good as it is today; at the time it was used as a maintenance track for a hydro-electric station so workers of the electricity company could monitor a water canal, which carried some of the Cares River water that supplied power to the hydroelectric. In the 1940s and ’50s, a better path was built to improve access for canal maintenance, and that is the path used by tourists today.
See part of the water canal here
It is now a well-maintained path, easy to walk albeit narrow in places, but wide enough for a comfortable journey. There are vast rock walls on both sides of the river, with jagged limestone mountains towering above at almost 2,000 metres. The depth of the gorge is impressive and it can be about a 1,000m deep in places.
Only goats live here now
The most beautiful part of the trail is towards the Cain end, here the walls of the gorge almost converge. It feels like if you stretch your arms far enough you can touch the mountain wall on the other side of the Cares River.
The path is carved at the side of a mountain.
Brian is on the bridge, but can you also spot a girl wearing a bikini(on the tunnel)?
These caves have been carved into the mountain
There are caves, bridges, waterfalls, ruined huts, a water canal, a river dam and plenty of wild flora and fauna along the way. Just before reaching the Caín Dam, there is a tunnel-like stretch with large windows cut into the rock.
Bring a torch to go through these caves and tunnels, it is dark and there are large puddles.
We arrived in Caín quite tired, after the 12 km long walk and we were glad to have a bed for the night here at the local hostel. Staying overnight for us was all part of a great experience and well worth the expense.
We were glad to have a very comfortable bed here at this Albergue for the night.
Most people just have a meal and a rest in Caín village before walking back the same route of 12 km back to Poncebos. It is not a difficult walk, most people can easily accomplish it (unless you suffer from vertigo or particularly scared of heights) and hence the beauty of this hike. Maximum enjoyment for not a huge effort.
Tips for Hiking the Cares Gorge
- The linear, 12 km walk can be started from either the Poncebos end (like we did) or Cain end. Many do the trek from one end and back again in one steady, but long day, altogether it will be a 24 km walk if done in its entirety.
- If walking from the Poncebos end, there are hotels/campsites
Every year thousands of people walk many miles from all corners of Europe on a pilgrimage like no other, to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. The “Camino de Santiago” is possibly the world’s most famous pilgrimage and one that we have been wishing to walk for many years. This pilgrimage has existed for over one thousand years, along many different routes and all culminate at Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain.
The American film “The Way”, directed by Emilio Estevez catapulted the already famous pilgrimage into the limelight.
Wishing we were pilgrims, we sat for ages in front of the vast Plaza de Obradoiro, overlooking the stunning Santiago Cathedral, where a reliquary is believed to hold the remains of St James the Apostle. We sat watching with great interest and amusement the many pilgrims arriving at their final destination.They had walked the ancient steps, following the yellow arrow and the Scallop Shell signs significantly placed along the way pointing pilgrims towards Santiago.
Plaza de Obradoiro, overlooking the stunning Santiago Cathedral
Their faces showing a sense of achievement, of something very special that has been accomplished… they might not have held a Christian faith (not all pilgrims walking the “Camino” are Christians), but they nevertheless would have spent the last few weeks believing that whatever happens, the “Camino” would provide. Each with their questions, wishes or just driven by a challenge that had to be overcome.
There is a very unique atmosphere in this place, and the sound of a Galician bagpipe covers the area with a longing and magical sound. Pilgrims congregate here as they arrive heavily loaded with their backpacks, teary-eyed, meeting up with other fellow walkers, excitedly exchanging stories, hugging each other like long lost relatives.
The energy of this place is palpable.
We spotted many peregrinos around the city, carrying heavy backpacks. On the back of their backpacks the symbolic Scallop Shell dangling proudly. Apparently the significance of the Scallop Shell sign is that the ridges/grooves of the shell represent all the different “Camino” routes that can be walked or sometimes even cycled by the pilgrims across Europe.
This sign is seen in many places across Northern Spain, pointing the pilgrims towards Santiago de Compostela
On our first day of exploring we joined a free walking tour (a tip is expected at the end of the tour) with a great local guide giving us a brilliant introduction to the city and its history.
The huge Santiago Cathedral has been undergoing renovations for a few years now and although some of the altar pieces and art work was wrapped up or covered in building work dust, it was still amazing to visit. Inside the Cathedral was very quiet during our visit, and it was possible to take our time in silent contemplation of the special atmosphere. We stood gawping at the silver reliquary where the remains of St. James are reported to be resting. Inside a small dark passage there is a gleaming 13th century statue of St. James, and we climbed the stairs behind the altar to see the statue. Peregrinos usually like to kiss his mantle for good luck, we settled with giving it a hug.
Inside the Cathedral a silver reliquary is securely held behind locked iron bars, where the remains of St. James are reported to be resting.
It was also fascinating to visit the Cathedral’s Museum and treasury and discover more about the incredible 12th century carvings and work of Master Mateo. The Cathedral is in itself a masterpiece of architecture with a Baroque façade.
Amazing carvings at the Cathedral’s Museum and Treasure
Unfortunately the famous “Botafumeiro” ( the huge incense burning holder that is swung over head during some of the mass ceremonies) was out of action due to also being under renovation.
We got lost walking around the old town which has a medieval feel, with old stone buildings, pedestrianized streets, little alleyways, small squares with cafes and restaurants spilling their tables into the outdoors.
There are no shortage of great places to eat delicious Galician fare, so we tried a few. The network of narrow lanes near the Cathedral such as Rúa do Franco, Rúa da Raiña and Rúa do Vilar have many cafes, tapas bars and restaurants. Just walking up and down, checking out what is on offer can very interesting.
This tiny road has only room for one person at the time
We also enjoyed vising the food market: Mercado de Abastos which has a variety of local produce on offer.
We lucked out with the weather, the famous Galician rain stayed away during our three days stay and we enjoyed glorious sunshine and warm temperatures. It was magical to sit outdoors, enjoying coffee and cake at the square next to the Cathedral and marvel at the fabulous old buildings surrounding us.
We loved this outdoors café next to the Cathedral.
We also strolled along the main city park, Parque da Alameda where a bronze statue of the two Mary’s by sculptor César Lombera is a famous landmark. These two eccentric sisters where often seen at this very spot during the 1950’s and 60’s wearing bright colours and over the top make up, flirting with the young university students who would be coming out of classes at two o’clock in the afternoon for their lunch break. The statues get new clothes painted every so often, another quirky idea that makes this city so interesting.
The famous two Mary’s have just had new clothes painted.
There are great views of the Santiago Cathedral from Parque da Alameda, from where pilgrims entering Santiago de Compostela will be greeted with a glimpse of the famous Cathedral.
Views from Parque da Alameda
Santiago de Compostela is a city devoted to an incredible pilgrimage, but being here as non-pilgrims feels every bit as special and welcoming. Brian said it was his favourite city on the whole trip, he just loved the amazing old town and the buzz of the pilgrims reaching their destination after weeks and weeks of hard toil.
“I promise to be a pilgrim next time”
We do plan to return to Santiago de Compostela next year to visit it again, but our aim then will be to arrive on foot and see it like so many do as a welcoming destination after many days spent walking the “Camino”…we shall then became pilgrims at last.
Seville, the captivating capital of Andalusia will seduce you with its melancholic, gypsy guitar-strumming Flamenco singers, and it’s passionate people. Brimming with history, culture and stunning architecture, offering a mixture of styles such as Mudéjar, Renaissance and Gothic masterpieces.
A sunny, warm climate invites an outdoor lifestyle that is enjoyed by all in its beautiful plazas, green spaces, or along the riverbank promenade. We visited March/19 and found it to be a perfect time weather-wise since it can get VERY hot during the summer months. It was the busiest of all the cities we have visited so far on this trip, so I can’t imagine what it would be like in the high season. But don’t let that put you off, it is worth it.
We wandered through its vibrant streets accompanied by our walking tour guide, his passion for his birth city having us enthralled as we wandered from one landmark to another. Doing a walking tour on our very first day of exploring was a great choice and it set us up for the rest of the trip. The heart of the old city is where many of the main landmarks will be found, it is very pedestrian-friendly and fun to wander around.
The very walkable old town
Our guide took us through the maze-like streets of the old Jewish Quarter retracing Jewish history in Spain. During medieval times a wall was built to separate Jews from the rest of the city. It hides a dark history of persecution, deceit, and death when the entire Jewish community became persona non grata and many were killed with their synagogues being converted to churches. A stark contrast to today, when this area is quaint and a real pleasure to walk around or linger in the pretty little plazas and courtyards.
Our guided wanderings ended near the Royal Tobacco Factory where our guide explained that since the 1950’s this beautiful building has been the rectorate of the University of Seville. In fact, our guide himself had attended University here gaining a History degree.
We were very lucky to have such a great guide to ourselves; being a Monday morning there were not enough people to join the walking tour, so it was just us and him as our private guide. When it was over we tipped him well for his efforts and said our goodbyes, heading over to a place he recommended for our lunch. A very traditional, if a little rough around the edges place. We sat outside and ended up being serenaded by a drunk Flamenco singer who was sitting on a table near ours. It was hilarious and rather memorable.
Seville’s Plaza de España
After our meal we headed over to the Maria Luisa Park, the largest park in Seville where people were eating picnics, lying in the grass having a siesta or enjoying riding on some of those funny quadricycles that we often see in places like this. Eventually, we came across the stunning Plaza De España…not really a plaza but a large complex of buildings.
Built for the Ibero-American Exposition in 1929, these fabulous buildings are arranged in a semi-circle set against a man-made little canal. The sprawling compound actually houses some government offices, which is a little amusing considering how gorgeous this place is – I thought the home of Royalty would be a more appropriate use for it.
Plaza De España
Plaza De España
A water fountain in the middle of the semi-circle building complex comes into action for a few minutes every so often. There is also a man-made little canal where people enjoy rowing small boats.
Real Alcázar De Seville
We booked our tickets online the day before our visit, via the official website choosing an afternoon time slot for our visit. Even with a ticket you still have to queue for a short time with all the others that have also been given the same scheduled time slot.
Built by Castilian Christians for King Peter of Castile, it is stunning.
Patio De Las Doncellas “The Courtyard of the Maidens”
The iconic “Courtyard of the Maidens”
Intricate carvings
The Hall of Ambassadors has a stunning golden dome
This Royal Palace is a must for anyone visiting Seville. A UNESCO listed building since 1987, the palace showcases the best of Moorish heritage with stunning Mudéjar architecture. The upper levels of the Alcázar are still used by the royal family as their official residence in Seville.
Looking out over the beautiful gardens
Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance styles throughout the fabulous gardens
The gardens are a labyrinth of secret passages and courtyards, fragrant flowers, fruit trees and beautifully manicured gardens dotted with Renaissance statues. Water plays an important part in its many fountains and ponds.
Don’t miss the basement baths, or rather rainwater tanks, beneath the Patio del Crucero. These are called “Baths of Lady Maria de Padilha”, named after the mistress of Peter the Cruel.
“Baths of Lady Maria de Padilha”
We spent about 3 hours exploring the Palace and the gardens at leisure. Don’t expect to have it to yourself, it is extremely popular (with good reason). It actually surprised me at how busy it was even during the low season.
The Alcázar is free to visit on Mondays, although be prepared for huge crowds. We booked our tickets online the day before our visit via the official website.
Seville Cathedral and La Giralda Tower
Just opposite the Royal Palace, once our visit was over, we decided to also visit the Seville Cathedral and La Giralda Tower. Usually, another very popular place to visit with long queues. But there were no queues to contend with being already late afternoon, near closing time.
Seville Cathedral and Bell Tower
Built on the site of a large Mosque, the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede was completed in 1506. Lofty and huge, it is the largest Gothic church in the world. The tall minaret of the old Mosque was preserved and it still towers next to the Christian Cathedral. Now called La Giralda, it is the bell tower of Seville Cathedral, the Renaissance style top was a later addition by the Catholic church. The tower is 104.1 meters (342 feet) in height.
Views from the Bell Tower
We enjoyed walking up the bell tower, particularly because there are no winding, narrow staircases in this tower, like we usually find in such places. Here there are spacious ramps that lead to magnificent views over Seville. (We were told that when the tower was originally built by the Moors, they built ramps so that the muezzin could ride a donkey to the top to issue his five times daily call to prayer.)
The tomb of Christopher Columbus
Inside the Cathedral there are lots to see, including the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Although that is a controversial issue since there is still a great mystery surrounding his final resting place. It appears that his remains have traveled quite a few times from one location to another since his death. The Dominican Republic claims that Mr. Columbus remains are actually buried in Santo Domingo and so the dispute goes on. I guess being more than 500 years since his death, this is a mystery that won’t be easily resolved.
Flamenco Show
No visit to Seville would be complete without enjoying a Flamenco show. There are many to choose from, some more touristic than others. We opted for the free show at La Carboneria, as recommended by our walking tour guide.
We arrived early and managed to grab a seat very close to the stage, a Brazilian group sitting next to us. They were great fun. Later an Australian couple shared our table and the place was packed full.
The place felt very authentic and intimate
A very humble place with long tables and benches. Perhaps not the most comfortable of places to sit down for a show, but we thoroughly enjoyed it. The night was even more enjoyable due to us befriending a group of fun Brazilians who sat on the table next to us and a lovely Australian couple from Melbourne who sat opposite us on our table.
Known locally as a “tablao” these performances are acoustic and feel very intimate. We arrived early and got a seat very close to the stage. We could, in fact, see the musician’s expressions whilst belting out the raucous songs. The music is haunting and emotionally charged. The dance hypnotic and incredibly passionate, it was wonderful to be so close to the artists. They asked that no photos were taken during the show, which is fair enough. I would recommend La Carboneria for some very authentic Flamenco, but do eat your dinner before going to the venue. They serve some snacks there, but not a proper meal. The drinks are excellent and not expensive.
I have already chosen my Flamenco dress for next time
It was well past our bedtime when we headed home in a taxi. We were staying at the Puerto Gelves motorhome Aire (GPS location N37.34004 W6.02324), costing 15 Euros per night, with all facilities and EHU included. A really lovely and peaceful location within an easy 15 minutes bus ride into Seville.
We spent 3 days in Seville and we could have stayed a lot longer, there was lots more to see and do, but as always it is good to leave wanting more and having a good excuse to return.
Weird El Rocio and Doñana National Park.
From Seville we made our way to El Rocio, not far from the border with Portugal, where this town was our last stop in Spain. The weirdest place we have ever visited, El Rocio is not your typical town. The sandy streets have no road markings or signaling, the soft surface is more appropriate for horse-drawn carriages than for cars. There was a real wild west feel about this place.
We decided to stay for two nights to explore the town and most importantly to visit the Doñana National Park.
We stayed at a campsite on the edge of town and just as well since the roads were not very motorhome friendly…more appropriate for 4WD cars.
Sandy road into town
Horse drawn carriages are the normal here, although locals do use cars also.
El Rocio is very atmospheric at night
There are wooden hitching rails outside most buildings so people can tie up their horses. There was hardly anyone around when we first entered the town. We headed towards the church and the edge of the wetlands that surrounds the village. From there we walked along a boardwalk and spotted flamingos in the distance.
Flamingos at El Rocio wetlands
Sanctuario de Nuestra Señora de El Rocio.
This town takes center stage once a year for one of Spain’s biggest religious festivals. The annual pilgrimage and festivities bring about one million people into this small town which is usually only made up of one thousand inhabitants. It is hard to imagine such a dramatic difference.
The El Rocio Pilgrimage is on the second day of Pentecost in honour of the Virgin whose image was reported to have been found by a hunter in the fifteenth century.The pilgrims travel in groups known as brotherhoods or religious confraternities. Travelling on foot, on horseback or in horse-drawn carriages it is apparently quite a sight to behold.
But we are not here for the pilgrimage; the highlight of this area for us was to visit the Doñana National Park, a wetland characterized by marshes, sand flats, small streams, and a wild-life and bird sanctuary. We took the official guided tour, which the only way to see this area since no private cars are allowed to enter the reserve.
Our robust tour bus
We were given binoculars after boarding the large green tour bus. Our guide would watch out for the wildlife and point them out to all of us. We saw wild boar, red deer and lots of amazing birds…too many to remember all their names. but unfortunately, we did not see Iberian lynx.
We booked the wildlife tour via our Campsite at a cost of 30 Euros each, and we had to stay an extra day to be able to do it since places are limited. It is also possible to book online. The tour takes about 4 hours.
I would recommend a visit to this weird and wonderful town and certainly don’t miss the tour to Doñana National Park.
So it is “hasta la vista” to Spain…at least for now.
Córdoba was once upon a time considered the greatest city in western Europe. Today what brings in most of the punters is the extraordinary Great Mosque of Córdoba, known locally as the Mezquita-Cathedral, one of the oldest structures still standing from the times when Muslims ruled this region.
A building that has lived many different lives and transformations. Speculated to have been a temple to the Roman god Janus, it was then converted into a church by Visigoths during their occupation of Cordoba in 572. Later on the church gave way to a mosque, which was remodelled and extended a few times by the new Moorish rulers. Eventually it was converted to a Cathedral in 1236 following the Christian conquest, although most of the old Moorish style was kept.
The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, is the ecclesiastical name of this Catholic cathedral that exists inside the mosque. The building is recognised as one of the most accomplished examples of Moorish architecture.
There are rows and rows of colourful arches and double arches, intricate mosaics in dazzling colour combinations, and on further inspection it will also reveal compelling Christian frescoes on walls and ceilings. The marble columns hold the horseshoe arches made with red and white bricks. In the centre of the Mezquita sits the full size Catholic Cathedral.
In the prayer hall is the mihrab/prayer niche. Used in a mosque to identify the wall that faces Mecca (the birth place of Islam). Muslins make their daily prayers facing towards Mecca.
During the golden Islamic era the city was the capital of the Córdoba Emirate of Al-Andalus.
The complex history of this unique building is very intriguing. I am very sorry but I will not be delving much into this complex history here at all, since it is beyond my scope as a non-history buff. There is a lot of literature out there explaining it all in great detail and I invite you to try and get your head around this fascinating mix of styles and cultures.
I loved the Mosque-Cathedral and it was a place I longed to visit for ages. I looked around mesmerized. Brian on the other hand was a bit underwhelmed by it all, although he did perk up a bit, when we got to the huge Christian Cathedral area. Pondering on how the victorious built their own religious building right in the middle of that of the vanquished – a rub your face in it gesture on a massive scale ?… I guess you have to visit it yourselves and make your own mind about it.
Apparently the Muslin community has campaigned for the Roman Catholic Church to allow them to pray in the complex. However Spanish church authorities and the Vatican have not yet granted permission. A controversial issue that is not unique just to this religious building, or to Spain.
It is free to visit between 08:30 and 09:30 every day (except Sunday); we visited in the afternoon and we paid 10 Euros each.
The exquisite Mosque Cathedral of Córdoba. My photo taken with my mobile phone does not do it justice.
Walking across the Roman Bridge
Built across the Guadalquivir River, it was originally constructed in the first Century BC. Along the centuries it has been reconstructed a few times taking on board some Moorish influences. It was lovely to go for a stroll across it, enjoying the views back to the old town and further along the river.
The Roman Bridge straddling the Guadalquivir River. Mind-bogglingly old.
The Alcázar Of the Christian Monarchs
Don’t leave Córdoba without visiting the Alcázar. Built by the Christians in 1328, after they conquered Córdoba. The palace sits on top of Visigoth, Roman and Islamic Ruins. We really enjoyed visiting it and this time we were both in agreement as to how gorgeous this place is. Not far from the Great Mosque, it is also located in the historic centre of Córdoba.
Views from the tower
Magnificent gardens and courtyards
In Medieval times the site was occupied by a Visigoth fortress. Later on it was taken over by Moors until Christian forces took hold of Cordoba in 1236. The Alcázar was also used as one of the first permanent tribunals of the Spanish Inquisition and as headquarters during the war against the Nasrid Dynasty of Granada.
Apparently Christopher Columbus was entertained here by the King and Queen as he prepared to take his first voyage to the Americas…fancy that. I hadn’t realised he was actually Italian by birth, and had touted the funding of his expedition around various European monarchs unsuccessfully, before Queen Isabella agreed to bankroll him… boy was that a good investment!
Centuries later, Napoleon Bonaparte used it as a garrison for his troops in 1810.
Since the 1950’s it has finally acquired a more benign role as a Spanish National Monument.
Strolling the backstreets of Córdoba.
Like other great Spanish cities, Córdoba is a mixture of modern and historic. The charming old town has narrow streets, not car friendly at all, but designed to provide shade and a cool air running through it. A much needed feature since the summer temperatures here can be the hottest in all of Spain.
Charming narrow streets
The terraced white houses are tucked into every available space, many with a picturesque courtyard in the centre. The doors and windows are colourful, and often iron grills cover the windows. The white washed walls are covered in pretty flower pots.
The modern city has wider roads and avenues, a very different feel with the larger apartment buildings.
Córdoba’s cool courtyards
In Córdoba,” patios” are a serious business. Although other cities and towns around Spain also love these cool central courtyards, they are a very common feature of many houses here. There is even a competition each May when a fiercely competitive “patio-owners” compete for the trophy of best and most picturesque of all. These quaint outdoor living rooms are an oasis of calm and coolness decorated with lush green leaves, geraniums, roses and jasmine flowers.
At Calle San Basilio you can explore some of these lovely patios; buy a ticket there for about 5 Euros, which gives access to 5 patios privately owned by locals.
Exploring is hunger inducing business, so we enjoyed a meal sitting in one of these al-fresco, picturesque courtyards. The perfect place to refuel and to rest our weary feet.
Lovely meal here at this family-run little restaurant. The courtyard is outdoors, surrounded by white walls and hanging geranium plant pots.
We stayed very centrally, within walking distance of everything at a motorhome Aire (GPS N37.87424 W4.78783) provided by the town. Costing 18 Euros per 24 hours + 2 Euros for fresh water (a little bizarre water charge) there was no electric hook up. If using this motorhome site, I recommend parking at the far end. As far as possible from the main road, since it can be noisy.
If not visiting by motorhome, a stay in the old town would make for the perfect base from where you will be able to explore everything on foot.
Córdoba would make for a great weekend city break, and I would recommend at least two full days here to appreciate its many great sites. But perhaps don’t visit during the summer months when temperatures will likely be unbearable. We visited in March/19 and really enjoyed cooler temperatures, but very sunny and picturesque. Our stay could have been longer, since there was lots more to keep us here, but we had Seville on our sights and so we left happy enough that we did manage to explore what we came here to see.
Antequera – Bronze Age burial mounds, Spanish Baroque architecture, and a Moorish Castle. Nearby El Torcal – showcasing some of the most spectacular limestone scenery in Europe. This region was a must-stop on our Spanish motorhome road trip.
Strategically located, Antequera is also known as the “heart of Andalusia” due to its central location among other major Spanish tourist destinations such as Malaga, Granada, Seville and Cordoba. These great cities are all within easy reach for a day trip by car, bus or train. It was a no brainer for us, since we were already exploring this area.
The icon of Antequera is Peña de Los Enamorados “Lovers Rock”, 880 metres above sea level this mountain is also popularly known as “Montaña del Indio” because it resembles the profile of an American Indian. It can be spotted from various places all around this area.
Can you see the resemblance to an American Indian?
The mountain was named after a tale of forbidden love. According to the legend two young Moorish lovers from rival clans, threw themselves from the rock whilst being pursued by the girl’s father and his accomplices.
We stayed two nights at the free Aire in Antequera (GPS location N37.02132 W4.57180) located in the centre of town, it was perfect for enjoying its delights. Thank you Antequera!
There is lots to see here including the following:
A Moorish Castle sitting on the hill overlooking the city.
The Moors dominated this area from 716 AD and built the Castle/Fortress to protect themselves from the Spanish Catholic Army. The Alcazaba was finally taken by Ferdinand I in 1410 when he conquered Antequera.
Views from the Castle’s gardens
The Alcazaba is a very interesting place to visit, at a cost of just 8 Euros for us both it was definitely worth the money. We were given an audio guide which was very useful to listen to whilst exploring the Castle. A rich history and beautiful views.
Views from the Castle’s tower
Strategic place to build a Castle
From the top of the towers It was possible to see far into the surrounding landscape, the fertile farmland and mountains. The white town spreading over the landscape below with its many historic buildings dotted around.
Burial Mounds
Two Bronze Age burial mounds (barrows or dolmens) the Dólmen de Menga and the Dólmen de Viera are found here in Antequera. Dating back to the third millennium BCE, they are the largest such structures in Europe. The huge rock slabs guard the entrance of the burial chamber.
The Antequera Dólmens are a UNESCO world heritage site since 2016. The heritage site status also includes Peña de Los Enamorados and El Torcal Nature Reserve.
Dólmen de Menga
The burial mounds are free to visit, we visited the larger one called Dólmen de Menga, it was built with thirty-two megaliths, the largest weighing 180 tonnes, think how was that possible more than 3,000 years ago? When uncovered in the 19th Century, archaeologists found the skeletons of several hundred people buried inside.
After visiting the burial site, we made our way to the town centre for lunch… both starving with so much walking and exploring. We sat at an outdoors little plaza and basked in the sun whilst enjoying a tasty “menu del dia”, which consisted of a three course meal and a drink for 10 Euro each (Brian had a glass of wine with his meal). The quality of the “menu del dia” can be a bit hit and miss sometimes, but usually it is very good.
We really enjoyed Antequera, I would recommend to spend at least two days here to enjoy most of the cultural and historical sites.
Eerie El Torcal
No visit to this area would be complete without exploring this incredible Nature Reserve. We left Antequera early one morning and headed for the hills towards El Torcal Nature Reserve. A fabulous, but a little unnerving drive through narrow roads which got a little scarier when we found ourselves surrounded by fog and poor visibility.
There is a large car park by the visitors centre. We noticed that some motorhomes have stayed here overnight. We did not realise that it was allowed, it would have made a nice place for us to stay overnight.
We waited in the van and made ourselves a cup of tea hoping that the fog would lift. But since it did not budge we decided to take the plunge and follow the “Ruta Amarilla”, the yellow route which starts at the car park and takes about 2 hours to complete. although I don’t think we actually took that long. The route is well signposted with yellow marks and arrows. There is also an easier route called “Ruta Verde” the green route which takes 40 to 60 minutes to complete.
Follow the yellow signs
The karst formations here are amongst the most important in Europe. The whole park looked mysterious and eerie surrounded by the fog. We walked around mesmerized by the weird rock formations. It was also wonderful to see so many beautiful wild flowers, and strange trees covered in thick moss.
Eerie rock formations made even more mysterious by the fog
Foggy, but at least not raining… Yet.
Strange geology
The reserve is also home to a good population of Spanish Ibex, we spotted many among the strange rock formations. They were totally undisturbed by our presence. We had the path mostly to ourselves, with only the sound of birds and the company of Spanish Ibex along the way.
Spanish Ibex undisturbed by our presence
Here we saw a whole family with a little baby Ibex
Towards the end of our trekking it started raining quite heavily, and the rocky path became very slippery and hazardous. We donned our waterproofs and walked slowly, but steadily, back to the visitors centre, glad to be wearing sturdy walking shoes.
On arrival back at the centre, we felt relieved to be back in a dry and warm place. We sat at their restaurant and ordered a hearty soup with bread to warm us up.
As we were leaving there were more people arriving, some large buses bringing a group of noisy school children. The fog and rain stopped. Soon enough the sun was making an appearance as we drove downhill through another fabulous scenic road on our way to the next destination.
Once called the most dangerous walkway in Europe, Caminito del Rey is now one of the most popular attractions in the Malaga area of Spain. Pinned to the side of a steep cliff, at about 105 metres/300 feet above the roaring river below, it stretches along a narrow gorge. A walkway like no other and one of the best hikes in Spain.
Construction of the precarious walkway started in 1901 and finished in 1905. Originally built to provide easy access for the workers of two hydroelectric power plants called Chorro Falls and Gaitanejo Falls. After construction of the walkway workers could easily cross from one power plant to the other transporting material and ensuring good maintenance of both sites.
It became known as Caminito Del Rey (King’s Little Pathway) after King Alfonso XIII crossed it in 1921 for the inauguration of the Conde Del Guadalhorce Dam.
The concrete and steel rails walkway fell into disrepair over the years, when much of the concrete path crumbled away. But in spite of its bad state, it continued to be used by rock climbers and thrill seeking adrenaline junkies for many years… on occasions costing them their lives.
The restauration project took about 4 years to complete and it was finally opened to the public in March 2015. It has fast become one of the best attractions in this area. Many of the original features, from over one hundred years ago can still be seen as you walk through the new and safer wood walkway.
It is now a safer and easier walkway that might not appeal to the hard core thrill seekers. But It certainly still delivers plenty of excitement, drama and incredible scenic beauty.
See the crumbling old path below the new one
Only birds are meant to get this kind of view
Incredible landscapes all around
At the start the river roars just under your feet
The walkway winds its way along the cliff
See here parts of the old path underneath the new one
Stunning rocky landscape
Catching the first glimpse of the gorge takes your breath away. Pinned by the side of a sheer cliff, the wooden walkway is firmly secured and you feel safely enclosed by the metal rails. We walked along mesmerized by the sheer beauty of the arid, rocky landscape. We could hear the roar of the river below gushing through the narrow valley.
Narrow paths snake around a cliff face, if looking up you can see large birds catching the thermals and soaring upwards. Towards the end of the walk there is a glass bottom platform that was quite thrilling to stand on.
This footbridge would feel very scary on a windy day
Fabulous views from here
A footbridge marks the end of the walkway, sadly it was all over. Although we still had to walk a fair bit more, to get to El Chorro. From here a bus runs about every 15 minutes, we paid 1.55 Euros to the driver as we boarded it. The bus took us back to where we started from, near Ardales. The full walk takes about 2 to 3 hours depending on your speed. Take your time to enjoy the beauty of these landscapes and no doubt you will be stopping lots to take photos along the way…we certainly did.
Map of Caminito Del Rey
We got off the bus at the Kiosk Restaurant and had our lunch there overlooking a very pretty lake.
How to get last minute tickets
Getting last minute tickets can be tricky, but read on to find out how we did it.
At first we had a good look at the official Caminito del Rey website, a rather unhelpful site. We soon realised that there were no tickets available for our dates or even for the next 3 months. Therefore we decided to look for other options, our research led us to discover the following:
Only a small percentage of tickets are sold via the official website, most tickets are sold to local business such as hotels and tour companies. If staying in one of the local hotels they can arrange tickets for you. Contact local hotels directly for that.
There are about 50 tickets that are sold on the day, at the ticket control point in the North entrance to the Caminito del Rey. All you need to do is be there early and be one of the lucky first 50 people to buy a ticket on the day.
We arrived at the entrance point at 8:15 am, to find there were already about 10 to 15 people queuing for a ticket. Many more soon joined behind us. When the ticket office opened at 9:30 am we bought our tickets and walked the walk…it was fabulous! Best 10 Euros ever spent.
Where is the start of the walkway?
The walkway is linear, it goes in one direction only. It starts at the North entrance – Ardales and finishes at the South entrance – El Chorro, Alora. There is a shuttle bus transferring people from one site to the other, at a cost of 1.55 Euro (March/2019) paid directly to the bus driver.
How to get to the North entrance, where the Caminito starts?
You can’t access the entrance by car, so you have to walk from the main road. There are two walking access points from the main road to the North entrance. Both starting from El Kiosko Restaurant.
Access one – is the longer route- Gaitanejo Way a 2.7 Km route that starts at a tunnel next to El Kiosko Restaurant. We did not choose this access route.
Can you see the tunnel? From this tunnel next to the restaurant is a 2.7 km walk
Access two– Is a shorter route of 1.5 Km – This route starts at a pedestrian tunnel, which is about 200 m upwards from El Kiosko Restaurant on the left side of the road. That was the route we chose, it took us about 20 minutes to walk to the North Entrance, the official starting point for Caminito del Rey, from the tunnel entrance.
Through this tunnel is a 1.5 km walk to the North entrance.
After crossing the tunnel there is a good surface road ahead
Where do I park if I travel there by car or Motorhome?
There is limited spaces on the road in front of El Kiosko Restaurant, there are more spaces further up by the side of the road, but spaces are limited, make sure to arrive early. There is also a car park upwards from El Kiosko Restaurant (I noticed they charge 2 Euro to park there). We travelled with our motorhome and stayed overnight at the Camping Parque Ardales, just 15 minutes walking distance from Access two. See GPS coordinates below.
What happens when you arrive at the Caminito North entrance?
The ticket office opens at about 9:30 am. Two queues are formed, one for the people who already bought a ticket and another for people who don’t have a ticket. From our experience if you don’t have a ticket, it is better to arrive there and start queuing as early as possible.
Just a small queue at the entrance when we arrived at 8:15 on a Thursday morning in March/19.
There are only 50 tickets available on the day. We managed to arrive there at 8:15 am, there were about 10 to 15 people in front of us. The ticket costs 10 Euro per person, there are guided walks for 18 Euros per person, we prefer doing our own thing, so we decided against having a guide. In fact there is no need for a guide, the path is linear, no risk of getting lost at all.
Don’t loose your place on the queue once there. There are toilets facilities here also.
The walks are scheduled for 50 people to walk the trail every 30 minutes, and there are over 1,000 visitors per day. The trail does not feel crowded since people are well spread out. I have heard of people getting last minute tickets even later on in the day, if there are not enough people (less than 50 who turn up with tickets).
You are given a helmet to wear and a brief safety talk by one of the rangers. Make sure to wear good walking shoes, take sun cream protection, water and snacks with you. Children under 8 years old are not allowed. If you are very scared of heights this might not be for you.
Where to stay to do the Caminito Del Rey?
Many people choose to come here on a day trip from Malaga, which is very doable by train, car or bus. But staying overnight would make it for a more relaxing trip. There are all types of accommodation at nearby Ardales.
If not travelling by motorhome or with a tent, it is still possible to stay where we stayed, which was only a 15 minutes walking distance from the shorter 1.5 km route into the North entrance to Caminito. Our very friendly campsite had some nice looking apartments that they rent out (this is not a sponsored post by the way).
Camping Parque Ardales – GPS coordinates N36.92113 W4.80372
If you love nature and want something a little unusual to do when visiting Malaga, I would really recommend this incredible place. It is such a thrill to walk through a staggeringly beautiful gorge thinking people were never meant to see this!
Leaving coastal Spain behind, we drove inland towards the soaring hills of the Sierra Nevada. In our quest to find Cave Houses and Royal Palaces the uphill drive took us through some really beautiful Spanish landscapes. Mile upon mile of olive trees, sprouting from the dry and arid land. These olive trees can produce some of the best olive oil in the world, making Spain the world’s leading olive oil producer and exporter.
Panoramic views of the Tabernas Desert (one of Spain’s semi-deserts) were all around us. We even spotted a Spaghetti Western film set in the distance. These barren landscapes have been in the movie industry for many years, although now many of the film sets have been turned into “theme parks”, such as the “Oasis Mini Hollywood” we saw in the distance.
As we climbed higher the Sierra Nevada came into view. Arriving in Guadix we parked in the town centre’s free Aire for the night (GPS location N37.30395 W3.133339).
Guadix
Little white chimneys poking out of green hills, small doors leading into a hobbit-like house dug inside rusty coloured rock formations. We felt like being part of a film scene from the Flintstones. Known as the troglodytes, locals have been living in these caves for hundreds of years.
Cave Houses of Guadix
Curiosity leads us towards the “The Cave Interpretation Centre” to find out more about these Stone Age homes. Our guide, a very enthusiastic local lady brought the whole set alive for us. Being the first to arrive, she gave us her full attention. She gave Brian the huge key to open the cave house door and followed us into the cave’s front room. As we stepped inside, the white walls and simple furniture were a nice welcome. It was not as dark as we thought it would be.
Cave House living room, in the wall pictures of former residents
Bedroom
kitchen
She told us many stories about the people who lived here once upon a time and also about this unusual town where she and her family have lived all their lives. She lit a lamp fuelled by olive oil as we moved from the lighter living room into the darker areas such as the bedroom, kitchen and the room where the family animals used to be kept.
Guadix is home to the largest concentration of cave homes in Europe. Many have now became restaurants, or guest houses. Our guide tells us that a British couple has turned their cave house into an Airbnb rental. There are about 2,000 underground dwellings here. The town has also been chosen as a film location a few times. We enjoyed our time here and we would recommend it as a must stop to anyone who wants a taste of something a bit different.
Granada
Continuing our journey inland, just a 50 minutes drive down the road from where we stayed overnight in Guadix, we arrive in the city of Granada.
People flock here every day to visit the world famous Alhambra, which occupies a small plateau on the South East of the city, framed by the gorgeous white snow capped hills of the Sierra Nevada. It is a sight to behold.
These fabulous views of the Alhambra are free for all to enjoy
So how horrified will you be when I tell you that we arrived here without having booked tickets to visit the Alhambra? So much for flexibility and a lifestyle of not booking much ahead, we found ourselves wanting and not having.
Tickets for the Alhambra have to be booked months in advance…be warned. There is a small chance of getting last minute tickets, but requires luck and patience. We had both, but still got no tickets. We came tantalizingly close to get tickets at a 4 am attempt, but a faster buyer pressed the buying on line key faster than us.
Although the gorgeous Alhambra’s Palaces and formal gardens can only be accessed with the elusive tickets, did you know that you can still visit much of the Alhambra even without tickets? In fact there are lots of free things to see there as we soon found out.
Views from Carmen de Los Martires Gardens
Charles V Palace courtyard
The central courtyard of the Charles V palace, the Fine Arts Museum, many of the charming streets and courtyards with views out to the walls and towers surrounding Alhambra, the nearby Carmen de Los Martires Gardens etc.
We also loved walking down from Alhambra via the steep narrow street called “Cuesta del Rey Chico” towards “Paseo de Los Tristes” (Promenade of the Sad) next to the River Darro. We sat for a lunch of tapas in one of the restaurants with great views of the Alhambra.
Make sure to walk around Carrera Del Darro
It is a gorgeous area, I recommend spending sometime here wandering down Carrera Del Darro, visiting the Arab Baths of El Bañuelo, the well Preserved 11th Century Arabic Baths which are free to visit. There is plenty to see in this area.
Arabic Baths (with beautiful vaulted ceilings to stare at!)
Afterwards make your way up to Mirador San Nicolás, the most famous viewpoint in Granada. Apparently ever since the ex-US President Bill Clinton visited in 1997 and said: “this place has the most beautiful sunset in the world”, San Nicolás Mirador has become a must-see place.
Views of the Alhambra from San Nicolás Mirador
It certainly has the most gorgeous views of the Alhambra, set against the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. It is a little bit of an effort to get up there, but totally worth it. We adored it.
We loved Granada despite our lack of proper planning, not having tickets to visit the Alhambra’s opulent Nasrid Palaces with its Moorish-style courtyards and Royal quarters. But… it gives us a very good excuse to visit again in the future.
There are of course lots more to do and see in this beautiful Andalusian city besides visiting the Alhambra… we loved wandering around the historic centre gawping at the beautiful architecture and getting lost in the labyrinth of tiny old lanes and cobbled streets, filled with the scent of cooking spices and flowers.
Granada streets smell of delicious cooking spices
If you find yourself in Granada, like us without tickets to see Alhambra’s Nasrid Palaces, try the following options:
Some times a ticket can be purchased on the day, if there has been a cancelation…it does happen, so do go and ask at the ticket office at the Alhambra.
Tickets that have been cancelled for the following day go online everyday after midnight, so do try going into the official booking site to try your luck.
Sometimes tickets can be found at the “Corral del Carbón” which is a very interesting building in itself, located in the centre of Granada. It was constructed in the early 14th century and was used as a type of warehouse for merchandise. Inside you will also find a tourist information centre, where tickets for the Alhambra can be bought.
We visited Granada by motorhome staying at our most expensive site to date, at Camping and Hotel Sierra Nevada (GPS position N37.19688 W3.61371) costing us 30 Euro per night. Great site and fantastic location within walking distance of the historic centre.
Granada would make for a fantastic long weekend city break. I would recommend at least two full days in this city, more if possible. and don’t forget to book your tickets for the Alhambra a few months before your visit!
=&0=& Not too difficult to see why, since this splendid Mediterranean coast has the most perfect glowing sunlight, blue skies, warm weather and a fabulous coastline stretching along miles of white sandy beaches, and rugged rocky outcrops.. Often a victim to its own splendour, it gets thousands of tourists coming here to enjoy its treasures. But we are glad to be here in the shoulder season to experience it all with very little competition, and as luck would have it, we also got perfect sunshine and warm temperatures at the tail end of Winter.
Continuing our road trip following along the Mediterranean Coast, we left Valencia bound South towards Dénia situated just over an hour down the road, and it did not take us long to find Camping Los Pinos, our home for 4 nights.
Dénia
Have you ever heard of this place? Neither had we, until now…
Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea along the Costa Blanca and the impressive Montgó Massif and Mount Pego, Dénia has escaped the massive development of some other Spanish coastal towns. No shoulder to shouder high rise apartment blocks here, just a gorgeous 4 km promenade that takes you along the craggy coast line.
There is a stylish Marina with some impressive yachts moored in it, dotted with relaxing restaurants the Marina is also a ferry hub for the Balearic Islands. Behind the ferry terminal it is possible to walk along the breakwater wall and admire the views looking out to sea, or of towards Dénia Castle perched atop a hillside.
Dénia’s craggy coast line, perfect for walking, cycling and running along..
We spent our days cycling its great, flat, easy, cycling lanes, walking along the promenade, and eating at charming places that served delicious local Spanish food. A restaurant perched at the side of the rocky shoreline offered us a meal with a view of little fishing boats chugging along or the more elegant sailing boats passing by being propelled forward by the salty Mediterranean breeze.
Loving this sea view…and the freshly squeezed orange juice here is the sweetest I have ever had
During our four day stay we managed to do a couple of runs along the sea front. Although regrettably being too lazy we did not try to walk any of many treks that are on offer on this area, including climbing the Montgó Massif or try any of the very scenic, but more challenging, uphill cycling routes.
Feeling a bit more energetic one day we cycled into town and then climbed up to Dénia Castle to get a birds eye view of the town and Marina. Located in the heart of the city, its crumbling walls depicting 2,000 years of history.
Views of the Marina from the Dénia Castle
Travelling here by motorhome we stayed 4 nights at Camping Los Pinos (GPS N38.82936 E0.14689) at 15 Euros per night, it was perfectly located at the southern end of town, amongst pine trees and a stone’s throw from the craggy sea front. A very friendly, family run place, our motorhome neighbours were French, Dutch, Germans and British. It is a very popular site, so I would recommend booking ahead to guarantee a place. (We got the very last plot the day we arrived; vans arriving just minutes later had to turn around and try elsewhere… Eeek!)
Cartagena
Inhabited for over two millennia, Cartagena is situated in the South- East of Spain by the shores of the warm Mediterranean sea. Its Naval Port has been one of the most important in the Western Mediterranean. It is now a major cruise ship destination, with thankfully none visiting during our day of exploring.
A blend of civilizations such as Phoenician, Roman, Byzantine and Moorish have left their mark in this city with a number of sights such as the Roman Amphitheatre and other recently discovered Archaeological sights. Many of its oldest monuments date from the Roman Empire.
The strategic harbour coupled with a large mining industry had this city flourishing during past empires, bringing wealth and a unique artistic heritage.
Cartagena is quite a large city, very spread out, but most of the main historic sites are easy to find and within walking distance from each other. A must visit for history buffs or just anyone who enjoys beautiful architecture, good food and a lively city environment.
We stayed at a very friendly Aire (GPS position N37.65361 W1.00333) costing 12 Euro per night, in the outskirts of the city (we did not fancy driving through the busy city streets), from where it was a 20 minutes bus ride into the Historic centre. Staying for just two nights we did most of our exploring in one full day.
The Roman Theatre
One of the main landmarks of the city is the Roman Theatre of Carthago Nova which has recently been restored. It is the second largest of the Iberian Peninsula (after the one in Mérida) and it was the main reason for our visit; it did not disappoint. The Theatre Museum was very interesting, over different floors you are taken via escalators to explore the different levels and displays found during the excavations. It culminates with the entrance into the Roman Amphitheatre, built to entertain 7,000 spectators.
Roman Theatre of Carthago Nova
At the entrance we got a combined ticket to see the Roman Theatre, the Roman Forum District and the Concepcion Castle + Panoramic Lift.
The District of the Roman Forum – Molinete
Situated not far from the Roman Theatre, it took us a while to find,since its entrance was not obvious to us, in fact we walked right past it without realising.
Opened to the public in 2012, the fascinating thermal baths and temple complex, from first century AD, contains the ruins of a succession of chambers such as cold and warm rooms where it is possible to see how their advanced heating system worked. Brian loved this place, especially the walls which still had the Roman painting on them, trying to imagine the person putting on the brush strokes thousands of years ago.
The Castillo de la Conception
We boarded the Panoramic lift that took us 45 meters up into the hill where the Castle has been standing for centuries as a strategic and defensive fortification watching over the city.
Panoramic lift is the perfect way to reach the castle
The Interpretation Centre at the top does a good job at taking its visitors on a journey back to the Middle ages. The views from the castle are fabulous, it is possible to see the many historic sites from above and get a good feel and perspective over Cartagena.
We really enjoyed our stay, though we did not fall in love with Cartagena as much as some of our previous destinations; but I would certainly recommend it for any road trip itinerary to the South of Spain.
Cabo de Gata
The road from Cartagena to Cabo de Gata was rather interesting – or shall I say, bizarre? Miles upon miles of white plastic tunnels cover a huge area of this dry but now fertile land. Looking on Google maps you can clearly see the roofs of tens of thousands of closely packed plastic greenhouses. These polytunnels are used to grow crops in an otherwise arid and dry land, and they have turned this corner of Spain into a Mecca for growing food. Love or hate them, they are feeding Europe’s ever increasing need for year-round fruit and vegetables.
When looking on Google maps we could very clearly spot the boundary between the sea of white polytunnels and the protected National Park of Cabo de Gata area.
Situated on the Southeast coast of Spain, this wild and isolated landscape has some of Europe’s oldest geological features with a true hot desert climate.
We stayed off grid for the first time on this trip, managing to park our home on wheels right by the waterfront. Staying for just one night it was a very peaceful location by a tiny fishing village that looked abandoned. Enjoying a beautiful sunset we just relaxed into our front row seat to one of natures greatest spectacles.
Next morning before leaving Cabo de Gata we drove the winding cliff top road to the light house and the Arrecife de las Sirenas. The road was very narrow in places and I had my eyes closed for most of the way, hoping there were no cars or buses coming from the opposite direction since there would be no room for two vehicles on that cliff-top road.
It is a very pretty area with its offshore tiny volcanic rocky islands sticking out and the light house on the top of the cliff. Whilst exploring around here we met a Dutch couple who were walking along the coast, staying in little guest houses for a two week break. We felt very lucky to be enjoying this lifestyle without the constraints of a short holiday break.
Arrecife de las Sirenas,
Cabo de Gata National Park is characterized by lava flows, volcanic rock formations, domes and calderas. There are many hidden coves and white sandy beaches. The National Park is protected by UNESCO.
So the Spanish Costas are not just about the concrete jungles of some of its better known resorts, there are still many unspoiled places, charming little fishing villages, small towns, historic cities to discover along its shore line.